Table of Contents

CHAPTER Vo

CHAPTER XL

CHAPTER XI I L

Page 1 of 182

DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

THE LI FE OF

V

DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE

By THOMAS HUGHES

Aut hor of " TOM BROWN' S SCHOOL DAYS, " " TOM

BROWN AT OXFORD, " " LI FE OF ALFRED THE

GREAT, " et c. , et c. n< v< \ C >< >«

WI TH AN I NTRODUCTI ON

By G. mer cer ADAM

A. L. BURT COMPANY, ^ ^ J'

^ ^ ^ PUBLI SHERS, NEW YORK

Copyr i ght , 1903,

By E. a. BRAI NERD,

1 CONTENTS

CHAPTER I .

PAGE

Boyhood Days and Eabl y Li f e 1

GHAPTER I I .

St abt i n Af bi ca— Kueuman 17

CHAPTER I I I .

Page 2 of 182

KoLOBENG — Lake Ngami — The Zambesi 37

CHAPTER I V.

Lnnr ANTi and t he Makol ol o 65

GHAPTER V.

Li NYANTI TO LOANDA 83

CHAPTER VI .

ACBOSS AFEI CA — LOANDA TO Qui LEMANE. . . e 99

CHAPTER VI I .

Home 124

i i i

i v CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI I I .

PAGE.

The Zambesi Expedi t i on — To Li nyant i and Back 135

CHAPTER I X.

The Uni ver si t i es Mi ssi on 157

CHAPTER X.

Recal l — ^ Voyage t o I ndi a 167

CHAPTER XI .

Second Vi si t Home t . . . 178

CHAPTER XI I .

Lakes Moeeo, Banqweol o, and Tanganyi ka. . . . 186

CHAPTER XI I I .

St anl ey 218

CHAPTER XI V.

To Unyanyembe wi t h St anl ey 233

CHAPTER XV.

Wai t i ng at Unyanyembe 248

CONTENTS. ▼

CHAPTER XVI .

FAQE.

The Last Advance — Deat h 263

GHAPTER XVI I .

Concl usi on ' 283

Page 3 of 182

Appendi x • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . • • . «• 305

I NTRODUCTORY NOTE.

Af r i can devel opment has made gr eat st r i des

si nce t he pat het i c, l onel y deat h of t he ^ i mmor t al

Li vi ngst one, i n t he l i t t l e hut at I l al a, near Lake

Bangweol a, i n t he ear l y summer of 1873. Much,

never t hel ess, i s due t o t he i nt r epi d mi ssi onar y t r av -

el l er f or hi s l ong and unwear i ed l abor s i n Cent r al

Af r i ca and hi s year s of pat i ent exi l e, not onl y i n

car r yi ng t he Cr oss i nt o t he hear t of Af r i ca and i n

seeki ng t o heal " t he open sor e of t he wor l d " i n

connect i on wi t h t he sl ave t r ade, but i n pur sui ng so

i ndomi t abl y hi s geogr aphi cal di scover i es i n t he r egi on,

ami d per i l s, f at i gues, and pr i vat i ons and t he pr os -

t r at i ng wear i ness of Af r i can f ever s. Asi de f r om hi s

mi ssi onar y l abor s, commer ce and ci vi l i zat i on owe

hi m much f or f i r st gr appl i ng successf ul l y wi t h t he

geogr aphi cal pr obl ems of t he wat er shed of Cent r al

Af r i ca and t he sour ces of t he Ni l e, and openi ng up

t o human ken wel l ni gh a mi l l i on squar e mi l es of

l and and l ake r egi on i n t he dept hs of t he once Dar k

Cont i nent . To- day i f we know mor e cl ear l y about

t he gr eat mi d- Af r i can Lakes and t hei r wat er shed,

and i ndeed about t he whol e vast r egi on l yi ng be-

t ween t he Zambesi nor t hwar d even beyond Uganda

and t he Al ber t Nyanza, i t i s t o t he ear l y mi nut e

V

Vi I NTRODt JCTORY NOTE.

r esear ches of Li vi ngst one and hi s t oi l f ul car eer as an

expl or er , suppl ement ed by t he i nvest i gat i ons on t he

spot of St anl ey, hi s succor er at Uj i j i i n 1872, when

t he l onel y ol d man was l ost t o t he ken of whi t e

men, an i nt er est i ng account of whi ch we have i n

t he pr esent vol ume f r om t he appr eci at i ve pen of

Judge Hughes. The st or y t he del i ght f ul aut hor of

" Toui Br own' s School Days " gi ves us of Li vi ng-

st one i s f asci nat i ng i n i t s nar r at i on, as i t i s capt i vat -

i ng i n i t s admi r abl e r ecor d of t he chi ef i nci dent s i n

t he dear ol d mi ssi onar y' s l i f e of devot i on and sel f -

sacr i f i ce i n hi s successi ve vi si t s t o and pr ol onged wor k

i n Cent r al Af r i ca. Wi t h much l ove f or hi s subj ect

and t he hear t i est sympat hy wi t h t he man and hi s

car eer , Mr . Hughes qui et l y but t el l i ngl y r el at es t he

whol e st or y of Li vi ngst one' s l i f e and wor k, and gi ves

many char mi ng gl i mpses of t he mi ssi onar y and hi s

char act er and t he qual i t i es whi ch have won f or hi m

f ame and endear ed hi m t o t he wor l d and hi s t i me.

Nor coul d t her e wel l be a mor e at t r act i ve or i nspi r -

i ng t heme t han t hat of t he l ong- t i me and f ai t hf ul

wor ker i n t he dr ear y wast es of an al most unknown

Cont i nent , spendi ng and bei ng spent i n t he ser vi ce

of hi s t eacher , and doi ng much f or ci vi l i zat i on and

Page 4 of 182

t he openi ng up of t he count r y by a l i f e of unceasi ng

t oi l and unf l aggi ng ener gy unt i l he f el l exhaust ed at

hi s post , commi t t i ng hi msel f and hi s wor k t o t he

Lor d. Her e i s nar r at ed t he ent i r e st or y of hi s var i ed

t r avel s, and hi s humane wor k among t he nat i ves, wi t h

al l t he l uci dl y pr esent ed r ecor d of hi s di scover i es and

expl or at i ons t hat won f o^ hi m t he pl audi t s of

I NTRODUCTORY NOTE. vi i

sci ent i st s and t he honor s and ot her gr at i f yi ng r ecog-

ni t i ons of uni ver si t i es, i mpor t ant publ i c bodi es, and

geogr aphi cal soci et i es. Judge Hughes t el l s t he

st or y t o i t s ent hr al l i ng cl ose, wi t h t he deat h of t he

nobl e ol d man i n hi s l onel y hut i n Af r i ca, and t he

br i ngi ng, by f ai t hf ul at t endant s, of hi s r emai ns t o

t he coast , f or t r anspor t at i on t o Engl and and a t omb

i n West mi nst er Abbey. The bi ogr apher el uci dat es

t he st or y by t he i nser t i on t hr oughout t he t ext of

many expl anat or y not es and ot her t hought f ul , wel l -

' j nf or med comment s.

G. Mer cer Adam.

Then l et us pr ay t hat come i t may—

As come i t wi l l f or a' t hat —

When man t o man, t he war l d o' er ,

Shal l br ot her s be f or a' t hat . "

— BuRNa

THE

LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE

CHAPTER I .

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE.

1813- 40.

" My own i ncl i nat i on woul d l ead me t o say as l i t t l e

as possi bl e about mysel f . " Wi t h t hese wor ds t he

gr eat est expl or er of moder n t i mes begi ns t hat ac-

count of hi s mi ssi onar y j our neys and r esear ches i n

Sout h Af r i ca whi ch el ect r i f i ed Engl and. The eager

desi r e of hi s count r ymen t o know al l t hey coul d

about hi msel f , i nduced hi m t o modi f y hi s own i n-

cl i nat i on so f ar as t o devot e si x pages of hi s f amous

book t o t he hi st or y of hi s f ami l y, and of t he ear l y

year s of hi s own l i f e up t o t he t i me of hi s sai l i ng f or

t he Cape at t he age of t went y- t hr ee. Thi s r et i cence

i s as char act er i st i c of t he man as ar e t he f ew f act s he

does di scl ose. For emost of t hese st ands : " My

gr eat - gr andf at her f el l at t he bat t l e of Cul l oden,

Page 5 of 182

f i ght i ng f or t he ol d l i ne of ki ngs, and my gr and-

2 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

f at her was a smal l f ar mer i n Ul va, wher e my f at her

was bor n. " Next comes: " The onl y poi nt of t he

f ami l y t r adi t i on I f eel pr oud of i s t hi s — one of t hese

poor i sl ander s, when he was on hi s deat hbed, cal l ed

hi s chi l dr en r ound hi m and sai d, * I have sear ched

di l i gent l y t hr ough al l t he t r adi t i ons of our f ami l y,

and I never coul d f i nd t hat t her e was a di shonest

man amongst our f or ef at her s. I f , t her ef or e, any of

you shoul d t ake t o di shonest ways, i t wi l l not be

because i t r uns i n our bl ood. I l eave t hi s pr ecept

wi t h you. Be honest . ' "

Si nce t he days of Jonadab, t he son of Rechab, i t

woul d be har d t o f i nd a mor e st r i ki ng exampl e of

f ai t hf ul ness t o t he ' ' f ami l y mot t o" t han Davi d' s l i f e

f ur ni shes. A mor e per f ect exampl e of a downr i ght

si mpl y honest l i f e, whet her i n cont act wi t h queens

or sl ave- boys, one may saf el y say, i s not on r ecor d on

our pl anet . Happi l y, i n t hi s i nst ance, i t i s not di f f i -

cul t t o suppl ement t he meagr e out l i ne sket ched by

t he man hi msel f , f r om hi s own l et t er s, and t he r emi -

ni scences of pl aymat es and school - f el l ows, *

* " Mot her t ol d me st or i es of her yout h : t hey seem t o come

back t o her i n her ei ght y- second year ver y vi vi dl y. Her

gr andf at her , Gavi n Hunt er , coul d wr i t e, whi l e most common

peopl e wer e i gnor ant of t he ar t . A poor woman got hi m t o

wr i t e a pet i t i on t o t he mi ni st er of Shot t s par i sh t o augment

her mont hl y al l owance of si xpence, as she coul d not l i ve on i t .

He was t aken t o Hami l t on j ai l f or t hi s, and havi ng a wi f e

and t hr ee chi l dr en at home, who wi t hout hi m woul d cer t ai nl y

st ar ve, he t hought of Davi d' s f ei gni ng madness bef or e t he

Phi l i st i nes, and besl abber ed hi s bear d wi t h sal i va. Al l who

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY UFE. 3

The son of t he Cul l oden sol di er , Davi d' s gr and-

f at her , f i ndi ng t he smal l f ar m i n Ul va i nsuf f i ci ent

f or t he suppor t of hi s l ar ge f ami l y, cr ossed i nt o

Lanar k i n 1792, and obt ai ned a posi t i on of t r ust i n

t he mi l l s of H. Mont ei t h & Co. , at Bl ant yr e, on t he

Cl yde, above Gl asgow. The Fr ench war s dr ew

away al l t he sons but Nei l i nt o t he ar my or navy.

Nei l , af t er ser vi ng an appr ent i ceshi p t o Davi d

Hunt er , t ai l or , and mar r yi ng hi s mast er ' s daught er ,

Agnes, i n 18 10, made a smal l busi ness f or hi msel f

as a t r avel l i ng t ea- mer chant .

Davi d Hunt er was a gr eat r eader , especi al l y of

r el i gi ous books, of whi ch he had a smal l l i br ar y,

amongst t hem t he wor ks of t he Rev. J. Campbel l ,

Sout h Af r i can mi ssi onar y, " Tr avel s Among t he

Hot t ent ot s, " et c. These t ook a st r ong hol d on hi s

son- i n- l aw Nei l Li vi ngst one, and i n t ur n on hi s

wer e f ound gui l t y wer e sent t o t he ar my i n Amer i ca, or t he

Page 6 of 182

pl ant at i ons. A ser geant had compassi on on hi m, and sai d,

' Tel l me, gudeman, i f you ar e r eal l y out of your mi nd. I ' l l

bef r i end you. ' He conf essed t hat he onl y f ei gned i nsani t y,

because he had a wi f e and t hr ee bai r ns at home who woul d

st ar ve i f he wer e sent t o t he ar my. * Di nna say onyt hi ng

mai r t o ony body, ' sai d t he ki nd- hear t ed ser geant . He t hen

sai d t o t he commandi ng of f i cer , ' They have gi ven us a man

cl ean out of hi s mi nd: I can do not hi ng wi t h t he l i ke o'

hi m. ' The of f i cer went t o hi m and gave hi m t hr ee shi l l i ngs,

sayi ng, ' Tak' t hat , gudeman, and gang awa' hame t o your

wi f e and weans. ' ' Ay, ' sai d mot her , ' mony a pr ayer went up

f or t hat ser geant , f or my gr andf at her was an unco godl y man.

He had never had so much money i n hi s l i f e bef or e, f or hi s

wages wer e onl y t hr eepence a day. ' "

4 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

gr andson Davi d, our her o, Nei l ' s second son, a boy

of r emar kabl e power s, physi cal and i nt el l ect ual . He

was bor n on Mar ch 19, 1813, and bef or e t he age

of t en had wander ed over al l t he Cl yde banks about

Bl ant yr e, and had begun t o col l ect and wonder at

f l ower s and shel l s. He had al so gai ned t he pr i ze

f or r epeat i ng t he whol e 119t h Psal m ' Vi t h onl y f i ve

hi t ches" ! But , har d as he was i n body and mi nd,

he had a sof t hear t . He was wat chf ul t o l i ght en hi s

mot her ' s wor k when he coul d, gener al l y sweepi ng

and cl eani ng f or her , " even under t he door - mat , " as

she gr at ef ul l y r ecor ded, wi t h t he t hor oughness

whi ch never l ef t hi m. Happi l y f or us al l , no char -

act er i s wi t hout i t s weak si de, and even Davi d woul d

say, " Mot her , i f you' l l bar t he door , I ' l l scr ub t he

f l oor f or you, " a concessi on t hi s t o t he mal e pr ej u-

di ces of Bl ant yr e whi ch he woul d not have made i n

l at er l i f e.

I n anot her di r ect i on al so a sat i sf act or y gl eam of

human weakness i s r ecor ded, i n t hat Davi e not onl y

cl i mbed t o a hi gher poi nt i n t he r ui ns of Bot hwel l

Cast l e t han any ot her boy, but car ved hi s name up

t her e.

At t en t he boy went i nt o t he cot t on- mi l l s as a

pi ecer , f r om whi ch t i me he mai nt ai ned hi msel f , and

f ound money f or books such as onl y Scot ch peasant s

ar e i n t he habi t of buyi ng vol unt ar i l y. Out of hi s

f i r st week' s wages he bought Ruddi man' s " Rudi -

ment s, " and f r om t hat t i me pur sued t he st udy of

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. 5

Lat i n wi t h hi s usual st eadf ast ness. Hi s f act or y

wor k began at si x a. m. and l ast ed t i l l ei ght p. m.

when Davi e went t o hi s Lat i n, as soon as he had had

hi s t ea, unt i l t en wi t h t he school mast er pr ovi ded f or

t he wor k- peopl e by t hei r empl oyer s, and af t er war d

at home t i l l mi dni ght , or unt i l hi s mot her put out hi s

candl e. * But t hough he t hus became abl e t o r ead

hi s Vi r gi l and Hor ace easi l y bef or e he was si xt een,

hi s chi ef del i ght was i n sci ence. He managed t o

Page 7 of 182

scour t he count r y f or t he si mpl es ment i oned i n t he

f i r st medi cal t r eat i se he became possessed of , Cul -

pepper ' s " Her bal , " " t hat ext r aor di nar y ol d wor k on

ast r ol ogi cal medi ci ne. " " I got as deep i nt o t hat

abyss of f ant asi es, " he r ecor ds, " as my aut hor sai d

he dar ed t o l ead me. " I t seemed per i l ous gr ound t o

t r ead on f ur t her , i ndeed t he dar k hi nt of sel l i ng soul

and body t o t he devi l l oomed up bef or e Davi e' s

yout hf ul mi nd. On one of hi s expl or i ng r ambl es, i n

company wi t h t wo br ot her s, one now i n Canada and

t he ot her a cl er gyman i n t he Uni t ed St at es — " f r om

whi ch we gener al l y r et ur ned so hungr y and t i r ed

t hat t he embr yo par son of t en shed t ear s" — ^ t hey

came on a l i mest one quar r y. " I t i s i mpossi bl e t o

* Hi s par ent s wer e poor , and at t he age of t en he was put

t o wor k i n t he f act or y as a pi ecer , t hat hi s ear ni ngs mi ght ai d

hi s mot her i n t he st r uggl e wi t h t he wol f whi ch had f ol l owed

t he f ami l y f r om t he i sl and t hat bor e i t s name. Af t er ser vi ng

a number of year s as a pi ecer he was pr omot ed t o be a

spi nner . Gr eat l y t o hi s mot her ' s del i ght , t he f i r st hal f cr own

he ever ear ned was l ai d by hi m i n her l ap.

6 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

descr i be t he wonder wi t h whi ch I began t o col l ect

t he shel l s i n t he car boni f er ous l i mest one. A quar r y -

man wat ched me wi t h t he pi t yi ng eye whi ch t he

benevol ent assume when vi ewi ng t he i nsane. ' How-

ever / sai d I , ' di d t hose shel l s come i nt o t hose r ocks?'

' When God made t he r ocks He made t he shel l s i n

t hem/ was t he dampi ng r epl y/ '

Wi t hout goi ng mor e deepl y i nt o ast r onomi cal

bot any or ot her cabal i st i c l or e t han became a young

Hi ghl ander whose f at her had l ef t t he Est abl i shed

Chur ch and become deacon of an I ndependent

Chapel , Davi e managed i n hi s Sat ur day hal f - hol i -

days, and t he r ar e occasi ons when a f l ood of t he

Cl yde st opped t he mi l l s — an occur r ence whi ch, i n

spi t e of hi s t hr i f t , he coul d not hel p r ej oi ci ng i n — t o

make not abl e col l ect i ons of t he f l or a of Lanar kshi r e,

and t he f ossi l s of t he car boni f er ous l i mest one, whi l e

devour i ng hi s cl assi cs^ and al l t he poet s he was

al l owed t o r ead. One can onl y r egr et t hat Deacon

Nei l ' s pr i nci pl es f or bade novel s, so t hat hi s gr eat son

never r ead t he Waver l ey ser i es t i l l many year s

l at er .

" My r eadi ng i n t he f act or y/ ' Li vi ngst on says,

" was car r i ed on by pl aci ng t he book on a por t i on of

t he spi nni ng j enny, so t hat I coul d cat ch sent ence

af t er sent ence as I passed at my wor k. I t hus kept a

pr et t y const ant st udy, undi st ur bed by t he r oar of

machi ner y. To t hi s I owe t he power of compl et el y

abst r act i ng my mi nd, so as t o r ead and wr i t e wi t h

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. 7

per f ect comf or t ami dst t he pl ay of chi l dr en or t he

Page 8 of 182

danci ng and song of savages. " *

I t must not be i nf er r ed, however , t hat Davi e was a

mer e pr ecoci ous bookwor m, and aver se t o such spor t

as coul d be had. On t he cont r ar y, he del i ght ed i n

r ough pl ay, ducki ng hi s comr ades i n f un as he swam

past t hem i n t he Cl yde, i n whose wat er s he was a

ski l l f ul f i sher . I n t hose ear l y days t he t r out , and al l

ot her f i sh but sal mon, wer e unpr eser ved. One day

Davi e caught a f i ne sal mon. Lucki l y, br ot her

Char l i e wor e on t hat day a l ar ge pai r of t he f ami l y

t r ouser s, i n a l eg of whi ch t he " muckl e f ush" was

smuggl ed home. The deacon f or gave t hem, af t er

st er n moni t i on t o t ake no mor e sal mon — and t he

f ami l y at e t hi s one f or supper .

At t he age of ni net een he was pr omot ed t o be a

spi nner . The wor k was ver y sever e, but so much

bet t er pai d t hat he coul d now ear n enough i n t he r est

of t he year t o enabl e hi m t o at t end t he Medi cal and

Gr eek Cl asses i n t he wi nt er , and Di vi ni t y Lect ur es

i n t he summer , at Gl asgow Uni ver si t y. " Looki ng

back now at t hat per i od of t oi l , " he wr i t es i n 1874,

* The t hi r st f or r eadi ng so ear l y shown was gr eat l y st i mu-

l at ed by hi s f at her ' s exampl e. Nei l Li vi ngst one, whi l e f ond

of t he ol d Scot t i sh t heol ogy, was deepl y i nt er est ed i n t he

ent er pr i se of t he ni net eent h cent ur y, or , as he cal l ed i t , " t he

pr ogr ess of t he wor l d, " and endeavor ed t o i nt er est hi s f ami l y

i n i t , t oo. Any books of t r avel , and especi al l y of mi ssi onar y

ent er pr i se, t hat he coul d l ay hi s hands on, he eager l y r ead.

Some publ i cat i ons of t he Tr act Soci et y, cal l ed t he Weekl y

8 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" I cannot but f eel t hankf ul t hat i t f or med such a ma-

t er i al par t of my ear l y educat i on, and wer e I t o begi n

l i f e over agai n, I shoul d l i ke t o pass t hr ough t he

same har dy t r ai ni ng. " Thi s si mpl e and honest pr i de

i n pover t y was st r ong i n hi m. " My own or der , t he

honest poor , " wer e f ami l i ar wor ds wi t h hi m; and,

when asked t o change " and" f or " but " i n t he l ast

l i ne of t he epi t aph whi ch he put over hi s par ent s'

gr ave i n Hami l t on Cemet er y, poi nt edl y r ef used. I t

r an:

To SHOW THE RESTI NG- PLACE OF

Nei l Li vi ngst one

AND Agnes Hunt er , hi s wi f e,

and t o expr ess t he t hankf ul ness t o god

of t hei r chi l dr en

John, Davi d, Janet , Char l es, and Agnes,

f or poor and pi ous par ent s.

So Davi d Li vi ngst one gr ew up i n hi s r el at i ons

wi t h t he vi si bl e wor l d of whi ch he became so ear nest

Page 9 of 182

and pr of ound a st udent . But , af t er al l , t hi s i s but

Vi si t or , t he Chi l d' s Compani on and Teacher ' s Of f er i ng, wer e

t aken i n, and wer e much enj oyed by hi s son Davi d, especi al l y

t he paper s of ' * 01d Humphr ey. " Novel s wer e not admi t t ed

i nt o t he house, i n accor dance wi t h t he f eel i ng pr eval ent i n

r el i gi ous ci r cl es. Nei l Li vi ngst one had al so a f ear of books

of sci ence, deemi ng t hem unf r i endl y t o Chr i st i ani t y; hi s son

i nst i nct i vel y r epudi at ed t hat f eel i ng, t hough i t was some t i me

bef or e t he wor ks of Thomas Di ck, of B r ough t y- Fer r y, en-

abl ed hi m t o see cl ear l y, what t o hi m was of vi t al si gni f i cance,

t hat r el i gi on and sci ence wer e not necessar i l y host i l e, but

r at her f r i endl y t o each ot her .

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. 9

t he husk of men' s l i ves, and we must t ur n t o t he

ker nel — t hat whi ch must hol d conver se of some ki nd

wi t h t he i nvi si bl e, whet her we l i ke i t or not — ^ bef or e

we can f or m a cl ear pi ct ur e of any boy or man f or

our sel ves. ' ' Gr eat pai ns had been t aken by my

par ent s, " he wr i t es, " t o i nst i l t he doct r i nes of Chr i s -

t i ani t y i nt o my mi nd, and I had no di f f i cul t y i n

under st andi ng t he t heor y of f r ee sal vat i on by t he

at onement of our Savi our . " Thi s bei ng so, t he boy,

t hough obedi ent , as a r ul e, t o hi s f at her , and even

t r udgi ng wi t h pl easur e t he t hr ee mi l es t o chapel wi t h

hi m on Sundays, r esol ut el y pr ef er r ed books of t r avel

and sci ence t o ' The Cl oud of Wi t nesses, " or " The

Four f ol d St at e, " whi ch t he deacon desi r ed hi m t o

st udy i nst ead of t he danger ous l i t er at ur e t o whi ch he

was gi ven. " My di f f er ence of opi ni on r eached t he

poi nt of open r ebel l i on, and hi s l ast appl i cat i on of

t he r od was when I r ef used t o r ead Wi l ber f or ce' s

' Pr act i cal Chr i st i ani t y. ' " Thi s di sl i ke of r el i gi ous

r eadi ng cont i nued f or year s, but " havi ng l i ght ed on

t hose admi r abl e wor ks of Dr . Thomas Di ck, ' The

Phi l osophy of Rel i gi on' and ' The Phi l osophy of a

Fut ur e St at e, ' i t was gr at i f yi ng t o f i nd t hat he had

enf or ced my own convi ct i on t hat r el i gi on and sci -

ence wer e f r i endl y t o one anot her . " Nei t her he nor

any of hi s bi ogr apher s gi ve t he dat e of t hi s conver -

si on, as i t pr oved t o be. I t woul d seem, however , t o

have been connect ed, i f i t di d not coi nci de, wi t h t he

est abl i shment by Deacon Nei l of a mi ssi onar y soci -

10 TH£ LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

et y i n t hei r vi l l age. By t hi s means Davi d became

acquai nt ed wi t h t he hi st or y of Mor avi an mi ssi ons,

and t he l i ves of Henr y Mar t yn and ot her devot ed

men, amongst whi ch t hat of Char l es Gut zl af f , t he

medi cal mi ssi onar y t o Chi na, i mpr essed hi m most

st r ongl y. * He had al r eady r esol ved t o gi ve t o t he

cause of mi ssi ons al l he mi ght ear n beyond what was

necessar y f or hi s subsi st ence, when an appeal by

Gut zl af f t o t he Chur ches of Br i t ai n and Amer i ca f or

* Ther e can be no doubt t hat Davi d Li vi ngst one' s hear t was

ver y t hor oughl y penet r at ed by t he new l i f e t hat now f l owed

Page 10 of 182

i nt o i t . He di d not mer el y appr ehend t he t r ut h — t he t r ut h

l ai d hol d of hi m. The di vi ne bl essi ng f l owed i nt o hi m as i t

f l owed i nt o t he hear t of St . Paul , St . August i ne, and ot her s

of t hat t ype, subdui ng al l ear t hl y desi r es and wi shes. What

he says i n hi s book about t he f r eeness of God' s gr ace dr aw-

i ng f or t h f eel i ngs of af f ect i onat e l ove t o Hi m who bought

hi m wi t h Hi s bl ood, and t he sense of deep obl i gat i on t o Hi m

f or Hi s mer cy, t hat had i nf l uenced, i n some smal l measur e,

hi s conduct ever si nce, i s f r om hi m most si gni f i cant . Accus -

t omed t o suppr ess al l spi r i t ual emot i on i n hi s publ i c wr i t i ngs,

he woul d not have used t hese wor ds i f t hey had not been

ver y r eal . They gi ve us t he secr et of hi s l i f e. Act s of sel f -

deni al t hat ar e ver y har d t o do under t he i r on l aw of con^

^sci ei l ce, b) ecof ne~ a wi i r i ng ser vi ce under t he gl ow of di vi ne

l ove. I t was t he^ gl ow of di vi ne l ove as wel l as t he power of

consc i ence t haTl r i oved Li vmgst one. Though' Ke sel dom ~f e^

veal ed hi s i nner f eel i ngs, and har dl y ever i n t he l anguage of

ecst asy, i t i s pl ai n t hat he was moved by a cal m but mi ght y

i nwar d power t o t he ver y end of hi s l i f e. The l ove t hat

began t o st i r hi s hear t i n hi s f at her ' s house cont i nued t o move

hi m al l t hr ough hi s dr ear y Af r i can j our neys, and was st i l l

i n f ul l pl ay on t hat l onel y mi dni ght when he knel t at hi s

bedsi de i n t he hut i n I l al a, and hi s spi r i t r et ur ned t o hi s God

and Savi our .

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. H

ai d i n Chi na, det er mi ned hi m t o devot e, not hi s sur -

pl us ear ni ngs, but hi s own Hf e t o t hi s wor k, and

" f r om t hi s t i me my ef f or t s wer e const ant l y devot ed

t owar d t hi s obj ect wi t hout any f l uct uat i on. " At

f i r st he r esol ved t o accompl i sh hi s obj ect of goi ng as

a medi cal mi ssi onar y t o Chi na by hi s own ef f or t s,

but , by t he advi ce of f r i ends, he j oi ned hi msel f t o t he

London Mi ssi onar y Soci et y, whose obj ect — ' ' t o send

nei t her Epi scopacy, nor Pr esbyt er i ani sm, nor I nde-

pendency, but t he Gospel of Chr i st t o t he heat hen —

exact l y agr eed wi t h my i deas. But I had never

r ecei ved a f ar t hi ng f r om any one, and i t was not

wi t hout a pang t hat I of f er ed mysel f , f or i t was not

agr eeabl e f or one accust omed t o wor k hi s own way

t o become i n a measur e dependent on ot her s. " Hi s

appl i cat i on was accept ed, and he was summoned t o

London.

On Sept ember i , 1838, he r eached London, t o be

exami ned by t he Mi ssi on Boar d, and at t he Al der s-

gat e St r eet of f i ce met Joseph Moor e, t he Tahi t i mi s -

si onar y, who had come f r om t he West of Engl and

on t he same er r and. They became cl ose f r i ends at

once, and ni ne year s l at er Li vi ngst one wr ot e : ' ' Of

al l t hose I have met si nce we par t ed, I have seen no

one I can compar e t o you f or t r ue, hear t y f r i end-

shi p. " Bot h young men wer e i n London f or t he

f i r st t i me. On t hei r f i r st Sunday t hey wor shi pped

i n St . Paul ' s; and on t he Monday passed t hei r ex -

ami nat i on, and wer e accept ed as pr obat i oner s. On

12 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Page 11 of 182

t he Tuesday t hey began si ght - seei ng, and went f i r st

t o West mi nst er Abbey. Li vi ngst one was never

known t o ent er i t agai n ahve, but on Apr i l i 8, 1874,

hi s bones wer e l ai d t her e i n t he cent r al nave, i n t he

pr esence of a mour ni ng nat i on, and of t he f ai t hf ul

ser vant s who had car r i ed t hem f r om Lake Bang-

weol o, t hr ough f or est and swamp, and host i l e and

super st i t i ous t r i bes. *

Af t er t hei r pr ovi si onal accept ance Li vi ngst one

and Moor e wer e sent t o Mr . Ceci l ' s, at Chi ppi ng

Ongar , i n Essex, on a t hr ee mont hs' pr obat i on.

Ther e par t of t hei r wor k was t o pr epar e ser mons,

whi ch, af t er cor r ect i on by t hei r t ut or , wer e l ear nt

by hear t and del i ver ed t o t he vi l l age congr egat i on.

One Sunday Li vi ngst one was sent over t o pr each at

St anf or d f or a mi ni st er who was i l l . " He t ook hi s

t ext , " Mr . Moor e r epor t s, " r ead i t out ver y del i b-

\ er at el y, and t hen — t hen — hi s ser mon had f l ed.

J Mi dni ght dar kness came upon hi m, and he abr upt l y

* Joseph Moor e wr i t es: " On Monday we passed our f i r st

exami nat i on. On Tuesday we went t o West mi nst er Abbey.

Who t hat had seen t hose t wo young men passi ng f r om monu-

ment t o monument coul d have di vi ned t hat one of t hem woul d

one day be bur i ed wi t h a nat i on' s — r at her wi t h t he ci vi l i zed

wor l d' s — l ament , i n t hat sacr ed shr i ne? The wi l dest f ancy

coul d not have pi ct ur ed t hat such an honor awai t ed Davi d

Li vi ngst one. I gr ew dai l y mor e at t ached t o hi m. I f I wer e

asked why, I shoul d be r at her at a l oss t o r epl y. Ther e was

t r ul y an i ndescr i babl e char m about hi m, whi ch, wi t h al l hi s

r at her ungai nl y ways, and by no means wi nni ng f ace, at t r act ed

al most ever y one, and whi ch hel ped hi m so much i n hi s af t er -

wander i ngs i n Af r i ca. "

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. 13

sai d, ' Fr i ends, I have f or got t en al l I had t o say, ' and/ } v

hur r yi ng out of t he pul pi t , l ef t t he chapel . " *

Tut or Ceci l , owi ng t o Li vi ngst one' s br eak- down

i n pr eachi ng and hi s hesi t at i on i n conduct i ng f ami l y

pr ayer s, sent a r epor t t o t he boar d whi ch had near l y

ended hi s connect i on wi t h t he London Mi ssi onar y j

Soci et y, but an ext ensi on of hi s pr obat i on wasX?

* Joseph Moor e wr i t es : " Li vi ngst one and I l odged t oget her .

We r ead Lat i n and Gr eek, and began Hebr ew t oget her . Ever y

day we t ook wal ks, and vi si t ed al l t he spot s of i nt er est i n t he

nei ghbor hood, among t hem t he count r y chur chyar d whi ch was

t he bur i al - pl ace of John Locke, I n a pl ace so qui et , and a l i f e

so or di nar y as t hat of a st udent , t her e di d not occur many

event s wor t hy of r eci t al . I wi l l , however , ment i on one or t wo

t hi ngs, because t hey gi ve an i nsi ght — a ki nd of pr ophet i c

gl ance — i nt o Li vi ngst one' s af t er - car eer .

" One f oggy November mor ni ng, at t hr ee o' cl ock, he set out

f r om Ongar t o wal k t o London t o see a r el at i ve of hi s f at her ' s.

I t was about t went y- seven mi l es t o t he house he sought . Af t er

spendi ng a f ew hour s wi t h hi s r el at i on, he set out t o r et ur n on

Page 12 of 182

f oot t o Ongar . Just out of London, near Edmont on, a l ady

had been t hr own out of a gi g. She l ay st unned on t he r oad.

Li vi ngst one i mmedi at el y went t o her , hel ped t o car r y her i nt o

a house cl ose by, and havi ng exami ned her and f ound no bones

br oken, and r ecommendi ng a doct or t o be cal l ed, he r esumed

hi s wear y t r amp. Wear y and f oot sor e, when he r eached

St anf or d Ri ver s he mi ssed hi s way, and f i ndi ng af t er somej

t i me t hat he was wr ong, he f el t so dead- beat t hat he was'

i ncl i ned t o l i e down and sl eep ; but f i ndi ng a di r ect i ng- post he

cl i mbed i t , and by t he l i ght of t he st ar s deci pher ed enough t o

know hi s wher eabout s. About t wel ve t hat Sat ur day ni ght he

r eached Ongar , whi t e as a sheet , and so t i r ed he coul d har dl y

ut t er a wor d. I gave hi m a basi n of br ead and mi l k, and

I am not exagger at i ng when I say I put hi m t o bed. He f el l

at once asl eep, and di d not awake t i l l noonday had passed

on Sunday. "

t

14 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

gr ant ed, and at t he end of anot her t wo mont hs he

was f ul l y accept ed. He now went t o London t o

wal k t he hospi t al s, whi l e hi s f r i end was sent t o

Cheshunt Col l ege. Fr om t hence Moor e wr ot e t o

hi m t o get hi m a second- hand car pet f or hi s r oom.

But Davi d was qui t e scandal i zed at such ef f emi nacy,

and " posi t i vel y r ef used t o gr at i f y my wi sh. "

He cont i nued hi s medi cal st udi es t i l l November ,

1840, when, on t he eve of hi s or di nat i on, he r an

down t o Gl asgow t o obt ai n hi s di pl oma. Her e agai n

t her e had near l y been a mi scar r i age. Hi s own ac-

count of i t r uns : " Havi ng f i ni shed t he medi cal cur -

r i cul um, and pr esent ed a t hesi s whi ch r equi r ed t he

use of t he st et hoscope f or i t s di agnosi s, I unwi t -

t i ngl y pr ocur ed mysel f an exami nat i on r at her mor e

sever e t han usual i n consequence of a di f f er ence of

opi ni on bet ween me and t he exami ner s as t o whet her

t he i nst r ument coul d do what was asser t ed. How-

ever , I was admi t t ed a Li cent i at e of Facul t y of Phy -

si ci ans and Sur geons, and i t was wi t h unf ei gned

del i ght I became a member of a pr of essi on whi ch

wi t h unwear i ed ener gy pur sues f r om age t o age i t s

endeavor s t o l essen human woe. " Thi s was on

November i 6t h, on t he eveni ng of whi ch day he

went home. Ther e Davi d pr oposed t o si t up al l

ni ght , as he had t o l eave f or London i n t he ear l y

mor ni ng, but t hi s hi s mot her woul d not hear of .

He and hi s f at her t al ked t i l l mi dni ght of t he pr os -

pect s of Chr i st i an mi ssi ons. The f ami l y wer e up t o

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LI FE. 15

br eakf ast at f i ve. " Mot her made cof f ee/ ' hi s si st er

wr i t es; " Davi d r ead t he 121st and 135t h Psal ms,

and pr ayed. My f at her and he wal ked t o Gl asgow

t o cat ch t he Li ver pool st eamer . " On t he " Br oomi e-

Page 13 of 182

' l aw" f at her and son par t ed, and never met agai n.

Af t er t hat f i r st par t i ng Davi d never was i n nat i ve

Bl ant yr e agai n except f or a f ew hour s, but t he mem-

or y of hi s f i r st home l i nger ed l ovi ngl y i n hi s mi nd,

as i t does i n t hat of al l t r ue men. " Ti me and

t r avel , " he wr ot e t hi r t y year s l at er , " have not ef f aced

t he f eel i ngs of r espect I i mbi bed f or t he i nhabi t ant s

of my nat i ve vi l l age. " Two of t hese he has i mmor -

t al i zed. " Davi d Hogg, who addr essed me on hi s

deat hbed wi t h t he wor ds, ' Now, l ad, ma ke r el i g i on

t he ever y- day busi ness of yqur Ji f e^ a_ndj i ot ^ a t hi ng

o^ f f i t s and st ar t s ; f or i f you don' t ^ t empt at i ons and[

" ot her t hi ngs~wi ] Tget t he bet t er of you, ' and Thomas

Bur ke, an" ol d For t y- second Peni nsul ar sol di er , who

has been i ncessant and never wear yi ng i n good

wor ks f or about f or t y year s. . . . The vi l l ager s

f ur ni shed a pr oof t hat educat i on di d not r ender t hem

an unsaf e por t i on of t he popul at i on. They much

r espect ed t hose of t he nei ghbor i ng gent r y, who, l i ke

t he l at e Lor d Dougl as, pl aced some conf i dence i n

t hei r sense of honor . Thr ough hi s ki ndness, t he

poor est amongst us coul d st r ol l at pl easur e over t he

anci ent domai ns of Bot hwel l , and ot her spot s hal -

l owed by vener abl e associ at i ons ; and f ew of us coul d

vi ew t hese dear memor i al s of t he past wi t hout f eel -

16 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

i ng t hat t hese monument s wer e our own. The mass

of t he wor ki ng peopl e of Scot l and have r ead hi st or y,

and ar e no l evel l er s. They r ej oi ce i n t he memor i es

of Wal l ace and Br uce, ' and a' t he l ave. ' W^ hi l e

f or ei gner s i magi ne we want t he spi r i t t o over t ur n

ar i st ocr acy, we i n t r ut h hat e t hose st upi d r evol ut i ons

whi ch sweep away t i me- honor ed i nst i t ut i ons, dear

al i ke t o r i ch and poor . "

On November 20t h he was or dai ned a mi ssi onar y

i n London, and on December 8, 1840, sai l ed f or

Al goa Bay on boar d t he " Geor ge, " Capt ai n Don-

al dson. *

* I t i s no wonder t hat al l hi s l i f e Li vi ngst one had a ver y

st r ong f ai t h i n Pr ovi dence, f or at ever y t ur n of hi s car eer

up t o t hi s poi nt , some unl ooked- f or ci r cumst ance had come

i n t o gi ve a new di r ect i on t o hi s hi st or y. Fi r st , hi s r eadi ng

Di ck' s " Phi l osophy of a Fut ur e St at e, " whi ch l ed hi m t o

Chr i st , but di d not l ead hi m away f r om sci ence; t hen hi s

f al l i ng i n wi t h Gut zl af f ' s " Appeal , " whi ch i nduced hi m t o

became a medi cal mi ssi onar y; t he Opi um War , whi ch cl osed

Chi na agai nst hi m; t he f r i endl y wor d of t he Di r ect or who

pr ocur ed f or hi m anot her t r i al ; Mr . Mof f at ' s vi si t , whi ch

deepened hi s i nt er est i n Af r i ca; and f i nal l y, t he i ssue of a

danger ous i l l ness t hat at t acked hi m i n London — al l i ndi cat ed

t he unseen hand t hat was pr epar i ng hi m f or hi s gr eat wor k.

Page 14 of 182

CHAPTER 11.

START I N AFRI CA — KURUMAN.

1840- 43.

Up t o t he eve of hi s or di nat i on Li vi ngst one was

bent on goi ng t o Chi na. The opi um- war was st i l l

dr aggi ng on, but t hi s woul d not have det er r ed so

r esol ut e a man had not a new and most power f ul

i nf l uence been br ought t o bear on hi m at t hi s cr i si s.

One eveni ng Dr . Mof f at , t he Nest or of Af r i can Mi s -

si ons, who was i n Engl and on a vi si t , cal l ed at Mr s.

Sewel l ' s i n Al der sgat e St r eet , wher e Li vi ngst one

and ot her young mi ssi onar i es boar ded. The younger

man was at once deepl y i nt er est ed and at t r act ed, at -

t ended al l Dr . Mof f at ' s publ i c meet i ngs, and ended

by aski ng whet her t he Doct or t hought he mi ght do

f or Af r i ca. " Yes, " was t he r epl y; " i f you won' t go

t o an ol d st at i on, but push on t o t he vast unoccupi ed

di st r i ct t o t he nor t h, wher e on a cl ear mor ni ng I

have seen t he smoke of a t housand vi l l ages, and no

mi ssi onar y has ever been. " I t was wi t h t hi s counsel

i n hi s mi nd t hat Davi d embar ked on t he " Geor ge"

sai l i ng packet f or Al goa Bay on December 8, 1840. *

* The meet i ng of Li vi ngst one wi t h Mof f at i s f ar t oo i mpor -

t ant an event t o be passed over wi t hout r emar k. Bot h

17

18 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

The voyage of f i ve mont hs was unsat i sf act or y t o

t he ar dent young mi ssi onar y. The capt ai n i ndeed

' ' r i gged out t he shi p f or chur ch on Sundays, " but no

good came of i t t hat Li vi ngst one coul d see ; and he

wr ot e sor r owf ul l y i n hi s f i r st di spat ch t o hi s di r ec -

di r ect l y and i ndi r ect l y, Mr . Mof f at ' s i nf l uence on hi s young

br ot her , af t er war d t o become hi s son- i n- l aw, was r emar kabl e.

I n af t er - l i f e t hey had a t hor ough appr eci at i on of each ot her .

No f ami l y on t he f ace of t he gl obe coul d have been so hel pf ul

t o Li vi ngst one i n connect i on wi t h t he gr eat wor k t o whi ch

he gave hi msel f . I f t he ol d Roman f ashi on of sur names

st i l l pr evai l ed, t her e i s no househol d of whi ch al l t he member s

woul d have been bet t er ent i t l ed t o put Af r i canus af t er t hei r

name. The i nt er est s of t he gr eat cont i nent wer e dear t o

t hem al l . I n 1872, when one of t he Sear ch Expedi t i ons f or

Li vi ngst one was f i t t ed out , a gr andson of Dr . Mof f at , anot her

Rober t Mof f at , was among t hose who set out i n t he hope of

r el i evi ng hi m ; cut of f at t he ver y begi nni ng, i n t he f l ower of

hi s yout h, he l ef t hi s bones t o moul der i n Af r i can soi l .

" I had occasi on" ( Dr . Mof f at has i nf or med us) " t o cal l f or

some one at Mr s. Sewel l ' s, a boar di ng- house f or young mi s-

si onar i es i n Al der sgat e st r eet , wher e Li vi ngst one l i ved. I

obser ved soon t hat t hi s young man was i nt er est ed i n my st or y,

t hat he woul d somet i mes come qui et l y and ask me a quest i on

or t wo, and t hat he was al ways desi r ous t o know wher e I was

Page 15 of 182

t o speak i n publ i c, and at t ended on t hese occasi ons. By and

by he asked me whet her I t hought he woul d do f or Af r i ca.

I sai d I bel i eved he woul d, i f he woul d not go t o an ol d st a-

t i on, but woul d advance t o unoccupi ed gr ound, speci f yi ng t he

vast pl ai n t o t he nor t h, wher e I had somet i mes seen, i n t he

mor ni ng sun, t he smoke of a t housand vi l l ages, wher e no

mi ssi onar y had ever been. At l ast Li vi ngst one sai d : ' What

i s t he use of my wai t i ng f or t he end of t hi s abomi nabl e opi um

war ? I wi l l go at once t o Af r i ca. ' The Di r ect or s concur r ed,

and Af r i ca became bi s spher e, "

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 19

t or s, t hat " no spi r i t ual good had been done t o any -

one on boar d. " The l ong voyage, however , r ound

by Ri o de Janei r o, was of gr eat val ue t o hi msel f .

For he made a cl ose f r i end of Capt ai n Donal dson,

who gave hi m l essons i n t he use of t he quadr ant ,

of t en si t t i ng up t i l l mi dni ght t o per f ect hi s pupi l i n

t aki ng l unar obser vat i ons.

The Cape, wher e t he " Geor ge" was det ai ned f or

a mont h, pr oved a sad di sappoi nt ment . He f ound

t he mi ssi onar i es not onl y t oo many f or t he wor k, but

a di vi ded body, some sympat hi zi ng wi t h t he col o-

ni st s, some wi t h t he nat i ves. Hi s host was Dr .

Phi l i p, t he agent of t he soci et y f or payment of sal -

ar i es, who had al so a di scr et i onar y power t o make

advances f or t he bui l di ng of chur ches, school s, and

houses at mi ssi on st at i ons. Li vi ngst one had hear d

i n Engl and t hat t he Doct or was a spi r i t ual despot ,

i nf l uenced i n t hi s di r ect i on by hi s wi f e. " I came

f ul l of pr ej udi ce agai nst t hem, " he wr i t es t o hi s

f r i end and t ut or t he Rev. R. Ceci l , " and I l ef t t hem

wi t h my pr ej udi ces compl et el y t hawed, my f ear s

al l ayed, and my mi nd i mbued wi t h gr eat r espect f or

t he upr i ght Chr i st i an char act er t hey bot h exhi bi t ed

dur i ng t he whol e of my st ay. . . . I have no

doubt t hey have er r ed i n t he manner i n whi ch t hey

have exer ci sed t hei r power , but sur e I am t hat no one

who knows t hem can say t hat t he er r or s have been

commi t t ed f r om any ot her mot i ve t han a si ncer e

desi r e t o advance t he cause of Chr i st , and a deep

20 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

convi ct i on t hat t he par t i cul ar mode of appr opr i at i on

adopt ed woul d best ef f ect t hat obj ect . " *

The Doct or had al so a chur ch at Cape Town, i n

whi ch Li vi ngst one pr eached ( t hi s pr eachi ng must

have been i nci dent al onl y, f or a si ngl e Sunday or a

f ew Sundays, not an engagement f or a pr ol onged

per i od whi ch i s cal l ed a ' ' st at ed suppl y" ) , wi t h t he

r esul t t hat one par t of t he congr egat i on accused hi m

of het er odoxy t o t he Doct or , ' Svhi l e ot her s r equest ed

t he not es of my ser mon, expr essi ng a det er mi nat i on

t o act mor e t han t hey had done on t he pr i nci pl e I had

* Dr . Phi l i p was desi r ous of r et ur ni ng home f or a t i me, and

Page 16 of 182

ver y anxi ous t o f i nd some one t o t ake hi s pl ace as mi ni st er of

t he congr egat i on of Cape Town, i n hi s absence. The of f i ce

was of f er ed t o Li vi ngst one, who r ej ect ed i t wi t h no l i t t l e

emphasi s — not f or a moment woul d he t hi nk of i t , nor woul d

he pr each t he gospel wi t hi n any ot her man' s l i ne. He had not

been l ong at t he Cape when he f ound t o hi s sur pr i se and sor -

r ow t hat t he mi ssi onar i es wer e not al l at one, ei t her as t o t he

gener al pol i cy of t he mi ssi on, or i n t he mat t er of soci al i nt er -

cour se and conf i dence. The shock was a sever e one; i t was

not l essened by what he came t o know of t he spi r i t and l i f e

of a f ew — happi l y onl y a f ew — of hi s br et hr en af t er war d ;

and undoubt edl y i t had an i nf l uence on hi s f ut ur e l i f e. I t

showed hi m t hat t her e wer e mi ssi onar i es whose pr of essi on

was not suppor t ed by a l i f e of consi st ent wel l - doi ng, al t hough

i t di d not shake hi s conf i dence i n t he char act er and t he wor k

of mi ssi onar i es on t he whol e. He saw t hat i n t he mi ssi on

t her e was what mi ght be cal l ed a col oni al si de and a nat i ve

si de; some sympat hi zi ng wi t h t he col oni st s and some wi t h t he

nat i ves. He had no di f f i cul t y i n maki ng up hi s mi nd bet ween

t hem; he dr ew i nst i nct i vel y t o t he par t y t hat wer e f or pr o-

t ect i ng t he nat i ves agai nst t he unr i ght eous encr oachment s of

t he set t l er s.

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 21

i ncul cat ed. My t heme was t he necessi t y of adopt -

i ng t he benevol ence of t he Son of God as t he gov -

er ni ng pr i nci pl e of our conduct . . . . My way

of put t i ng t hi s r oused t he i ndi gnat i on of t hese

wor t hi es, w^ ho seem much mor e f ear f ul of

het er odoxy i n sent i ment t han het er odoxy i n pr ac-

t i ce. . . o I t i s a house di vi ded agai nst i t -

sel f . . o o They do al l i n t hei r power t o i nsul t

t he Doct or and r ender hi s ol d age bi t t er . . . .

They don' t deser ve a good past or , and I don' t see

anyt hi ng f or t hem but di ssol ut i on, and bei ng r e-

model ed. "

So at t he mont h' s end he sai l ed on i n t he ' ' Geor ge"

t o Al goa Bay, l eavi ng behi nd hi m at t he Cape a

r eput at i on f or i ndependence and het er odoxy, whi ch,

as we shal l see, r ose up agai nst hi m ni ne year s l at er ,

i n t he gr eat cr i si s of hi s l i f e, when he br ought hi s

f ami l y down t o embar k t hem f or Engl and, bef or e

st ar t i ng on hi s f i r st gr eat j our ney t o t he west coast .

On l eavi ng t he " Geor ge" at Al goa Bay he st ar t ed at

once i n an ox- wagon f or Dr . Mof f at ' s st at i on at

Kur uman, seven hundr ed mi l es up t he count r y,

whi ch he r eached on May 31, 1841. The f asci na-

t i on of Af r i can t r avel came on hi m at once. ' T l i ke

t hi s t r avel l i ng ver y much i ndeed. Ther e i s so much

f r eedom i n our Af r i can manner s. We pi t ch our

. ' t ent , make our f i r e, wher ever we choose ; w^ al k, r i de,

or shoot at al l sor t s of game, as our i ncl i nat i on l eads

us ; but t her e i s a gr eat dr awback — we can' t st udy or

32 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

r ead as we pl ease. I f eel t hi s ver y much, and have

made ver y l i t t l e pr ogr ess i n t he l anguage. " As t o

Page 17 of 182

t he wor k of t he Mi ssi ons he passed he coul d wr i t e :

* ' The f ul l ext ent of t he benef i t r ecei ved can be under -

st ood onl y by t hose who wi t ness i t i n cont r ast wi t h

pl aces whi ch have not been so hi ghl y f avor ed.

Ever yt hi ng I wi t nessed sur passed my hopes. I f t hi s

i s a f ai r sampl e, t he st at ement s of t he mi ssi onar i es as

t o t hei r success ar e f ar wi t hi n t he mar k. " Agai n t o

Mr . Ceci l : ' ' I l i ke t he count r y wel l . I t i s ver y l i ke

Scot l and i n appear ance, and t he Hot t ent ot s ar e f ar

super i or i n at t ai nment s t o what I had expect ed. I

t r avel ed f our days i n t he wagon of one of t hem, and

was much st r uck wi t h al l t hei r conduct , par t i cul ar l y

t he manner i n whi ch t hey conduct ed f ami l y wor shi p,

mor ni ng and eveni ng. I t r emi nded me f or ci bl y of

t he ol d Covenant er s pr ai si ng God amongst t hei r

nat i ve wi l ds. At Hankey t hei r oper at i ons f or t he

t empor al benef i t of t hei r f ami l i es, and t hei r Chr i st i an

depor t ment , ar e t r ul y del i ght f ul . They have a

pr ayer meet i ng ever y mor ni ng at f our o' cl ock, wel l

at t ended. " *

* He goes on t o say t hat as t he nat i ves had no cl ocks or

wat ches, mi st akes somet i mes occur r ed about r i ngi ng t he bel l

f or t hi s meet i ng, and somet i mes t he peopl e f ound t hemsel ves

assembl ed at t wel ve or one o' cl ock i nst ead of f our . The

wel come t o t he mi ssi onar i es ( t hei r own mi ssi onar y was r e-

t ur ni ng f r om t he Cape wi t h Li vi ngst one) was wonder f ul .

Musket s wer e f i r ed at t hei r appr oach, t hen bi g guns ; and t hen

men, women, and chi l dr en r ushed at t he t op of t hei r speed t o

shake hands and wel come t hem. The mi ssi onar y had l ost a

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 33

He f ound at Kur uman no i nst r uct i ons f r om hi s

Di r ect or s, and was t hus l ef t wi t h a f r ee hand.

Whi l e begi nni ng at once t o pr act i ce as a doct or , hi s

f i r st ai m was t o l ear n t he l anguage i n whi ch he made

r api d pr ogr ess ; hi s next , t o l ook ar ound f or t he best

pl ace t o open a new st at i on t o t he nor t h, as Dr .

Mof f at had suggest ed. Wi t h t hi s vi ew he st ar t ed i n)

t he l at er aut umn wi t h anot her mi ssi onar y and sev-

er al nat i ve agent s, and made a ci r cui t amongst t he

Bakwai ns and ot her t r i bes. The r esul t was, a con-

vi ct i on t hat no t i me was t o be l ost , and gr eat conf i -

dence i n hi msel f and hi s met hods. Gr i qua hunt er s

and ot her s wer e spr eadi ng pr ej udi ci al r epor t s

agai nst t he mi ssi onar i es, who wer e put t i ng down

pol ygamy, dr unkenness, and mar audi ng i n and

r ound Kur uman. Hi s f r ank t r eat ment of t he na-

t i ves, and ski l l i n heal i ng t hei r ai l ment s, di d much t o

count er act t hese sl ander s. He got back t o Kur u-

man by Chr i st mas, havi ng, however , pr omi sed t he

Bakwai ns t o r et ur n shor t l y. * ' When about 150

mi l es f r om home we came t o a l ar ge vi l l age. The

chi ef had sor e eyes; I doct or ed t hem, and he f ed us

l i t t l e boy, and out of r espect each of t he peopl e had somet hi ng

bl ack on hi s head. Bot h publ i c wor shi p and f ami l y wor shi p

wer e ver y i nt er est i ng, t he si ngi ng of hymns bei ng ver y beaut i -

f ul . The bear i ng of t hese Chr i st i ani zed Hot t ent ot s was i n

compl et e cont r ast t o t hat of a Dut ch f ami l y whom he vi si t ed

as a medi cal man one Sunday. Ther e was no Sunday; t he

Page 18 of 182

man' s wi f e and daught er s wer e danci ng bef or e t he house,

whi l e a bl ack pl ayed t he f i ddl e.

24 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

pr et t y wel l , and sent a f i ne buck af t er me as a pr es^

ent . When we got t en or t wel ve mi l es on t he way,

a l i t t l e gi r l el even or t wel ve year s ol d came up and

sat down under my wagon, havi ng r un away wi t h

t he pur pose of comi ng wi t h us t o Kur uman, wher e

she had f r i ends. She had l i ved wi t h a si st er l at el y

dead. Anot her f ami l y t ook possessi on of her f or

t he pur pose of sel l i ng her as soon as she was ol d

enough f or a wi f e, but not l i ki ng t hi s she det er mi ned

t o r un away. Wi t h t hi s i nt ent i on she came, and

t hought of wal ki ng al l t he way behi nd my wagon.

I was pl eased wi t h t he det er mi nat i on of t he l i t t l e

cr eat ur e and gave her f ood, but bef or e l ong hear d

her sobbi ng vi ol ent l y as i f her hear t woul d br eak.

On l ooki ng r ound I obser ved t he cause. A man

wi t h a gun had been sent af t er her , and had j ust

ar r i ved. I di d not know wel l what t o do, but was

not i n per pl exi t y l ong, f or Pomar e, a nat i ve conver t

who accompani ed us, st ar t ed up and def ended her .

He, bei ng t he son of a chi ef , and possessed of some

l i t t l e aut hor i t y, managed t he mat t er ni cel y. She

had been l oaded wi t h beads, t o r ender her mor e at -

t r act i ve and f et ch a hi gher pr i ce. These she st r i pped

of f and gave t o t he man. I af t er war d t ook measur es

f or hi di ng her , and i f f i f t y men had come t hey woul d

not have got her . " *

* The st or y r eads l i ke an al l egor y or a pr ophecy. I n t he

per son of t he l i t t l e mai d, oppr essed and ensl aved Af r i ca comes

t o t he good Doct or f or pr ot ect i on; i nst i nct i vel y she knows

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 25

Af t er a shor t r est at Kur uman he secl uded hi m-

sel f f or si x mont hs f r om al l but nat i ve soci et y at a

pl ace cal l ed Lepel oh, f or t he pur pose of per f ect i ng

hi msel f i n t he habi t s, l aws, and l anguage of t he Bak -

wai ns — an or deal whi ch pr oved of gr eat advant age

t o hi m.

" I am gl ad, " he wr i t es t o Mr . Ceci l at t hi s t i me, " I

can ant i ci pat e t he commencement of somet hi ng per -

manent i n my wor k. I t hi nk Mr s. Ceci l wi l l l augh

when I t el l you I am become a poet . I want t o t el l

you, however , and not by way of boast i ng, but t hat

you may know I have made some pr ogr ess i n t he

l anguage. I suppose you have been appr ehensi ve

t hat I shoul d not acqui r e i t , I bei ng such a poor hand

at l anguages when wi t h you; but havi ng made, or

r at her t r ansl at ed, some ver y good Engl i sh hymns

i nt o Si chuana r hyme, si x of t hem have been adopt ed

and pr i nt ed by t he Fr ench mi ssi onar i es. I f t hey

had been bad I don' t see t hat t hey coul d have had

she may t r ust hi m ; hi s hear t opens at once, hi s i ngenui t y

Page 19 of 182

cont r i ves a way of pr ot ect i on and del i ver ance, and he wi l l

never gi ve her up. I t i s a l i t t l e pi ct ur e of Li vi ngst one' s l i f e

I n f ul f i l ment of a pr omi se made t o t he nat i ves i n t he i n-

t er i or t hat he woul d r et ur n t o t hem, Li vi ngst one set out on a

second t our I nt o t he i nt er i or of t he Bechuana count r y on l ot h

Febr uar y, 1842. Hi s obj ect s wer e, f i r st , t o acqui r e t he nat i ve

l anguage m. or e per f ect l y, and second, by suspendi ng hi s

medi cal pr act i ce, whi ch had become i nconveni ent l y l ar ge at

Kur uman, t o gi ve hi s undi vi ded at t ent i on t o t he subj ect of

nat i ve agent s. He t ook wi t h hi m t wo nat i ve member s of

t he Kur umax! chur ch, and t wo ot her nat i ves f or t he manage-

ment of t he wagon.

26 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

any mot i ve f or usi ng t hem. I can speak i t now wi t h

ease, but I am yet f ar f r om per f ect i on. Thi s, how-

ever , I am not ashamed t o own; f or , af t er such sl

gr eat man as Mr . Mof f at i s, and t went y year s r esi -

dent i n t he count r y, he i s not yet per f ect . He has

put some shocki ng bl under s i nt o t he Test ament : t he

wor d used f or ' accuse/ f or i nst ance, al ways means

t he ver y opposi t e of what he i nt ends, and t hi s when

t her e ar e sever al ot her wor ds whi ch expr ess i t poi nt -

edl y. "

Af t er t hi s secl usi on he st ar t ed agai n t o keep hi s

pr omi se of r evi si t i ng t he Bakwai ns, and f ound hi m-

sel f al r eady a power i n t he count r y. The si ck and

cur i ous cr owded hi s wagon i n t he vi l l ages, but not

an ar t i cl e was st ol en. He even succeeded i n get t i ng

t he peopl e of Bubr , a f r i endl y chi ef , t o di g a canal .

' The Doct or and r ai nmaker amongst t hese peopl e

ar e one and t he same per son. As I di d not l i ke t o be

behi nd my pr of essi onal br et hr en I decl ar ed I coul d

make r ai n t oo, not , however , by enchant ment l i ke

t hem, but by l eadi ng out t hei r r i ver f or i r r i gat i on.

The i dea t ook mi ght i l y, and t o wor k we went i n-

st ant er . Even t he chi ef ' s own doct or went at i t ,

l aughi ng hear t i l y at t he cunni ng of t he f or ei gner

who can make r ai n so. We have onl y one spade,

and t hi s wi t hout a handl e, but yet by st i cks shar p-

ened we have dug a pr et t y l ong canal . The ear t h

was l i f t ed out i n ' goupens' and car r i ed t a t he huge

dam we have bui l t i n kar osses, t or t a^ i ^ e T^ el l s, or

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 37

wooden boat s. Thi s i s, I bel i eve, t he f i r st i nst ance

i n whi ch Bechuanas have been got t o wor k wi t hout

wages. " The ear her mi ssi onar i es, he wr ot e at t hi s

t i me, had gone on wr ong hnes. " I f t hese peopl e

per cei ve any one i n t he l east dependent on t hem t hey

begi n t o t yr anni ze. I am t r yi ng a di f f er ent pl an. I

make my pr esence wi t h any of t hem a f avor , and

when t hey show any i mpudence I t hr eat en t o l eave

t hem, and i f t hey don' t amend I go. They ar e i n

one sense f i er ce, and i n anot her t he gr eat est cow^ ar ds

i n t he wor l d. By a bol d, f r ee cour se among t hem I

have had not t he l east di f f i cul t y i n managi ng t he

Page 20 of 182

most f i er ce. A ki ck woul d, I am per suaded, quel l

t he cour age of t he br avest of t hem. Add t o t hi s t he

r epor t , whi ch many of t hem bel i eve, t hat I am a

gr eat wi zar d, and you wi l l under st and how I can

wi t h gr eat ease vi si t any of t hem. "

Far t her on he came t o t he Bamangwat o, and was

f avor abl y r ecei ved by t hei r chi ef , Sekomi . * Her e

* The i gnor ance of t hi s t r i be he f ound t o be exceedi ngl y -

gr eat :

" Thei r concept i ons of t he Dei t y ar e of t he most vague and

cont r adi ct or y nat ur e, and t he name of God conveys no mor e

t o t hei r under st andi ng t han t he i dea of super i or i t y. Hence

t hey do not hesi t at e t o appl y t he name t o t hei r chi ef s. I was

ever y day shocked by bei ng addr essed by t hat t i t l e, and t hough

i t as of t en f ur ni shed me wi t h a t ext f r om whi ch t o t el l t hem

of t he onl y t r ue God and Jesus Chr i st , whom he has sent , yet

i t deepl y pai ned me, and I never f el t so f ul l y convi nced of t he

l ament abl e det er i or at i on of our speci es. I t i s i ndeed a mour n-

f ul t r ut h t hat man has become l i ke t he beast s t hat per i sh. "

U THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

he st ayed f or some t i me, and Sekomi one day, hav-

i ng sat some t i me i n deep t hought , sai d : " ' I wi sh

you woul d change my hear t . Gi ve me medi ci ne t o

change i t , f or i t i s pr oud, pr oud and angr y, angr y

al ways/ I l i f t ed up t he Test ament and was about

t o t el l hi m of t he onl y way i n whi ch t he hear t can be

changed, but he i nt er r upt ed me wi t h, ' Nay, I wi sh t o

have i t changed by medi ci ne, t o dr i nk and have i t

changed at once, f or i t i s al ways ver y pr oud and ver y

uneasy, ahvays angr y wi t h some one, ' and t hen r ose

and went away. "

Hi s next hal t was wi t h t he Bakaa, a t r i be who had

r ecent l y mur der ed a t r ader and hi s company. Al l

but t he chi ef and hi s t wo at t endant s f l ed at f i r st , but

seei ng t he Doct or eat and af t er war d sl eep, came back

and at t ended a ser vi ce. ' ' I had mor e t han or di nar y

pl easur e i n t el l i ng t hese mur der er s of t he pr eci ous

bl ood whi ch cl eanset h f r om al l si n. I bl ess God

The pl ace was gr eat l y i nf est ed by l i ons, and dur i ng Li vi ng-

st one' s vi si t an awf ul occur r ence t ook pl ace t hat made a gr eat

i mpr essi on on hi m:

" A woman was act ual l y devour ed i n her gar den dur i ng my

vi si t , and t hat so near t he t own t hat I had f r equent l y wal ked

past i t . I t was most af f ect i ng t o hear t he cr i es of t he or phan

chi l dr en of t hi s woman. Dur i ng t he whol e day af t er her

deat h t he sur r oundi ng r ocks and val l eys r ang and r e- echoed

wi t h t hei r bi t t er cr i es. I f r equent l y t hought as I l i st ened t o

t he l oud sobs, pai nf ul l y i ndi cat i ve of t he sor r ows of t hose

who have no hope, t hat i f some of our chur ches coul d have

hear d t hei r sad wai l i ngs, i t woul d have awakened t he f i r m,

r esol ut i on t o do mor e f or t he heat hen t han t hey have done. "

Page 21 of 182

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 29

t hat he has conf er r ed on me t he pr i vi l eg- e and honor

of bei ng t he f i r st messenger of mer cy t hat ever t r od

t hese r egi ons. I t s bei ng al so t he f i r st occasi on on

whi ch I had vent ur ed t o addr ess a number of Bechu-

anas i n t hei r own t ongue, r ender s i t t o mysel f one

of pecul i ar i nt er est . . . . When I l ef t , t he chi ef

sent hi s son and a number of hi s peopl e t o see me

saf e par t of t he way t o t he Al akal aka. " '

* 0n hi s way home, i n passi ng t hr ough Bubi ' s count r y, he

was vi si t ed by si xt een of t he peopl e of Sebehwe, a chi ef who

had successf ul l y wi t hst ood Mosi l i kat se, but whose cowar dl y

nei ghbor s, under t he i nf l uence of j eal ousy, had banded t o-

get her t o depr i ve hi m of what t hey had not had t he cour age

t o def end. Consequent l y he had been dr i ven i nt o t he sandy

deser t , and hi s obj ect i n sendi ng t o Li vi ngst one was t o sol i ci t

hi s advi ce and pr ot ect i on, as he wi shed t o come out , i n or der

t hat hi s peopl e mi ght gr ow cor n, et c. Sebehwe, l i ke many

of t he ot her peopl e of t he count r y, had t he not i on t hat - i f he

got a si ngl e whi t e man t o l i ve wi t h hi m, he woul d be qui t e

secur e. I t was no wonder t hat Li vi ngst one ear l y acqui r ed

t he st r ong convi ct i on t hat i f mi ssi ons coul d onl y be scat t er ed

over Af r i ca, t hei r i mmedi at e ef f ect i n pr omot i ng t he t r an-

qui l l i t y of t he cont i nent coul d har dl y be over - est i mat ed.

We have gi ven t hese det ai l s somewhat f ul l y, because t hey

show t hat bef or e he had been a year i n t he count r y Li vi ng-

st one had l ear ned how t o r ul e t he Af r i cans. Fr om t he ver y

f i r st , hi s geni al addr ess, si mpl e and f ear l ess manner , and

t r anspar ent ki ndl i ness f or med a spel l whi ch r ar el y f ai l ed.

He had gr eat f ai t h i n t he power of humor . He was never

af r ai d of a man who had a hear t y l augh. By a pl ayf ul way

of deal i ng wi t h t he peopl e, he made t hem f eel at ease wi t h

hi m, and af t er war d he coul d be sol emn enough when t he occa-

si on r equi r ed. Hi s medi cal knowl edge hel ped hi m gr eat l y;

but f or per manent i nf l uence al l woul d have been i n vai n i f

he had not uni f or ml y obser ved t he r ul es of j ust i ce, good

30 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Hi s oxen si ckened, and most of t he r est of t he

j our ney was done on f oot . " Some of t hose who

had r ecent l y j oi ned us, and di d not know t hat I

under st ood a l i t t l e of t hei r l anguage, wer e over hear d

by me di scussi ng my appear ance. ' He i s not st r ong,

he i s qui t e sl i m, and onl y seems st out because he put s

hi msel f i nt o t hose bags' ( t r ouser s) ; ' he wi l l soon

knock up. ' Thi s made my Hi ghl and bl ood r i se, and

I kept t hem al l at t he t op of t hei r speed f or days t o-

get her , unt i l I hear d t hem expr ess a f avor abl e opi n-

i on of my. pedest r i an power s. "

St i l l no def i ni t e i nst r uct i ons came f r om home, so

maki ng Kur uman hi s headquar t er s he cont i nued hi s

medi cal and mi ssi onar y j our neys amongst t he nei gh-

bor i ng t r i bes. ' ' I have an i mmense pr act i ce, " he

wr i t es t o hi s ol d t ut or , Si r Ri sden Bennet t ; " pat i ent s

wal k 130 mi l es f or my advi ce. Thi s i s t he count r y

f or a medi cal man, but he must l eave f ees out of t he

quest i on. They have much mor e di sease t han I ex-

Page 22 of 182

pect ed. They ar e near l y naked, and endur e t he

scor chi ng heat of t he day and t he chi l l s at ni ght i n

t hat condi t i on. Add t o t hi s t hat t hey ar e absol ut el y

omni vor ous. I ndi gest i on, r heumat i sm, opht hal mi a

ar e t he pr evai l i ng di seases. . . . They make me

speak t hei r l anguage, and wer e I i ncl i ned t o be l azy

f eel i ng, and good manner s. Of t en he woul d say t hat t he t r ue

r oad t o i nf l uence was pat i ent cont i nuance i n wel l - doi ng. I t

i s r emar kabl e t hat , f r om t he ver y f i r st , he shoul d have seen

t he char m of t hat met hod v/ hi ch he empl oyed so successf ul l y

t o t he end.

START I N AFRI CA- KURUMAN. 31

i n l ear ni ng i t t hey woul d pr event me i ndul gi ng t he

pr opensi t y. They ar e excel l ent pat i ent s, t oo. Ther e

i s no wi nci ng; ever yt hi ng pr escr i bed i s done m-

st ant er . Thei r onl y f ai l i ng i s t hat t hey get t i r ed of

a l ong cour se, but i n any oper at i on even t he women

si t unmoved. I have been ast oni shed agai n and

agai n at t hei r cal mness. I n cut t i ng out a t umor an

i nch i n di amet er , t hey si t and t al k as i f t hey f el t

not hi ng. * A man l i ke me, ' t hey say, ' never cr i es. I t

i s chi l dr en t hat cr y. ' And i t i s a f act t hat t he

men never cr y ; but when t he spi r i t of God wor ks on

t hei r mi nds t hey cr y most pi t eousl y, t r yi ng t o hi de

t hei r heads i n t hei r kar osses, and when t hey f i nd t hat

won' t do, t hey r ush out of chur ch and r un wi t h

al l t hei r mi ght , cr yi ng as i f t he hand of deat h wer e

behi nd t hem. One woul d t hi nk t hey woul d st op

away; but no, t hey ar e i n t hei r pl aces at t he next

meet i ng. "

Hi s pr act i ce i n mi dwi f er y was, per haps, t he most

char act er i st i c. They suf f er ed l ess f r om conf i ne-

ment s t han i n ci vi l i zed count r i es, and had a pr ej udi ce

agai nst t he pr esence of mal e doct or s. A case of

t wi ns occur r ed i n whi ch t he oi nt ment s of al l t he

doct or s i n t he t own pr oved unavai l i ng. A f ew sec-

onds of Engl i sh ar t af f or ded r el i ef , and t he pr ej udi ce

vani shed at once. " 1 r eser ved mysel f f or t he di f f i cul t

cases. . . . My knowl edge of mi dwi f er y pr o-

cur ed me gr eat f ame i n a depar t ment i n whi ch I

coul d l ay no cl ai m t o mer i t . A woman came mor e

32 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t han l oo mi l es t o consul t me f or a compl ai nt whi ch

had baf f l ed t he nat i ve doct or s. A compl et e cur e was

t he r esul t , and a year l at er she bor e a son t o her hus -

band, who had pr evi ousl y r epr oached her f or bei ng

bar r en. She sent me a handsome pr esent , and pr o-

cl ai med t hat I possessed a medi ci ne f or t he r emoval

of st er i l i t y. " Thi s br ought hi m appl i cant s f or t he

chi l d- medi ci ne f r om al l par t s of t he count r y, and i t

was i n vai n f or hi m t o expl ai n t hat t he di sease he had

t r eat ed was qui t e a di f f er ent one. " I t was r eal l y

hear t r endi ng t o hear t he ear nest ent r eat y, and see

t he t ear f ul eyes. * I am get t i ng ol d; you see gr ay

Page 23 of 182

hai r s her e and t her e on my head, and I have no chi l d.

You know how Bechuana men cast t hei r ol d wi ves

away. What can I do ? I have no chi l d t o br i ng me

wat er when I am si ck, ' " et c.

I n 1842 he was agai n away, and, f i ve days' j our -

ney beyond t he Bakat l a, came t o Sechel e, chi ef of t he

Bechuanas. At f i r st Sechel e was host i l e, but hi s onl y

chi l d was i l l , and Li vi ngst one cur ed her , and t hence-

f or t h Sechel e became one of hi s war mest f r i ends and

most i nt er est i ng conver t s. Some of hi s quest i ons

puzzl ed t he Doct or , as : ' ' Si nce i t i s t r ue t hat al l who

di e unf or gi ven ar e l ost f or ever , why di d not your

nat i on come t o t el l us of i t bef or e now? M} ' " ances -

t or s ar e al l gone, and none of t hem knew anyt hi ng

of what you t el l me. How i s t hi s?" *

^Li vi ngst one r epl i ed: " I t ol d hi m mul t i t udes i n our own

count r y wer e l i ke hi msel f , so much i n l ove wi t h t hei r si ns.

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 33

At l ast , soon af t er hi s r et ur n f r om Sechel e, t he

def i ni t e per mi ssi on came t o push f or war d, and i n

June, 1843, he was abl e t o wr i t e home of t he " f eel i ng

of i nexpr essi bl e del i ght wi t h whi ch I hai l t he de-

ci si on of t he Di r ect or s, t hat w^ e go f or war d i nt o t he

dar k i nt er i or . May t he Lor d enabl e me t o conse-

cr at e my w^ hol e bei ng t o t he gl or i ous wor k. " *

A f ew ext r act s f r om hi s l et t er s t o Mr . Ceci l wi l l

expl ai n at once t he cause of t hi s del i ght , and t he

t emper and met hods whi ch he was r esol ved t o em-

My ancest or s had spent a gr eat deal of t i me i n t r yi ng t o

per suade t hem, and yet af t er al l many of t hem by r ef usi ng

wer e l ost . We now wi sh t o t el l al l t he wor l d about a Savi our ,

and i f men di d not bel i eve, t he gui l t woul d be ent i r el y t hei r s. "

* Among ot her t hi ngs t hat Li vi ngst one f ound t i me f or i n

t hese wander i ngs among st r ange peopl e, was t r ansl at i ng

hymns i nt o t he Si chuana l anguage. Wr i t i ng t o hi s f at her

( Bakwai n Count r y, 21st Mar ch, 1843) , he says:

" Janet may be pl eased t o l ear n t hat I am become a poet , or

r at her a poet ast er , i n Si chuana. Hal f a dozen of my hymns

wer e l at el y pr i nt ed i n a col l ect i on of t he Fr ench br et hr en.

One of t hem i s a t r ansl at i on of ' Ther e i s a f ount ai n f i l l ed

wi t h bl ood' ; anot her , ' Jesus shal l r ei gn wher e' er t he sun' ;

ot her s ar e on ' The ear t h bei ng f i l l ed wi t h t he gl or y of t he

Lor d, ' ' Sel f - dedi cat i on, ' ' I nvi t at i on t o Si nner s, ' ' The soul t hat

l oves God f i nds hi m ever ywher e. ' Janet may t r y t o make

Engl i sh ones on t hese l at t er subj ect s i f she can, and Agnes

wi l l doubt l ess set t hem t o musi c on t he same condi t i on. I

do not boast of havi ng done t hi s, but onl y ment i on i t t o l et

you know t hat I am get t i ng a l i t t l e bet t er f i t t ed f or t he gr eat

wor k of a mi ssi onar y, t hat your hear t s may be dr awn out t o

mor e pr ayer f or t he success of t he gospel pr ocl ai med by my

f eebl e l i ps. "

Page 24 of 182

34 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

pl oy i n t he f or war d car eer whi ch was now openi ng

t o hi m. " Ther e has al ways been some bugbear i n

t he way of t he i nt er i or , and t he t r i bes have i n conse-

quence al ways passed away i nt o dar kness. . . . I

di d not at f i r st i nt end t o gi ve up al l at t ent i on t o medi -

ci ne and t he t r eat ment of di sease, but now I f eel i t t o

be my dut y t o have as l i t t l e t o do wi t h i t as possi bl e.

I shal l at t end t o none but sever e cases i n f ut ur e, and

my r easons f or t hi s det er mi nat i on ar e, I t hi nk, good.

The spi r i t ual amel i or at i on of t he peopl e i s t he obj ect

f or whi ch I came, but I cannot expect God t o ad-

vance t hi s by my i nst r ument al i t y i f much of my t i me

i s spent i n mer e t empor al amel i or at i on. And I know

t hat i f I gave much at t ent i on t o medi ci ne and medi -

cal st udi es, somet hi ng l i ke a sor t of mani a whi ch

sei zed me soon af t er I began t he st udy of anat omy

woul d i ncr ease, and I f ear woul d gai n so much

power over me as t o make me, per haps, a ver y good

doct or , but a usel ess dr one of a mi ssi onar y. I f eel t he

sel f - deni al t hi s r equi r es ver y much, but i t i s t he onl y

r eal sacr i f i ce I have been cal l ed on t o make, and I

shal l t r y t o make i t wi l l i ngl y. " Hi s f r i ends, he goes

on, per haps wi l l wonder at hi s i nt ent i on t o go so f ar

nor t h, but none of t he t r i bes wi t hi n one hundr ed and

ei ght y mi l es nor t h of t hi s wi l l l i st en. And as t o t he

need of some one t o show t he way, he i s now t he

f our t h mi ssi onar y at Kur uman. Now at t hi s out -

post t her e ar e onl y f our hundr ed peopl e, and " al l t he

br et hr en behi nd t hi s, even down t o t he sea, ar e

START I N AFRI CA— KURUMAN. 35

cr owded t oget her wi t h scant y por t i ons of peopl e, and

many unpl easant wor ds pass as t o encr oachi ng

on each ot her ' s f i el ds, et c. . . . We can go f or -

war d and f i nd pl ent y of peopl e, and t hese, t oo, wi t h

none of t he pr ej udi ces whi ch t he near t r i bes have

unf or t unat el y i mbi bed. I was r ecei ved wi t h t he

gr eat est ki ndness by al l t he t r i bes I vi si t ed, and

some of t hem never saw a whi t e f ace bef or e ; and t he

l at i t ude at whi ch I t ur ned back i s f ar t her t han any

Eur opean has at t ai ned bef or e. I must make t he

ef f or t now when I am abl e t o st and t he heat , et c. , and

i f I wai t I shal l soon per haps be di si ncl i ned t o endur e

f at i gue. " Then as t o t he danger — af t er r ef er r i ng t o

hi s f r i end Dr . Phi l i p, t he Soci et y' s agent , who had

been at Kur uman whi l e he was away, and l ef t hi m a

message " not t o t hi nk of bui l di ng hi s house on t he

cr at er of a vol cano ; " and t hat Mosi l i kat se, t he gr eat

Makol ol o chi ef , was r eady " t o pounce on any whi t e

man and spi l l hi s bl ood, " — he goes on : " I bel i eved

t hese r epor t s, t oo, when I l ef t t hi s, but L f ound t o my

sur pr i se t hat t he Bamangwat o, whom I vi si t ed, ar e

ei ght days nor t h of t he Bakwana, and t hat Mosi l i -

kat se i s at l east f our t een days nor t h of t hem. Seei ng,

t hen, t hat t he Doct or i s, f r om havi ng been mi si n-

f or med, about t o oppose t he gospel bei ng car r i ed i nt o

t he i nt er i or , I i nt end j ust t o go on wi t hout hi s sanc -

t i on. Besi des, he does not poi nt out any pl ace wher e

I can be usef ul . I n f act he cannot , f or t he count r y

Page 25 of 182

behi nd t hi s i s over st ocked wi t h mi ssi onar i es. . . ,

36 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

The Doct or st at ed t o some of t he br et hr en t hat he

t hought I was ambi t i ous. I r eal l y am ambi t i ous t o

pr each beyond ot her men' s l i nes : but I suppose he

meant t he wr ong ki nd of ambi t i on. I don' t f eel i n

t he l east di spl eased wat h hi m. I am onl y det er mi ned

t o go on, and do al l I can whi l e abl e f or t he poor de-

gr aded peopl e i n t he nor t h. " Agai n, i n answer t o

f r i endl y war ni ngs f r om ot her quar t er s: ' ' I f eel t he

necessi t y mor e t han ever of act i ve devot edness t o t he

Redeemer ' s cause. I don' t f eel anyt hi ng we usual l y

cal l sacr i f i ces at home t o be such. Ther e i s so much

t o count er bal ance t hem t hey r eal l y don' t deser ve t he

name, and I am i n a gr eat deal mor e danger f r om

l evi t y t han f r om mel anchol y; i ndeed, i t somet i mes

makes me bl ame mysel f sever el y. When cont empl at -

i ng t he Mi ssi on f i el d bef or e I l ef t Engl and I used t o

t hi nk my spi r i t s woul d f l ag, but I f eel no di f f er ence

f r om what I f el t at home. I t i s, t her ef or e, no vi r t ue

i n me t o endur e pr i vat i ons, i t i s onl y i n t hose who

f eel t hem as such. I wi sh my mi nd wer e mor e deep-

l y af f ect ed by t he condi t i on of t hose who ar e per i sh-

i ng i n t hi s heat hen l and. I am sor r y t o say I don' t

f eel hal f as concer ned f or t hem as I ought . "

And so, i n t hi s r esol ut e and yet humbl e spi r i t , he

went f or war d r ej oi ci ng, t o f ound hi s f i r st st at i on i n

whi ch he hoped t o be per manent l y set t l ed, f ar away

t o t he nor t h, i n advance of any poi nt hi t her t o vi si t ed

by whi t e men.

CHAPTER HI .

KOLOBENG LAKE NGAMI THE ZAMBEZI .

1843- 52.

I n t he ear l y days of August , 1843, Li vi ngst one

st ar t ed f r om Kur uman, wi t h anot her mi ssi onar y who

had agr eed t o accompany hi m, f or t he beaut i f ul val -

l ey of Mabot sa, about t wo hundr ed mi l es t o t he

nor t heast , whi ch he had sel ect ed i n one of hi s ear l i er

j our neys as t he best si t e f or a st at i on. Two spor t s -

men f r om I ndi a j oi ned t he par t y, Mr . Pr i ngl e and

Capt ai n, now Gener al , Si r Thomas St eel e, t he l at t er

of whom became one of hi s best f r i ends. The power

t hat Li vi ngst one had al r eady acqui r ed wi t h t he na-

t i ves gave hi m a st r i ki ng advant age over hi s com-

pani ons, whose ampl e out f i t of hor ses, ser vant s,

t ent s, and st or es, st ood out i n mar ked cont r ast t o hi s

ox- wagon. ' ' When we r each a spot wher e we i nt end

t o pass t he ni ght , " he wr i t es home, " al l hands at once

unyoke t he oxen. Then one or t wo col l ect wood, one

st r i kes up a f i r e, anot her get s out t he wat er - bucket

and f i l l s t he ket t l e, a pi ece of meat i s t hr own on t he

f i r e, and i f we have bi scui t s we ar e at our cof f ee i n

l ess t han hal f an hour . Our f r i ends per haps si t or

Page 26 of 182

§t ^ nd shi ver i ng at t hei r f i r e f or t wo or t hr ee hour s

37

38 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

bef or e t hey get t hei r t hi ngs r eady, and ar e gl ad occa-

si onal l y of a cup of cof f ee f r om us. " *

At Mabot sa he bui l t hi s house wi t h hi s own hands,

and set t l ed t o wor k amongst t he Bakat l as, wher e he

r emai ned f or t hr ee year s. Her e t he encount er wi t h

a l i on occur r ed, whi ch, as he wr ot e, " I meant t o have

kept t o t el l my chi l dr en i n my dot age, " but on pr es -

sur e f r om f r i ends nar r at ed i n hh f i r st book as f ol -

l ows : ' ' The Bakat l a of t he vi l l age of Mabot sa wer e

t r oubl ed by l i ons, whi ch l i eaped i nt o t he cat t l e- pens

by ni ght and dest r oyed t hei r cows. They even at -

t acked t he her ds i n open day. Thi s was so unusual

an occur r ence t hat t he peopl e bel i eved t hemsel ves t o

be bewi t ched — ' gi ven, ' as t hey sai d, i nt o t he power

of t he l i ons by a nei ghbor i ng t r i be. " They went

once t o at t ack t he ani mal s, but bei ng r at her cowar dl y

i n compar i son wi t h t he Bechuanas i n gener al , t hey

r et ur ned wi t hout sl ayi ng any.

" I t i s wel l known t hat i f one i n a t r oop of l i ons i s

ki l l ed, t he r emai nder l eave t hat par t of t he cout i -

* The f i r st act of t he mi ssi onar i es on ar r i vi ng at t hei r des -

t i nat i on was t o have an i nt er vi ew wi t h t he chi ef , and ask

whet her he desi r ed a mi ssi onar y. Havi ng an eye t o t he beads,

guns, and ot her t hi ngs, of whi ch whi t e men seemed al ways

t o have an ampl e st or e, t he chi ef and hi s men gave t hem a

cor di al wel come, and Li vi ngst one next pr oceeded t o make a

pur chase of l and. Thi s, l i ke Abr aham wi t h t he sons of Het ho

he i nsi st ed shoul d be done i n l egal f or m, and f or t hi s pur -

pose he dr ew up a wr i t t en cont r act t o whi ch, af t er i t was

f ul l y expl ai ned t o t hem, bot h par t i es at t ached t hei r si g^ nat ur es

or mar ks.

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 39

t r y. The next t i me, t her ef or e, t he her ds wer e at -

t acked, I went wi t h t he peopl e t o encour age t hem t o

r i d t hemsel ves of t he annoyance by dest r oyi ng one

of t he mar auder s. We f ound t he ani mal s on a smal l

hi l l cover ed wi t h t r ees. The men f or med r ound i t

i n a ci r cl e, and gr adual l y cl osed up as t hey advanced.

Bei ng bel ow on t he pl ai n wi t h a nat i ve school mast er !

named Mabal we, I saw one of t he l i ons si t t i ng on a

pi ece of r ock wi t hi n t he r i ng. Mabal we f i r ed at hi m,

and t he bal l hi t t he r ock on whi ch t he ani mal was si t -

t i ng. He bi t at t he spot st r uck, as a dog does at a

st i ck or st one t hr own at hi m ; and t hen l eapi ng away,

br oke t hr ough t he ci r cl e and escaped unhur t . I f t he

Bakat l a had act ed accor di ng t o t he cust om of t he

count r y, t hey woul d have spear ed hi m i n hi s at t empt

t o get out , but t hey wer e af r ai d t o at t ack hi m. When

t he ci r cl e was r e- f or med, we saw t wo ot her l i ons i n

Page 27 of 182

i t , but dar ed not f i r e l est we shoul d shoot some

of t he peopl e. The beast s bur st t hr ough t he l i ne,

and, as i t was evi dent t he men coul d not be pr evai l ed

on t o f ace t hei r f oes, we bent our f oot st eps t owar d

t he vi l l age. I n goi ng r ound t he end of t he hi l l I saw

a l i on si t t i ng on a pi ece of r ock, about t hi r t y yar ds

of f , wi t h a l i t t l e bush i n f r ont of hi m. I t ook a

good ai m at hi m t hr ough t he bush, and f i r ed bot h

bar r el s i nt o i t . The men cal l ed out , ' He i s shot , he

i s shot ! ' Ot her s cr i ed, ' He has been shot by anot her

man, t oo; l et us ; ^ o t o hi m! ' I saw t he l i on' s t ai l

er ect ed i n SLn^ ei 9: ad, t ur ni ng t o t he peopl e, sai d,

40 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

* St op a l i t t l e t i l l I l oad agai n/ When i n t he act of

r ammi ng down t he bul l et s I hear d a shout , and, l ook -

i ng hal f r ound, I saw t he l i on i n t he act of spr i ngi ng

upon me. He caught me by t he shoul der , and we

bot h came t o t he gr ound t oget her . Gr owl i ng hor r i -

bl y, he shook me as a t er r i er dog does a r at . The

shock pr oduced a st upor si mi l ar t o t hat whi ch seems

t o be f el t by a mouse af t er t he f i r st gr i p of t he cat . I t

caused a sor t of dr eami ness, i n whi ch t her e was no

sense of pai n nor f eel i ng of t er r or , t hough I was

qui t e consci ous of al l t hat was happeni ng. I t was

l i ke what pat i ent s par t i al l y under t he i nf l uence of

chl or of or m descr i be — t hey see t he oper at i on, but do

not f eel t he kni f e. Thi s pl aci di t y i s pr obabl y pr o-

duced i n al l ani mal s ki l l ed by t he car ni vor a ; and i f

so, i s a mer ci f ul pr ovi si on of t he Cr eat or f or l essen-

i ng t he pai n of deat h. As he had one paw on t he

back of my head, I t ur ned r ound t o r el i eve mysel f of

t he wei ght , and saw hi s eyes di r ect ed t o Mabal we,

who was ai mi ng at hi m f r om a di st ance of t en or f i f -

t een yar ds. Hi s gun, whi ch was a f l i nt one, mi ssed

f i r e i n bot h bar r el s. The ani mal i mmedi at el y l ef t me

t o at t ack hi m, and bi t hi s t hi gh. Anot her man,

whose l i f e I had saved af t er he had been t ossed by a

buf f al o, at t empt ed t o spear t he l i on, upon whi ch he

t ur ned f r om Mabal we and sei zed t hi s f r esh f oe by

t he shoul der . At t hat moment t he bul l et s t he beast

had r ecei ved t ook ef f ect , and he f el l down dead. The

whol e was t he wor k of a f ew moment s, and must

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 41

have been hi s par oxysm of dyi ng r age. I n or der t o

t ake out t he char m f r om hi m, t he Bakat l a on t he f ol -

l owi ng day made a huge bonf i r e over t he car case,

whi ch was decl ar ed t o be t he l ar gest ever seen. Be-

si des cr unchi ng t he bones i nt o spl i nt er s, el even of hi s

t eet h had penet r at ed t he upper par t of my ar m. The

bi t e of a l i on r esembl es a gun- shot wound. I t i s gen-

er al l y f ol l owed by a gr eat deal of sl oughi ng and di s -

char ge, and ever af t er war d pai ns ar e f el t per i odi cal l y

i n t he par t . I had on a t ar t an j acket , whi ch I bel i eve

wi ped of f t he vi r us f r om t he t eet h t hat pi er ced t he

f l esh, f or my t wo compani ons i n t he af f r ay have bot h

suf f er ed f r om t he usual pai ns, whi l e I have escaped

Page 28 of 182

wi t h onl y t he i nconveni ence of a f al se j oi nt i n my

l i mb. The wound of t he man who was bi t i n t he

shoul der act ual l y bur st f or t h af r esh on t he same

mont h of t he f ol l owi ng year . Thi s cur i ous poi nt

deser ves t he at t ent i on of i nqui r er s. "

I n a l et t er t o t he Di r ect or s, Li vi ngst one br i ef l y ad-

ver t s t o Mabal we' s ser vi ce on t hi s occasi on, but

makes i t a peg on whi ch t o hang some st r ong r e-

mar ks on t hat f avor i t e t opi c — t he empl oyment of na-

t i ve agency :

' ' Our nat i ve assi st ant Mabal we has been of consi d-

er abl e val ue t o t he Mi ssi on. I n endeavor i ng t o save

my l i f e he near l y l ost hi s own, f or he was caught

and wounded sever el y, but bot h bef or e bei ng l ai d

asi de, and si nce hi s r ecover y, he has shown gr eat

wi l l i ngness t o be usef ul . The cheer f ul manner i n

4^ THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE. '

whi ch he engages wi t h us i n manual l abor i n t he st a^

t i on, and hi s af f ect i onat e addr esses t o hi s count r y -

men, ar e t r ul y gr at i f yi ng. Mr . E. t ook hi m t o some

of t he nei ghbor i ng vi l l ages l at el y, i n or der t o i nt r o-

duce hi m t o hi s wor k; and I i nt end t o depar t t o-

mor r ow f or t he same pur pose t o sever al of t he vi l -

l ages si t uat ed nor t heast of t hi s. I n al l t her e may be

a dozen consi der abl e vi l l ages si t uat ed at conveni ent

di st ances ar ound us, and we each pur pose t o vi si t

t hem st at edl y. I t woul d be an i mmense advant age

t o t he cause had we many such agent s. ' '

I n 1844 Dr . Mof f at r et ur ned wi t h hi s f ami l y t o

Kur uman, and t owar d t he end of t he year , * ' af t er

near l y f our year s of Af r i can l i f e as a bachel or , I

scr ewed up cour age t o put a quest i on beneat h one of

t he f r ui t - t r ees, t he r esul t of whi ch was t hat I became

uni t ed i n mar r i age t o Mr . Mof f at ' s el dest daught er

Mar y. Havi ng been bor n i n t he count r y, and bei ng

exper t i n househol d mat t er s, she was al ways t he best

spoke i n t he wheel at home ; and, when I t ook her on

t wo occasi ons t o Lake Ngami and f ar beyond, she

endur ed mor e t han some who have wr i t t en l ar ge

books of t r avel s. "

The young coupl e spent t hei r f i r st year at Ma-

bot sa, wher e, besi des a good house, school s, and

chur ch, Li vi ngst one had made an excel l ent gar den. *

* Unhappi I y, Mr . and Mr s. Li vi ngst one' s r esi dence at Ma-

bot sa was embi t t er ed by a pai nf ul col l i si on wi t h t he mi s -

si onar y who had t aken par t i n r ear i ng t he st at i on. Li vi ng-

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 43

But now a di f f er ence ar ose bet ween hi m and hi s

br ot her mi ssi onar y, and r at her t han add one mor e t o

t he squabbl es whi ch had vexed hi s soul at t he sout h-

er n st at i ons, he, wi t h hi s wi f e' s appr oval , r emoved t o

Page 29 of 182

Chonuane, f or t y mi l es nor t h of Mabot sa, a vi l l age

of t he Bakwai ns, and t he r esi dence of t hei r chi ef ,

Sechel e, whom he had al r eady made hi s f r i end. The

st one was accused of act i ng unf ai r l y by hi m, of assumi ng t o

hi msel f mor e t han hi s due, and at t empt s' wer e made t o di s -

cr edi t hi m, bot h among t he mi ssi onar i es and t he Di r ect or s.

I t was a ver y pai nf ul or deal , and Li vi ngst one f el t i t keenl y.

He hel d t he accusat i on t o be unj ust , as most peopl e wi l l

hol d i t t o have been who know t hat one of t he char ges agai nst

hi m was t hat he was a " nonent i t y" ! A t one of i ndi gnat i on

per vades hi s l et t er s — t hat af t er havi ng bor ne t he heat and

bur den of t he day, he shoul d be accused of cl ai mi ng f or hi m-

sel f t he cr edi t due t o one who had done so l i t t l e i n com-

par i son. But t he nobl e spi r i t of Li vi ngst one r ose t o t he occa-

si on. Rat her t han have any scandal bef or e t he heat hen, he

woul d gi ve up hi s house and gar den at Mabot sa, wi t h al l t he

t oi l and money t hey had cost hi m, go wi t h hi s young br i de t o

some ot her pl ace, and begi n anew t he t oi l of house and school

bui l di ng, and gat her i ng t he peopl e ar ound hi m. Hi s col l eague

was so st r uck wi t h hi s gener osi t y t hat he sai d had he known

hi s i nt ent i on he never woul d have spoken a wor d agai nst

hi m. Li vi ngst one had spent al l hi s money, and out of a sal ar y

of a hundr ed pounds i t was not easy t o bui l d a house ever y

ot her year . But he st uck t o hi s r esol ut i on. Par t i ng wi t h hi s

gar den evi dent l y cost hi m a pang, especi al l y when he t hought

of t he t ast el ess hands i nt o whi ch i t was t o f al l . " I l i ke a

gar den, " he wr ot e, " but par adi se wi l l make amends f or al l our

pr i vat i ons and sor r ows her e. " Sel f - deni al was a f i r ml y est ab-

l i shed habi t wi t h hi m; and t he passi on of " movi ng on" was

war m i n hi s bl ood. Mabot sa di d not t hr i ve af t er Li vi ngst one

l ef t i t , but t he br ot her wi t h whom he had t he di f f er ence l i ved

t o mani f est a ver y di f f er ent spi r i t .

44 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Bakat l a of f er ed t o bui l d hi m a new house and school s

at anot her of t hei r vi l l ages — t o do, i n shor t , any-

t hi ng t o keep hi m amongst t hem — t o hi s sur pr i se,

f or t her e had been f ew conver si ons, and he r eckoned

hi s wor k t her e a f ai l ur e. He per si st ed, however ,

and t o Chonuane t hey went , and began t hei r wor k

agai n f r om t he begi nni ng. Thei r l i f e t her e i s vi v -

i dl y descr i bed i n hi s l et t er s. ' ' Bui l di ng, gar deni ng,

cobbl i ng, doct or i ng, t i nker i ng, car pent er i ng, gun-

mendi ng, f ar r i er i ng, wagon- mendi ng, pr eachi ng,

school i ng, l ect ur i ng on physi cs accor di ng t o my

means, besi des a chai r i n di vi ni t y t o a cl ass of t hr ee,

f i l l up my t i me. . . . My wi f e made candl es,

soap, and cl ot hes, and t hus we had near l y at t ai ned

t o t he i ndi spensabl e accompl i shment s of a mi ssi on-

ar y f ami l y i n Cent r al Af r i ca — t he husband a j ack-

of - al l - t r ades wi t hout door s, and t he wi f e a mai d- of -

al l - wor k wi t hi n. "

Ever yt hi ng pr omi sed weh at Chonuane. The

chi ef , Sechel e, was hi s f i r st conver t , and i n a f ew

weeks was abl e t o r ead t he Bi bl e, hi s f avor i t e Book

bei ng I sai ah. ' ' He was a f i ne man t hat I sai ah; he

knew how t o speak. " I n hi s new- bor n zeal Sechel e

pr oposed summar y met hods of conver si on. " Do

you t hi nk you can make my peopl e bel i eve by t al ki ng

Page 30 of 182

t o t hem ?" he ur ged. " I can make t hem do not hi ng

except by t hr ashi ng t hem, and i f you l i ke I shal l cal l

my head- man, and wi t h our whi ps of r hi nocer os hi de

we wi l l soon make t hem al l bel i eve t oget her . " Thi s

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 45

was decl i ned, and Sechel e soon began t o under st and

what spi r i t he was of , and t o adopt Li vi ngst one' s

met hods, t hough t hei r appar ent f ai l ur e gr i eved hi m

sor el y. He began f ami l y wor shi p i n hi s house, and

sur pr i sed Li vi ngst one by t he si mpl e and beaut i f ul

st yl e i n whi ch he conduct ed i t ; but , except hi s own

f ami l y, no one at t ended. ' ' I n f or mer t i mes, " he

compl ai ned, ' ' i f a chi ef w^ as f ond of hunt i ng, al l hi s

peopl e got dogs and became f ond of hunt i ng, t oo. I f

he l oved beer , t hey al l r ej oi ced i n st r ong dr i nk. But

now i t i s di f f er ent . I l ove t he wor d of God, but not

one of my br et hr en wi l l j oi n me. "

The t wo chi ef causes f or t hi s f ai l ur e wxr e t hat

Sechel e had, af t er l ong st r uggl e and debat e wi t h

hi msel f , put away al l hi s wi ves but one, gi vi ng t hem

new cl ot hi ng and al l t he goods t hey had i n t hei r sep-

ar at e hut s. Thi s al i enat ed al l t hei r r el at i ves

amongst t he chi ef men, whi l e t he r est at t r i but ed t o

t he new r el i gi on t he dr ought whi ch came on t hem

and l ast ed f or f our year s. So sever e was i t t hat t he

t r i be by Li vi ngst one' s advi ce mi gr at ed f r om Chonu-

ane af t er t he f i r st year t o Kol obeng, on t he banks of

a st r eam of t hat name, f or t y mi l es t o t he nor t h,

w^ her e Li vi ngst one bui l t hi s t hi r d house wat h hi s own

hands. But t he dr ought cont i nued at t he new st a-

t i on, and t he t r i be became poor er year by year .

They bel i eved t hat Li vi ngst one had bewi t ched t hei r

chi ef , and t he ol d counci l l or s came t o hi m, ent r eat i ng

hi m t o al l ow Sechel e t o mi i ke a f ew shower s. " The

46 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

cor n wi l l di e i f you r ef use, and we shal l become scat -

t er ed. Onl y l et hi m make r ai n t hi s once, and we

shal l al l come t o t he school , and si ng and pr ay as

, l ong as you pl ease. " ' ' We l i ke you, " r emonst r at ed

Sechel e' s uncl e, ' ' as wel l as i f you had been bor n

amongst us. You ar e t he onl y whi t e man we can

become f ami l i ar wi t h, but we wi sh you t o gi ve up

t hat ever l ast i ng pr eachi ng and pr ayi ng. We cannot

become f ami l i ar wi t h t hat at al l . You see, we never

get r ai n, whi l e t hose t r i bes t hat never pr ay get

pl ent y. "

I n vai n Li vi ngst one pl eaded t hat onl y God coul d

make r ai n. He r ecor ds pat het i cal l y t he answer s, of

t he f al l acy of whi ch he coul d never convi nce t hem.

" Tr ul y! " t hey sai d; " but God t ol d us di f f er ent l y.

He made bl ack men f i r st , but di d not l ove us as he

di d t he whi t e men. He made you beaut i f ul , and

gave you cl ot hi ng and guns and gunpowder , and

hor ses and wagons, and many ot her t hi ngs about

Page 31 of 182

whi ch we know not hi ng. But t owar d us he had no

hear t . He gave us not hi ng but t he assegai , and

cat t l e, and r ai n- maki ng; and he di d not gi ve us

hear t s l i ke your s. We never l ove each ot her . Ot her

t r i bes pl ace medi ci nes about our count r y t o pr event

t he r ai n, so t hat we may be di sper sed by hunger , and

go t o t hem and add t o t hei r power . We must di s -

sol ve t hei r char ms by our medi ci nes. God has gi ven

us one l i t t l e t hi ng whi ch you know not hi ng of — t he

knowl edge of cer t ai n medi ci nes by whi ch we can

KOLOBENG- LAKE NGAMI - THE ZAMBEZI . 4- ^

make r ai n. We do not despi se t hose t hi ngs you

possess, t hough we ar e i gnor ant of t hem. You

ought not t o despi se our Ht t l e knowl edge, t hough

you ar e i gnor ant of i t . "

But dur i ng t he l ong t r i al of t he dr ought , " They

al l cont i nued t o t r eat us wi t h r espect f ul ki nd-

ness. . . . I am not awar e of ever havi ng had

an enemy i n t he t r i be. "

The depr essi on of t he l ong dr ought , keenl y as he

f el t i t , was not al l owed t o hi nder any of t he wor k he

had set hi msel f , t he most ur gent of whi ch he hel d t o

be t he pl ant i ng nat i ve t eacher s, t r ai ned by hi msel f

at Kol obeng, amongst t he nei ghbor i ng t r i bes. Those

t o t he east r oused hi s speci al sympat hy, and hi s

ef f or t s on t hei r behal f had an i mpor t ant i nf l uence on

hi s f ut ur e l i f e. He f ound t hem pr act i cal l y ensl aved

by t he Boer s of t he Cashan Mount ai ns di st r i ct , who

pl under ed t hei r cat t l e and made t hem wor k wi t hout

wages. On hi s f i r st vi si t t he Commandant i nsi st ed :

' ' You must t each t he bl acks t hat t hey ar e not our

equal s. . . . You mi ght as wel l t r y t o t each t he

baboons. " Li vi ngst one r epl i ed by of f er i ng t o t est

whet her t he Boer s or hi s nat i ve at t endant s coul d

r ead best . Fr om t hi s t i me hi s r el at i ons wi t h t he

Boer s became mor e and mor e st r ai ned. I n t he f ol -

l owi ng year s many of t hem came t o Kol obeng, t o

get medi ci ne and advi ce f r om hi m, and t o t r ade.

The r epor t s t hey car r i ed back i nf l amed t he j eal ousy

of t hei r nat i on. They summoned Sechel e t o ac-

48 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

knowl edge hi msel f t hei r vassal , and t o st op Engl i sh

t r ader s and spor t smen f r om passi ng t o t he count r y

beyond or sel l i ng f i r ear ms. " I was made an i nde-

pendent chi ef and pl aced her e by God, and not by

you, " Sechel e answer ed. " The Engl i sh ar e my

f r i ends. I get al l I want f r om t hem. I cannot

hi nder t hem f r om goi ng wher e t hey l i ke. " *

* Whi l e r esi di ng at Chonuane, Li vi ngst one per f or med t wo

j our neys east war d, i n or der t o at t empt t he r emoval of cer t ai n

obst acl es t o t he est abl i shment of at l east one of hi s nat i ve

t eacher s i n t hat di r ect i on. Thi s br ought hi m i nt o connect i on

wi t h t he Dut ch Boer s of t he Cashan mount ai ns, ot her wi se

Page 32 of 182

cal l ed Magal i esber g. The Boer s wer e emi gr ant s f r om t he

Cape, who had been di ssat i sf i ed wi t h t he Br i t i sh r ul e, and

especi al l y wi t h t he emanci pat i on of t hei r Hot t ent ot sl aves, and

had cr eat ed f or t hemsel ves a r epubl i c i n t he nor t h ( t he

Tr ansvaal ) , i n or der t hat t hey mi ght pur sue, unmol est ed, t he

pr oper t r eat ment of t he bl acks. " I t i s al most needl ess t o

add, " says Li vi ngst one, " t hat pr oper t r eat ment has al ways

cont ai ned i n i t t he essent i al el ement of sl aver y, vi z. , compul -

sor y unpai d l abor . " The Boer s had ef f ect ed t he expul si on of

Mosi l i kat se, a savage Zul u war r i or , and i n r et ur n f or t hi s

ser vi ce t hey consi der ed t hemsel ves sol e mast er sr of t he soi l .

Whi l e st i l l engaged i n t he er ect i on of hi s dwel l i ng- house at

Chonuane, Li vi ngst one r ecei ved not es f r om t he Commandant

and Counci l of t he emi gr ant s, r equest i ng an expl anat i on of

hi s i nt ent i ons, and an i nt i mat i on t hat t hey had r esol ved t o

come and depr i ve Sechel e of hi s f i r e- ar ms. About t he same

t i me he r ecei ved sever al ver y f r i endl y messages and pr esent s

f r om Mokhat l a, chi ef of a l ar ge sect i on of t he Bakhat l a, who

l i ved about f our days east war d of hi s st at i on, and had once,

whi l e Li vi ngst one was absent , pai d a vi si t t o Chonuane, and

expr essed sat i sf act i on wi t h t he i dea of obt ai ni ng Paul , a nat i ve

conver t , as hi s t eacher . As soon as hi s house was habi t abl e,

Li vi ngst one pr oceeded t o t he east war d, t o vi si t Mokhat l a, and

t o conf er wi t h t he Boer s.

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 49

A r ai d on Kol obeng was pl anned by t he Boer s,

whi ch Li vi ng- st one hear d of , and pr event ed f or t he

t i me by a vi si t of r emonst r ance t o Mr . Kr i eger , t he

Commandant ; but t he cl oud hung menaci ngl y over

t he Bakwai ns. Thi s t hought t r oubl ed Li vi ngst one,

who f el t t hat hi s pr esence amongst t hem was becom-

i ng a danger t o t he t r i be. The convi ct i on, t oo, was

gr owi ng on hi m t hat t he Kol obeng st r eam had per -

manent l y di sappear ed, and t hat t he t r i be woul d have

t o move agai n. Wher e wer e t hey or he t o go ? To

t he east t he Boer s bar r ed t he way; on t he west and

nor t h l ay t he gr eat Kal ahar i deser t , wher e none but

Bushmen coul d l i ve. What was t o be done?*

I t was now t hat t he r umor s whi ch had r eached

hi m of a l ake away i n t he nor t h, on t he ot her si de of

t he Kal ahar i deser t , and a f amous chi ef who l i ved

* I n hi s l et t er s t o f r i ends at home, what ever t opi c Li vi ng-

st one may t ouch, we see evi dence of one over - mast er i ng i dea

— t he vast ness of Af r i ca, and t he dut y of begi nni ng a new

ar ea of ent er pr i se t o r each i t s peopl e. Among hi s f r i ends

t he Scot ch Congr egat i onal i st s, t her e had been a keen cont r o-

ver sy on some poi nt s of Cal vi ni sm. Li vi ngst one di d not l i ke

i t ; he was not a hi gh Cal vi ni st t heor et i cal l y, yet he coul d

not accept t he new vi ews, " f r om a secr et f eel i ng of bei ng

absol ut el y at t he di vi ne di sposal as a si nner ; " but t hese wer e

t heor et i cal quest i ons, and wi t h dar k Af r i ca ar ound hi m, he

di d not see why t he br et hr en at home shoul d spl i t on t hem.

Mi ssi onar y i nf l uence i n Sout h Af r i ca was di r ect ed i n a wr ong

channel . Ther e wer e t hr ee t i mes t oo many mi ssi onar i es i n

t he col ony, and vast r egi ons beyond l ay unt ouched. He wr ot e

t o Mr . Wat t : " I f you meet me down i n t he col ony bef or e

ei ght year s ar e expi r ed, you may shoot me. "

Page 33 of 182

50 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

beyond i t , came back t o hi m wi t h gr eat f or ce. Sebi -

t uane, t he chi ef i n quest i on, and head of t he Mako-

l ol o, had al so gat her ed t he r emnant s of ot her t r i bes,

br oken up by war s or f l yi ng f r om t he Boer s. He

had saved t he Hf e of Sechel e i n hi s i nf ancy, and

est abHshed hi m i n hi s chi ef t ai nshi p. Sechel e r e-

por t ed hi m eager t o wel come st r anger s. Mor eover ,

he and hi s t r i be had cr ossed t he deser t t hi r t y year s

bef or e. Wher e men had gone, men mi ght f ol l ow.

At t hi s cr i si s t wo Engl i shmen, Mur r ay and Oswel l ,

had oppor t unel y ar r i ved on a hunt i ng- t our and wer e

eager t o j oi n hi m. The l at t er , who had been sent on

by hi s f r i end Capt ai n St eel e, of f er ed t o def r ay al l t he

cost of gui des; and so, on June i , 1849, t hey st ar t ed

f or t he deser t .

Oswel l became one of Li vi ngst one' s dear est

f r i ends, and godf at her t o hi s t hi r d son. " I l ove

hi m, " he wr ot e si xt een year s l at er , ' ' wi t h t r ue af f ec -

t i on. I bel i eve he does t he same t o me, and yet we

never show i t . " And agai n: " You know Oswel l

was one of Ar nol d' s Rugby boys. One coul d see hi s

t r ai ni ng i n al ways doi ng what was br ave, and t r ue,

and r i ght . " Hi s f ame f or f eat s of st r engt h and

cour age st i l l l i nger ed at hi s ol d school , whi ch he had

l ef t f our t een year s bef or e j oi ni ng Li vi ngst one at

Kol obeng, and meant i me had become a mi ght y

hunt er . ' ' When my men wi shed t o f l at t er me, "

Li vi ngst one wr ot e, " t hey woul d say, ' I f you wer e

not a mi ssi onar y j ou woul d be j us^ l i ke Oswel l , you

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 51

woul d not hunt wi t h dogs/ c o . They decl ar e

he i s t he gr eat est hunt er t hat ever came i nt o t he

count r y. He has been known t o ki l l f our ol d mal e

el ephant s i n a day, and t he val ue of t he i vor y woul d

be one hundr ed gui neas. " Whi l e admi t t i ng t he

pr owess of hi s compani ons, Li vi ngst one' s men

l ooked upon t hem as a ki nd of l unat i c but cher s,

whi ch gr i eved t he good mi ssi onar y. The Bakwai n

l anguage has no wor d f or spor t , so he had di f f i cul t y

i n answer i ng such quest i ons as, " Have t hese hun-

t er s, who come so f ar and wor k so har d, no meat at

home?" ' ' Why, t hey ar e r i ch; t hey coul d ki l l oxen

ever y day. I t i s f or t he sake of t he pl ay i t af f or ds. "

Thi s causes a l augh, as much as t o say " Ah, you

know bet t er , " or " Your f r i ends ar e f ool s. "

The expedi t i on st ar t ed wi t h ei ght y oxen, t went y

hor ses, and about t went y men. I t pr oved a t oi l some

and danger ous j our ney, at f i r st al ong t he beds of

st r eams l ong dr y, wher e wat er was onl y pr ocur abl e

by deep di ggi ng ; af t er war d acr oss a f l at wher e t her e

was none. At one poi nt t he oxen wer e f our days

wi t hout wat er , and t hei r mast er s scar cel y bet t er of f .

When t hey wer e at t he wor st , Oswel l saw an obj ect

skul ki ng al ong i n t he bush, and t aki ng i t f or a l i on,

Page 34 of 182

r ode af t er i t . I t pr oved t o be a Bushwoman. " She

t hought her sel f capt ur ed, and of f er ed t o del i ver up

her pr oper t y, w^ hi ch consi st ed of a f ew t r aps made of

cor ds. When I expl ai ned t hat we onl y want ed

wat ^ r and woul d pay her , she wal ked br i skl y b^

52 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

f or e our hor ses f or ei ght mi l es, and br ought us t o

Neckockot sa. We r ewar ded her wi t h a pi ece of

meat and a good, l ar ge bunch of beads. At t he

si ght of t he l at t er she bur st i nt o a mer r y l augh. "

At Neckockot sa, Oswel l w^ as t he f i r st t o di scover

( as he t hought ) t he l ake t hey wer e bound f or . * ' He

t hr ew up hi s hat i n t he ai r and shout ed out a huzza

whi ch made t he poor Bushwoman and t he Bakwai ns

t hi nk hi m mad. I was as much decei ved as he. " I t

was t he mi r age. They wer e yet t hr ee hundr ed mi l es

f r om Lake Ngami .

But t hei r t r oubl es wer e over , f or on Jul y 4t h t hey

had cl ear ed t he deser t and st r uck a f i ne r i ver , t he

Zouga. The r est of t hei r j our ney was al ong t he

bank of t hi s r i ver , or i n canoes, and, t o t hei r ast on-

i shment and del i ght , bef or e r eachi ng t he l ake t hey

came upon anot her and l ar ger st r eam, t he Tamu-

nakl e. " I i nqui r ed whence i t came. ' Oh, f r om a

count r y f ul l of r i ver s — so many no one can t el l t hei r

number , and of l ar ge t r ees. ' " Her e was a conf i r ma-

t i on of hi s hopes of a popul ous count r y i n t he unex -

pl or ed nor t h f i t f or st at i ons, and so f ul l was hi s mi nd

of t hi s pr ospect t hat Lake Ngami no l onger seemed

of i mpor t ance t o hi m. They r eached i t on August

1st , t he f i r st whi t e men who had ever l ooked on i t ^

or at any r at e wdi o had l i ved t o t el l t he t al e. On

August 2d Li vi ngst one appl i ed t o t he chi ef of t hi s

end of t he l ake f or gui des and canoes t o cr oss t he

Ti i munakl e, her e qui t e unf or dabl e. He, j eal ous of

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 53

t hei r passi ng t o Sebi t uane, r ef used. ' ' I t r i ed har d

t o f or m a r af t , but t he dr y wood was so wor m- eat en

t hat i t woul d not bear t he w^ ei ght of a si ngl e per son.

I wor ked many hour s i n t he wat er , f or I was not

t hen awar e of t he number of al l i gat or s, and never

t hi nk of my l abor s wi t hout f eel i ng t hankf ul t hat I

escaped t hei r j aws. " Not hi ng mor e coul d be done.

Oswel l vol unt eer ed t o go t o t he Cape and br i ng up a

boat f or next year , and t hey t ur ned t hei r f aces home-

war d. *

Thi ngs wer e get t i ng wor se at Kol obeng. The

♦Har dl y wer e t hi ngs begun t o be set t l ed at Kol obeng, when,

by way of r el axat i on, Li vi ngst one ( Januar y, 1848) agai n

moved east war d. He woul d have gone sooner , but " a mad

sor t of Scot chman" ( Mr . Gor don Gummi ng) havi ng wan-

der ed past t hem shoot i ng el ephant s, and l ost al l hi s cat t l e by

Page 35 of 182

t he bi t e of t he t set se- f l y, Li vi ngst one had t o go t o hi s hel p;

and mor eover t he dam, havi ng bur st , r equi r ed t o be r epai r ed.

Sechel e set out t o accompany hi m, and i nt ended t o go wi t h

hi m t he whol e way ; but some f r i ends havi ng come t o vi si t t he

t r i be, he had t o r et ur n, or at l east di d r et ur n, l eavi ng Li vi ng-

st one f our gal l ons of por r i dge, and t wo ser vant s t o act i n hi s

st ead. " He i s about t he onl y i ndi vi dual , " says Li vi ngst one,

" who possesses di st i nct , consi st ent vi ews on t he subj ect of our

mi ssi on. He i s bound by hi s wi ves : has a cur i ous i dea —

woul d l i ke t o go t o anot her count r y f or t hr ee or f our year s

i n or der t o st udy, wi t h t he hope t hat pr obabl y hi s wi ves woul d

have mar r i ed ot her s i n t he meant i me. He woul d t hen r et ur n,

and be admi t t ed t o t he Lor d' s Supper , and t each hi s peopl e

t he knowl edge he has acqui r ed. He seems i ncapabl e of put -

t i ng t hem away. He f eel s so at t ached t o t hem, and i ndeed

we, t oo, f eel much at t ached t o most of t hem. They ar e our

best schol ar s, our const ant f r i ends. We ear nest l y pr ay t hat

t hey, t oo, may be enl i ght ened by t he Spi r i t of Gi od. "

54 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

dr ought cont i nued, and not onl y t he men, but women

and chi l dr en, wer e scat t er ed over t he count r y i n

sear ch of r oot s, cat er pi l l ar s, or what ever woul d keep

l i f e i n t hem. Mr s. Li vi ngst one' s chi l dr en and sew-

i ng cl asses, number i ng each one hundr ed at one t i me,

had di sappear ed. Ther e was not hi ng t o keep t hem

at home, so i n Apr i l , 1850, accompani ed now by hi s

wi f e and t hr ee chi l dr en, and by Sechel e, he st ar t ed

agai n f or t he nor t h. * Sechel e l ef t hi m at t he f or d

* The bl ack r hi nocer os i s one of t he most danger ous of t he

wi l d beast s of Af r i ca, and t r avel l er s st and i n gr eat awe of i t .

The cour age of Dn. Li vi ngst one i n exposi ng hi msel f t o t he

r i sk of such ani mal s on t hi s mi ssi onar y t our was none t he

l ess t hat he hi msel f says not a wor d r egar di ng i t ; but such

cour age was const ant l y shown by hi m. The f ol l owi ng i n-

st ances ar e gi ven on t he aut hor i t y of Dr . Mof f at as sampl es

of what was habi t ual t o Dr . Li vi ngst one i n t he per f or mance

of hi s dut y:

I n goi ng t hr ough a wood, a par t y of hunt er s wer e st ar t l ed

by t he appear ance of a bl ack r hi nocer os. The f ur i ous beast

dashed at t he wagon, and dr ove hi s hor n i nt o t he bowel s of

t he dr i ver , i nf l i ct i ng a f r i ght f ul wound. A messenger was

despat ched i n t he gr eat est hast e f or Dr . Li vi ngst one, whose

house was ei ght or t en mi l es di st ant . The messenger i n hi s

eager ness r an t he whol e way. Li vi ngst one' s f r i ends wer e

hor r or - st r uck at t he i dea of hi s r i di ng t hr ough t he wood at

ni ght , exposed t o t he r hi nocer os and ot her deadl y beast s.

" No, no; you must not t hi nk of i t , Li vi ngst one; i t i s cer t ai n

deat h. " Li vi ngst one bel i eved i t was a Chr i st i an dut y t o t r y t o

save t he poor f el l ow' s l i f e, and he r esol ved t o go, happen what

mi ght . Mount i ng hi s hor se, he r ode t o t he scene of t he acci -

dent . The man had di ed, and t he wagon had l ef t , so t hat

t her e was not hi ng f or Li vi ngst one but t o r et ur n and r un t he

r i sk of t he f or est anew, wi t hout even t he hope t hat he mi ght

be usef ul i n savi ng l i f e.

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 55

Page 36 of 182

vi t he Zouga. Far t her on t hey hear d of an Enghsh

^* ar t y i n di st r ess, and hast ened si xt y mi l es out of

t hei r way t o ai d t hem. They f ound t hem down wi t h

f ever , of whi ch Mr . Ri der , t he ar t i st of t he par t y,

was al r eady dead. The r est r ecover ed under Li v-

i ngst one' s t r eat ment ; but af t er he had j ust managed

t o t ake t hem f or a paddl e i n t he l ake, i n whi ch t hey

pl ayed l i ke duckl i ngs, t wo of hi s chi l dr en and al l hi s

ser vant s wer e at t acked. Agai n he r el uct ant l y t ur ned

homewar d, and met Oswel l on hi s way f r om t he

Cape t o keep hi s pr omi se. I t was t oo l at e, and

Oswel l t ur ned t o hi s el ephant - hunt i ng. Li vi ngst one

r et ur ned t o Kol obeng, wher e hi s wi f e was conf i ned

of a daught er , who di ed of an epi demi c af t er si x

weeks ; and af t er war d t hey went t o Kur uman t o r e-

cr ui t . Her e he hear d f r om hi s f r i end St eel e t hat t he

Royal Geogr aphi cal Soci et y had vot ed hi m t went y-

f i ve gui neas f or t he di scover y of Lake Ngami . " I t

i s f r om t he Queen, ' ' he wr ot e home. * ' You must be

ver y l oyal , al l of you. Oh, you Radi cal s, don' t be

Anot her t i me, when he and a br ot her mi ssi onar y wer e on a

t our a l ong way f r om home, a messenger came t o t el l hi s

compani on t hat one of hi s chi l dr en was al ar mi ngl y i l l . I t

was but nat ur al f or hi m t o desi r e Li vi ngst one t o go back

wi t h hi m. The way l ay over a r oad i nf est ed by l i ons. Li v -

i ngst one' s l i f e woul d be i n danger ; mor eover , as we have

seen, he was i nt ensel y desi r ous t o exami ne t he f ossi l bones

at t he pl ace. But when hi s f r i end expr essed t he desi r e f or

hi m t o go, he went wi t hout hesi t at i on. Hi s f i r m bel i ef i n

Pr ovi dence sust ai ned hi m i n t hese as i n so many ot her dan-

ger s.

§6 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t hi nki ng i t came out of your pocket s. Long l i ve

Vi ct or i a ! ' ' *

Sebi t uane had now hear d of t he at t empt s t o r each

hi m, and sent pr esent s of cat t l e t o Sechel e and t he

* But Li vi ngst one was convi nced t hat t her e must be a

, heal t hi er spot t o t he nor t h. Wr i t i ng t o Mr . Wat t ( i 8t h

August , 1850) , he not onl y expr esses t hi s convi ct i on, but

gi ves t he gr ound on whi ch i t r est ed. The ext r act whi ch we

subj oi n gi ves a gl i mpse of t he sagaci t y t hat f r om appar ent l y

l i t t l e t hi ngs dr ew gr eat concl usi ons ; but mor e t han t hat , i t

i ndi cat es t he bi r t h of t he gr eat i dea t hat domi nat ed t he next

per i od of Li vi ngst one' s l i f e — t he desi r e and det er mi nat i on t o

f i nd a passage t o t he sea, ei t her on t he east or t he west coast :

" A mor e sal ubr i ous cl i mat e must exi st f ar t her up t o t he

nor t h, and t hat t he count r y i s hi gher , seems evi dent f r om t he

f act ment i oned by t he Bakoba, t hat t he wat er of t he Teoge,

t he r i ver t hat f al l s i nt o t he Ngami at t he nor t hwest poi nt

of i t , f l ows wi t h gr eat r api di t y. Canoes ascendi ng, punt al l

t he way, and t he men must hol d on by r eeds i n or der t o pr e-

vent t hei r bei ng car r i ed down by t he cur r ent . Lar ge t r ees,

spr i ng- bucks and ot her ant el opes ar e somet i mes br ought down

by i t . Do you wonder at my pr essi ng on i n t he way we have

done? The Bechuana mi ssi on has been car r i ed on i n a cul - de-

Page 37 of 182

sac. I t r i ed t o br eak t hr ough by goi ng among t he East er n

t r i bes, but t he Boer s shut up t hat f i el d. A Fr ench mi ssi onar y,

Mr . Fr edoux, of Mot i t o, t r i ed t o f ol l ow on my t r ai l t o t he

Bamangwat o, but was t ur ned back by a par t y of ar med Boer s.

When we bur st t hr ough t he bar r i er on t he nor t h, i t appear ed

ver y pl ai n t hat no mi ssi on coul d be successf ul t her e, unl ess

we coul d get a wel l - wat er ed count r y l eavi ng a passage t o t he

sea on ei t her t he east or west coast . Thi s pr oj ect I am al most

af r ai d t o meet , but not hi ng el se wi l l do. I i nt end ( d. v. ) t o go

i n next year and r emai n a t wel vemont h. My wi f e, poor soul —

I pi t y her ! — pr oposed t o l et me go f or t hat t i me whi l e she

r emai ned at Kol obeng. You wi l l pr ay f or us bot h dur i ng t hat

per i od. "

KOLOBENG- LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 57

chi ef s on t he l ake who had hi t her t o been host i l e, and

a war m i nvi t at i on t o Li vi ngst one. The envoys

came t o Sechel e whi l e Li vi ngst one was st i l l at Kur u-

man, and Sechel e al l owed t hem t o r et ur n wi t hout

i nf or mi ng hi m. Had t hey been det ai ned t o escor t

t he par t y t he suf f er i ngs on t he t hi r d j our ney mi ght

have been spar ed.

I n Apr i l , 185 1, he st ar t ed once mor e wi t h wi f e

and chi l dr en, and wi t h t he i nt ent i on of set t l i ng i n

Sebi t uane' s count r y i f he coul d f i nd a heal t hy st at i on.

Oswel l was agai n wi t h hi m, and goi ng ahead wi t h

hi s men, dug wel l s f or t he par t y i n t he wagons. Al l

went wel l whi l e t hey f ol l owed t he ol d r out e, whi ch

t hey di d t o t he nei ghbor hood of t he l ake, af t er whi ch

t hey had t o cr oss a deser t t r act , t he dr i est t hey had

ever met wi t h, i n whi ch Shobo, t hei r Bushman gui de,

l ost hi s way. * ' He woul d si t down i n t he pat h and

say, ^ No wat er , al l count r y onl y — Shobo sl eeps — he

br eaks down — count r y onl y. ' Upon t hi s he woul d

cool l y cur l hi msel f up, and was soon wr apped i n

sl umber . On t he mor ni ng of t he f our t h day he van-

i shed al t oget her . " They f ol l owed, came on a r hi -

nocer os' t r ai l , and saw some bi r ds. Ther e t hey un-

yoked t he oxen, who r ushed of f t o t he west . Next

mor ni ng t he suppl y of wat er i n t he wagons was al l

but spent . ' Tt was a bi t t er l y anxi ous t i me, and t he

l ess t her e was t he mor e t hi r st y t he l i t t l e r ogues be-

came. The i dea of t hei r per i shi ng bef or e our eyes

was t er r i bl e. I t woul d have al most been a r el i ef t o

58 nt E LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

me t o have been r epr oached as bei ng t he ent i r e

cause; but not one syl l abl e of upbr ai di ng was ut t er ed

by t hei r mot her , t hough t he t ear f ul eye t ol d t he

i agony wi t hi n. I n t he af t er noon of t he f i f t h day, t o

^ our i nexpr essi bl e r el i ef , some of t he men r et ur ned

wi t h a suppl y of t he f l ui d, of whi ch we had never

f el t t he t r ue val ue. . . o Shobo had f ound hi s

way t o t he r i ver Mababe, and appear ed when we

came t o t he r i ver at t he head of a par t y. As he

wi shed t o show hi s i mpor t ance bef or e hi s f r i ends, he

wal ked up and or der ed our whol e caval cade t o hal t ,

Page 38 of 182

and br i ng out f i r e and t obacco. We st opped t o ad-

mi r e t he act i ng, and t hough he had l ef t us i n t he

l ur ch, we al l l i ked t hi s f i ne speci men of t hat wonder -

f ul peopl e, t he Bushmen. " No bet t er speci men

coul d be f ound t han t hi s, of t he l ong- suf f er i ng and

char i t y whi ch car r i ed hi m saf el y t hr ough al l hi s

Af r i can wander i ngs. " What a wonder f ul peopl e

t he Bushmen ar e ! " hi s Jour nal r uns ; " al ways mer r y

and l aughi ng, and never t el l i ng l i es l i ke t he Bechu-

ana. They have mor e appear ance of wor shi p t han

any of t he Bechuana. When wi l l t hese dwel l er s i n

t he wi l der ness bow down bef or e t hei r Lor d ? I of t en

wi shed I knew t hei r l anguage, but never mor e t han

when we t r avel ed wi t h our Bushman gui de,

Shobo. " *

* Li vi ngst one had gi ven a f ai r t r i al t o t he expei r i ment of

t r avel l i ng al ong wi t h hi s f ami l y. I n one of hi s l et t er s at t hi s

t i me he speaks of t he ext r aor di nar y pai n caused by t he mos -

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBEZI . 69

Oswel l and Li vi ngst one now went ahead of t hei r

par t y, and f ound Sebi t uane, who had come down t o

meet t hem on an i sl and. Al l hi s pr i nci pal men wer e

wi t h hi m. He was about f or t y- f i ve, t al l , wi r y, of

ol i ve compl exi on, cool and col l ect ed i n manner , and

mor e f r ank t han any chi ef Li vi ngst one ever met ; t he

gr eat est war r i or i n Cent r al Af r i ca, and al ways l ed

hi s men i nt o bat t l e hi msel f . He gave t hem f ood,

and pr epar ed ski ns of oxen as sof t as cl ot h t o sl eep

on, and next mor ni ng was si t t i ng by t hei r f i r e bef or e

t he dawn.

They accompani ed hi m t o hi s home, l i vi ng wi t h

hi m on t he way, and hear i ng t he st or y of hi s event -

f ul l i f e. He now r ul ed over al l t he t r i bes of an i m-

mense t r act of count r y, as benevol ent i n peace as he

had been cour ageous i n war . " He had t he ar t of

gai ni ng t he af f ect i ons bot h of hi s own peopl e and

st r anger s. . . , When poor men came t o t r ade

he woul d go al ong t o t hem, t al k wi t h t hem, and f eed

t hem. Thus he knew al l t hat happened i n t he coun-

. qui t oes of t hose par t s, and of hi s chi l dr en bei ng so cover ed

wi t h t hei r bi t es, t hat not a squar e i nch of whol e ski n was t o

be f ound on t hei r bodi es. I t i s no wonder t hat he gave up

t he i dea of car r yi ng t hem wi t h hi m i n t he mor e ext ended

j our ney he was now cont empl at i ng. He coul d not l eave t hem

at Kol obeng, exposed t o t he r ai ds of t he Boer s; t o Kur uman

t her e wer e al so i nvi nci bl e obj ect i ons; t he onl y possi bl e pl an

was t o send t hem t o Engl and, t hough he hoped t hat when

he got set t l ed i n some sui t abl e par t of Sebi t uane' s domi ni ons,

wi t h a; f r ee r oad t o t he sea, t hey woul d r et ur n t o hi m, and

hel p hi m t o br i ng t he peopl e t o Chr i st .

60 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t r y. He never al l owed a par t y of st r anger s t o go

away wi t hout gi vi ng a pr esent t o ever y one, ser vant s

Page 39 of 182

and al l . Thus hi s pr ai ses w^ er e sounded f ar and

wi de. * He has a hear t ! He i s wi se/ wer e t he ex-

pr essi ons we hear d bef or e we saw hi m. "

He of f er ed a set t l ement i n any par t of hi s count r y,

and, had he l i ved, t he whol e cour se of Li vi ngst one' s

car eer mi ght have been changed. But Sebi t uane

si ckened of i nf l ammat i on of t he l ungs. Li vi ngst one

f ear ed t o t r eat hi m medi cal l y, and appeal ed t o hi s

nat i ve doct or s. " Your f ear i s pr udent and wi se, "

t hey sai d; * * t he peopl e woul d bl ame you. " " I vi si t ed

hi m i n company wi t h my l i t t l e boy Rober t on t he

Sunday af t er noon on whi ch he di ed. ' Come near , '

sai d Sebi t uane, * and see i f I am any l onger a man.

I am done. ' I vent ur ed t o assent , and added a si ngl e

sent ence r egar di ng hope af t er deat h. ' Why do you

speak of deat h ?' sai d one of a r el ay of f r esh doct or s ;

' Sebi t uane wi l l never di e. ' I r ose t o depar t , when he

r ai sed hi msel f up a l i t t l e, cal l ed a ser vant , and sai d,

' Take Rober t t o Manuku' ( one of hi s wi ves) , ' and

t el l her t o gi ve hi m some mi l k. ' These wer e t he l ast

wor ds of Sebi t uane. . « . He was deci dedl y t he

best speci men of a nat i ve chi ef I ever met . I was

never so much gr i eved at t he l oss of a bl ack man. " *

* I n hi s Jour nal , Li vi ngst one gi ves way t o hi s f eel i ngs as he

ver y sel dom al l owed hi msel f t o do. Hi s wor ds br i ng t o mi nd

Davi d' s l ament f or Jonat han or f or Absal om, al t hough he had

known Sebi t uane l ess t han a mont h, and he was one of t he

KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI - THE ZAMBEZI . 61

Hi s daught er Mamochi shane succeeded, and was

equal l y f r i endl y. Oswel l and Li vi ngst one made a

j our ney of one hundr ed and t hi r t y mi l es t o t he

nor t heast at t he end of June and di scover ed t he Zam-

besi , al r eady upwar d of t hr ee hundr ed yar ds br oad,

hi t her t o supposed t o r i se f ar t o t he east , but f ound

no heal t hy spot f or set t l ement , so r et ur ned f or t he

l ast t i me t o Kol obeng. *

r ace whom many Boer s and sl ave- st eal er s r egar ded as havi ng

no soul s:

" Poor Sebi t uane, my hear t bl eeds f or t hee ; and what woul d

I not do f or t hee now? I wi l l weep f or t hee t i l l t he day of

my deat h. Li t t l e di dst t hou t hi nk when, i n t he vi si t of t he

whi t e man, t hou sawest t he l ong- cher i shed desi r es of year s

accompl i shed, t hat t he sent ence of deat h had gone f or t h !

Thou t hought est t hat t hou shoul dst pr ocur e a weapon f r om

t he whi t e man whi ch woul d be a shi el d f r om t he at t acks of t he

f i er ce Mat abel e ; but a mor e deadl y dar t t han t hei r s was ai med

at t hee; and t hough t hou coul dst wel l war d of f a dar t — none

ever bet t er — t hou di dst not see t hat of t he ki ng of t er r or s.

I wi l l weep f or t hee, my br ot her , and I wi l l cast f or t h my

sor r ows i n despai r f or t hy condi t i on ! But I know t hat t hou

wi l t r ecei ve no i nj ust i ce whi t her t hou ar e gone; ' Shal l not t he

Judge of al l t he ear t h do r i ght ?' I l eave t hee t o Hi m. Al as!

al as ! Sebi t uane. I mi ght have sai d mor e t o hi m. God f or -

gi ve me. Fr ee me f r om bl ood- gui l t i ness. I f I had sai d mor e

Page 40 of 182

of deat h I mi ght have been suspect ed as havi ng f or eseen t he

event , and as gui l t y of bewi t chi ng hi m. I mi ght have r ecom-

mended Jesus and hi s gr eat at onement mor e. I t i s, however ,

ver y di f f i cul t t o br eak t hr ough t he t hi ck cr ust of i gnor ance

whi ch envel ops t hei r mi nds. "

* Whi l e Kol obeng was Li vi ngst one' s headquar t er s, a new

t r oubl e r ose upon t he mi ssi on hor i zon. The Makol ol o ( as

Sebi t uane' s peopl e wer e cal l ed) began t o pr act i ce t he sl ave-

t r ade. I t ar ose si mpl y f r om t hei r desi r e t o possess guns.

62 THE LI FE OP DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Li vi ngst one' s mi nd was now made up. Hi s f am-

i l y coul d not st ay at Kol obeng. He had f ound no

new st at i on t o t he nor t h. He woul d send t hem t o

Engl and, whi l e he r et ur ned hi msel f t o sear ch f or a

heal t hy di st r i ct i n t he i nt er i or , wi t h a pat h ei t her t o

t he east or west coast . Wi t h t hi s vi ew he st ar t ed

f or Cape Town i n Apr i l , 1852, and passed t hr ough

t he cent r e of t he col ony i n t he t went i et h mont h of a

Caf f r e war . " Those who per i odi cal l y pay enor mous

sums f or t hese i ngl or i ous af f ai r s may l i ke t o know

t hat our l i t t l e, unpr ot ect ed par t y coul d t r avel wi t h as

l i t t l e danger as i f we had been i n Engl and. Wher e

does t he money go, and who has benef i t ed by t hi s

bl ood and t r easur e expended ?"

He ar r i ved at Cape Town, af t er el even year s of

For ei ght ol d musket s t hey had gi ven t o a nei ghbor i ng t r i be

ei ght boys, t hat had been t aken f r om t hei r enemi es i n war ,

bei ng t he onl y ar t i cl e f or whi ch t he guns coul d be got . Soon

af t er , i n a f r ay agai nst anot her t r i be, t wo hundr ed capt i ves

wer e t aken, and, on r et ur ni ng, t he Makol ol o met some Ar ab

t r ader s f r om Zanzi bar , who f or t hr ee musket s r ecei ved about

t hi r t y of t hei r capt i ves.

Wr i t i ng" t o t he Di r ect or s ( Oct ober , 1851) , he says:

" You wi l l see by t he accompanyi ng sket ch- map what an

i mmense r egi on God i n hi s gr ace has opened up. I f we can

ent er i n and f or m a set t l ement , we shal l be abl e i n t he cour se

of a ver y f ew year s t o put a st op t o t he sl ave- t r ade i n t hat

quar t er . I t i s pr obabl e t hat t he mer e suppl y of Engl i sh manu-

f act ur er s on Sebi t uane' s par t wi l l ef f ect t hi s, f or t hey di d not

l i ke t he sl ave- t r ade, and pr omi sed t o abst ai n. I t hi nk i t wi l l

be i mpossi bl e t o make a f ai r commencement unl ess I can

secur e t wo year s devoi d of f ami l y car es. I shal l be obl i ged

KOLOBENG^ LAKE NGAMI - TME ZAMBEZI . 63

mi ssi onar y l i f e, t o f i nd hi msel f an obj ect of suspi ci on

t o t he aut hor i t i es and hi s br et hr en. He had al r eady

ant i ci pat ed hi s whol e sal ar y ( i oo) f or 1852 and

hal f t hat of 1853. Happi l y , Os wel l was wi t h hi m,

and " made al l c omf or t abl e" f i nanc i al l y , on t he pl ea

t hat Li v i ngs t one had as good a r i ght as he t o t he

money dr awn f r om t he pr es er v es on hi s es t at e.

He had wr i t t en wi t h per f ec t f r ank nes s t o hi s

Page 41 of 182

Di r ect or s as t o hi s i nt ent i ons. " Consi der t he mul t i -

t udes t hat have been br ought t o l i ght by t he Pr ovi -

dence of God i n t he count r y of Sebi t uane. , . ,

Not hi ng but a st r ong convi ct i on t hat t he st ep wi l l

l ead t o t he gl or y of Chr i st woul d make me or phani ze

t o go sout hwar d, per haps t o t he Cape, t o have my uvul a

exci sed and my ar m mended ( t he l at t er , i f i t can be done,

onl y) . I t has occur r ed t o me t hat , as we must send our chi l -

dr en t o Engl and, i t woul d be no gr eat addi t i onal expense t o

send t hem now al ong wi t h t hei r mot her . Thi s ar r angement

woul d enabl e me t o pr oceed, and devot e about t wO' or per haps

t hr ee year s t o t hi s new r egi on ; but I must beg your sanct i on,

and i f you pl ease l et i t be gi ven or wi t hhel d as soon as you

can conveni ent l y, so t hat i t mi ght meet me at t he Cape. To

or phani ze my chi l dr en wi l l be l i ke t ear i ng out my bowel s, but

when I can f i nd t i me t o wr i t e you f ul l y you wi l l per cei ve i t i s

t he onl y way, except gi vi ng up t hat r egi on al t oget her .

" Kur uman wi l l not answer as a r esi dence, nor yet t he

Col ony. I f I wer e t o f ol l ow my own i ncl i nat i ons, t hey woul d

l ead me t o set t l e down qui et l y wi t h t he Bakwai ns, or some

ot her smal l t r i be, and devot e some of my t i me t o my chi l dr en ;

but Pr ovi dence seems t o cal l me t o t he r egi ons beyond, and

i f I l eave t hem anywher e i n t hi s count r y, i t wi l l be t o l et t hem

become heat hens. I f you t hi nk i t r i ght t o suppor t t hem, I

bel i eve my par ent s i n Scot l and woul d at t end t o t hem ot her -

wi se. "

64 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

my chi l dr en. Even now my bowel s year n over

t hem. They wi l l f or get me; but I hope when t he

day of t r i al comes I shal l not be f ound a mor e sor r y

sol di er t han t hose who ser ve an ear t hl y sover ei gn.

Shoul d you not f eel your sel f j ust i f i ed i n i ncur r i ng

t he expense of t hei r suppor t i n Engl and, I shal l f eel

cal l ed upon t o r enounce t he hope of car r yi ng t he

Gospel i nt o t hat count r y. But st ay. I am not sur e.

So power f ul l y a. m I convi nced i t i s t he wi l l of our

Lor d I shoul d, I wi l l go, no mat t er who opposes ; but

f r om you I expect not hi ng but encour agement . I

know you wi sh as ar dent l y as I can t hat al l t he wor l d

may be f i l l ed wi t h t he gl or y of t he Lor d. I f eel r e-

l i eved when I l ay t he whol e case bef or e you. " Mr s.

Li vi ngst one and t he f our chi l dr en sai l ed f or Engl and

on Apr i l 23, 1852.

CHAPTER I V.

UNYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO.

1852- 53.

Li vi ngst one was now r eady t o st ar t on t he j our -

ney whi ch r esul t ed i n t he openi ng of r out es f r om

Cent r al Af r i ca t o t he west and east coast s, and t he

di scover y of t he Vi ct or i a Fal l s ; but t he way was st i l l

beset wi t h di f f i cul t i es. The Mi ssi onar y Soci et i es

wer e r egar ded as ' ' unpat r i ot i c" by t he aut hor i t i es at

t he Cape; and he, as t he most out spoken of cr i t i cs,

Page 42 of 182

and t he most uncompr omi si ng denouncer of t he

sl ave- t r ade and champi on of t he nat i ves, came i n f or

a doubl e shar e of t hei r suspi ci on. On t he ot her

hand, hi s br et hr en gave hi m onl y a hal f - hear t ed sup-

por t , and doubt ed hi s or t hodoxy. He f ound gr eat

di f f i cul t y even i n pr ocur i ng ammuni t i on. A count r y

post mast er , whom he had accused of over char gi ng,

t hr eat ened an act i on at t he l ast moment , whi ch he

compr omi sed r at her t han be det ai ned l onger . As i t

was, he had ant i ci pat ed hi s meagr e sal ar y by mor e

t han a year , and had t o be cont ent wi t h ver y i nf er i or

oxen, and a wagon whi ch r equi r ed const ant mendi ng

t hr oughout t he j our ney. Happi l y, however , t he

del ay at t he Cape enabl ed hi m t o have hi s uvul a,

65

QQ THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

whi ch had been t r oubl i ng hi m f or year s, exci sed, and

t o r enew hi s ast r onomi cal st udi es wi t h hi s f r i end t he

Ast r onomer - Royal ( Si r T. ^ l acl ear ) , so t hat he was

abl e t o l ay down t he exact geogr aphi cal posi t i ons i n

al l hi s subsequent j our neys. " He coul d t ake t he

compl et e l unar obser vat i ons and al t i t udes f or t i me i n

f i f t een mi nut es. . . . I say what t hat man has

done i s unpr ecedent ed. . . . You coul d go t o

any poi nt acr oss t he ent i r e cont i nent al ong Li v -

i ngst one' s t r ack and f eel cer t ai n of your posi -

t i on. . . . Hi s ar e t he f i nest speci mens of sound

geogr aphi cal obser vat i on I have ever met wi t h, " was

Si r Thomas' t est i mony f our year s l at er , when t he

gr eat j our ney was f i ni shed. * On June 8, 1852, t hen,

* 0n t he 23d Apr i l , 1852, Mr s. Li vi ngst one and t he f our

chi l dr en sai l ed f r om Cape Town f or Engl and. The sendi ng

of hi s chi l dr en t o be br ought up by ot her s was a ver y gr eat

t r i al , and Dr . Li vi ngst one sei zed t he oppor t uni t y t o i mpr ess

on t he Di r ect or s t hat t hose by whom mi ssi onar i es wer e sent

out had a gr eat dut y t o t he chi l dr en whom t hei r par ent s wer e

compel l ed t o send away. Hi s f ami l y wer e much i n hi s

t hought s ; he f ound some r el i ef i n wr i t i ng by ever y mai l . Hi s

l et t er s t o hi s wi f e ar e t oo sacr ed t o be spr ead bef or e t he pub-

l i c; we conf i ne our sel ves t o a si ngl e ext r act , t o show over

what a host of suppr essed emot i ons he had t o mar ch i n t hi s

expedi t i on :

" Cape Town, 5^ / 1 May, 1852. — My Dear est Mar y — How I

mi ss you now, and t he chi l dr en ! My hear t year ns i ncessant h^

over you. How many t hought s of t he past cr owd i nt o my

mi nd I I f eel as i f I w^ oul d t r eat you al l much mor e t ender l y

and l ovi ngl y t han ever . You have been a gr eat bl essi ng t o

me. You at t ended t o my comf or t i n many, many ways. May

God bl ess you f or al l your ki ndnesses ! I see no f ace now t o

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 67

he at l ast got away, t aki ng wi t h hi m a Mr . Fl emi ng,

t he agent of hi s f r i end, Mr . Rut her f or d, a Cape mer -

chant , i n t he hope of by degr ees subst i t ut i ng l egi t i -

Page 43 of 182

mat e t r af f i c f or t hat i n sl aves.

The heavy Cape wagon wi t h i t s t en poor oxen

dr agged heavi l y nor t hwar d. Li vi ngst one had so

l oaded hi msel f wi t h par cel s f or st at i ons up count r y,

and hi s wagon and t eam wer e so i nf er i or , t hat i t was

not t i l l Sept ember t hat he r eached Kur uman. Her e

he was det ai ned by t he br eaki ng down of a wheel .

The acci dent was a happy one, f or i n t hese same days

t he st or m whi ch had been so l ong t hr eat eni ng f r om

t he Tr ansvaal br oke over t he Bakwai n count r y.

Af t er Li vi ngst one' s depar t ur e f or t he Cape, Sechel e

had sent al l hi s chi l dr en but t wo t o Kur uman, t o Dr .

be compar ed wi t h t hat sunbur nt one whi ch has so of t en

gr eet ed me wi t h i t s ki nd l ooks. Let us do our dut y t o our

Savi our , and we shal l meet agai n. I wi sh t hat t i me wer e

now. You may r ead t he l et t er s over agai n whi ch I wr ot e at

Mabot sa, t he sweet t i me you know. As I t ol d you bef or e, I

t el l you agai n, t hey ar e t r ue, t r ue ; t her e i s not a bi t of hypoc -

r i sy i n t hem. I never show al l my f eel i ngs ; but I can say

t r ul y, my dear est , t hat I l oved you when I mar r i ed you, and

t he l onger I l i ved wi t h you, I l oved you t he bet t er

Let us do our dut y t o Chr i st , and He wi l l br i ng us t hr ough

t he wor l d wi t h honor and usef ul ness. He i s our r ef uge and

hi gh t ower ; l et us t r ust i n Hi m at al l t i mes, and i n al l ci r cum-

st ances. Love Hi m mor e and mor e, and di f f use Hi s l ove

among t he chi l dr en. Take t hem al l ar ound you, and ki ss

t hem f or me. Tel l t hem I have l ef t t hem f or t he l ove oi

Jesus, and t hey must l ove Hi m, t oo, and avoi d si n, f or t hat

di spl eases Jesus. I shal l be del i ght ed t o hear of you al l saf e

i n Engl and. . . . "

68 THE LI FZ OF D- WTD LmNGSTOXR

Mof f at ' s schc^ oL Now, whi l e Li vi ngst one was at

wor k on hi s wagon- wheel , Masabel e, Sechel e' s wi f e,

hf onght down a l et t er f r om her husband t o t he Doc -

t or . " Fr i end oi my hear t ' s l ove, " i t r an, " and of al l

t he oonf i dence of my hear t , I am Sechel e. I am

mi dcMi e by t he Boer s, who at t acked me, t hough I

f aaTe no gui l t wi t h t hem. They demanded t hat I

shoul d be i n t hei r ki ngdom, and I r ef used- They

demanded t hat I shoul d pr event t he Engl i sh and

( ki quas f r om passi ng. I r q) l i ed, ^ These ar e my

f r i ends, and I can pr event no one. ' They came on

Sat ur day, and I besought t l i em not t o f i ght on Sun-

day, and t hey assent ed- They began on Monday

mor ni ng at t wi l i ght , and f i r ed wi t h al l t hdr mi ght ,

and bur ned t he t own wi t h f i r e, and scat t er ed us.

They kUkd si xt y of my peopl e, and capt ur ed women

and dnl dr en and moL They t ook al l t he cat t l e and

al l t he goods of t he Bakwai ns : and t he house of Li v -

i ngst cHi e t hey pl t mder ed, t aki ng away al l hi s goods.

AQ t he goods of t he hunt er s" ( Oswel l and ot her s)

" wer e bur nt , and of t he Boer s wer e ki l l ed t went y -

dght . Yes, my bel oved f r i oi d, now my wi f e goes

t o see t i i e chi l dr en, and Kobus Har wi l l convey her

t o yon. I am Sedi el e, t he son of Mochoasel e. "

" The Boer s, " Li vi ngst one wr i t es t o hi s wi f e some

Page 44 of 182

daj r s l at er , " gut t ed our house. They br ought f our

wagi ms down, and t ook away so^ t abl e, bed, al l t he

cr oe k ei y, yoor de^ ( I hope i t had not hi ng i n i t .

Have you t he l et t er s?) , smashed t he wooden chai r s.

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 69

t ook away t he i r on ones, t or e out t he l eai r es of aH t he

books and scat t er ed t hem i n f r ont of t l i c honse;

smashed t he medi ci ne bot t l es, wi ndows, oven door ;

t ook away t he smi t h- bel l ows, anvi l , al l t he t ool s^

t hr ee com- mi l l s, a bag of cof f ee f or wi i i di I pai d 6,

and l ot s of c o t ee, t ea, s ugar , wf ai di Ae gendenKn

who went nor t h l ef t ; t ook al l ot i r c at de, and Panf s

and Mabal we' s , . . . They s et f i r e t o t he t own,

and t he heat f or c ed t he women t o f l y , and t he men

t o huddl e t oget her on t he s mal l hi l l i n Ac mi ddl e of

t he t own- The s mc ^ c e pr es ent ed t hem s eei ng t he

Boer s , and t he c annon k i l l ed s i x t y Bak wai ns . The

Boer s t hen c ame near t o k i l l and des t r oy t hem al l ;

but t he Bak wai ns k i l l ed t hi r t y - f i v e and many hor s es .

They f ought t he whol e day ; but t he Boer s c onl d not

di s l odge t hem. They s t opped f i r i ng at ni ght , and

t he Bak wai ns r et i r ed on ac c ount of hav i ng no

wat er . . . . Al l t he c om i s bur ned. Par t i es

went out and bt u^ ed Bangwak et s e, and s wept of f al l

t he c at t l e. Sebube' s c ^ - l e ^ r e al l gone. Al l t he

Bak at l a c at t l e gone. Xei i her Bangwak et s e z l z t

Bak at l a f i r ed a s hoL Al l t he c om bur ned of al l z hi i

:

t r i bes . Ev er y t hi ng edi bl e t ak en f r om t hem. How

wi n t hey l i v e? . . . They i nen ex pr es s ed a

wi s h t o get hol d of me. I wai t her e a l i t t l e i n or der

t o get i nf or mat i on when t he pat h i s c l ear . Ki nd

Pr ov i denc e pr ev ent ed me f r om f al l i ng i nt o t he - er j

t hi c k of i t God wi H pr es er v e me s t i f l . Hr

wor k f or me t o do. " ' TTi i nk , " he wr i t es t o hi ^

70 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

f r i end Wat t , " of a bi g, f at Boer es s dr i nk i ng c of f ee

out of my k et t l e, and t hen t hr owi ng her t al l owy c or -

por ei t y on my s of a, or k eepi ng her needl es i n my

wi f e' s wr i t i ng- des k . Ugh! and t hen t hi nk of f ool -

i s h J ohn Bul l pay i ng s o many t hous ands a y ear f or

t he s uppr es s i on of t h^ s l av e- t r ade and al l owi ng c om-

mi s s i ons ev en t o mak e t r eat i es wi t h t he Boer s , who

car r y i t on. The Boer s ar e mad wi t h r age agai ns t

me bec aus e my peopl e f ought br av el y . I t was I , t hey

t hi nk , t hat t aught t hem t o s hoot Boer s . Fanc y y our

r ev er end f r i end t eac hi ng t he y oung i dea t o s hoot

Boer s , and pr ay i ng f or a bl es s i ng on t he wor k of hi s

hands ! "

Sec hel e, af t er a v ai n ef f or t t o get t o Engl and t o

l ay hi s c as e bef or e t he Queen, was hel ped bac k f r om

t he Cape by Engl i s h of f i c er s . He went bac k , and

gat her ed t he r emnant s of t he Bak wai ns , and ei ght

ot her t r i bes , r ound hi m, and bec ame mor e power f ul

t han bef or e t he s ac k of Kol obeng. Four y ear s l at er

Li v i ngs t one wr i t es : " Sec hel e has , t hough unbi dden

Page 45 of 182

by man, been t eac hi ng hi s own peopl e. I n f ac t , he

has been doi ng al l t hat I was pr ev ent ed f r om doi ng,

and I hav e been empl oy ed i n ex pl or i ng — ^ a wor k I

had no pr ev i ous i nt ent i on of per f or mi ng. I t hi nk

I s ee t he oper at i on of t he Uns een Hand i n al l t hi s . " *

* But whi l e he c oul d r el ax pl ay f ul l y at t he t hought of t he

des ol at i on at Kol obeng, he k new how t o mak e i t t he oc c as i on

l i k ewi s e of hi gh r es ol v es . The Boer s , as he wr ot e t he Di r ec -

t or s , wer e r es ol v ed t o s hut up t he i nt er i or . He was det er -

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 71

Li v i ngs t one was now mor e det er mi ned t han ev er

t o open out t he c ount r y t o t he nor t h. The mor e t he

Boer s t hr eat ened t o pur s ue on hor s ebac k , t he mor e

f i x ed was hi s r es ol v e; but t hes e t hr eat s , and t he

nei ghbor hood of Boer mar audi ng par t i es , added t o

t he di f f i c ul t y of hi s t as k by al ar mi ng t he nat i v es . I t

was not t i l l Nov ember 20t h t hat he and Fl emi ng

coul d get wagon- dr i v er s . At l as t s i x wer e hi r ed

who wer e r eady t o r i s k t he j our ney t o Li ny ant i .

" To be s ur e, t hey wer e t he wor s t pos s i bl e s pec i mens

of t hos e who i mbi be t he v i c es wi t hout t he v i r t ues of

Eur opeans ; but we had no c hoi c e, and wer e gl ad t o

get away on any t er ms . "

Gi v i ng t he Boer s a wi de ber t h, t hey t ook a r out e

t o t he wes t , ov er t he Kal ahar i des er t ; but ev en as i t

was , c ame on t he s k i r t s of a war bet ween t he Boer s

and Bar ol ongs . " A Caf f r e war i n s t age t he s ec -

ond, " he des c r i bes i t . " The t hi r d s t age i s when bot h

si des ar e equal l y wel l ar med and af r ai d of eac h ot her .

The f our t h, when t he Engl i s h t ak e up a quar r el not

t hei r own and t he Boer s s l i p out of t he f r ay . " The

Bak wai ns j oi ned t he Bar ol ongs , and " t he Boer s s ent

f our of t hei r number t o as k f or peac e. I was pr es -

ent and hear d t he c ondi t i ons . Sec hel e' s c hi l dr en

mus t be r es t or ed t o hi m. St r ong bodi es of ar med

mi ned, wi t h God' s hel p, t o open t he c ount r y . Ti me woul d

show whi c h woul d be mos t s uc c es s f ul i n r es ol ut i on — t hey or

he. To hi s br ot her - i n- l aw he wr ot e t hat he woul d open a

pat h t hr ough t he c ount r y , or per i s h,

72 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Bak wai ns oc c upi ed ev er y pas s i n t he hi l l s , and had

not t he f our ambas s ador s pr omi s ed muc h mor e t han

t hey per f or med, t hat day woul d hav e been t hei r l as t .

The Commandant Sc hol z had t ak en t he c hi l dr en of

Sec hel e t o be hi s own domes t i c s l av es . I s aw one of

t hem r et ur ned t o hi s mot her . He had been al l owed

t o r ol l i nt o t he f i r e, and t her e wer e t hr ee l ar ge, un-

bound s or es on hi s body . Hi s mot her and t he

women r ec ei v ed hi m wi t h f l oods of t ear s . I t ook

down t he names of s ome s c or es of boy s and gi r l s ,

Page 46 of 182

many of whom I knew t o be our schol ar s; but I

coul d not comf or t any of t he mot her s wi t h any hope

of t hei r r et ur n f r om capt i vi t y. "

The j our ney t o Li nyant i by t he new r out e was

ver y t r yi ng. Par t of t he count r y was f l ooded, and

t hey wer e wadi ng al l day, and f or ci ng t hei r way

t hr ough r eeds wi t h shar p edges " wi t h our hands al l

r aw and bl oody. " On emer gi ng f r om t he swamps,

" when wal ki ng bef or e t he wagon i n t he mor ni ng

t wi l i ght , I obser ved a l i oness about f i f t y yar ds f r om

me i n t he squat t i ng way t hey wal k when goi ng t o

spr i ng. She was f ol l owed by a ver y l ar ge l i on, but

seei ng t he wagon she t ur ned back. " *

* Two year s bef or e, he had been at Li nyant i wi t h Mr . Oswel l .

Many det ai l s of t he new j our ney ar e gi ven i n t he " Mi s -

si onar y Tr avel s, " whi ch i t i s unnecessar y t o r epeat . I t may

be enough t o st at e t hat he f ound t he count r y f l ooded, and

t hat on t he way i t was no unusual t hi ng f or hi m t o be wet al l

day, and t o wal k t hr ough swamps and wat er t hr ee or f our

f eet deep. Tr ees, t hor ns and r eeds of f er ed t r emendous r egi st -

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 73

I t r equi r ed al l hi s t act t o pr event gui des and ser -

vant s f r om deser t i ng. Ever y one but hi msel f was

at t acked by f ever . " I woul d l i ke, " says t he Jour nal ,

" t o devot e a por t i on of my l i f e t o t he di scover y of a

r emedy f or t hat t er r i bl e di sease, t he Af r i can f ever .

I woul d go i nt o t he par t s wher e i t pr evai l s most and

t r y t o di scover i f t he nat i ves have a r emedy f or i t .

I must make many i nqui r i es of t he r i ver peopl e i n

t hi s quar t er . " Agai n, i n anot her key : " Am I on my

way t o di e i n Sebi t uane' s count r y ? Have I seen t he

l ast of my wi f e and chi l dr en, l eavi ng t hi s f ai r wor l d

and knowi ng so l i t t l e of i t ?" Febr uar y 4t h : " I am

spar ed i n heal t h whi l e al l t he company hav^ been

at t acked by f ever . I f God has accept ed my ser vi ce,

my l i f e i s char med t i l l my wor k i s done. When

t hat i s f i ni shed, some si mpl e t hi ng wi l l gi ve me my

qui et us. Deat h i s a gl or i ous event t o one goi ng t o

Jesus. "

Thei r pr ogr ess was t edi ous beyond al l pr ecedent .

" We dug out sever al wel l s, and each t i me had t o

ance, and he and hi s peopl e must have pr esent ed a pi t i abl e

si ght when f or ci ng t hei r way t hr ough r eeds wi t h cl i t t i ng

edges. " Wi t h our own hands al l r aw and bl oody, and knees

t hr ough our t r ouser s, we at l engt h emer ged. " I t was a happy

t hought t o t ear hi s pocket - handker chi ef i nt o t wo par t s and t i e

t hem over hi s knees. " I r emember , " he says i n hi s Jour nal ,

r ef er r i ng t o l ast year ' s j our ney, " t he t oi l whi ch our f r i end

Oswel l endur ed on our account . He never spar ed hi msel f . "

I t i s not t o be supposed t hat hi s gui des wer e happy i n such a

mar ch; i t r equi r ed hi s t act st r et ched t o i t s ver y ut most t o

pr event t hem f r om t ur ni ng back.

74 THE Ll f E OF DaVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Page 47 of 182

wai t a day or t wo t i l l enough wat er f l owed i n t o

al l ow our cat t l e t o quench t hei r t hi r st . "

At l ast , however , at t he end of May, he r eached

t he Chobe r i ver and was kgai n amongst hi s f avor i t e

' Makol ol o. " He has dr opped f r om t he cl ouds, " t he

f i r st of t hem sai d. They t ook t he wagon t o pi eces,

and car r i ed i t acr oss on canoes l ashed t oget her , whi l e

t hey t hemsel ves swam and di ved amongst t he oxen

' ' mor e l i ke al l i gat or s t han men. " Sekel et u, son of

Sebi t uane, was now chi ef , hi s el der si st er Mamochi -

shane havi ng r esi gned i n di sgust at t he number of

husbands she had t o mai nt ai n as chi ef t ai ness. Poor

Mamochi shane ! af t er a shor t r ei gn of a f ew mont hs

she had r i sen i n t he assembl y and " addr essed her

br ot her wi t h a womanl y gush of t ear s. ' I have been

a chi ef onl y because my f at her wi shed i t . I woul d

al ways have pr ef er r ed t o be mar r i ed and have a f am-

i l y l i ke ot her women. You, Sekel et u, must be chi ef ,

and bui l d up our f at her ' s house. ' "

Sekel et u was ei ght een year s ol d, f i ve f eet seven

i nches i n hei ght , equal t o hi s f at her nei t her i n st at ur e

nor abi l i t y, but equal l y f r i endl y t o Li vi ngst one. He

sent ampl e suppl i es, and t he cour t - her al d t o wel come

t hem, who advanced l eapi ng and shout i ng at t he t op

of hi s voi ce, " Don' t I see t he whi t e man? Don' t I

see t he f at her of Sekel et u? We want sl eep. Gi ve

your son sl eep, my l or d. "

Si nce Li vi ngst one' s l ast vi si t t he hal f - cast e Por t u-

guese had appear ed f r om t he west , and al r eady a

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO.

t r af f i c i n sl aves was goi ng on, t he deal er s havi ng

gai ned a f oot i ng amongst t he Mambar i , a nei ghbor -

i ng t r i be ; and begun i nt r i gui ng wi t h Mpepe, anot her

son of Sebi t uane, a pr et ender t o t he chi ef t ai nshi p,

whi ch he hoped t o gai n by t he ai d of t hese new al l i es,

ar med wi t h guns. *

Li vi ngst one was sur pr i sed at t he cor di al i t y of hi s

r ecept i on by chi ef and peopl e. " God has t ouched

t hei r hear t s. I have used no undue i nf l uence. Ki nd-

ness shown has been appr eci at ed her e, whi l e much

gr eat er ki ndness shown t o t r i bes i n t he sout h has

r esul t ed i n t he bel i ef t hat we mi ssi onar i es must be

f ool s. ' * The f i r st wi sh of chi ef and peopl e was t o

obt ai n t he " gun medi ci ne. ' * They had got guns at

* I n t he pr ogr ess of t hei r j our ney t hey came t o t he t own

of t he f at her of Mpepe, wher e, most unexpect edl y, Li vi ng-

st one encount er ed a hor r i bl e scene. Mpepe' s f at her and an-

ot her headman wer e known t o have f avor ed t he pl an f or t he

mur der of Sekel et u, and wer e t her ef or e obj ect s of f ear t o t he

l at t er . When al l wer e met , and Mpepe' s f at her was ques -

t i oned why he di d not st op hi s son' s pr oceedi ngs, Sekel et u

suddenl y spr ang t o hi s f eet and gave t he t wo men i nt c cus -

t ody. Al l had been pl anned bef or ehand. For t hwi t h t hey

wer e l ed away, sur r ounded by Sekel et u' s war r i or s, al l dr eam

Page 48 of 182

of opposi t i on on t hei r par t bei ng as usel ess as i nt er f er ence

woul d have been on Li vi ngst one' s. Bef or e hi s eyes he saw

t hem hewn t o pi eces wi t h axes, and cast i nt o t he r i ver t o be

devour ed by t he al l i gat or s. Wi t hi n t wo hour s of t hei r ar r i val

t he whol e par t y had l ef t t he scene of t hi s shocki ng t r agedy,

Li vi ngst one bei ng so hor r i f i ed t hat he coul d not r emai n. He

di d hi s best t o show t he si n of bl ood- gui l t i ness, and br i ng

bef or e t he peopl e t he scene of t he Last Judgment , whi ch was

t he onl y t hi ng t hat seemed t o make any i mpr essi on.

76 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

l ast , but coul d not shoot — sur el y now hi s hear t

woul d war m t o t hem, and he woul d gi ve t hem t he

medi ci ne. ' ' But I coul d not t el l t hem a l i e. I

of f er ed t o show Sekel et u how t o shoot , and t hat was

al l t he medi ci ne I knew. " Af t er a shor t r est he

began t o make excur si ons wi t h Sekel et u t o expl or e

t he count r y r ound Li nyant i . I n t hese he was al -

ways enf or ci ng on hi s compani ons t he dut y of l i vi ng

peaceabl y wi t h t hei r nei ghbor s. At one t i me he even

pr evai l ed on Sekel et u t o send pr esent s t o Lechul a-

t ebe, t he power f ul chi ef i n t he Lake Ngami di st r i ct ,

whi ch br ought no pr oper r et ur n. " I pr evai l ed on

t he Makol ol o t o keep t he peace dur i ng my st ay, but

coul d easi l y see t hat publ i c opi ni on was agai nst spar -

i ng a t r i be of Bechuanas. The young men ex-

cl ai med ' Lechul at ebe i s her di ng our cows f or us. ' "

At anot her , a par t y of hi ppopot amus hunt er s f r om

t he Loet i f l ed on t hei r appr oach, l eavi ng t hei r canoes

and t hei r cont ent s. On t hese hi s f ol l ower s " r ushed

l i ke f ur i es r egar dl ess of my shout i ng. As t hi s

woul d have dest r oyed my char act er at Lobal e, I

f or ced t hem t o l ay down al l t he pl under on a sand-

bank and l eave i t f or t he owner s. " Si xt y mi l es t o

t he nor t h t hey came on a st ockade f ul l of sl aves

er ect ed by t he Mambar i , amongst whom was Mpepe,

t he r ebel br ot her of Sekel et u. Some of Mpepe' s

men di vul ged a pl ot f or t he mur der of Sekel et u.

The r i val s met i n a hut f or conf er ence. ' ' Bei ng

t i r ed wi t h r i di ng, I asked Sekel et u wher e I shoul d

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. " J" ?

sl eepo He r epl i ed, ' Come, I wi l l show you/ As we

r ose t oget her I unconsci ousl y cover ed hi s body wi t h

mi ne, and saved hi m f r om t he bl ow of t he assassi n.

When Sekel et u showed me t he hut i n whi ch I was

t o pass t he ni ght he sai d, ' That man wi shes t o ki l l

me/ The chi ef r esol ved t o be bef or ehand wi t h hi m.

He sent men t o sei ze hi m, and he was l ed out a mi l e

and spear ed. Thi s i s t he common mode of execut i ng

cr i mi nal s. " Mpepe' s men f l ed, and t he Makol ol o

pr oposed t o at t ack t he Mambar i st ockade. Dr ead-

i ng an out br eak of war , Li vi ngst one ur ged t hat i t

woul d be har d t o t ake, bei ng def ended by musket s.

" ' Hunger i s st r ong enough f or t hat , ' sai d an under

chi ef , ' a ver y gr eat f el l ow i s he. ' As t he chi ef suf -

f er er s woul d have been t he poor sl aves chai ned i n

gangs, I i nt er ceded f or t hem, and t hey wer e al l owed

Page 49 of 182

t o depar t . "

I n t he Bar ot se val l ey t hey passed a t own i n whi ch

wer e t wo of Mpepe' s chi ef conf eder at es. On Sekel e-

t u' s ar r i val t hey wer e sei zed and t ossed i nt o t he

r i ver . " When I r emonst r at ed agai nst human l i f e

bei ng wast ed i n t hi s of f - hand way, my compani ons

j ust i f i ed t he act by t he evi dence gi ven by Mamochi -

shane, and cal ml y added, ' You see, we ar e st i l l Boer s,

we ar e not yet t aught . ' " *

* Dur i ng t he t i me t hus spent i n t he Bar ot se count r y, Li vi ng-

st one saw heat heni sm i n i t s most unadul t er at ed f or m. I t was

a pai nf ul , l oat hsome, and hor r i bl e spect acl e. Hi s vi ews of

t he Fal l and of t he cor r upt i on of human nat ur e wer e cer t ai nl y

not l i ght ened by t he si ght l y hi s Jour nal he i s const ant l y

78 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

On t hese j our neys t he camp had of t en t o be sup-

pHed wi t h meat , and t he Makol ol o shot so badl y t hat

" I was obHged t o go mysel f t o save my pow-

der . . . . I was i n cl oser cont act wi t h heat hens

t han I had ever been bef or e, and t hough al l wer e as

ki nd t o me as possi bl e, yet t o endur e t he danci ng,

r oar i ng, and si ngi ng, t he j est i ng, gr umbl i ng, quar -

r el l i ngs, and mur der i ngs of t hese chi l dr en of nat ur e,

was t he sever est penance I had yet under gone i n t he

cour se of my mi ssi onar y dut i es. "

Af t er each excur si on t hey r et ur ned t o Li nyant i ,

wher e Li vi ngst one wor ked har d as mi ssi onar y and

doct or . Sekel et u pr essed hi m t o name anyt hi ng he

desi r ed, and i t shoul d be gi ven. * 1 expl ai ned t hat

my obj ect was t o el evat e hi m and hi s peopl e t o be

Chr i st i ans. He r epl i ed he di d not wi sh t o l ear n t o

l et t i ng f al l expr essi ons of wear i ness at t he noi se, t he exci t e-

ment , t he wi l d savage danci ng, t he hear t l ess cr uel t y, t he

ut t er di sr egar d of f eel i ngs, t he dest r uct i on of chi l dr en, t he

dr udger y of t he ol d peopl e, t he at r oci ous mur der s wi t h whi ch

he was i n cont act . Occasi onal l y he woul d t hi nk of ot her scenes

of t r avel ; i f a f r i end, f or exampl e, wer e goi ng t o Pal est i ne,

he woul d say how gl adl y he woul d ki ss t he dust t hat had

been t r od by t he Man of Sor r ows. One day a poor gi r l comes

hungr y and naked t o t he wagons, and i s r el i eved f r om t i me t o

t i me ; t hen di sappear s t o di e i n t he woods of st ar vat i on or be

t or n i n pi eces by t he hyenas. Anot her day, as he i s pr eachi ng,

a boy, wal ki ng al ong wi t h hi s mot her , i s suddenl y sei zed by

a man, ut t er s a shr i ek as i f hi s hear t had bur st , and becomes,

as Li vi ngst one f i nds, a hopel ess sl ave. Anot her t i me, t he

si ckeni ng si ght i s a l i ne of sl aves at t ached by a chai n. That

chai n haunt s and har r ows hi m.

Ll NYANTl AND THE MAKOLOLO. ^ 0

r ead t he Book, f or he was af r ai d i t mi ght change hi s

hear t , and make hi m cont ent wi t h one wi f e, l i ke

Page 50 of 182

Sechel e. No, no, he want ed al ways t o have f i ve

wi ves at l east . "

He hel d r egul ar ser vi ces t o l ar ge congr egat i ons.

" When I st and up al l t he women and chi l dr en dr aw

near , and, havi ng or der ed si l ence, I expl ai n t he pl an

of sal vat i on, t he goodness of God i n sendi ng Hi s

Son t o di e, et c. , al ways choosi ng one subj ect , and

t aki ng car e t o make i t shor t and pl ai n. A shor t

pr ayer concl udes t he ser vi ce, al l kneel i ng down and

r emai ni ng t i l l t ol d t o r i se. At f i r st we have t o t el l

t he women who have chi l dr en t o r emai n si t t i ng, f or

when t hey kneel t hey squeeze t he chi l dr en, and a

si mul t aneous ski r l i s set up by t he whol e t r oop of

youngst er s, who make t he pr ayer i naudi bl e. "

And agai n and agai n i n t he Jour nal ar e ent r i es of

* * l ar ge and at t ent i ve audi ences, " but no conceal ment

of t he convi ct i on t hat t he ef f ect i s super f i ci al . " They

l i st en, but never suppose t he t r ut h must be embodi ed

i n act ual l i f e. . . . A mi ni st er who had not

seen so much pi oneer ser vi ce as I have done woul d

have been shocked t o see so l i t t l e ef f ect pr o-

duced. . . . We can af f or d t o wor k i n f ai t h. . . .

When we vi ew t he st at e of t he wor l d and i t s advanc -

i ng ener gi es by chi l dl i ke, or cal l i t chi l di sh, f ai t h, we

see t he ear t h f i l l i ng wi t h t he knowl edge of t he gl or y

of God — aye, al l nat i ons seei ng Hi s gl or y and bow-

i ng bef or e Hi m whose r i ght i t i s t o r ei gn. We wor k

80 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t owar d anot her st at e of t hi ngs. Fut ur e mi ssi onar i es

wi l l be r ewar ded by conver si ons f or ever y ser mon.

We ar e t hei r pi oneer s. They wi l l doubt l ess have

mor e l i ght t han we, but we ser ved our Mast er

ear nest l y and pr ocl ai med t he same Gospel t hey

wi l l do. " *

* " i 3t h Oct ober . — Mi ssi onar i es ought t o cul t i vat e a t ast e f or

t he beaut i f ul . We ar e necessar i l y compel l ed t o cont empl at e

much mor al i mpur i t y and degr adat i on. We ar e so of t en

doomed t o di sappoi nt ment . We ar e apt t o become ei t her

cal l ous or mel anchol y, or , i f pr eser ved f r om t hese, t he const ant

st r ai n on t he sensi bi l i t i es i s l i kel y t o i nj ur e t he bodi l y heal t h.

On t hi s account i t seems necessar y t o cul t i vat e t hat f acul t y f or

t he gr at i f i cat i on of whi ch God has made such uni ver sal pr o-

vi si on. See t he gr een ear t h and bl ue sky, t he l of t y mount ai n

and t he ver dant val l ey, t he gl or i ous or bs of day and ni ght ,

and t he st aj r y canopy wi t h al l t hei r cel est i al spl endor , t he

gr acef ul f l ower s so chast e i n f or m and per f ect i n col or i ng.

The var i ous f or ms of ani mat ed l i f e pr esent t o hi m whose

hear t i s at peace wi t h God t hr ough t he bl ood of Hi s Son an

i ndescr i babl e char m. He sees i n t he cal m beaut i es of nat ur e

such abundant pr ovi si on f or t he wel f ar e of humani t y and ani -

mat e exi st ence. Ther e appear s on t he qui et r epose of ear t h' s

scener y t he beni gnant smi l e of a Fat her ' s l ove. The sci ences

exhi bi t such wonder f ul i nt el l i gence and desi gn i n al l t hei r

var i ous r ami f i cat i ons, some t i me ought t o be devot ed t o t hem

bef or e engagi ng i n mi ssi onar y wor k. The hear t may of t en

be cheer ed by obser vi ng t he oper at i on of an ever - pr esent

I nt el l i gence, and we may f eel t hat we ar e l eani ng on Hi s

Page 51 of 182

bosom whi l e l i vi ng i n a wor l d cl ot hed i n beaut y, and r obed

wi t h t he gl or i ous per f ect i ons of i t s Maker and Pr eser ver . We

must f eel t hat t her e i s a Gover nor among t he nat i ons who

wi l l br i ng al l Hi s pl ans wi t h r espect t o our human f ami l y t o

a gl or i ous consummat i on. He who st ays hi s mi nd on hi s

ever - pr esent , ever - ener get i c God, wi l l not f r et hi msel f because

of evi l - doer s. He t hat bel i evet h shal l not make hast e. "

LI NYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 81

The r esul t of al l hi s excur si ons wi t h Sekel et u was

t o convi nce hi m t hat t her e was no hope of f i ndi ng a

heal t hy set t l ement near Li nyant i . The f ever had at

l ast at t acked hi m, and he was sel dom f r ee f r om i t .

Even t he Makol ol o, he f ound, wer e decr easi ng i n

number s si nce t hey had l i ved her e. So now hi s

whol e mi nd was set on t he al t er nat i ve of f i ndi ng a

way t o t he west coast . By degr ees t he unwi l l i ng-

ness of Sekel et u and hi s peopl e t o l et hi m go was

over come. Fl emi ng was sent back t o t he Cape wi t h

t he men f r om Kur uman, havi ng by Li vi ngst one' s

hel p made f ai r pr of i t s f or hi s empl oyer . Li vi ng-

st one' s own wagon, wi t h hi s books and ot her pr op-

er t y, wer e l ef t at Li nyant i . He was wel l awar e t hat

t he at t empt was i n t he nat ur e of a f or l or n hope, but

wr ot e t o hi s empl oyer s, " Cannot t he l ove of Chr i st

car r y t he mi ssi onar y wher e t he sl ave- t r ade car r i es

t he t r ader ?" t o hi s f at her - i n- l aw, " I shal l open up a

pat h t o t he i nt er i or or per i sh. I never have had t he

shadow of a shade of doubt as t o t he pr opr i et y of my

cour se" ; t o hi s f at her , " Our i nt ent i ons ar e t o go up

t he Luba t i l l we r each t he f al l s, t hen send back t he

canoe and pr oceed i n t he count r y beyond as best we

can. May Chr i st accept my chi l dr en f or Hi s ser -

vi ce, and sanct i f y t hem f or i t ! My bl essi ng on my

wi f e. May God comf or t her ! I f my wat ch comes

back af t er I am cut of f , i t bel ongs t o Agnes. I f my

sext ant , i t i s Rober t ' s. The Par i s medal t o Thomas.

Doubl e- bar r el ed gun t o Zouga. Be a f at her t o t he

82 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

f at her l ess and a husband t o t he wi dow f or Jesus'

sake.

" The Boer s by t aki ng possessi on of al l my goods

have saved me t he t r oubl e of maki ng a wi l l . "

CHAPTER Vo

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA.

1853- 54.

On November 11, 1853, he l ef t Li nyant i , and

ar r i ved at Loanda on May 31, 1854. The f i r st

st ages of t he j our ney wer e t o be by wat er , and Seke-

l et u accompani ed hi m t o t he Chobe, wher e he was t o

embar k. They cr ossed f i ve br anches bef or e r each-

Page 52 of 182

i ng t he mai n st r eam, a wi de and deep r i ver f ul l of

hi ppopot ami . * ' The chi ef l ent me hi s own canoe,

and as i t was br oader t han usual I coul d t ur n about

i n i t wi t h ease. . . . I had t hr ee musket s f or

my peopl e, and a r i f l e and doubl e- bar r el ed shot gun

f or mysel f . My ammuni t i on was di st r i but ed t hr ough

t he l uggage, t hat we mi ght not be l ef t wi t hout a

suppl y. Our chi ef hopes f or f ood wer e i n our guns.

I car r i ed t went y pounds of beads wor t h f or t y shi l -

l i ngs, a f ew bi scui t s, a f ew pounds of t ea and sugar ,

and about t went y pounds of cof f ee. One smal l t i n

cani st er , about f i f t een i nches squar e, was f i l l ed wi t h

spar e shi r t s, t r ouser s, and shoes, t o be used when we

r eached ci vi l i zed l i f e, anot her of t he same si ze was

st or ed wi t h medi ci nes, a t hi r d wi t h books, and a

f our t h wi t h a magi c- l ant er n, whi ch we f ound of

much ser vi ce. The sext ant and ot her i nst r ument s

84 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

wer e car r i ed apar t . A bag cont ai ned t he cl ot hes

we expect ed t o wear out i n t he j our ney, whi ch,

wi t h a smal l t ent j ust suf f i ci ent t o sl eep i n, a sheep-

ski n mant l e as a bl anket , and a hor se- r ug as a bed,

compl et ed my equi pment . An ar r ay of baggage

woul d pr obabl y have exci t ed t he cupi di t y of t he

t r i bes t hr ough whose count r y we wi shed t o pass. " *

* Di i r i ng t hi s par t of t he j our ney he had const ant at t acks of

i nt er mi t t ent f ever , accompani ed i n t he l at t er st ages of t he r oad

wi t h dysent er y of t he most di st r essi ng ki nd. I n t he i nt er val s

of f ever he was of t en depr essed al i ke i n body and i n mi nd.

Of t en t he par t y wer e dest i t ut e of f ood of any sor t , and never

had t hey f ood sui t abl e f or a f ever - st r i cken i nval i d. The

vexat i ons he encount er ed wer e of no common ki nd : at st ar t -

i ng, t he gr eat er par t of hi s medi ci nes was st ol en, much t hough

he needed t hem; i n t he cour se of t he j our ney, hi s pont oon

was l ef t behi nd ; at one t i me, whi l e he was under t he i nf l uence

of f ever , hi s r i di ng- ox t hr ew hi m, and he f el l heavi l y on hi s

head ; at anot her , whi l e cr ossi ng a r i ver , t he ox t ossed hi m

i nt o t he wat er ; t he heavy r ai ns, and t he necessi t y of wadi ng

t hr ough st r eams t hr ee or f our t i mes a day, kept hi m al most

const ant l y wet ; and occasi onal l y, t o var y t he annoyance, mos -

qui t oes woul d assai l hi m as f i er cel y as i f t hey had been wagi ng

a war of ext er mi nat i on. The most cr i t i cal moment s of per i l ,

demandi ng t he ut most cool ness and most daunt l ess cour age,

woul d somet i mes occur dur i ng t he st age of depr essi on af t er

f ever ; i t was t hen he had t o ext r i cat e hi msel f f r om savage

war r i or s, who vowed t hat he must go back, unl ess he gave

t hem an ox, a gun, or a man. The ox he coul d i l l spar e, t he

gun not at al l , and as f or gi vi ng t he l ast — a man — t o make a

sl ave of , he woul d sooner di e. At t he best , he was a poor

r agged skel et on when he r eached t hose who had hear t s t o f eel

f or hi m and hands t o hel p hi m. Had he not been a pr odi gy of

pat i ence, f ai t h, and cour age, had he not known wher e t o f i nd

hel p i n al l t i me of hi s t r i bul at i on, he woul d never have r eached

t he haunt s of ci vi l i zed men,

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 85

Page 53 of 182

The voyage up t he Chobe, and t he Zambesi af t er

t he j unct i on of t hose r i ver s, was pr osper ous but

sl ow, i n consequence of st oppages opposi t e vi l l ages.

* ' My man Pi t sane knew of t he gener ous or der s of

Sekel et u, and was not di sposed t o al l ow t hem t o

r emai n a dead l et t er . " I n t he r api ds, ' ' t he men

l eaped i nt o t he wat er wi t hout t he l east hesi t at i on t o

save t he canoes f r om bei ng dashed agai nst obst r uc-

t i ons, or caught i n eddi es. They must never be

al l owed t o come br oadsi de t o t he st r eam, f or bei ng

f l at - bot t omed t hey woul d at once be capsi zed and

ever yt hi ng i n t hem l ost . " When f r ee f r om f ever he

was del i ght ed t o not e t he number s of bi r ds, sever al

of t hem unknown, whi ch swar med on t he r i ver and

i t s banks, al l car ef ul l y not ed i n hi s Jour nal s. One

ext r act must suf f i ce her e: " Whenever we st ep on

shor e a speci es of pl over , a pl aguey sor t of publ i c -

spi r i t ed i ndi vi dual , f ol l ows, f l yi ng over head, and i s

most per sever i ng i n i t s at t empt s t o gi ve war ni ng t o

al l ani mal s t o f l ee f r om t he appr oachi ng danger , "

But he was al r eady weak wi t h f ever ; was sei zed wi t h

gi ddi ness whenever he l ooked up qui ckl y, and i f he

coul d not cat ch hol d of some suppor t f el l heavi l y — a

bad omen f or hi s chance of passi ng t hr ough t he un-

known count r y ahead ; but hi s pur pose never f al t er ed

f or a moment . On Januar y i , 1854, he was st i l l on

t he r i ver , but get t i ng beyond Sekel et u' s t er r i t or y anr l

al l i es t o a r egi on of dense f or est s, i n t he open gl ades

of whi ch dwel t t he Bal onda, a power f ul t r i be, whose

B6 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

r el at i ons wi t h t he Makol ol o wer e pr ecar i ous. Each

was i ncHned t o r ai d on t he ot her si nce t he Mambar i

and Por t uguese hal f - cast es had appear ed wi t h Man-

chest er goods. These exci t ed t he i nt ense wonder

and cupi di t y of bot h nat i ons. They l i st ened t o t he

st or y of cot t on- mi l l s as f ai r y dr eams, excl ai mi ng,

" How can i r on spi n, weave, and pr i nt ? Tr ul y ye

ar e gods! " and wer e al r eady i ncl i ned t o st eal t hei r

nei ghbor s' chi l dr en — t hose of t hei r own t r i be t hey

never sol d at t hi s t i me — t o obt ai n t hese wonder s out

of t he sea. Happi l y Li vi ngst one had br ought back

wi t h hi m sever al Bal onda chi l dr en who had been

car r i ed of f by t he Makol ol o. Thi s, and hi s speeches

t o Manenko, t he chi ef t ai ness of t he di st r i ct and ni ece

of Shi nt e, t he head chi ef of t he Bal onda, gai ned

t hem a wel come. Thi s Amazon was a st r appi ng

young woman of t went y, who l ed t hei r par t y

t hr ough t he f or est at a pace whi ch t r i ed t he best

wal ker s. She seems t o have been t he onl y nat i ve

whose wi l l ever pr evai l ed agai nst Li vi ngst one' s. He

i nt ended t o pr oceed up t o her uncl e Shi nt e' s t own i n

canoes ; she i nsi st ed t hat t hey shoul d mar ch by l and,

and or der ed her peopl e t o shoul der hi s baggage i n

spi t e of hi m. * ' My men succumbed, and l ef t me

power l ess. I was movi ng of f i n hi gh dudgeon t o t he

canoes, when she ki ndl y pl aced her hand on my

shoul der , and wi t h a mot her l y l ook sai d, ' Now, my

l i t t l e man, j ust do as t he r est have done. ' My f eel -

i ng of annoyance, of cour se, vani shed, and I went

Page 54 of 182

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 87

out t o t r y f or some meat . My men, i n admi r at i on

of her pedest r i an power s, kept r emar ki ng, ' Manenko

i s a sol di er , ' and we wer e al l gl ad when she pr oposed

a hal t f or t he ni ght . " Shi nt e r ecei ved t hem i n hi s

t own, t he l ar gest and best l ai d out t hat Li vi ngst one

had seen i n Cent r al Af r i ca, on a sor t of t hr one cov -

er ed wi t h l eopar d ski n. The kot l a, or pl ace of audi -

ence, was one hundr ed yar ds squar e. Though i n

t he sweat i ng st age of an i nt er mi t t ent f ever , Li vi ng-

st one hel d hi s own wi t h t he chi ef , gave hi m an ox as

' ' hi s mout h was bi t t er f r om want of f l esh, " advi sed

hi m t o open a t r ade i n cat t l e wi t h t he Makol ol o, and

t o put down t he sl ave- t r ade; and, af t er spendi ng

mor e t han a week wi t h hi m, l ef t ami d t he war mest

pr of essi ons of f r i endshi p. Shi nt e f ound hi m a gui de

of hi s t r i be, I nt emese by name, who was t o st ay by

t hem t i l l t hey r eached t he sea, and at a l ast i nt er vi ew

hung r ound hi s neck a coni cal shel l of such val ue

t hat t wo of t hem, so hi s men assur ed hi m, woul d

pur chase a sl ave. *

* I n most cases t hese peopl e wer e out war dl y ver y r epul si ve.

Never seen wi t hout a spear or a cl ub i n t hei r hands, t he men

seemed onl y t o del i ght i n pl under and sl aught er , and yet t hey

wer e ut t er cowar ds. Thei r mout hs wer e f ul l of cur si ng and

bi t t er ness. The execr at i ons t hey pour ed on each ot her wer e

i ncr edi bl e. I n ver y want onness, when t hey met t hey woul d

pel t each ot her wi t h cur ses, and t hen per haps bur st i nt o a f i t

of l aught er . The women, l i ke t he men, went about i n al most

t ot al nudi t y, and seemed t o know no shame. So r eckl ess wer e

t he chi ef s of human l i f e, t hat a man mi ght be put t o deat h f or

a si ngl e di st ast ef ul wor d; yet somet i mes t her e wer e exhi bi -

88 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Soon t hey wer e out of Shi nt e' s t er r i t or y, and I nt e-

mese became t he pl ague of t he par t y, t hough, un-

l ucki l y, t hey coul d not di spense wi t h hi m al t oget her

i n cr ossi ng t he gr eat f l ooded pl ai ns of Lebal a. They

camped at ni ght on mounds, wher e t hey had t o

t r ench r ound each hut and use t he ear t h t o r ai se t hei r

sl eepi ng pl aces. " My men t ur ned out t o wor k most

wi l l i ngl y, and I coul d not but cont r ast t hei r conduct

wi t h t hat of I nt emese, who was t hor oughl y i mbued

wi t h t he sl ave spi r i t , and l i ed on al l occasi ons t o save

hi msel f t r oubl e. " He l ost t he pont oon, t oo, t her eby

addi ng gr eat l y t o t hei r t r oubl es. They now came t o

t he t er r i t or y of anot her gr eat chi ef , Kat ema, who

r ecei ved t hem hospi t abl y, sendi ng f ood and gi vi ng

t hem sol emn audi ence i n hi s kot l a, sur r ounded by

hi s t r i be. A t al l man of f or t y, dr essed i n a snuf f -

br own coat , wi t h a br oad band of t i nsel down t he

ar ms and a hel met of beads and f eat her s. He car -

r i ed a l ar ge f an wi t h char ms at t ached, whi ch he

waved const ant l y dur i ng t he audi ence, of t en l augh-

i ng hear t i l y — " a good si gn, f or a man who shakes

t i ons of ver y t ender f eel i ng. The headman of a vi l l age once

Page 55 of 182

showed hi m, wi t h much appar ent f eel i ng, t he bur nt house of

a chi l d of hi s, addi ng, " She per i shed i n i t , and we have al l

r emoved f r om our own hut s and bui l t her e r ound her , i n or der

t o weep over her gr ave. " Fr om some of t he peopl e he

r ecei ved gr eat ki ndness; ot her s wer e qui t e di f f er ent . Thei r

char act er , i n shor t , was a r i ddl e, and woul d need t o be st udi ed

mor e. But t he pr eval ent aspect of t hi ngs was bot h di s -

t r essi ng and depr essi ng. I f he had t hought of i t cont i nual l vj

he woul d have become t he vi ct i m of mel anchol y.

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 89

hi s si des wi t h mi r t h i s sel dom di f f i cul t t o deal wi t h. "

" 1 am t he gr eat Moene Kat ema, " was hi s addr ess;

" I and my f at her s have al ways l i ved her e, and t her e

i s my f at her ' s house. I never ki l l ed any of t he

t r ader s ; t hey al l come t o me. I am t he gr eat Moene

Kat ema, of whom you have hear d. " On hear i ng

Li vi ngst one' s obj ect , he gave hi m t hr ee gui des, who

woul d t ake hi m by a nor t her n r out e, al ong whi ch no

t r ader s had passed, t o avoi d t he pl ai ns, i mpassabl e

f r om t he f l oods. He accept ed Li vi ngst one' s pr esent

of a shawl , a r azor , some beads and but t ons, and a

powder - hor n gr aci ousl y, l aughi ng at hi s apol ogi es

f or i t s smal l ness, and aski ng hi m t o br i ng a coat

f r om Loanda, as t he one he was wear i ng was ol d.

Fr om t hi s poi nt t r oubl es mul t i pl i ed, and t hey

began t o be ser i ousl y pr essed f or f ood. The bi g

game had di sappear ed, and t hey wer e gl ad t o cat ch

mol es and mi ce. Ever y chi ef demanded a pr esent

f or al l owi ng t hem t o pass, and t he peopl e of t he

vi l l ages char ged exor bi t ant l y f or al l suppl i es. On

t hey f l ounder ed, however , t hr ough f l ooded f or est s.

I n cr ossi ng t he r i ver Loka, Li vi ngst one' s ox got

f r om hi m, and he had t o st r i ke out f or t he f ar t her

bank. " My poor f el l ows wer e dr eadf ul l y al ar med,

and about t went y of t hem made a si mul t aneous r ush

i nt o t he wat er f or my r escue, and j ust as I r eached

t he opposi t e bank one sei zed me by t he ar ms, and

anot her cl asped me r ound t he body. When I st ood

up i t was most gr at i f yi ng t o see t hem al l st r uggl i ng

90 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t owar d me. Par t of my goods wer e br ought up

f r om t he bot t om when I was saf e. Gr eat was t hei r

pl easur e when t hey f ound I coul d swi m l i ke t hem-

y sel ves, and I f el t most gr at ef ul t o t hose poor heat hens

f or t he pr ompt i t ude wi t h whi ch t hey dashed i n t o my

r escue. " ' Far t her on, t he peopl e t r i ed t o f r i ght en

t hem wi t h t he account of t he deep r i ver s t hey had yet

t o cr oss, but hi s men l aughed. " ' We can al l swi m/

t hey sai d; ' who car r i ed t he whi t e man acr oss t he

r i ver but hi msel f ?' I f el t pr oud of t hei r pr ai se. " *

On Mar ch 4t h t hey r eached t he count r y of t he

Chi boque, a t r i be i n const ant cont act wi t h t he sl ave-

deal er s. Next day t hei r camp was sur r ounded by

t he near est chi ef and hi s war r i or s, evi dent l y bent on

pl under . They paused when t hey saw Li vi ngst one

Page 56 of 182

seat ed on hi s camp- st ool , wi t h hi s doubl e- bar r el ed

gun acr oss hi s knees, and hi s Makol ol o r eady wi t h

t hei r j avel i ns. The chi ef and hi s pr i nci pal men sat

down i n f r ont at Li vi ngst one' s i nvi t at i on t o t al k over

t he mat t er , and a pal aver began as t o t he f i ne cl ai med

/ * The l onel i ness of f eel i ng engender ed by t he absence of

al l human sympat hy was t r yi ng. " Ami dst al l t he beaut y and

l ovel i ness wi t h whi ch I am sur r ounded, t her e i s st i l l a f eel i ng

of want i n t he soul — as i f somet hi ng mor e wer e needed t o

bat he t he soul i n bl i ss t han t he si ght of t he per f ect i on i n

wor ki ng and goodness i n pl anni ng of t he gr eat Fat her of our

spi r i t s. I need t o be pur i f i ed — f i t t ed f or t he et er nal , t o whi ch

my soul st r et ches away, i n ever - r et ur ni ng l ongi ngs. I need

t o be made mor e l i ke my bl essed Savi our , t o ser ve my God

wi t h al l my power s. Look upon me, Spi r i t of t he l i vi ng God,

and suppl y al l Thou seest l acki ng. "

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 91

by t he Chi boque. " The mor e I yi el ded, t he mor e

unr easonabl e t hey became, and at ever y f r esh de-

mand a shout was r ai sed, and a r ush made r ound us

wi t h br andi shed weapons. One young man even

made a char ge at my head f r om behi nd, but I qui ckl y

br ought r ound t he muzzl e of my gun t o hi s mout h

and he r et r eat ed. My men behaved wi t h admi r abl e

cool ness. The chi ef and hi s counsel l or s, by accept -

i ng my i nvi t at i on t o be seat ed, had pl aced t hemsel ves

i n a t r ap, f or my men had qui et l y sur r ounded t hem,

and made t hem f eel t hat t her e was no chance of

escapi ng t hei r spear s. I t hen sai d t hat as ever y -

t hi ng had f ai l ed t o sat i sf y t hem t hey evi dent l y meant

t o f i ght , and i f so, t hey must begi n, and bear t he

bl ame bef or e God. I t hen sat si l ent f or some t i me.

I t was cer t ai nl y r at her t r yi ng, but I was car ef ul not

t o seem f l ur r i ed ; and havi ng f our bar r el s r eady f or

i nst ant act i on, l ooked qui et l y at t he savage scene

ar ound. " The pal aver began agai n, and ended i n

t he exchange of an ox f or a pr omi se of f ood, i n

whi ch he was wof ul l y cheat ed. ' ' I t was i mpossi bl e

t o hel p l aughi ng, but I was t r ul y t hankf ul t hat we

had so f ar gai ned our poi nt as t o be al l owed t o pass

wi t hout sheddi ng human bl ood. "

He now st r uck nor t h t o avoi d t he Chi boque, and

made f or t he Por t uguese set t l ement of Cassange

t hr ough dense f or est and const ant wet . Her e an-

ot her f ever f i t came on, so vi ol ent t hat ' T coul d

scar cel y, af t er some hour s' t r i al , get a l unar obser va-

9^ THE LI FE OF DAVI D UVI NGSTONE.

t i on i n whi ch I coul d r epose conf i dence. Those who

know t he di f f i cul t i es of maki ng obser vat i ons and

commi t t i ng t hem al l t o paper wi l l sympat hi ze wi t h

me i n t hi s and many si mi l ar i nst ances. ' *

At t hi s cr i si s, when t he goal was al l but at hand,

obst acl es mul t i pl i ed t i l l i t seemed t hat af t er al l i t

Page 57 of 182

woul d never be r eached. Fi r st hi s r i di ng ox, Si r i d-

bad — a beast " bl essed wi t h a most i nt r act abl e t em-

per , " and a habi t of bol t i ng i nt o t he bush t o get hi s

r i der combed of f by a cl i mber , and t hen ki cki ng at

hi m — achi eved a t r i umph i n hi s weak st at e when

" my br i dl e br oke, and down I came backwar d on t he

cr own of my head, r ecei vi ng as I f el l a ki ck on t he

t hi gh. , . . Thi s l ast at t ack of f ever r educed

me al most t o a skel et on. The bl anket whi ch I used

as a saddl e, bei ng pr et t y const ant l y wet , caused ex -

t ensi ve abr asi on of t he ski n, whi ch was cont i nual l y

heal i ng and get t i ng sor e agai n. " Then t he gui des

mi ssed t hei r way and l ed t hem back i nt o Chi boque

t er r i t or y, wher e t he demands of t he chi ef of ever y

vi l l age f or " a man, an ox, or a t usk, " f or per mi ssi on

t o pass, began agai n. Wor st of al l , si gns of mut i ny

began t o show t hemsel ves amongst t he Bat oka men

of hi s par t y, who t hr eat ened t o t ur n back. He ap-

peased t hem by gi vi ng a t i r ed ox t o be ki l l ed at t he

Sunday' s hal t . " Havi ng t hus, as I t hought , si l enced

t hei r mur mur s, I sank i nt o a st at e of t or por , and was

obl i vi ous of al l t hei r noi se. On Sunday t he mut i -

neer s wer e maki ng a t er r i bl e di n i n pr epar i ng t he

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 93

ski n. I r equest ed t hem t wi ce t o be mor e qui et as t he

noi se pai ned me, but as t hey pai d no at t ent i on t o t hi s

ci vi l r equest , I put out my head, and, r epeat i ng i t ,

was answer ed by an i mpudent l augh. Knowi ng t hat

di sci pl i ne woul d be at an end i f t hi s mut i ny was not

quel l ed, and t hat our l i ves depended on vi gor ousl y

uphol di ng aut hor i t y, I sei zed a doubl e- bar r el ed pi st ol

and dar t ed out wi t h such a savage aspect as t o put

t hem t o pr eci pi t at e f l i ght . They gave no f ur t her

t r oubl e. " Ever y ni ght now t hey had t o bui l d a

st ockade, and by day t o mar ch i n a compact body,

knowi ng t he f or est t o be f ul l of enemi es doggi ng

t hei r pat h, f or now t hey had not hi ng t o gi ve as pr es -

ent s, t he men havi nsr even di vest ed t hemsel ves of al l

t hei r copper or nament s t o appease t he Chi boque har -

pi es. ' ' Not hi ng, however , di st ur bed us, and f or my

par t I was t oo i l l t o car e much whet her we wer e

at t acked or not . " They st r uggl ed on, t he Chi boque

nat i ves, now j oi ned by bodi es of t r ader s, opposi ng at

ever y f or d, Li vi ngst one no l onger wonder i ng why

expedi t i ons f r om t he i nt er i or f ai l ed t o r each t he

coast . ' ' Some of my men pr oposed t o r et ur n home,

and t he pr ospect of bei ng obl i ged t o t ur n back f r om

t he t hr eshol d of t he Por t uguese set t l ement s di s -

t r essed me exceedi ngl y. Af t er usi ng al l my power s

of per suasi on I decl ar ed t hat i f t hey now r et ur ned I

shoul d go on al one, and r et ur ni ng i nt o my l i t t l e t ent ,

I l i f t ed up my hear t t o Hi m who hear s t he si ghi ng of

t he soul . Pr esent l y t he head- man came i n. ' Do not

94 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

be di shear t ened/ he sai d; Ve wi l l never l eave you.

Wher ever you l ead, we wi l l f ol l ow. Our r emar ks

Page 58 of 182

wer e onl y made on account of t he i nj ust i ce of t hese

peopl e. ' Ot her s f ol l owed, and wi t h t he most ar t l ess

si mpl i ci t y of manner t ol d me t o be comf or t ed — ' t hey

wer e al l my chi l dr en ; t hey knew no one but Sekel et u

and me, and woul d di e f or me; t hey had spoken i n

bi t t er ness of spi r i t , f eel i ng t hey coul d do not hi ng. ' "

On Apr i l i st t hey gai ned t he r i dge whi ch over l ooks

t he val l ey of t he Quango, and t he Por t uguese set t l e-

ment s on t he f ar t her bank. ' The descent i s so st eep

t hat I was obl i ged t o di smount , t hough so weak t hat

I had t o be suppor t ed. Bel ow us, at a dept h of i , ooo

f eet , l ay t he magni f i cent val l ey of t he Quango. The

vi ew of t he Val e of Cl yde, f r om t he spot wher e Mar y

wi t nessed t he bat t l e of Langsi de, r esembl ed i n mi ni a-

t ur e t he gl or i ous si ght whi ch was her e pr esent ed

t o our vi ew. " On t he 4t h t hey wer e cl ose t o t he

Quango, her e one hundr ed and f i f t y yar ds br oad,

when t hey wer e st opped f or t he l ast t i me by a vi l l age

chi ef , and sur r ounded by hi s men. The usual al t er -

cat i on ensued, Li vi ngst one r ef usi ng t o gi ve up hi s

bl anket — t he l ast ar t i cl e he possessed except hi s

wat ch and i nst r ument s and Sekel et u' s t usks, whi ch

had been f ai t hf ul l y guar ded — unt i l on boar d t he

canoes i n whi ch t hey wer e t o cr oss. " I was t r yi ng t o

per suade my peopl e t o move on t o t he bank i n spi t e

of t hem, when a young hal f - cast e Por t uguese ser -

geant of mi l i t i a, Cypr i ano di Abr en, who had come

LI NVANTI TO LOANDA. 95

acr oss i n sear ch of bees' - wax, made hi s appear ance,

and gave t he same advi ce. " They mar ched t o t he

bank — t he chi ef ' s men openi ng f i r e on t hem but

wi t hout doi ng any damage — made t er ms wi t h t he

f er r ymen by Cypr i ano' s hel p, cr ossed t he Quango,

and wer e at t he end of t hei r t r oubl es.

Four days t hey st opped wi t h Cypr i ano, who

t r eat ed t hem r oyal l y, ki l l i ng an ox and st r i ppi ng hi s

gar den t o f east t hem, and sendi ng t hem on t o Cas -

sange wi t h pr ovi si ons of meal gr ound by hi s mot her

and her mai ds. " I car r i ed l et t er s f r om t he Cheval i er

du Pr at of Cape Town, but I am i ncl i ned t o bel i eve

t hat my f r i end Cypr i ano was i nf l uenced by f eel i ngs

of genui ne ki ndness exci t ed by my wr et ched appear -

ance. "

At Cassange t hey wer e agai n most hospi t abl y

t r eat ed, and her e, bef or e st ar t i ng f or Loanda, t hr ee

hundr ed mi l es, t hey di sposed of Sekel et u' s t usks,

whi ch sol d f or much hi gher pr i ces t han t hose gi ven

by Cape t r ader s. * ' Two musket s, t hr ee smal l bar r el s

of powder , and Engl i sh cal i co and bai ze enough t o

cl ot he my whol e par t y, wi t h l ar ge bunches of beads,

wer e gi ven f or one t usk, t o t he gr eat del i ght of my

Makol ol o, who had been used t o get onl y one gun f or

t wo t usks. Wi t h anot her t usk we pur chased cal i co

— t he chi ef cur r ency her e t o pay our way t o t he

coast . The r emai ni ng t wo wer e sol d f or money t o

pur chase a hor se f or Sekel et u at Loanda. " Li vi ng-

st one w^ s much st r uck bot h by t he count r y he passed

Page 59 of 182

96 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t hr ough and t he t er ms on whi ch t he Por t uguese

l i ved wi t h t he nat i ves. Most of t hem had f ami l i es

by nat i ve women, who wer e t r eat ed as Eur opean

chi l dr en and pr ovi ded f or by t hei r f at her s. Hal f -

cast e cl er ks sat at t abl e wi t h t he whi t es, and he

came t o t he concl usi on t hat " nowher e i n Af r i ca i s

t her e so much good- wi l l bet ween Eur opeans and

nat i ves as her e. " *

The di zzi ness pr oduced by hi s t went y- seven at -

t acks of f ever on t he r oad made i t al l he coul d do t o

st i ck on Si ndbad, who managed t o gi ve hi m a l ast

* At l engt h Li vi ngst one began t o get near t he coast , r each-

i ng t he out l yi ng Por t uguese st at i ons. He was r ecei ved by

t he Por t uguese gent l emen v^ ^ i t h gr eat ki ndness, and hi s want s

wer e gener ousl y pr ovi ded f or . One of t hem gave hi m t he

f i r st gl ass of wi ne he had t aken i n Af r i ca. Anot her pr ovi ded

hi m wi t h a sui t of cl ot hi ng. Li vi ngst one i nvoked t he bl essi ng

of Hi m who sai d, " I was naked and ye cl ot hed me. " Hi s

Jour nal i s pr of use i n i t s admi r at i on of some of t he Por t u-

guese t r ader s, who di d not l i ke t he sl ave- t r ade — not t hey, but

had most enl i ght ened vi ews f or t he wel f ar e of Af r i ca. But

opposi t e some of t hese eul ogi st i cal passages of t he Jour nal

t her e wer e af t er war d added an expr essi ve ser i es of mar ks of

i nt er r ogat i on.

At a l at er dat e he saw r eason t o doubt t he si ncer i t y of

some of t he pr of essi ons of t hese gent l emen. I ngenuous and '

t r ust f ul , he coul d at f i r st t hi nk not hi ng but good of t hose

who had shown hi m such mar ked at t ent i on. Af t er war d, t he

i nexor abl e l ogi c of f act s pr oved t oo st r ong, even f or hi s

unsuspect i ng soul . But t he ki ndness of t he Por t uguese was

most genui ne, and Li vi ngst one never ceased t o be gr at ef ul f or

a si ngl e ki nd act . I t i s i mpor t ant t o not e t hat what ever he

came t o t hi nk of t hei r pol i cy af t er war d, he was al ways r eady

t o make t hi s aoknowl edgment .

LI NYANTI TO LOANDA. 97

ducki ng i n t he Lombe. ' The weakeni ng ef f ect s of

t he f ever wer e most ext r aor di nar y. For i nst ance, i n

at t empt i ng t o t ake l unar obser vat i ons I coul d not

avoi d conf usi on of t i me and di st ance, nei t her coul d

I hol d t he i nst r ument st eady, nor per f or m a si mpl e

cal cul at i on/ ' He r al l i ed a l i t t l e i n cr ossi ng a moun-

t ai n r ange. As t hey dr ew near Loando t he hear t s of

hi s men began t o f ai l , and t hey hi nt ed t hei r doubt s

t o hi m. ' ' I f you suspect me you can r et ur n, " he t ol d

t hem, " f or I am as i gnor ant of Loando as you ; but

not hi ng wi l l happen t o you but what happens t o me.

We have st ood by one anot her hi t her t o, and wi l l do

so t i l l t he l ast . "

The f i r st vi ew of t he sea st agger ed t he Makol ol o.

" We wer e mar chi ng al ong wi t h our f at her , " t hey

sai d, " bel i evi ng what t he anci ent s had t ol d us was

t r ue, t hat t he wor l d had no end ; but al l at once t he

Page 60 of 182

wor l d sai d t o us, ' I am f i ni shed ; t her e i s no mor e of

me.

The f ever had pr oduced chr oni c dysent er y, whi ch

was so depr essi ng t hat Li vi ngst one ent er ed Loanda

i n deep mel anchol y, doubt i ng t he r ecept i on he mi ght

get f r om t he one Engl i sh gent l eman, Mr . Gabr i el ,

t he Commi ssi oner f or t he suppr essi on of t he sl ave-

t r ade. He was soon undecei ved. Mr . Gabr i el r e-

cei ved hi m most ki ndl y, and, seei ng t he condi t i on he

was i n, gave hi m up hi s own bed. " Never shal l I

f or get t he l uxur i ous pl easur e I enj oyed i n f eel i ng

mysel f agai n on a good Engl i sh bed af t er si x mont hs'

98 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

sl eepi ng on t he gr ound. I was soon asl eep ; and Mr .

Gabr i el r ej oi ced i n t he soundness of my r epose. " *

* I n hi s Jour nal t he war mest benedi ct i ons ar e pour ed on Mr .

Gabr i el , and bl essi ngs ever l ast i ng besought f or hi s soul . One

gr eat di sappoi nt ment he suf f er ed at Loanda — not a si ngl e

l et t er was awai t i ng hi m. Hi s f r i ends must have t hought he

coul d never r each i t . Thi s want of l et t er s was a ver y f r e-

quent t r i al , especi al l y t o one who wr ot e so many, and of such

l engt h. The cor di al f r i endshi p of Mr . Gabr i el , however , was

a gr eat sol ace. He gave hi m much i nf or mat i on, not onl y on

al l t hat concer ned t he sl ave t r ade — now mor e t han ever at t r act -

i ng hi s at t ent i on — but al so on t he nat ur al hi st or y of t he di s -

t r i ct , and he ent er ed con amor e i nt o t he hi ghest obj ect s of

hi s mi ssi on. Af t er war d, i n acknowl edgi ng t o t he Di r ect or s

of t he London Mi ssi onar y Soci et y r ecei pt of a l et t er f or Dr .

Li vi ngst one, i nt r ust ed t o hi s car e, Mr . Gabr i el wr ot e as f ol -

l ows ( 20t h Mar ch, 1856) i

" Dr . Li vi ngst one, af t er t he nobl e obj ect s he has achi eved,

most assur edl y want s no t est i mony f r om me. I consul t , t her e-

f or e, t he i mpul se of my own mi nd al one, when I decl ar e t hat

i n no r espect was my i nt er cour se mor e gr at i f yi ng t o me t han

i n t he oppor t uni t i es af f or ded t o me of obser vi ng hi s ear nest ,

act i ve, and unwear i ed sol i ci t ude f or t he advancement of Chr i s -

t i ani t y. Few, per haps, have had bet t er oppor t uni t i es t han

mysel f of est i mat i ng t he benef i t t he Chr i st i an cause i n t hi s

count r y ha^ der i ved f r om Dr . Li vi ngst one' s exer t i ons. I t i s

i ndeed f or t unat e f or t hat sacr ed cause, and hi ghl y honor abl e

t o t he London Mi ssi onar y Soci et y, when qual i t i es and di sposi -

t i ons l i ke hi s ar e empl oyed i n pr opagat i ng i t s bl essi ngs among

men. I r r espect i ve, mor eover , of hi s l audabl e and si ngl e-

mi nded conduct as a mi ni st er of t he Gospel , and hi s at t ai n-

ment s i n maki ng obser vat i ons whi ch have det er mi ned t he t r ue

geogr aphy of t he i nt er i or , t he Di r ect or s, I am sur e, wi l l not

have f ai l ed t o per cei ve how i nt er est i ng and val uabl e ar e al l

t he communi cat i ons t hey r ecei ve f r om hi m — as sket ches of t he

soci al condi t i on of t he peopl e, and t he mat er i al , f abr i cs, and

pr oduce of t hese l ands. . o , ' *

CHAPTER VI .

ACROSS AFRI CA — LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE.

1854- 57.

Page 61 of 182

The j our ney t o Loanda bed sever el y t r i ed Li vi ng-

st one' s spl endi d const i t ut i on. Though he r al l i ed

f r om hi s f i r st at t ack i n a f ew days, he was subj ect t o

sever e r el apses, t he l ast of whi ch, i n August , ent i r el y

pr ost r at ed hi m. He was r educed t o a skel et on, but

under t he car e of Mr . Gabr i el and t he sur geon of t he

" Pol yphemus, " r ecover ed, and was t hankf ul t o f i nd

t hat t he l assi t ude whi ch had not l ef t hi m f or mont hs

had at l ast di sappear ed. Hi s pr epar at i ons f or t he r e-

t ur n j our ney t o Li nyant i wer e now pushed on, and

he st ar t ed east war d on Sept ember 20t h. Dur i ng hi s

at t acks of f ever he had been unabl e t o l ook af t er

hi s t went y- seven Makol ol o, whom he had br ought

saf el y t hr ough so many per i l s, but on hi s r ecover y

was pl eased and r el i eved t o f i nd how wel l t hey had

managed t o shi f t f or t hemsel ves. They had est ab-

l i shed a br i sk t r ade i n f i r ewood, whi ch t hey col l ect ed

i n t he wi l d count r y and sol d at a cheaper r at e t han

r egul ar wood- car r i er s; and had al so been empl oyed

at si xpence a day, f or each man, i n unl oadi ng an

Engl i sh vessel whi ch had br ought out coal f or t he

cr ui ser s on t he st at i on.

100 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

These, t he " Pl ut o" and " Phi l omel , " wer e now vi s -

i t ed on t he capt ai n' s i nvi t at i on by Li vi ngst one wi t h

hi s men. " I t i s not a canoe at al l , i t i s a t own ! and

what sor t of a t own t hat you cl i mb up i nt o wi t h a

r ope?" t he Makol ol o wonder ed, " These ar e al l my

count r ymen, sent by our Queen t o put down t hose

who buy and sel l bl ack men, " Li vi ngst one t ol d t hem,

poi nt i ng t o t he sai l or s. " Tr ul y, t hey ar e j ust l i ke

you! " t he Makol ol o r epl i ed, and wer e soon f or -

war d amongst t he cr ew, who shar ed t hei r di nner s

wi t h t hem, and ot her wi se pet t ed t hem i n " t he kot l a, "

as t hey cal l ed t he sai l or s' deck. He hi msel f became

f ast f r i ends wi t h Capt ai ns Skene and Bedi ngf i el d,

and a hear t y admi r er of t he Br i t i sh Navy, t he of f i cer s

of whi ch he had once l ooked on as i dl er s, mai nt ai ned

by t he har d- wor ki ng nat i on, and t he men as r eckl ess

ne' er - do- weel s, who gl or i ed i n f ear i ng nei t her God,

nor man, nor devi l , " and made our wooden wal l s

f l oat i ng hel l s. " I t was not t he f i r st or t he l ast of hi s

ear l y pr ej udi ces t hat t he gr eat Pur i t an t r avel l er was

dest i ned t o out l i ve.

Seei ng hi s wr et ched st at e of heal t h, t he capt ai ns

ur ged hi m t o go home, of f er i ng hi m a passage wi t h

t hem t o St . Hel ena. Ot her f r i ends suppor t ed t hem,

ur gi ng hi m t o t ake passage on boar d t he " For e-

r unner " mai l packet , by whi ch he was sendi ng home

hi s l et t er s, wi t h j our nal s, maps, and obser vat i ons,

l abor i ousl y dr awn up f or hi s empl oyer s, t he Geo-

gr aphi cal Soci et y, and t he Ast r onomer - Royal . The

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 101

t empt at i on was gr eat , as he had f ound no l et t er f r om

Page 62 of 182

home, nor di spat ch, at Loanda, but he put i t r eso-

l ut el y asi de, knowi ng t hat hi s Makol ol o coul d never

get back wi t hout hi m, and havi ng pl edged hi s wor d

t o Sekel et u t o see t hem home. The ^ ' For er unner "

was l ost of f Madei r a wi t h al l her passenger s but one ;

and he had t o st op f or sever al weeks on hi s east war d

mar ch at Pungo Adongo, t o r epr oduce hi s di spat ches

and maps — a f eat equal t o t hat of Car l yl e i n r e-

wr i t i ng t he vol ume of hi s " Fr ench Revol ut i on" af t er

i t s dest r uct i on by J. S. Mi l l ' s housemai d. The par t y

l ef t Loanda l oaded wi t h pr esent s, and wi t h t he good

wi shes of t he peopl e, hi gh and l ow. The bi shop, who

was act i ng gover nor of t he pr ovi nce, gave Li vi ng-

st one or der s f or suppl i es by t he way whi l e i n Angol a,

and i nt r oduct i ons t o t he of f i ci al s on t he east coast i f

he shoul d ever get t her e ; a hor se, uni f or m, and ot her

pr esent s f or Sekel et u ; and t o hi s men, sui t s of cl ot h-

i ng, i n addi t i on t o t hose of st r i ped cal i co, wi t h r ed

caps, i n whi ch Mr . Gabr i el had al r eady ar r ayed t hem.

The mer chant s sent speci mens of t hei r war es, and

t wo donkeys, t he onl y beast of bur den whi ch i s

pr oof agai nst t he poi sonous bi t e of t he t set se- f l y.

Thus l oaded, t hey set of f , on Sept ember 20, 1854,

maki ng a sout her n det our al ong t he coast , and

t hr ough t he pr ovi nces of Massangano, Cassange,

and of Gol ungo Al t o, bef or e r et ur ni ng t o t hei r ol d

r out e beyond t he Por t uguese bor der .

Ever ywher e Li vi ngst one was st r uck wi t h t he r i ch-

102 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

ness of t he count r y and t he bl i ght i ng i nf l uence of t he

sl ave- t r ade. Hi s pr ogr ess was t edi ousl y sl ow, as t he

men became f oot sor e on t he dr y r oads, and had f r e-

quent at t acks of f ever , t hr ough whi ch he nur sed

t hem successf ul l y, br i ngi ng home ever y man of t he

t went y- seven saf e t o Li nyant i . He was not so suc-

cessf ul wi t h Sekel et u' s hor se, whi ch si ckened and

di ed af t er det ai ni ng t hem sever al days. Then came

hi s hal t at Pungo Adongo, t o r epr oduce hi s de-

spat ches, and t hen mor e at t acks of f ever , so t hat he

di d not get cl ear of Angol a t i l l Febr uar y, 1855. *

He l ef t t he pr ovi nce wi t h ver y mi xed f eel i ngs —

♦Wr i t i ng t o Mr s. Li vi ngst one f r om Bashi nge, 20t h Mar ch,

1855, he gi ves some pai nf ul par t i cul ar s of t he sl ave- t r ade.

Ref er r i ng t o a sl ave- agent wi t h whom he had been, he says :

" Thi s agent i s about t he same i n appear ance as Mabal we,

and speaks Por t uguese as t he Gr i quas do Dut ch. He has t wo

chai nsf ul of women goi ng t o be sol d f or t he i vor y. For mer l y

t he t r ade went f r om t he i nt er i or i nt o t he Por t uguese t er r i t or y ;

now i t goes t he opposi t e way. Thi s i s t he ef f ect of t he Por t u-

guese l ove of t he t r ade: t hey cannot send t hem abr oad on

account of our shi ps of war on t he coast , yet wi l l sel l t hem t o

t he best advant age. These women ar e decent - l ooki ng, as

much so as t he gener al r un of Kur uman l adi es, and wer e

caught l at el y i n a ski r mi sh t he Por t uguese had wi t h t hei r

t r i be; and t hey wi l l be sol d f or about t hr ee t usks each. Each

has an i r on r i ng r ound t he wr i st , and t hat i s at t ached t o t he

chai n, whi ch she car r i es i n t he hand t o pr event i t j er ki ng and

Page 63 of 182

hur t i ng t he wr i st . How woul d Nanni e l i ke t o be t hus t r eat ed?

and yet i t i s onl y by t he goodness of God i n appoi nt i ng our

l ot i n di f f er ent ci r cumst ances t hat we ar e not si mi l ar l y de-

gr aded, f or we have t he same evi l nat ur e, whi ch i s so degr aded

i l l t her t i as t o al l ow of men t r eat i ng t hem as beast s.

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 103

gr at i t ude t o t he Por t uguese, hi gh and l ow, f or t hei r

gr eat ki ndness t o hi msel f , and sangui ne ant i ci pat i ons

al t er nat i ng wi t h doubt s as t o t hei r vi ews wi t h r egar d

t o t he sl ave- t r ade; a keener sense t han ever of t he

bl i ght i ng ef f ect s of t hat t r ade, whi ch had r educed

t he mor al i t y of t he Angol a t r i bes, especi al l y i n t he

mat t er of t hef t , f ar bel ow t hat of t he Bechuana and

Makol ol o — ' ' At Kol obeng, wher e sl aver y i s un-

known, we never l ocked our door s ni ght or day" —

and a pai nf ul sense of t he cont r ast bet ween t he condi -

t i on of t he peopl e and t he br i ght ness and r i chness of

t he count r y.

They f ound t he Chi boque head- men, t hough much

mor e easy t o deal wi t h t han t hey had been i n 1853

on t hei r way t o t he coast , st i l l host i l e and exact i ng

whenever t hey saw a chance. On onl y one occasi on,

however , was t her e any danger of a col l i si on. Li v-

i ngst one had been pr ost r at ed by r heumat i c f ever and

obl i ged t o hal t f or ei ght days, dur i ng whi ch hi s men

managed t o quar r el wi t h t he near est head- man.

When t hey moved on at l ast , t hey wer e f ol l owed

by cr owds of Chi boque f r om al l t he nei ghbor i ng

vi l l ages. " They began by knocki ng down t he bur -

dens of t he hi ndmost of my men, and sever al shot s

wer e f i r ed, each par t y spr eadi ng out on bot h si des

of t he pat h. I f or t unat el y had a si x- bar r el ed r evol -

ver , and wi t h t hi s i n my hand st agger ed al ong t he

pat h wi t h t wo or t hr ee of my men and encount er ed

t h? chi ei The si ght of si ^ bar r el s gapi ng i nt o hi s

104 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

st omach, wi t h my own ghast l y vi sage l ooki ng dag-

ger s at hi s f ace, seemed t o pr oduce an i nst ant r evol u-

t i on i n hi s mar t i al f eel i ngs, f or he cr i ed out , ' Oh, I

have onl y come t o speak t o you, and wi sh peace onl y/

Bot h par t i es cr owded up t o t hei r chi ef s. I r equest ed

al l t o si t down, and t hen sai d t o t he chi ef , I f you

have come wi t h peacef ul i nt ent i ons, we have no

ot her . Go home t o your vi l l age. ' He r epl i ed, ' I am

af r ai d, l est you shoul d shoot me i n t he back. ' I r e-

j oi ned, ' I f I want ed t o ki l l you I coul d shoot you i n

t he f ace as wel l . ' Mosant u cal l ed out t o me, ' Don' t

gi ve hi m your back. ' But I sai d, ' Tel l hi m t o ob-

ser ve t hat I am not af r ai d of hi m, ' and t ur ni ng,

mount ed my ox and t ook my depar t ur e. "

Sl owl y t hey r et r aced t hei r st eps, passi ng t he Ba-

l onda, t o whose gr eat chi ef , Mat i amvo, Li vi ngst one

much wi shed t o pay a vi si t at hi s t own, Mai , f r om

whence he mi ght have descended t he Zambesi t o t he

Page 64 of 182

^l akol ol o count r y. But t he ext r a cost of t he devi a- '

l i on, and t he pr obabi l i t y of Mat i amvo not al l owi ng

hi m t o pass out of hi s count r y t o t he sout heast ,

hi nder ed hi m. He f ound t he t r i bes of t he Bal onda

and Luba mor e unci vi l i zed and bet t er - l ooki ng t han

any of t he t r i bes bet ween t hem and t he coast — a

mer r y r ace, spendi ng t hei r t i me i n gossi p, f uner al

assembl i es, and mar r i ages. " Thi s f l ow of ani mal

spi r i t s must be one r eason why t hey ar e such an

i ndest r uct i bl e r ace. "

On June 8t h t hey f or ded t he Lot embwa, her e a

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 105

mi l e wi de and t hr ee f eet deep, and r egai ned t hei r

ol d pat h, cr ossi ng t he gr eat pl ai n whi ch t hey had

seen under wat er on t hei r out war d mar ch, and on

whi ch he now suf f er ed f r om anot her sever e at t ack

of f ever . But no physi cal depr essi on coul d weaken

hi s zeal or power of obser vat i on, and i t was now

t hat t he sol ut i on of t he pr obl em of t he r i ver - syst em

of Af r i ca br oke upon hi m. ' 1 , had l ear nt , par t l y

f r om my own obser vat i on, par t l y f r om i nf or mat i on

der i ved f r om ot her s, t hat t he r i ver s of t hi s par t of

Af r i ca t ook t hei r r i se i n t he same el evat ed r egi on,

and t hat al l uni t ed i n t wo mai n dr ai ns, t he one f l ow-

i ng t o t he nor t h by t he Congo, t he ot her t o t he sout h

by t he Zambesi . I was now st andi ng on t he cent r al

r i dge t hat di vi ded t hese t wo syst ems, and was sur -

pr i sed t o f i nd how sl i ght i t s el evat i on was. I nst ead

of t he l of t y snow- cl ad mount ai ns we mi ght have

expect ed, we f ound f r equent l y f l at pl ai ns not mor e

t han 4, 000 f eet above sea l evel , and 1, 000 f eet

l ower t han t he west er n r i dge we had al r eady

passed. "

They wer e now get t i ng amongst f r i ends. At

Kat ema' s t own, besi des abundance of ot her f ood,

t hey wer e pr esent ed wi t h one of hi s whi t e cows,

whi ch i t t ook t hem t wo days t o cat ch, and t he chi ef s

hear t was made gl ad by a cl oak of r ed bai ze or na-

ment ed wi t h gol d t i nsel , a quar t er of a pound of

powder , and ot her ar t i cl es. They f ound t hei r pon-

t oon wher e t hey had l ef t i t , car ef ul l y pr eser ved, but

106 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

usel ess, t he mi ce havi ng eat en hol es i n i t . They

passed t hr ough Shi nt e' s count r y, di st r i but i ng now

t he cut t i ngs and seeds t hey had br ought f r om An-

gol a, cust ar d appl es, f i g, cof f ee, and pal m- oi l t r ees,

oni ons, gar l i c, and pepper . At Manenko' s t hey went

t hr ough a r i t e, consi st i ng of l i bat i ons of beer , i n

whi ch dr ops of t he bl ood of host s and guest s had

been i nf used, af t er whi ch t hey wer e r eckoned as

bl ood- r el at i ons.

At Li bont a, t he f i r st Makol ol o t own, t hey wer e

r ecei ved wi t h ext r avagant j oy, as men r i sen f r om t he

Page 65 of 182

dead. Pi t sane gave an account of t hei r advent ur es

i n a speech of an hour , dwel l i ng on t he ki ndness of

Mr . Gabr i el and ot her s t o t hem, and t he f act t hat

Li vi ngst one had opened a r out e f or t hem t o t he

coast , and had conci l i at ed al l t he chi ef s on t he r oad.

Next day was obser ved, by Li vi ngst one' s desi r e, as a

day of t hanksgi vi ng. * ' My men decked t hemsel ves

i n t hei r best , and I f ound t hat al t hough t hei r goods

wer e f i ni shed, t hey had managed t o save sui t s of

whi t e, whi ch wi t h t hei r r ed caps gave t hem r at her a

dashi ng appear ance. They t r i ed t o wal k l i ke t he

sol di er s t hey had seen at Loanda, and cal l ed t hem-

sel ves my ' br aves' ( bat l abani ) . Dur i ng t he ser vi ce

t hey al l sat wi t h t hei r guns over t hei r shoul der s, t o

t he unbounded admi r at i on of t he women and chi l -

dr en. " The abundance of suppl i es pour ed i n, dr ew

f r om t hem apol ogi es t hat t hey had not hi ng t o gi ve

i n r et ur n. " I t does not mat t er ; you have opened a

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 107

pat h f or us, and we shal l have sl eep, " was t he gr ace-

f ul r epl y.

Thei r pr ogr ess down t he Bar ot se Val l ey was one

l ong t r i umph, and t hey r eached Li nyant i on Sept em-

ber I I , 1855, havi ng t aken a year al l but ni ne days

on t hei r r et ur n j our ney. Li vi ngst one spent ei ght

weeks at Li nyant i wi t h Sekel et u, st ar t i ng f or t he east

coast on November 3, 1855.

The i nt er veni ng t i me was f ul l y occupi ed i n wr i t -

i ng l et t er s and despat ches, doct or i ng and pr eachi ng ;

and, i n t he l at t er par t , i n pr epar i ng f or hi s east war d

j our ney. He was agai n di sappoi nt ed i n f i ndi ng no

l et t er s f r om home, and onl y one, a year ol d, f r om

Kur uman. Thi s had been br ought , wi t h some pack-

ages of eat abl es, f r om Mr s. Mof f at t o t he sout her n

bank of t he Zambesi by a par t y of Mat abel e, t he ene-

mi es of t he Makol ol o, who cal l ed acr oss t he r i ver

t hat t hey wer e f r om Mof f at f or " Nake. " When t he

Makol ol o r ef used t o bel i eve t hem t hey l ef t t he pack -

ages, sayi ng, ' ' Her e ar e t he goods; we pl ace t hem

bef or e you; i f t hey per i sh, t he gui l t wi l l be your s. ' '

The Makol ol o caut i ousl y br ought t hem t o an i sl and

i n mi d- st r eam, bui l di ng a hut over t hem, i n whi ch

Li vi ngst one f ound t hem i n per f ect saf et y. * Besi des

* A l et t er f r om Mr s. Mof f at accompani ed t he box. I t i s

amusi ng t o r ead her mot her l y expl anat i ons about t he whi t e

shi r t s, and t he bl ue wai st coat , t he wool en socks, l emon j ui ce,

qui nce j am, and t ea and cof f ee, some of whi ch had come al l

t he way f r om Hami l t on; but t her e ar e passages i n t hat l i t t l e

not e t hat make one' s hear t go wi t h r api d beat :

108 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

pr ovi di ng hi m wi t h an escor t of one hundr ed and

t went y men, t en sl aught er cat t l e, t hr ee of hi s best

r i di ng oxen, and a l ar ge st or e of pr ovi si ons, Sekel et u

Page 66 of 182

wi t h hi s chi ef men accompani ed hi m f or some di s- '

t ance. Despi t e some r el apses dur i ng Li vi ngst one' s

absence t owar d t he sl ave- t r ade, and one or t wo r ai ds

agai nst hi s nei ghbor s, Sekel et u succeeded i n wi nni ng

" My Dear Son Li vi ngst one — Your pr esent posi t i on i s

al most t oo much f or my weak ner ves t o suf f er me t o cont em-

pl at e. Hi t her t o I have kept up my spi r i t s, and been enabl ed

t o bel i eve t hat our gr eat Mast er may yet br i ng you out i n

saf et y, f or t hough Hi s ways ar e of t en i nscr ut abl e, I shoul d

have cl ung t o t he many pr eci ous pr omi ses made i n Hi s wor d

as t o t empor al pr eser vat i on, such as t he 91st and 121st

Psal ms — but have been t aught t hat we may not pr esume con-

f i dent l y t o expect t hem t o be f ul f i l l ed, and t hat ever y pet i t i on,

however f er vent , must be wi t h devout submi ssi on t o Hi s wi l l .

My poor si st er - i n- l aw cl ung t enaci ousl y t o t he 91st Psal m,

and f i r ml y bel i eved t hat her dear husband woul d t hus be pr e-

ser ved, and never i ndul ged t he i dea t hat t hey shoul d never

meet on ear t h. But I appr ehend submi ssi on was want i ng.

' I f i t be Thy wi l l , ' I f ancy she coul d not say — and, t her ef or e,

she was ut t er l y conf ounded when t he news came. * She had

exer ci sed st r ong f ai t h, and was di sappoi nt ed. Dear Li vi ng-

st one, I have al ways endeavor ed t o keep t hi s i n mi nd wi t h

r egar d t o you. Si nce Geor ge [ Fl emi ng] came out i t seemed

al most hope agai nst hope. Your havi ng got so t hor oughl y

f ever i zed chi l l s my expect at i ons ; st i l l pr ayer , unceasi ng pr ayer ,

i s made f or you. When I t hi nk of you my hear t wi l l go up-

war d. ' Keep hi m as t he appl e of Thi ne eye, ' ' Hol d hi m i n t he

hol l ow of Thy hand, ' ar e t he ej acul at i ons of my hear t . "

* Rev. John Smi t h, mi ssi onar y at Madr as, had gone t o Vi za-

gapat am t o t he . or di nat i on of t wo nat i ve past or s, and when

r et ur ni ng i n a smal l vessel , a st or m ar ose, when he and al l on

boar d per i shed.

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 109

hi s war m r egar d. The chi ef had not onl y made hi s

j our neys possi bl e, f ur ni shi ng hi m wi t h suppl i es

whi ch, even i f he coul d have dr awn f or i t , hi s meagr e

sal ar y of f l oo a year coul d not have pr ocur ed, but

showed t he st r ongest per sonal devot i on t o hi m; i n-

si st i ng, f or i nst ance, on Li vi ngst one t aki ng hi s bl an-

ket f or a bed when t hey wer e acci dent al l y separ at ed

f r om t hei r baggage i n a t r emendous t r opi cal st or m.

" I was . much af f ect ed, " Li vi ngst one wr i t es, ' ' by t hi s

act of ki ndness. I f such men must per i sh by t he ad-

vance of ci vi l i zat i on, as some r aces of ani mal s do

bef or e ot her s, i t i s a pi t y. God gr ant t hat er e t hi s

t i me come t hey may r ecei ve t he Gospel — a sol ace f or

t he soul i n deat h. " *

* I n wr i t i ng f r om Li nyant i t o hi s wi f e, Li vi ngst one makes

t he best he can of hi s l ong det ent i on. She seems t o have

put t he mat t er pl ayf ul l y, wonder i ng what t he " sour ce of

at t r act i on" had been. He says :

" Don' t know what apol ogy t o make you f or a del ay I coul d

not shor t en. But as you ar e a mer ci f ul l y ki nd- hear t ed dame,

I expect you wi l l wr i t e out an apol ogy i n pr oper f or m, and

I shal l r ead i t bef or e you wi t h as l ong a f ace as I can exhi bi t .

Di sease was t he chi ef obst acl e. The r epai r of t he wagon

Page 67 of 182

was t he ' sour ce of at t r act i on' i n Cape Town, and t he set t l e-

ment of a case of l i bel anot her ' sour ce of at t r act i on. ' They

t r i ed t o engul f me i n a l aw- sui t f or si mpl y aski ng t he post -

mast er why some l et t er s wer e char ged doubl e. They wer e so

mar ked i n my account . I had t o pay

13 t o quas h i t . They

l onged t o hook me i n, f r om mer e hat r ed t o London mi s s i on-

ar i es . I di d not r emai n an. hour af t er I c oul d mov e. But I

do not wonder at y our anx i et y f or my s peedy r et ur n. I am

sor r y y ou hav e been di s appoi nt ed, but y ou k now no mor t al

can c ont r ol di s eas e. The Mak ol ol o ar e wonder f ul l y wel l

110 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

• On Nov ember 13t h Sek el et u l ef t t hem at Ses hek e

on t he bank s of t he Zambes i , al ong whi c h t hey pr o-

ceeded unt i l t hey c ame i n s i ght of f i v e c ol umns of

vapor — ' ' s mok e t hat s ounds , " or ' ' Mos i - oa- t uny a, "

as t he Mak ol ol o c al l ed t hem — r i s i ng f r om t he f al l s

of whi c h he and Os wel l had hear d y ear s bef or e.

" Bei ng per s uaded t hat Mr . Os wel l and my s el f wer e

t he v er y f i r s t Eur opeans who ev er s aw t he Zambes i

i n t he hear t of Af r i c a, I dec i ded t o us e t he s ame

l i ber t y as t he Mak ol ol o had done, and named t hem

t he Fal l s of Vi c t or i a, t he onl y Engl i s h name I hav e

af f i x ed t o any par t of t he c ount r y . . . . The

whol e s c ene i s ex t r emel y beaut i f ul ; t he bank s and

i s l ands dot t ed ov er t he r i v er ar e ador ned wi t h s y l v an

veget at i on of ev er y v ar i et y of c ol or and f or m. "

Changi ng hi s c anoe f or a l i ght er one manned by men

who k new t he r api ds wel l , he des c ended t hem t i l l he

r eac hed an i s l and i n mi d- r i v er , on t he v er y edge of

t he l i p ov er whi c h t he wat er r ol l s . ' ' Er om t he end

of t he i s l and wher e we f i r s t l anded, t hough wi t hi n

a f ew y ar ds of t he f al l s , no one c oul d s ee wher e t he

vas t body of wat er went ; i t s eemed t o l os e i t s el f i n a

t r ans v er s e f i s s ur e onl y 80 f eet wi de. Cr eepi ng wi t h

awe t o t he end of t he i s l and, I peer ed down i nt o a

l ar ge r ent whi c h had been made f r om bank t o bank

pl eas ed wi t h t he pat h we hav e al r eady made, and i f I am

suc c es s f ul i n goi ng down t o Qui l i mane, t hat wi l l be s t i l l bet t er .

I hav e wr i t t en y ou by ev er y oppor t uni t y , and am v er y s or r y

your l et t er s hav e been mi s c ar r i ed. "

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. HI

of t he br oad Zambes i , and s aw t hat a s t r eam i , 8oo

yar ds br oad l eaped down 320 f eet , and t hen bec ame

suddenl y c ompr es s ed i nt o a s pac e of 15 or 20 y ar ds .

. The f al l s ar e s i mpl y c aus ed by a c r ac k i n a har d

^ bas al t i c r oc k f r om t he r i ght t o t he l ef t bank , and t hen

pr ol onged f r om t he l ef t bank away t hr ough 30 or 40

mi l es of hi l l s . " Af t er w^ onder i ng and del i ght ed s ur -

vey , he pl ant ed t he peac h and apr i c ot s t ones and

cof f ee s eed he had br ought f r om Angol a, f eel i ng s ur e

t hat her e t hey woul d nev er want wat er . * ' I bar -

gai ned f or a hedge wi t h one of t he Mak ol ol o, and i f

he i s f ai t hf ul , I hav e gr eat hopes of Mos i - oa- t uny a' s

abi l i t i es as a nur s er y man. My onl y f ear i s t he hi ppo-

pot ami , whos e f oot pr i nt s I s aw on t he i s l and. When

Page 68 of 182

t he gar den was pr epar ed I c ut my i ni t i al s on a t r ee,

and t he dat e 1855, t he onl y i ns t anc e i n whi c h I i n-

dul ged i n t hi s pi ec e of v ani t y . "

Reas oni ng, as was hi s wont , ov er t he geol ogi c al

and geogr aphi c al pr obl ems whi c h t he f al l s f or c ed

upon hi m, he c ame t o t he c onc l us i on t hat bef or e t he

r i v er br ok e t hr ough t hi s r ent t he whol e c ount r y be-

, t ween i y ° and 21° s out h l at i t ude was one v as t f r es h-

'

wat er l ak e, a c onc l us i on whi c h he f ound on hi s r et ur n

home t hat Si r Roder i c k Mur c hi s on had al r eady pr o-

pounded t o t he Geogr aphi c al Soc i et y . *

* A di s c ov er y as t o t he s t r uc t ur e of t he c ount r y , l ong be-

l i ev ed i n by hi m, but now f ul l y v er i f i ed, was of muc h mor e

pr ac t i c al i mpor t anc e. I t had been as c er t ai ned by hi m t hat

sk i r t i ng t he c ent r al hol l ow t her e wer e t wo l ongi t udi nal r i dges

112 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

They now qui t t ed t he Zambes i and mov ed nor t h-

eas t , t he c amp get t i ng i nt o good mar c hi ng- or der .

Ther e wer e gr oups f r om s ev er al t r i bes s ubj ec t t o t he

Mak ol ol o, who t ook or der s f r om t hei r own head-

man and mes s ed by t hems el v es . * ' Eac h par t y k new

i t s own s pot i n t he enc ampment , and eac h t ook i t i n

t ur n t o pul l gr as s t o mak e my bed, s o t hat I l ay

l ux ur i ous l y . " And s o t hey pl odded on f or t he poi nt

wher e t hey wer e agai n t o c ome on t he Zambes i ,

bel ow t he l ong s er i es of r api ds . The wes t er n par t

of t hi s r egi on had onc e been dens el y peopl ed, and

ex t r emel y f av or abl e f or s et t l ement s , bot h f or mi s s i ons and

mer c handi s e. We s hal l hear muc h of t hi s s oon.

Sl owl y but s t eadi l y t he eas t war d t r amp i s c ont i nued, of t en

ov er gr ound whi c h was f ar f r om f av or abl e f or wal k i ng ex er -

ci s e. " Pedes t r i ani s m, " s ai d Li v i ngs t one, " may be al l v er y

wel l f or t hos e whos e obes i t y r equi r es muc h ex er c i s e; but f or

one who was bec omi ng as t hi n as a l at h t hr ough t he c ons t ant

per s pi r at i on c aus ed by mar c hi ng day af t er day i n t he hot

sun, t he onl y good I s aw i n i t was t hat i t gav e an hones t s or t

of a man a v i v i d i dea of t he t r ead- mi l l . "

When Li v i ngs t one c ame t o Engl and, and was wr i t i ng

book s , hi s t endenc y was r at her t o get s t out t han t hi n; and

t he di s gus t wi t h whi c h he s pok e t hen of t he " beas t l y f at "

seemed t o s how t hat i f f or not hi ng el s e t han t o get r i d of i t

he woul d hav e been gl ad t o be on t he t r ead- mi l l agai n. I n one

of hi s l et t er s t o Mr . Mac l ear he t hus s peak s of a par t of t hi s

j our ney : " I t was not l i k el y t hat I s houl d k now our c our s e

wel l , f or t he c ount r y t her e i s c ov er ed wi t h s hi ngl e and gr av el ,

bus hes , t r ees , and gr as s , and we wer e wi t hout pat h. Sk ul k i ng

out of t he way of v i l l ages wher e we wer e ex pec t ed t o pay

af t er t he pur s e was empt y , i t was ex c es s i v el y hot and s t eamy ;

t he ey es had t o be al way s f i x ed on t he gr ound t o av oi d bei ng

t r i pped. "

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 113

Page 69 of 182

t hey pas s ed agai n and agai n t he r emai ns of " a l ar ge

t own whi c h mus t hav e been i nhabi t ed f or a l ong

per i od, f or t he mi l l s t ones of gnei s s , t r ap, and quar t z

wer e wor n down 2^ i nc hes per pendi c ul ar . The

f or es t was now f as t r es umi ng i t s undi s put ed r ei gn.

The t r i bes amongs t whi c h t hey c ame on near i ng

t he Zambes i agai n, pr ov ed as hos t i l e as t he Chi -

boque ; i ndeed, at t he c onf l uenc e of t he Loangwa and

Zambes i he enc ount er ed t he mos t s er i ous danger

f r om nat i v es he had y et met wi t h. As t he nei ghbor -

i ng t r i bes gat her ed r ound t o hi nder hi s c r os s i ng,

and he was wai t i ng f or c anoes , he wr ot e i n hi s J our -

nal of J anuar y 14t h: ' Thank God f or Hi s gr eat

mer c i es t hus f ar . How s oon I may be c al l ed bef or e

Hi m, my r i ght eous J udge, I k now not . . . . On

Thy wor d al one I l ean. The c aus e i s Thi ne. See,

O Lor d, how t he heat hen r i s e up agai ns t me as t hey

di d agai ns t Thy Son. . . . I t s eems a pi t y t hat

t he f ac t s about t he t wo heal t hy l ongi t udi nal r egi ons

shoul d not be k nown i n Chr i s t endom. Thy wi l l be

done. " And l at e on t he s ame ev eni ng : " Fel t muc h

t ur moi l of s pi r i t i n v i ew of hav i ng al l my pl ans f or

t he wel f ar e of t hi s gr eat r egi on and t eemi ng popu-

l at i on k noc k ed on t he head by s av ages t o- mor r ow.

But J es us c ame and s ai d, ' Al l power i s gi v en unt o me

i n heav en and i n ear t h. Go y e t her ef or e, and t eac h

al l nat i ons . . . . And, l o, I am wi t h y ou al way ,

ev en unt o t he end of t he wor l d. ' I t i s t he wor d of a

gent l eman of t he mos t s ac r ed and s t r i c t es t honor ^ and

114 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t her e i s an end on' t . I wi l l not c r os s f ur t i v el y by

ni ght as I i nt ended. I t woul d appear as f l i ght , and

shoul d s uc h a man as I f l ee? Nay , v er i l y , I s hal l

t ak e obs er v at i ons f or l ongi t ude and l at i t ude t o- ni ght ,

t hough t hey may be t he l as t . I f eel qui t e c al m now,

t hank God. " So he t ook hi s obs er v at i ons i n hi s

smal l c amp, s ur r ounded by c r owds of ar med nat i v es ,

and ear l y nex t mor ni ng began t o s end of f hi s peopl e,

cat t l e, and baggage, i n t he one c anoe he had s ec ur ed,

t o an i s l and i n mi d- s t r eam, her e a mi l e i n br eadt h.

He r emai ned t o oc c upy t he pos t of honor , bei ng t he

l as t man t o ent er t he c anoe ; k eepi ng t he s ur r oundi ng

sav ages amus ed wi t h hi s wat c h, bur ni ng- gl as s , et c . ,

unt i l he c oul d s t ep i n hi ms el f and pus h of f , t hank i ng

t hem and wi s hi ng t hem peac e. By ni ght he and hi s

whol e par t y wer e s af el y enc amped on t he l ef t bank .

Her e Li v i ngs t one c ame upon t he r emai ns of a

chur c h and a br ok en bel l wi t h " I . H. S. " and a c r os s ,

showi ng t hat at one t i me t he Por t ugues e s et t l ement s

had ex t ended t o t hi s poi nt , and on t he 17t h t hey met

a man i n j ac k et and hat , but qui t e bl ac k , who had

come up f r om Tet t e, t he nor t her nmos t pos t on t he

r i v er . He t ol d t hem t hat t he Por t ugues e and nat i v es

on t hi s bank had been at war f or t he l as t t wo y ear s .

He adv i s ed t hem t o c r os s t o t he s out h bank , but t hey

coul d not get c anoes . They wer e now i n Mpende' s

count r y , t he mos t power f ul c hi ef of t he di s t r i c t , and

at f i r s t wer e t hr eat ened wi t h at t ac k . Number s of

Mpende' s f i ght i ng men gat her ed r oi i nd at hal f a

Page 70 of 182

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. I I 5

mi l e di s t anc e on t he 23d. " I or der ed an ox t o be

sl aught er ed as a means of i ns pi r i ng c our age, and

hav e no doubt we s houl d hav e been v i c t or i ous . . .

The r oas t i ng of meat went on f as t and f ur i ous , and

my y oung men s ai d, ' You hav e s een us wi t h el e-

phant s , but y ou don' t k now what we c an do wi t h

men. ' " He now s ent a l eg of t he ox t o Mpende by

men who c ame near as s pi es , and " pr es ent l y t wo ol d

men c ame f r om Mpende t o i nqui r e who I was . I r e-

pl i ed, ' I am a Lek oa' ( an Engl i s hman) . They s ai d,

' We don' t k now t hat t r i be. We s uppos ed y ou ar e a

Mouz unga ( Por t ugues e) , t he t r i be we ar e f i ght i ng

wi t h. ' " He t hen s howed t hem hi s s k i n, and t hey

sai d, ' No, we nev er s aw s k i n s o w^ hi t e as t hat . You

mus t be one of t he t r i be t hat l ov es t he bl ac k men. '

I of c our s e gl adl y r es ponded i n t he af f i r mat i v e. " So

t he men r et ur ned t o Mpende, who i n c ounc i l r es ol v ed

t o al l ow t hem t o pas s . " When we k new t he f av or -

abl e dec i s i on, I s ent Sek webu t o pur c has e a c anoe f or

one of my men who had bec ome v er y i l l , upon whi c h

Mpende r emar k ed, ' Thi s whi t e man i s t r ul y one of

our f r i ends . See how he l et s me k now hi s af f l i c -

t i ons . ' " Fr om t hi s t i me he di d al l he c oul d t o hel p

t hem, s endi ng or der s t o t he peopl e of a l ar ge i s l and

l ower down t o f er r y t hem ac r os s . Thi s was done on

t he 29t h, at a s pot wdi er e t he Zambes i was t wel v e

hundr ed y ar ds wi de, and f l owi ng at 3f mi l es an

hour . " I was v er y t hank f ul t o f i nd my s el f on t he

§out h bank , and hav i ng not hi ng el s e, I s ent bac k on^

116 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

of my t wo s poons and a s hi r t as a t hank - of f er i ng t o

^ v l pende. "

He was now amongs t unwar l i k e t r i bes who l ook ed

on hi s men as des per adoes , t he hk e of whom t hey had

nev er s een bef or e. * ' I s ee y ou ar e t r av el l i ng wi t h

peopl e who don' t k now how t o pr ay , " was t he r e-

mar k of a Bany ai hunt er on s eei ng t hei r headl ong

at t ac k on an el ephant and wi l d danc e ar ound t he

body of t he pr os t r at e beas t ; " I t her ef or e of f er ed t he

onl y t hi ng I had on t hei r behal f " ( s ome s nuf f whi c h

he had pour ed out as an of f er i ng t o t he Bar emo)

* ' and t he el ephant s oon f el l . " Ot her s of f er ed l oud

pr ay er s f or t hei r s uc c es s , t her eby el i c i t i ng Li v i ng-

st one' s admi r at i on at t hei r dev out bel i ef i n uns een

bei ngs . * ' My own peopl e, who ar e r at her a degr aded

l ot , r emar k ed t o me as I c ame up, ' God gav e i t t o us .

He s ai d t o t he ol d beas t , go up t her e, men ar e c ome

who wi l l k i l l and eat y ou. ' "

Hi s pr ogr es s now was s l ow but peac ef ul , gi v i ng

hi m l ei s ur e t o dwel l on and enj oy t he t eemi ng l i f e of

t he t r opi c al f or es t s , t he s ongs of bi r ds — not s o har -

moni ous , but as f ul l i n v ol ume as i n Engl and, s t i l l ed

dur i ng t he hot dr y hour s , but wi t h t he f i r s t s hower

Page 71 of 182

bur st i ng i nt o mer r y l ays and l ovi ng cour t shi p — t he

hum of i nsect s i n t he qui et est par t s of t he f or est ,

" whi ski ng about i n t he cl ear sunshi ne among t he

gr een gl anci ng l eaves ; but t her e ar e i nvi si bl e myr i -

ads, al l br i mf ul of enj oyment , wor ki ng wi t h never -

t i r i ng mandi bl es on l eave? and st al ks, and beneat h

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 117

t he soi l . I ndeed, t he uni ver sal i t y of or gani c l i f e

seems l i ke a mant l e of happy exi st ence enci r cl i ng t he

wor l d, and bet okeni ng t he pr esence of our beni gnant

Fat her ' s smi l e on t he wor ks of Hi s hands. " So

muses t he gr eat t r avel l er , i n a di f f er ent f r ame of

mi nd t o t he domi nant school of our moder n phi l oso-

pher s. *

Passi ng out of t he f or est count r y and over a r ough

st ony count r y wi t h no pat h, " on t he eveni ng of 2d

* I n t he ear l y par t of hi s l i f e he deemed i t hi s j oy and hi s

honor t o ai m at t he conver si on of i ndi vi dual soul s, and

ear nest l y di d he l abor and pr ay f or t hat , al t hough hi s vi si bl e

success was but smal l . But as he get s bet t er acquai nt ed wi t h

Af r i ca, and r eaches a mor e commandi ng poi nt of vi ew, he sees

t he necessi t y f or ot her wor k. The cont i nent must be sur -

veyed, heal t hy l ocal i t i es f or mi ssi on- st at i ons must be f ound,

t he t empt at i ons t o a cur sed t r af f i c i n human f l esh must be

r emoved, t he pr oduct s of t he count r y must be t ur ned t o

account ; i t s whol e soci al economy must be changed. The

accompl i shment of such obj ect s, even i n a l i mi t ed degr ee,

woul d be an i mmense ser vi ce t o t he mi ssi onar y; i t woul d be

such a pr epar i ng of hi s way t hat a hundr ed year s hence t he

spi r i t ual r esul t s woul d be f ar gr eat er t han i f al l t he ef f or t now

wer e concent r at ed on si ngl e soul s. To many per sons i t ap-

pear ed as i f deal i ng wi t h i ndi vi dual soul s wer e t he onl y

pr oper wor k of a mi ssi onar y, and as i f one who had been

doi ng such wor k woul d be l ower i ng hi msel f i f he accept ed

any ot her . Li vi ngst one never st opped t o r eason as t o whi ch

w^ as t he hi gher or t he mor e desi r abl e wor k ; he f el t t hat

Pr ovi dence was cal l i ng hi m t o be l ess of a mi ssi onar y j our ney -

man and mor e of a mi ssi onar y st at esman; but t he gr eat end

was ever t he same —

" t he end of t he geogr aphi cal f eat i s onl y t he

begi nni ng of t he ent er pr i se. ' '

118 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Mar ch I hal t ed about 8 mi l es f r om Tet t e, and f eel i ng

t oo f at i gued t o pr oceed, sent f or war d t o t he Com-

mandant t he l et t er s wi t h whi ch I had been f avor ed

by t he Bi shop of Angol a and ot her s. About 2 a. m.

on t he 3d we wer e r oused by t wo of f i cer s and a com-

pany of sol di er s, who had been sent wi t h t he mat e-

r i al s f or a ci vi l i zed br eakf ast , and a ' masheel a'

( l i t t er ) t o br i ng me t o Tet t e. My compani ons cal l ed

me i n al ar m, t hi nki ng we had been capt ur ed by

ar med men. When I under st ood t hei r er r and, and

had par t aken of a good br eakf ast , al l my f at i gue

Page 72 of 182

vani shed, t hough I had j ust bef or e been t oo t i r ed t o

sl eep. I t was t he most r ef r eshi ng br eakf ast I ever

par t ook of , and I wal ked t he l ast 8 mi l es wi t hout t he

l east f eel i ng of wear i ness, t hough t he pat h was so

r ough t hat one of t he of f i cer s r emar ked t o me, Thi s

i s enough t o t ear a man' s l i f e out of hi m. ' " *

♦Li vi ngst one r eached t he Por t uguese set t l ement of Tet t e

on t he 3d of Mar ch, 1856, and t he " ci vi Hzed br eakf ast " whi ch

t he commandant , Maj or Si car d, sent f or war d t o hi m, on hi s

way, was a l uxur y l i ke Mr . Gabr i el ' s bed at Loanda, and made

hi m wal k t he l ast ei ght mi l es wi t hout t he l east sensat i on of

f at i gue, al t hough t he r oad was so r ough t hat , as a Por t uguese

sol di er r emar ked, i t was l i ke " t o t ear a man' s l i f e out of

hi m. " At Loanda he had hear d of t he bat t l e of t he Al ma;

af t er bei ng i n Tet t e a shor t t i me he hear d of t he f al l of Sebas -

t opol and t he end of t he Cr i mean War . He r emai ned i n

Tet t e t i l l t he 23d Apr i l , det ai ned by an at t ack of f ever , r ecei v -

i ng ext r aor di nar y ki ndness f r om t he Gover nor , and, among

ot her t okens of af f ect i on, a gol d chai n f or hi s daught er Agnes,

t he wor k of an i nhabi t ant of t he t own. These gi f t s wer e dul y

acknowl edged. I t was at t hi s pl ace t hat Dr . Li vi ngst one l ef t

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 119

He st ayed a mont h wi t h Maj or Si car d, t he Com-

mandant , whose ki ndness t o t he whol e par t y he

gr at ef ul l y acknowl edged. Fr om hi m he hear d of t he

t hr ee year s' war , dur i ng whi ch Tet t e had been

sacked. " Had I at t empt ed t o r each t hi s coast i n-

st ead of Loanda i n 1853 I shoul d pr obabl y have been

cut of f . My pr esent appr oach was j ust at t he concl u-

si on of peace, and when t he Por t uguese aut hor i t i es

wer e i nf or med t hat I was expect ed t o come t hi s way,

t hey decl ar ed t hat no Eur opean coul d possi bl y pass

t hr ough t he t r i bes. Some nat i ves at l ast came down

t he r i ver , and i n al l usi on t o t he sext ant and ar t i f i ci al

hor i zon, sai d ' t hat t he son of God had come, who

was abl e t o t ake down t he sun f r om heaven and pl ace

i t under hi s ar m. ' Maj or Si car d t hen f el t sur e t hi s

was t he man he expect ed. " Her e Li vi ngst one l ef t al l

hi s Makol ol o but si xt een of t he best canoe men, on

l and whi ch t he Commandant gave t hem t o r ai se f ood

upon, al l owi ng t hem al so t o hunt and t r ade. They

wer e wel l cont ent wi t h t hei r pr ospect s, t hough many

mor e woul d have pr ef er r ed t o go on wi t h hi m, and

he was pl eased t o see t hat si xt y or sevent y had

st ar t ed t o hunt , whi l e t he r est had est abl i shed a br i sk

hi s Makol ol o f ol l ower s, wi t h i nst r uct i ons t o wai t f or hi m t i l l

he shoul d r et ur n f r om Engl and. Wel l ent i t l ed t hough he

was t o a l ong r est , he del i ber at el y gave up t he possi bi l i t y of

i t , by engagi ng t o r et ur n f or hi s bl ack compani ons.

I n t he case of Dr . Li vi ngst one, r est meant mer el y change

of empl oyment , and whi l e r est i ng and r ecover i ng f r om f ever ,

he wr ot e a l ar ge budget of l ong and i nt er est i ng l et t er s.

120 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Page 73 of 182

t r ade i n f i r ewood, bef or e he st ar t ed i n Apr i l f or

Senna i n Maj or Si car d' s own boat .

Senna he f ound i n even wor se pHght t han Tet t e,

t he hal f - cast e i nhabi t ant s payi ng f i nes t o t he Lan-

deens, who t r eat ed t he Por t uguese out si de t he f or t

as a conquer ed t r i be. He l ef t Senna on May nt h,

t he whol e popul at i on accompanyi ng hi m t o t he boat s.

They r eached Oui l emane on May 20t h, and f r om

t hence he sent back al l hi s men but Sekwebu t o Tet t e,

wher e t her e was f ood, t her e t o awai t hi s r et ur n. He

deposi t ed Sekel et u' s t usks wi t h Col onel Nunes, t he

Commandant , who pr omi sed i n t he event of hi s deat h

t o sel l t hem and hand t he pr oceeds t o hi s men. ' T

expl ai ned t hi s t o t he men, and t hey r epl i ed, * Nay,

f at her , you wi l l r et ur n t o t ake us back t o Sekel et u. '

They pr omi sed t o wai t t i l l I came back, and on my

par t I assur ed t hem t hat not hi ng but deat h woul d

pr event my r et ur n. " *

* I n l ooki ng f or war d t o t he wor k t o whi ch Pr ovi dence

seemed t o be cal l i ng hi m, a communi cat i on r ecei ved at Qui l i -

mane di st ur bed hi m not a l i t t l e. I t was f r om t he London

Mi ssi onar y Soci et y. I t i nf or med hi m t hat t he Di r ect or s wer e

r est r i ct ed i n t hei r power of ai di ng pl ans connect ed onl y

r emot el y wi t h t he spr ead of t he gospel , and t hat even t hough

cer t ai n obst acl es ( f r om t set se, et c. ) shoul d pr ove sur mount -

abl e, " t he f i nanci al ci r cumst ances of t he Soci et y ar e not such

as t o af f or d any gr ound of hope t hat i t woul d be i n a posi t i on

wi t hi n any def i ni t e per i od t o under t ake unt r i ed any r emot e

and di f f i cul t f i el ds of l abor . " Dr . Li vi ngst one ver y nat ur al l y

under st ood t hi s as a decl i nat ur e of hi s pr oposal s. Wr i t i ng

on t he subj ect t o Rev. Wi l l i am Thompson, t he Soci et y' s Si ^ ent

at Cape Town, he sai d:

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 121

Af t er si x weeks H. M. br i g ' ' Fr ol i c" ar r i ved, wi t h

an of f er f r om t he Admi r al at t he Cape of a passage

t o t he Maur i t i us, whi ch he gl adl y accept ed. He and

Sekwebu went on boar d on Jul y 12t h, t hr ough t he

br eaker s whi ch swept over t he pi nnace. * ' ' I s t hi s t he

way you go?' Sekwebu asked. I smi l ed and sai d,

' Don' t you see i t i s?' and t r i ed t o encour age hi m. "

They wer e hoi st ed on boar d i n a chai r , and war ml y

wel comed by Capt ai n Peyt on and hi s cr ew. Sekwebu

began t o pi ck up Engl i sh, and was becomi ng a f avor -

i t e wi t h t he sai l or s on t he voyage t o t he Maur i t i us,

whi ch t hey r eached on August 12t h, but he seemed

bewi l der ed, and of t en sai d, ' ' What a st r ange count r y

t hi s i s! Al l wat er t oget her . "

* ' When we r eached t he Maur i t i us a st eamer cam. e

" I had i magi ned i n my si mpl i ci t y t hat bot h my pr eachi ng,

conver sat i on, and t r avel wer e as near l y connect ed wi t h t he

spr ead of t he gospel as t he Boer s woul d al l ow t hem t o be. A

pl an of openi ng up a pat h f r om ei t her t he East or West Coast

f or t he t eemi ng popul at i on of t he i nt er i or was submi t t ed t o

t he j udgment of t he Di r ect or s, and r ecei ved t hei r f or mal

appr obat i on.

Page 74 of 182

' ' I have been seven t i mes i n per i l of my l i f e f r om savage

men whi l e l abor i ousl y and wi t hout swer vi ng pur sui ng t hat ,

pl an, and never doubt i ng t hat I was i n t he pat h of dut y.

" I ndeed, so cl ear l y di d I per cei ve t hat I v. as per f or mi ng

good ser vi ce t o t he cause of Chr i st , t hat I wr ot e t o my

br ot her t hat I woul d per i sh r at her t han f ai l i n my ent er pr i se.

I shal l not boast of what I have done, but t he wonder f ul

mer cy I have r ecei ved wi l l const r ai n me t o f ol l ow out t he

wor k i n spi t e of t he vet o of t he Boar d.

" I f i t i s accor di ng t o t he wi l l of God, means wi l l be pr o-

vi ded f r om ot her quar t er s. "

122 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

out t o t ow us i nt o t he har bor . The const ant st r ai n

on hi s unt ut or ed mi nd seemed now t o r each a cHmax,

f or dur i ng t he ni ght he became i nsane. I t hought at

I f i r st he was dr unk. He had descended i nt o a boat ,

and when I at t empt ed t o go down and br i ng hi m up

he r an t o t he st er n and sai d, ' No! no! i t i s enough

t hat I di e al one. You must not di e; i f you come I

shal l t hr ow mysel f i nt o t he wat er . ' Per cei vi ng t hat

hi s mi nd was af f ect ed, I sai d, ' Now, Sekwebu, we ar e

goi ng t o Ma Rober t . ' Thi s st r uck a chor d i n hi s

bosom, and he sai d, ' Oh, yes! Wher e i s she, and

wher e i s Rober t ?' and became mor e composed. I n

t he eveni ng, however , a f r esh f i t occur r ed. He t r i ed

t o spear one of t he cr ew, and t hen j umped over -

boar d, and t hough he coul d swi m wel l , pul l ed hi msel f

down, hand under hand, by t he chai n cabl e. We

never f ound t he body of poor Sekwebu. "

Af t er a mont h' s st ay at t he Maur i t i us wi t h Gen-

er al Hay, t he Gover nor , dur i ng whi ch he got r i d of

an enl ar ged spl een, t he r esul t of Af r i can f ever , he

t ook passage home i n t he P, and O. st eamer " Can-

di a, " and ar r i ved on December 12t h, t o f i nd hi msel f

t he most f amous man f or t he t i me i n t he Br i t i sh

I sl es.

Ti di ngs of a gr eat sor r ow had r eached hi m on t he

way. At Cai r o he hear d of t he deat h of hi s f at her .

He had been i l l a f or t ni ght , and di ed f ul l of f ai t h

and peace. " You wi shed so much t o see Davi d, "

sai d hi s daught er t o hi m as hi s l i f e was ebbi ng away.

LOANDA TO QUI LEMANE. 123

" Ay, ver y much, ver y much ; but t he wi l l of t he Lor d

be done. " Then af t er a pause he sai d, " But I t hi nk

I ' l l know what ever i s wor t h knowi ng about hi m.

When you see hi m, t el l hi m I t hi nk so. " Davi d had

not l ess eager l y desi r ed t o si t once mor e at t he f i r e-

si de and t el l hi s f at her of al l t hat had bef al l en hi m on

t he way. On bot h si des t he desi r e had t o be cl assed

among hopes unf ul f i l l ed. But on bot h si des t her e

was a vi vi d i mpr essi on t hat t he j oy so nar r owl y

mi ssed on ear t h woul d be f ound i n a pur er f or m i n

Page 75 of 182

t he next st age of bei ng.

CHAPTER VI I .

HOME.

1857- 59-

I n consequence of an acci dent t o t he P. and O.

st eamer i n t he Bay of Tuni s, t he passenger s wer e

l anded at Mar sei l l es, and sent home by Par i s and

Dover . On l andi ng, Li vi ngst one hast ened t o Sout h-

ampt on, wher e hi s wi f e was wai t i ng. " Man must

wor k, but woman must weep. " What t he gr eat ex-

pl or er ' s wi f e had bor ne i n t hose f i ve year s may be

gat her ed f r om t he f ew l i nes of a l i t t l e poem of wel -

come, whi ch has somehow got i nt o pr i nt , and so may

be used her e :

" You' l l never l eave me, dar l i ng — t her e' s a pr omi se i n your eye ;

I may t end you whi l e I ' m l i vi ng, you wi l l wat ch me when

I di e.

How di d I l i ve wi t hout you t hr ough t hose l ong, l ong year s

of woe?

I t seems as t ho' ' t woul d ki l l me t o be par t ed f r om you now.

And i f deat h but ki ndl y l ead me t o t he bl essed home on hi gh,

What a hundr ed t housand wel comes wi l l awai t you i n t he

sky ! "

They r eached London on December 9t h, wher e t he

" wel l - done" of a pr oud and gr at ef ul nat i on br oke on

t he si mpl e pi ous mi ssi onar y wi t h bewi l der i ng f or ce

124

HOME, 125

and unani mi t y. On t he 15t h, at a speci al meet i ng of

wel come at t he Royal Geogr aphi cal Soci et } ^ Si r

Roder i ck Mur chi son, i n pr esent i ng t he Pat r on' s

Gol d Medal , whi l e dwel l i ng on t he t housands of

mi l es of t he dar k and hi t her t o unexpl or ed cont i nent

now accur at el y l ai d down i n char t s, i nsi st ed above

al l on t he Doct or ' s her oi c f ai t hf ul ness t o hi s nat i ve

f ol l ower s, dr awi ng f r om hi m t he pr ot est t hat Oswel l ,

St eel e, or Var don ( al l pr esent ) coul d have done al l

t hat he had done. On t he i 6t h t he London ^ l i ssi on-

ar y Soci et y, wi t h Lor d Shaf t esbur y i n t he chai r , wel -

comed hi m at a speci al meet i ng. A gat her i ng was

hel d at t he Mansi on- House t o consi der t he best f or m

of a t est i moni al , and ot her publ i c r ecept i ons t hr eat -

ened hi m f r om al l si des. *

* Next day, i 6t h December , Dr . Li vi ngst one had hi s r ecep-

t i on f r om t he London Mi ssi onar y Soci et y i n Fr eemasons'

Hal l . Lor d Shaf t esbur y was i n t he chai r :

" What bet t er t hi ng can we do, " asked t he nobl e Ear l , " t han

Page 76 of 182

t o wel come such a man t o t he shor es of our count r y? What

bet t er t han t o r ecei ve hi m wi t h t hanksgi vi ng and r ej oi ci ngs

t hat he i s spar ed t o r ef r esh us wi t h hi s pr esence, and gi ve

hi s st r engt h t o f ut ur e exer t i ons? What season mor e appr o-

pr i at e t han t hi s, when at ever y hear t h, and i n ever y congr e-

gat i on of wor shi pper s, t he name of Chr i st wi l l be honor ed wi t h

mor e t han or di nar y devot i on, t o r ecei ve a man whose l i f e and

l abor s have been i n humbl e, hear t y, and wi l l i ng obedi ence t o

t he angel s' song, ' Gl or y t o God i n t he hi ghest , on ear t h peace,

good- wi l l t owar d men' ?"

Lor d Shaf t esbur y' s wor ds at t he cl ose of t hi s meet i ng, i n

honor of Mr s. Li vi ngst one, deser ve t o be per pet uat ed :

" That l ady, " he sai d, " was bor n wi t h one di st i ngui shed

126 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Fr om t hese he br oke away i n Januar y, t o vi si t hi s

mot her and f ami l y at Hami l t on. Hi s f at her had

di ed whi l e he was on hi s way home. As he l ooked at

t he empt y chai r t he st r ong man wept . " We bl ess

xt hee, O Lor d, f or our par ent s ; we gi ve t hee t hanks

f or t he dead who has di ed i n t he Lor d, " he pr ayed

t hat ni ght i n conduct i ng t hei r f ami l y wor shi p. *

On hi s r et ur n t o London, at t he end of Januar y,

he under t ook, somewhat unwi l l i ngl y, t o wr i t e an ac-

count of hi s t r avel s, ur ged t her et o by Si r R. Mur chi -

name, whi ch she had changed f or anot her . She was bor n a

Mof f at , and she became a Li vi ngst one. She cheer ed t he ear l y -

par t of our f r i end' s car eer by her spi r i t , her counsel , and her

soci et y. Af t er war d, when she r eached t hi s count r y, she

passed many year s wi t h her chi l dr en i n sol i t ude and anxi et y,

suf f er i ng t he gr eat est f ear s f or t he wel f ar e of her husband,

and yet endur i ng al l wi t h pat i ence and r esi gnat i on, and even

j oy, because she had sur r ender ed her best f eel i ngs, and sacr i -

f i ced her own pr i vat e i nt er est s, t o t he advancement of ci vi l i za-

t i on and t he gr eat i nt er est s of Chr i st i ani t y. "

* At f i r st Li vi ngst one t hought t hat hi s st ay i n Engl and

coul d be onl y f or t hr ee or f our mont hs, as he was eager t o be

at Qui l i m. ane bef or e t he unheal t hy season set i n, and t hus

' ' f ul f i l l hi s pr omi se t o r et ur n t o hi s Makol ol o at Tet t e. But

on r ecei vi ng an assur ance f r om t he Por t uguese Gover nment

^whi ch, however , was never f ul f i l l ed by t hem) t hat hi s men

woul d be l ooked af t er , he made up hi s mi nd f or a somewhat

l onger st ay. But i t coul d not be cal l ed r est . As soon as he

coul d set t l e down he had t o set t o wor k wi t h a book. So

l ong bef or e as May, 1856, Si r Roder i ck Mur chi son had wr i t -

t ea t o hi m t hat " Mr . John Mur r ay, t he gr eat publ i sher , i s most

anxi ous t o i nduce you t o put t oget her al l your dat a, and t o

make a good book, " addi ng hi s own st r ong advi ce t o compl y

wi t h t he r equest .

HOME. 137

son and Mr . John Mur r ay. " I woul d sooner have

cr ossed Af r i ca agai n, " he mur mur ed, but buckl ed t o

hi s t ask.

Page 77 of 182

' ' I begi n t o- mor r ow t o wr i t e my book, and as I

have no men wai t i ng f or me at Tet t e, whom I

pr omi sed t o r ej oi n i n Apr i l next , you wi l l see I shal l

have enough t o do t o get t hr ough my wor k her e. . .

Her e t hey l aud me t i l l I shut my eyes f or onl y t r yi ng

t o do my dut y. They ought t o vot e t hanks t o t he

Boer s, who set me f r ee t o di scover t hi s f i ne new coun-

t r y. They wer e det er mi ned t o shut t he count r y and

I t o open i t . . . . I got t he gol d medal as you

pr edi ct ed, and t he f r eedom of t he t own of Hami l t on,

whi ch ensur es me pr ot ect i on f r om t he payment of

f ees i f put i n pr i son. " So he wr ot e t o Si r T. Mac -

l ear on Januar y 21st , and set t o wor k on hi s book,

but not even hi s ener gy coul d f i ni sh t hi s unaccus -

t omed wor k i n t he t i me he had gi ven hi msel f . He

t ook l odgi ngs at Chel sea, and gave hi msel f t o hi s

wor k, and t o t he enj oym. ent of f ami l y l i f e once mor e,

t he onl y dr awback bei ng t he wel l - meant ef f or t s of

gent l e and si mpl e t o make a l i on of hi m. * I t was not

* I n wr i t i ng hi s book, he somet i mes wor ked i n t he house of

a f r i end, but gener al l y i n a London or subur ban l odgi ng, of t en

wi t h hi s chi l dr en about hi m, and al l t hei r noi se ; f or , as i n

t he Bl ant yr e mi l l , he coul d abst r act hi s at t ent i on f r om sounds

of what ever ki nd, and go on cal ml y wi t h hi s wor k. Busy

t hough he was, t hi s must have been one of t he happi est t i mes

i n hi s l i f e. Some of hi s chi l dr en st i l l r emember hi s wal ks and

r omps wi t h t hem i n t he Bar net woods, near whi ch t hey l i ved

128 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t i l l t he l at er summer t hat he was agai n compar a-

t i vel y f r ee, and t hen t he r ound of meet i ngs and

speeches began agai n. The f r eedom of t he Ci t y

of London was pr esent ed t o hi m i n a gol d box. I n

August he was t he guest of t he Br i t i sh Associ at i on

at t hei r Dubl i n meet i ng. I n Sept ember t he Cor por a-

t i on of Gl asgow, t he Uni ver si t y, and ot her publ i c

bodi es ent er t ai ned hi m, and he was pr esent ed wi t h

anot her gol d box wi t h t he f r eedom of t he ci t y, and

wi t h 2, 000 by t he ci t i zens as ^ a t est i moni al . At

Bl ant y r e, hi s nat i v e v i l l age, t he Li t er ar y I ns t i t ut i on

gav e a r ec ept i on, and managed t o get out of hi m t he

st or y of hi s enc ount er wi t h t he l i on. Edi nbur gh

f ol l owed, and got t hr ee s peec hes out of hi m; t hen

Leeds , Li v er pool , and Bi r mi ngham; af t er whi c h he

wr ot e t o Si r R. Mur c hi s on, " Far ewel l t o publ i c

spout i ng f or ev er . I am dead t i r ed of i t . " Ox f or d

and Cambr i dge, howev er , wer e s t i l l t o be done i n

Nov ember and Dec ember , whenc e he r et i r ed wi t h

Doc t or ' s degr ees . The l at t er Uni v er s i t y c har med

hi m par t i c ul ar l y , as he f ound hi ms el f i n t he c on-

geni al s oc i et y of Sedgwi c k , Sel wy n, and Whewel l ,

and he gav e a memor abl e addr es s i n t he Senat e-

Hous e, whi c h bor e r emar k abl e f r ui t . I t was an

ur gent appeal f or v ol unt eer s i n mi s s i onar y wor k . " I t

par t of t he t i me — how he woul d s uddenl y pl unge i nt o t he

f er ny t hi c k et , and s et t hem l ook i ng f or hi m, as peopl e l ook ed

f or hi m af t er war d when he di s appear ed i n Af r i c a, c omi ng out

al l at onc e at s ome unex pec t ed f ^ or ner of t he t hi c k et .

Page 78 of 182

HOME. 129

i s depl or abl e t o t hi nk t hat one of t he nobl es t of our

mi s s i onar y bodi es , t he Chur c h Mi s s i onar y Soc i et y ,

i s c ompel l ed t o s end t o Ger many f or mi s s i onar i es .

. . . The s or t of men who ar e want ed f or mi s -

si onar i es ar e s uc h as I s ee bef or e me. . . . I beg

t o di r ec t y our at t ent i on t o Af r i c a. I k now t hat i n

a f ew y ear s I s hal l be c ut of f i n t hat c ount r y , whi c h i s

now open. Do not l et i t be s hut agai n. I go bac k t o

Af r i c a t o t r y t o open a pat h f or c ommer c e and Chr i s -

t i ani t y ; do y ou c ar r y out t he wor k whi c h I hav e

begun. I l eav e i t wi t h y ou. " *

The publ i c at i on of hi s book made hi m at onc e a

r i c h man, hav i ng r egar d t o hi s needs and habi t s .

Thi s , and t he appoi nt ment of Cons ul f or t he eas t

coas t of Af r i c a whi c h was of f er ed hi m by Lor d Pal -

mer s t on, det er mi ned hi m, af t er muc h del i ber at i on,

t o r es i gn hi s c onnec t i on wi t h t he London Al i s s i onar y

Soc i et y . They par t ed on t he mos t f r i endl y t er ms ,

* I t has s omet i mes been a c ompl ai nt t hat s o muc h of t he

book i s oc c upi ed wi t h mat t er s of s c i enc e, geogr aphi c al i n-

qui r i es , des c r i pt i ons of pl ant s and ani mal s , ac c ount s of r i v er s

and mount ai ns , and s o l i t t l e wi t h what di r ec t l y c onc er ns t he

wor k of t he mi s s i onar y . I n r epl y t o t hi s , i t may be s t at ed, i n

t he f i r s t pl ac e, t hat i f t he i nf or mat i on gi v en and t he v i ews

ex pr es s ed on mi s s i onar y t opi c s wer e al l put t oget her , t hey

woul d c ons t i t ut e no i ns i gni f i c ant c ont r i but i on t o mi s s i onar y

l i t er at ur e. But t her e was anot her c ons i der at i on. Li v i ngs t one

r egar ded hi ms el f as but a pi oneer i n mi s s i onar y ent er pr i s e.

Dur i ng s i x t een y ear s he had done muc h t o br i ng t he k nowl -

edge of Chr i s t t o t r i bes t hat had nev er hear d of Hi m — pr ob-

abl v no mi s s i onar y i n Af r i c a had ev er pr eac hed t o s o many

bl ac k s .

130 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t hough hi s ac t i on was mi s under s t ood and s har pl y

cr i t i c i s ed i n t he ( s o- c al l ed) r el i gi ous pr es s . And

now hi s pr epar at i ons f or r et ur ni ng began i n ear nes t .

Hi s c ommi s s i on was s i gned i n Febr uar y , and Lor d

Cl ar endon s ent hi m t o t he Admi r al t y t o mak e hi s ar -

r angement s , addi ng, ' ' J ^ s t c ome her e and t el l me

what y ou want , and I wi l l gi v e i t t o y ou. " He al s o

f ur ni s hed hi m wi t h an of f i c i al l et t er t o Sek el et u,

t hank i ng hi m, i n t he Queen' s name, f or hi s k i ndnes s

t o her s er v ant , and hopi ng t hat he woul d hel p t o k eep

" God' s hi ghway ' '

— t he r i v er Zambes i

— f r ee t o al l

peopl e, and t o s uppr es s t he s l av e- t r ade, whi c h t he

Br i t i s h, as a Chr i s t i an and c ommer c i al peopl e, hat ed.

He f ound t he Admi r al t y r eady t o s end out a l ar ge

and ex pens i v e ex pedi t i on, but c ut i t down t o s t r i c t l y

nec es s ar y l i mi t s . *

* [ Honor s wer e s hower ed upon Li v i ngs t one wher ev er he

went : at Dubl i n, Gl as gow ( f r om Cor por at i on, Uni v er s i t y ,

Fac ul t y of Phy s i c i ans and Sur geons , et c . ) , Manc hes t er , Ham-

Page 79 of 182

i l t on, Bl ant y r e, Edi nbur gh, and Cambr i dge. A br i ef ac c ount

of onl y one of t hes e i s her e i ns er t ed. ]

To t he Uni t ed Pr es by t er i ans of Gl as gow he s pok e of mi s -

si on wor k i n Af r i c a. At one t i me he had been s omewhat

di s appoi nt ed wi t h t he Bec huana Chr i s t i ans , and t hought t he

r es ul t s of t he mi s s i on had been ex agger at ed, but when he

went i nt o t he i nt er i or and s aw heat heni s m i n al l i t s unmi t i -

gat ed f er oc i t y , he c hanged hi s opi ni on, and had a hi gher opi n-

i on t han ev er of what t he mi s s i on had done. Suc h gat her i ngs

as t he pr es ent wer e v er y enc our agi ng; but i n Af r i c a mi s s i on

wor k was har d wor k wi t hout ex c i t ement ; and t hey had j us t

t o r es ol v e t o do t hei r dut y wi t hout ex pec t i ng t o r ec ei v e gr at -

i t ude f r om t hos e whom t hey l abor ed t o s er v e. When gr at i -

HOME. 131

As t he day of hi s depar t ur e dr ew near , hi s f r i ends

i n t he Roy al and t he Geogr aphi c al Soc i et i es pr es s ed

f or a l as t gat her i ng t o bi d hi m God- s peed, and i t was

ar r anged t o ent er t ai n hi m at a publ i c di nner on Feb-

r uar y 13t h. On t he mor ni ng of t hat day he had an

i nt er v i ew wi t h t he Queen, who as s ur ed hi m of her

good wi s hes ; and i n t he ev eni ng a c ompany of t hr ee

hundr ed and f i f t y , i nc l udi ng t he mos t emi nent men

i n Engl and, gat her ed at t he Fr eemas ons ' Tav er n

under t he pr es i denc y of Si r R. Mur c hi s on, who dwel t

agai n on hi s r et ur n f r om Loanda wi t h hi s men,

' l eav i ng f or hi ms el f i n t hat c ount r y a gl or i ous name,

t ude c ame, t hey wer e t hank f ul t o hav e i t ; but when i t di d not

come t hey mus t go on doi ng t hei r dut y , as unt o t he Lor d.

Hi s r epl y t o t he c ot t on- s pi nner s i s i nt er es t i ng as s howi ng

how f r es h hi s s y mpat hy s t i l l was wi t h t he s ons of t oi l , and

what r es pec t he had f or t hei r pos i t i on. He c ongr at ul at ed

hi ms el f on t he Spar t an t r ai ni ng he had got at t he Bl ant y r e

mi l l , whi c h had r eal l y been t he f oundat i on of al l t he wor k

he had done. Pov er t y and har d wor k wer e of t en l ook ed down

on — he di d not k now why — f or wi c k ednes s v / as t he onl y t hi ng

t hat ought t o be a r epr oac h t o any man. Thos e t hat l ook ed

down on c ot t on- s pi nner s wi t h c ont empt wer e men who, had

t hey been c ot t on- s pi nner s at t he begi nni ng, woul d hav e been

cot t on- s pi nner s t o t he end. The l i f e of t oi l was what bel onged

t o t he gr eat maj or i t y of t he r ac e, and t o be poor was no r e-

pr oac h. The Sav i our oc c upi ed t he humbl e pos i t i on t hat t hey

had been bor n i n, and he l ook ed bac k on hi s own pas t l i f e

as hav i ng been s pent i n t he s ame pos i t i on i n whi c h t he

Sav i our l i v ed.

' ' My gr eat obj ec t , " he s ai d, " was t o be l i k e Hi m — t o i mi -

t at e Hi m~ar t af " as He c oul d be i mi t at ed. W e hav e noT t he

pmv er " oT Voy k i ng" mr r ac l es , but we c an do~ a l i t t l e^ m t he way

" oF Eeai r ng~t he s i c k , and I s ought a medi c al educ at i on i n or der

132 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

and pr ov i ng t o t he peopl e of Af r i c a what an Engl i s h

Chr i s t i an i s , " and on t he nobl enes s of t he man who,

' ' af t er ei ght een mont hs of l audat i on f r om al l c l as s es

Page 80 of 182

of hi s c ount r y men, and af t er r ec ei v i ng al l t he honor s

our Uni v er s i t i es and c i t i es c oul d s hower on hi m, i s

st i l l t he s ame hones t t r ue- hear t ed Dav i d Li v i ngs t one

^ as when he i s s ued f r om t he wi l ds of Af r i c a. " The

Duk e of Ar gy l l and Bi s hop Wi l ber f or c e f ol l owed,

and t hen Pr of es s or Owen, wi t h c or di al t es t i mony t o

t he ac c ur ac y of hi s geol ogi c al obs er v at i ons and t he

happi nes s of hi s c onj ec t ur es , t emper ed onl y by r egr et

t hat he s houl d hav e des t r o3^ ed t he mor al c har ac t er of

t he l i on. Li v i ngs t one' s r epl y was di r ec t and s i mpl e

as ev er . He di d not l ook , he s ai d, f or any s peedy r e-

sul t f r om hi s mi s s i on, but was s angui ne f or t he

_ t hat I mi ght be l i k e Hi m. I n Af r i c a I hav e had har d wor k .

I don' t k now t hat any one i n Af r i c a des pi s es a man who wor k s

har d. I f i nd t hat al l emi nent men wor k har d. Emi nent geol -

ogi s t s , mi ner al ogi s t s , men of s c i enc e i n ev er y depar t ment ,

i f t hey at t ai n emi nenc e, wor k har d, and t hat bot h ear l y an( ?

l at e. That i s j us t what

- we di d. Some of us hav e l ef t t he

cot t on- s pi nni ng, but I t hi nk t hat al l of us who hav e been en-

gaged i n t hat oc c upat i on l ook bac k on i t wi t h f eel i ngs of c om-

pl ac enc y , and f eel an i nt er es t i n t he c our s e of our c ompani ons .

Ther e i s one t hi ng i n c ot t on- s pi nni ng t hat I al way s f el t t o be

a pr i v i l ege. We wer e c onf i ned t hr ough t he whol e day , but when

we got out t o t he gr een f i el ds , and c oul d wander t hr ough t he

shady woods , and r ov e about t he whol e c ount r y , we enj oy ed

i t i mmens el y . We wer e del i ght ed t o s ee t he f l ower s and t he

beaut i f ul s c ener y . We wer e pr epar ed- t o admi r e. We wer e

t aught by our c onf i nement t o r ej oi c e i n t he beaut i es of na-

t ur e, and when we got out we enj oy ed our s el v es t o t he f ul l es t

ex t ent . "

HOME. 133

f ut ur e. He and hi s c ompani ons mi ght get i n t he t hi n

end of t he wedge, whi c h Engl and w^ oul d dr i v e home.

He r ej oi c ed t hat hi s wi f e, al way s t he mai n s pok e i n

hi s wheel , was t o go wi t h hi m. She woul d be mos t

hel pf ul , as s he was f ami l i ar wi t h t he l anguage, abl e

t o wor k and r eady t o endur e, and wel l k new t hat out

t her e one mus t put one' s hand t o ev er y t hi ng. ' ' Gl ad

i ndeed am I t hat I am t o be ac c ompani ed by my

guar di an angel . " For hi ms el f , wi t h al l ey es r es t i ng

on hi m, he f el t bound t o do bet t er t han he had ev er

done.

The l as t pr epar at i ons wer e now hur r i ed on, and

t he l as t l et t er s wr i t t en. I n one of t hes e, t o hi s ol d

f r i end Young, he gav e s ome t es t ament ar y di r ec t i ons ,

endi ng, " my l ef t ar m" ( t he one whi c h had been i n-

j ur ed by t he l i on and had now^ a doubl e j oi nt ) " goes

t o Pr of es s or Owen, mi nd. Thi s i s t he wi l l of Dav i d

Li v i ngs t one. " To Si r Roder i c k : " Many bl es s i ngs

be on y ou and y our s , and i f we nev er meet agai n on

ear t h, may we t hr ough i nf i ni t e mer c y meet i n hea-

ven. " To whi c h t he Pr es i dent ans wer ed: " Ac c ept

my war mes t t hank s f or y our f ar ewel l not e. Bel i ev e

me, my dear f r i end, t hat no t r ans ac t i on i n my s ome-

what l ong and v er y ac t i v e l i f e has s o t r ul y r ewar ded

Page 81 of 182

me as my i nt er cour se wi t h you, f or f r om begi nni ng

t o end i t has been one cont i nual br i ght gl eam. "

The expedi t i on embar ked i n H. M. Col oni al

st eamer " Pear l " at Li ver pool on Mar ch l o, 1859.

They t ook Oswel l , t hei r youngest chi l d, wi t h t hem,

134 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

l eavi ng t he ot her s i n Engl and. Fr om on boar d i n

t he Mer sey, he wr ot e hi s l ast not e t o hi s el dest son :

" My dear Tom — We ar e of f agai n, and t r ust t hat

He who r ul es t he waves wi l l wat ch over us and r e-

mai n wi t h you, t o bl ess us and make us bl essi ngs t o

our f el l ow- men. The Lor d be wi t h you and be ver y

gr aci ous t o you. Avoi d and hat e si n, and cl eave t o

Jesus as your Savi our f r om gui l t . Tel l gr andma

we ar e of f agai n, and Janet wi l l t el l al l about us. "

So he went away agai n, havi ng, as t he r esul t of

hi s ei ght een mont hs at home — as was sai d wi t h no

gr eat exagger at i on at t he f ar ewel l di nner — f ound

Af r i ca t he dar k cont i nent , and l ef t i t t he most i nt er -

est i ng par t of t he gl obe t o Engl i shmen.

CHAPTER VI I I .

THE ZAMBESI EXPEDI TI ON TO LI NYANTI AND BACK.

1859- 61.

Consul Li vi ngst one, on t he deck of t he " Pear l , "

r et ur ni ng t o t he dar k cont i nent as t he r epr esent at i ve

of t he f i r st naval and col oni al power i n t he wor l d,

commander of a nat i onal expedi t i on, t hor oughl y f ur -

ni shed and adapt ed t o t l i e wor k, and wi t h a f r ee hand

t o car r y on t hat wor k of expl or i ng and ci vi l i zi ng ac -

cor di ng t o hi s own j udgment , i s per haps t he most

st r i ki ngl y successf ul f i gur e whi ch has appear ed i n

Engl and dur i ng t he 19t h cent ur y. The Scot ch peas -

ant ' s son, wi t hout r esour ces, except what wer e f ur -

ni shed by nat i ve Af r i cans, di scour aged by hi s em-

pl oyer s and hi s f ami l y, and st r i cken wi t h al most

cont i nual f ever , had opened a pat h acr oss Af r i ca, f or

t he most par t t hr ough count r i es i n whi ch no whi t e

man was ever know^ n t o have been bef or e hi m. What

mi ght not Consul Li vi ngst one, wi t h t he Queen' s gol d

band r ound hi s cap an" d Engl and behi nd hi m, now

accompl i sh ? Wi t h good r eason al l men' s hopes r an

hi gh, and, on t he whol e, wer e not di sappoi nt ed.

Never t hel ess, as i n t he case of so many of God' s

gr eat wor ker s, t her e i s no r epet i t i on of t hat f i r st t r i -

135

136 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Page 82 of 182

umphant success. The power s of evi l must er mor e

st r ongl y af t er t he f i r st sur pr i se, and God' s ser vant i s

al l owed t o be " evi l ent r eat ed by t yr ant s, and has t o

wander out of t he way i n t he wi l der ness, " t hankf ul

i n t he end, whi l e he hi msel f has been pur i f i ed i n t he

f i r e, and t aught hi s own weakness and hi s Lor d' s

st r engt h, i f hi s Mast er ' s wor k has onl y not gone back

i n hi s hands.

He had cut t he st af f of t he expedi t i on down t o a

commander and cr ew f or t he st eam l aunch ( t he

* ' Ma Rober t , ' ' whi ch was t aken on boar d t he " Pear l "

i n sect i ons) ; a bot ani st , Dr . Ki r k; * a mi ni ng geol o-

gi st , Mr . C. Li vi ngst one; and an assi st ant , Mr . R.

Thor nt on. To each of t hese he gave separ at e wr i t -

t en i nst r uct i ons as t o t hei r speci al wor k, i mpr essi ng

on al l t hat " Her Maj est y' s Gover nment at t ached

most i mpor t ance t o t he mor al i nf l uence whi ch mi ght

be exer ci sed on t he mi nds of t he nat i ves by a wel l -

r egul at ed and or der l y househol d of Eur opeans, set -

t i ng an exampl e of consi st ent mor al conduct , t r eat -

i ng t he peopl e wi t h ki ndness, t eachi ng t hem t o make

exper i ment s i n agr i cul t ur e, r el i evi ng t hei r want s,

expl ai ni ng t he mor e si mpl e ar t s, i mpar t i ng t o t hem

r el i gi ous i nst r uct i on as f ar as t hey ar e capabl e of

r ecei vi ng i t , and i ncul cat i ng peace and goodwi l l . " !

* The pr esent Si r John Ki r k, G. C. M. G. , F. R. S. , whose val u-

abl e car eer on t he east coast , as H. M. Pol i t i cal Agent , has

made i t s mar k ever ywher e i n t hose r egi ons. He i s t he sol e

sur vi vor of t he or i gi nal Zambesi Expedi t i on.

t Evi dent l y, Dr . Li vi ngst one f el t hi msel f i n a di f f i cul t posi -

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 137

They sai l ed on Mar ch l o, 1859, and r eached t he

east coast , t he scene of t hei r wor k, i n May. They

had t ouched at Si er r a Leone, and t aken on boar d

t wel ve Kr oomen f or t he r i ver navi gat i on, and had

r ecei ved an ent husi ast i c r ecept i on at t he Cape, whi ch

t he Doct or cont r ast s dr i l y i n hi s Jour nal wi t h hi s

l ast vi si t f i ve year s bef or e. Her e t he f i r st of hi s

ser i ous t r i al s met hi m. Mr s. Li vi ngst one was so

unwel l t hat he had t o l eave her and Oswel l wi t h Dr .

and Mr s. Mof f at , who had come down t o meet

t hem. * On t hei r ar r i val on t he east coast t hei r f i r st

t i on at t he head of t hi s ent er pr i se. He was awar e of t he t r ou-

bl e t hat had usual l y at t ended ci vi l as cont r ast ed wi t h naval

and mi l i t ar y expedi t i ons, f r om t he absence of t hat habi t of

di sci pl i ne and obedi ence whi ch i s so f i r ml y est abl i shed i n t he

l at t er ser vi ces. He had never ser ved under Her Maj est y' s

Gover nment hi msel f , nor had he been accust omed t o command

such men as wer e now under hi m, and t her e wer e some t hi ngs

i n hi s ant ecedent s t hat made t he dut y pecul i ar l y di f f i cul t . On

one t hi ng onl y he was r esol ved : t o do hi s own dut y t o t he ut -

most , and t o spar e no- pai ns t o i nduce ever y member of t he

Expedi t i on t o do hi s. I t was i mpossi bl e f or hi m not t o be

anxi ous as t o how t he t eam woul d pul l t oget her , especi al l y as

he knew wel l t he i nf l uence of a mal ar i ous at mospher e i n caus -

i ng i nt ense i r r i t abi l i t y of t emper . I n some r espect s, t hough

Page 83 of 182

not t he most obvi ous, t hi s was t he most t r yi ng per i od of hi s

l i f e.

* 0n t he 1st of May, 1858. t he " Pear l " sai l ed f r om Si mon' s

Bay, and on t he 14t h st ood i n f or t he ent r ance t o t he Zambesi ,

cal l ed t he West Luabo, or Hoski ns' s Br anch. Of t hei r pr ogr ess

Dr . Li vi ngst one gi ves hi s i mpr essi ons i n t he f ol l owi ng l et t er

t o hi s f r i end Mr . James Young:

" ' Pear l / l ot h May, 1858.

" Her e we ar e, of f Cape Cor nent es ( ' Whaur ' s t hat , I won-

138 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

obj ect was t o exami ne t hor oughl y t he f our channel s

by whi ch t he Zambesi r eaches t he sea. Whi l e t hi s

was i n pr ogr ess under Mr . Skead, R. N. , Sur veyor t o

t he Cape Gover nment , who had come on wi t h t hem

f r om Cape Town, t he " Ms. Rober t " was scr ewed t o-

get her and l aunched. The Kongone br anch was

f ound t o be t he best , and up t hi s t hey sai l ed t hr ough

t went y mi l es of mangr ove j ungl e, f ul l of st r ange

bi r ds and game, t o t he br oad Zambesi . Beyond l ay

a f er t i l e t r act f i f t y mi l es br oad, and t hi ckl y i nhabi t ed

ner ?' ) , and hope t o be of f t he Luabo f our days hence. We

have been most r emar kabl y f avor ed i n t he weat her , and i t

i s wel l , f or had our shi p been i n a gal e wi t h al l t hi s wei ght

on her deck, i t woul d have been per i l ous. Mr s. Li vi ngst one

was sea- si ck al l t he way f r om Si er r a Leone, and got as t hi n

as a l at h. As t hi s was accompani ed by f ever , I was f or ced t o

r un i nt o Tabl e Bay, and when I got ashor e I f ound her f at her

and mot her down al l t he way f r om Kur uman t o see us and

hel p t he young mi ssi onar i es, whom t he London Mi ssi onar y

Soci et y has not yet sent . Gl ad, of cour se, t o see t he ol d coupl e

agai n. We had a gr and t o- do at t he Cape. Ei ght hundr ed

gui neas wer e pr esent ed i n a si l ver box by t he hand of t he

Gover nor , Si r Geor ge Gr ey, a f i ne f el l ow. Sur e, no one mi ght

be mor e t hankf ul t o t he Gi ver of al l t han mysel f . The Lor d

gr ant me gr ace t o ser ve Hi m wi t h hear t and soul — t he onl y

r et ur n I can make ! . . . I t was a bi t t er par t i ng wi t h my

wi f e, l i ke t ear i ng t he hear t out of one. I t was so unexpect ed ;

and now we ar e scr ewi ng away up t he coast . . . , We ar e

al l agr eeabl e yet , and al l l ooki ng f or war d wi t h ar dor t o our

ent er pr i se. I t i s l i kel y t hat I shal l come down wi t h t he ' Pear l '

t hr ough t he Del t a t o doct or t hem i f t hey become i l l , and send

t hem on t o Ceyl on wi t h a bl essi ng. Al l have behaved wel l ,

and I am r eal l y t hankf ul t o see i t , and hope t hat God wi l l

gr aci ousl y make some bet t er use of us i n pr omot i ng Hi s

gl or y. "

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 139

by Por t uguese " col onos" or ser f s, eager t r ader s,

whi ch i n good hands " woul d suppl y al l Eur ope wi t h

sugar . " Her e, f or t y mi l es f r om t he bar , t he

' Tear F' had t o st op, and al l t he goods and suppl i es

on boar d wer e l anded on an i sl and, whence t hey wer e

gr adual l y t aken up, i n t he " Ma Rober t " and pi nnace,

t o Shupanga and Senna. Dur i ng t hi s wor k t he f i r st

Page 84 of 182

di f f i cul t y ar ose f r om t he desi r e of Li vi ngst one t o get

t hem al l out of t hi s hot bed of f ever as soon as possi -

bl e, and so pr essi ng on t he wor k. " The weak-

mi nded" st r uck f or no wor k on Sundays, and f ul l

hour s f or meal s. " I t i s a pi t y, " t he Doct or com-

ment s, " t hat some peopl e cannot see t hat t he t r ue and

honest di schar ge of t he dut i es of ever y- day l i f e i s

Di vi ne ser vi ce. " The naval of f i cer i n command now

l ef t hi m, and f r om t hat t i me t he dut i es of capt ai n

wer e added t o hi s ot her r esponsi bi l i t i es. Opposi t e

Shupanga t hey f ound war r agi ng bet ween a r ebel

hal f - cast e and t he Por t uguese, and, comi ng i nt o t he

t hi ck of t he f i ght i ng, t he Por t uguese gover nor i n

command, who was pr ost r at ed wi t h f ever , was car -

r i ed down t o t he st eamer by Li vi ngst one. I n t hi s

di st r i ct t hey f ound t he Por t uguese gener al l y easy -

goi ng mast er s t o t hei r sl aves, whi l e t he hal f - cast es

wer e al most al ways br ut al , j ust i f yi ng t he sayi ng,

" God made whi t e men and bl ack men, but t he devi l

made hal f - cast es. " St eadi l y, but sl owl y, t he " Ma

Rober t " st eamed up t o Tet t e, and on unt i l st opped

by t he Kebr abasa Rapi ds, anchor i ng at ni ght i n t he

140 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

st r eam. ' ' Why don' t you come on shor e and sl eep

l i ke ot her peopl e ?" t he nat i ves hai l ed f r om t he banks.

' ' We ar e hel d t o t he bot t om wi t h i r on ; you may see

we ar e not l i ke you Bazunga, " t he Makol ol o pr oudl y

answer ed; f or at Tet t e he had f ound hi s Makol ol o,

who, by t he hel p of Maj or Si car d, had mai nt ai ned

t hemsel ves, t hough t hi r t y of t hei r number had di ed

of smal l pox. " They t ol d us you woul d never come

back; but we t r ust ed you, and now we shal l have

sl eep, " t he sur vi vor s sai d, wel comi ng hi m wi t h en-

t husi asm. Ther e was no need t o t ake t hem back at

once t o Li nyant i , so t he next f ew mont hs wer e de-

vot ed t o a t hor ough expl or at i on of t he Zambesi up

t o t he Kebr abasa Rapi ds, whi ch convi nced hi m t hat ,

had he t r i ed t o descend t hat r i ver i n canoes on hi s

f or mer j our ney, he woul d have been cer t ai nl y l ost .

On t he ot her hand, Li vi ngst one was convi nced t hat

a mor e power f ul st eamer mi ght be t aken up dur i ng

t he f l oods, and so open t he r i ver f r om Kebr abasa up

t o t he Vi ct or i a Fal l s, i n t he hear t of Af r i ca and t he

Makol ol o count r y. So he wr ot e t o hi s gover nment ,

who i n due cour se r esponded by sendi ng hi m out t he

" Pi oneer . " Meant i me he t ur ned t o doi ng what new

wor k of expl or at i on he coul d wi t h t he " Ma Rober t . "

That unl ucky vessel had al r eady l ost t he name of

whi ch she had pr oved her sel f unwor t hy, and been r e-

chr i st ened t he " Ast hmat i c, " f r om t he puf f i ng and

gr oani ng wi t h whi ch she managed her si x or seven

mi l es an hour , bei ng easi l y passed by t he nat i ve

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 141

canoes. She consumed a monst r ous amount of f uel ,

and was al r eady l eaki ng badl y. However , bad as

she was, he woul d make t he best of her t i l l she sank,

Page 85 of 182

and so — not wi t hout sar cast i c comment on t he emi -

nent shi pbui l der , who had sol d her t o t he expedi t i on

a gr eat bar gai n ' ' f or t he l ove of t he cause" — he pr o-

ceeded t o expl or e i n her t he Shi r e, t he l ar gest nor t h-

er n af f l uent of t he Zambesi bet ween Tet t e and t he

coast . The Por t uguese decl ar ed t he r i ver t o be un-

navi gabl e. They had t r i ed i t , and f ound t hat not

even canoes coul d f or ce t hei r way t hr ough t he mass

of aquat i c pl ant s ; whi l e t he Manganj a who l i ved on

t he banks wer e as host i l e as t hey wer e war l i ke.

However , t he Doct or had l ear ned t o di st r ust t he

Por t uguese as wel l as t o r el y on hi msel f , and so

st ar t ed up t he Shi r e i n Januar y, 1859, navi gat i ng t he

' ' Ast hmat i c" hi msel f , t hough, as he wr ot e t o Mi ss

What el y : " As f ar as my l i ki ng goes, I woul d as soon

dr i ve a cab i n November f ogs i n London as be ski p-

per i n t hi s hot sun. " " Our Gover nment , " sai d t he

near est Por t uguese Commandant , " has or der ed us t o

assi st and pr ot ect you, but you go wher e we dar e not

f ol l ow, and how ar e we t o pr ot ect you?" *

* Ear l y i n 1859 t he expl or at i on of t he Shi r e was begun — a

r i ver hi t her t o absol ut el y unknown. The count r y ar ound was

r i ch and f er t i l e, t he nat i ves not unf r i endl y, but suspi ci ous.

They had pr obabl y never been vi si t ed bef or e but by man-

st eal er s, and had never seen Eur opeans. The Shi r e Val l ey

was i nhabi t ed by t he Manganj a, a ver y war l i ke r ace. Some

days' j our ney above t he j unct i or wi t h t he Zambesi , wher e t he

142 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

The " Ast hmat i c, " however , went " snor t i ng"

t hr ough t he duckweed easi l y enough, and up t he

r i ver , accompani ed on t he banks by cr owds of Man-

ganj a f ul l y ar med, who had sent away t hei r women

and passed wor d of t he st r ange i nvasi on f r om one

r i ver - vi l l age t o anot her . The duckweed di sappear ed

t went y- f i ve mi l es up t he r i ver , and t he Doct or l anded

and made f r i ends wi t h t he chi ef , Ti ngane, " an

el der l y, wel l - made man, gr ay- headed, and over si x

f eet hi gh, " who cal l ed hi s peopl e t oget her t o hear

what t he st r anger ' s obj ect s wer e. These had t o be

st at ed by an i nt er pr et er , as t he di al ect di f f er ed f r om

t hat of Tet t e, so t hat t he Doct or onl y under st ood

enough t o know whet her t he i nt er pr et er w^ as r epor t -

i ng f ai t hf ul l y. Thi s he di d on t he whol e, but wi t h

" an i nvet er at e t endency t o wi nd up wi t h ' t he Book

says you ar e t o gr ow cot t on, and t he Engl i sh ar e t o

come and buy i t , ' or wi t h some j oke of hi s own

whi ch mi ght have been l udi cr ous had i t not been

ser i ousl y di st r essi ng. " He f ound t he Manganj a al -

r eady wi t h some knowl edge of t he Engl i sh ef f or t s t o

Shi r e i ssues f r om t he mount ai ns, t he pr ogr ess of t he par t y

was st opped by r api ds, t o whi ch t hey gave t he name of t he

" Mur chi son Cat ar act s. " I t seemed i n vai n t o penet r at e among

t he peopl e at t hat t i me wi t hout suppl i es, consi der i ng how sus -

pi ci ous t hey wer e. Cr owds went al ong t he banks wat chi ng

t hem by day; t hey had guar ds over t hem al l ni ght , and t hese

wer e al ways r eady wi t h t hei r bows and poi soned ar r ows.

Never t hel ess, some pr ogr ess was made i n ci vi l i zi ng t hem,

and at a f ut ur e t i me i t was hoped t hat f ur t her expl or at i on

Page 86 of 182

mi ght t ake pl ace.

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 143

suppr ess t he sl ave- t r ade, and r eadi l y assent i ng t o hi s

ear nest t eachi ng t hat " t he Fat her of al l was ser i ousl y

di spl eased wi t h Hi s chi l dr en f or sel l i ng and ki l l i ng

each ot her . . . . The bear i ng of t he Manganj a

' at t hi s t i me was ver y i ndependent — a st r i ki ng con-

t r ast t o t he cr i ngi ng at t i t ude t hey af t er war d assumed

when t he cr uel scour ge of sl ave- hunt i ng passed over

t he count r y. " Far t her up t hey wer e st opped by f our

f al l s, whi ch t hey named t he Mur chi son Cat ar act s,

and r et ur ned t o Tet t e wi t hout f ur t her ef f or t s f or t he

pr esent .

I n Mar ch t hey r et ur ned agai n t o t he cat ar act s,

made f r i ends wi t h t he l ocal chi ef , Chi bi sa, and l eav -

i ng t he st eamer opposi t e hi s vi l l age, t he t wo Doct or s,

wi t h t went y- f i ve Makol ol o, st ar t ed nor t h f or t he

gr eat l ake of whi ch t he nat i ves spoke. Thei r gui des

f ai l ed and deser t ed, and t he nat i ves wer e host i l e, but

t hey pr essed on and upwar d, unt i l on Apr i l i 8t h t hey

di scover ed Lake Shi r wa, at a hei ght of ei ght een hun-

dr ed f eet , and upwar d of si xt y mi l es i n l engt h, i n t he

mi dst of a beaut i f ul and r i ch count r y bounded by

mount ai ns ei ght t housand f eet hi gh. Her e t hey

hear d of a much l ar ger l ake t o t he nor t h, bm not

wi shi ng j ust t hen t o t r y t he nat i ve t emper f ur t her ,

t hey her e t ur ned back af t er t aki ng obser vat i ons, r e-

j oi ned t he st eamer , and r eached Tet t e on June 23d. *

♦Her e i s t he account he gave of hi s pr oceedi ngs t o hi s l i t t l e

daught er Agnes :

" Ri ver Shi r e, 1st June, 1859. — I am now on my way t o

144 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

He now descended t he Zambesi t o send t he Kr oo-

men home, get a suppl y of pr ovi si ons, and beach t he

" Ast hmat i c" f or r epai r s, r et ur ni ng i n August f or a

t hi r d ascent of t he Shi r e, and a push f or war d t o t he

Tet t e, but we r an up t he Shi r e some f or t y mi l es t o buy r i ce

f or our company. Uncl e Char l es i s t her e. He has had some

f ever , but i s bet t er . We l ef t hi m t her e about t wo mont hs

ago, and Dr . Ki r k and I , wi t h some f i f t een Makol ol o, ascended

t hi s r i ver one hundr ed mi l es i n t he ' Ma- Rober t , ' t hen l ef t t he

vessel and pr oceeded beyond t hat on f oot t i l l we had di scov -

er ed a magni f i cent l ake cal l ed Shi r wa ( pr onounced Shur wah) .

I t was ver y gr and, f or we coul d not see t he end of i t , t hough

some way up a mount ai n ; and al l ar ound i t ar e mount ai ns

much hi gher t han any you see i n Scot l and. One mount ai n

st ands i n t he l ake, and peopl e l i ve on i t . Anot her , cal l ed

Zomba, i s mor e t han si x t housand f eet hi gh, and peopl e l i ve

on i t , t oo, f or we coul d see t hei r gar dens on i t s t op, whi ch i s

l ar ger t han f r om Gl asgow t o Hami l t on, or about f r om f i f t een

t o ei ght een mi l es. The count r y i s qui t e a Hi ghl and r egi on,

and many peopl e l i ve i n i t . Most of t hem wer e af r ai d of us.

Page 87 of 182

The women r an i nt o t hei r hut s and shut t he door s. The chi l -

dr en scr eamed i n t er r or , and even t he hens woul d f l y away

and l eave t hei r chi ckens. I suppose you woul d be f r i ght ened,

t oo, i f you saw st r ange cr eat ur es, say a l ot of Tr undl emen,

l i ke t hose on t he I sl e of Man penni es, come whi r l i ng up t he

st r eet . No one was

i mpudent t o us ex-

* ^ | ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Mi ^ ^ Sl f | yH cept some sl ave-

t r ader s, but t hey be-

came ci vi l as soon

as t hey l ear ned we wer e Engl i sh and not Por t uguese. We

saw t he st i cks t hey empl oy f or t r ai ni ng any one whom t hey

have j ust bought . One i s about ei ght f eet l ong, t he head, or

neck r at her , i s put i nt o t he space bet ween t he dot t ed l i nes

and shaf t , and anot her sl ave car r i es t he end. When t hey ar e

consi der ed t ame t hey ar e al l owed t o go i n chai ns.

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 145

gr eat nor t her n l ake whi ch t hey had as yet been un-

abl e t o r each.

On t he 29t h t hey l ef t t he st eamer and st ar t ed —

f our whi t es, t hi r t y- t wo Makol ol o, and f our gui des —

f or t he di scover y of Lake Nyassa. They f ound t he

Manganj a beyond t he Mur chi son Fal l s an i ndust r i -

ous r ace, wor ki ng i n i r on, cot t on, cl ay, and maki ng

basket s and f i sh- net s, and men and women t ur ni ng

out f or f i el d- l abor , but gr eat l y addi ct ed t o t he beer

whi ch t hey br ew i n l ar ge quant i t i es and dr i nk i n a

f ew days and ni ght s, as i t wi l l not keep. They f ol -

l owed t he Shi r e above t he cat ar act s, a br oad and

deep r i ver wi t h l i t t l e cur r ent , ar r i vi ng at t he vi l l age

of t he chi ef , Muana- Moesi , i n t he mi ddl e of Sept em-

ber . Her e t hey wer e assur ed t hat t he r i ver st r et ched

on f or " t wo mont hs, " and t hen came out f r om be-

t ween per pendi cul ar r ocks whi ch coul d not be passed.

" Let us go back t o t he shi p, " sai d t he Makol ol o ; " i t

i s no use t r yi ng t o f i nd t hi s l ake. " " We shal l see t he

wonder f ul r ocks, at any r at e, " sai d t he Doct or .

" Yes, " t hey pl eaded, " and when you see t hem, you

wi l l j ust want t o see somet hi ng el se. " The chi ef ,

who came up l at er , admi t t ed t hat t her e was a l ake.

Scar cel y had he l ef t t hem when a wai l ar ose f r om t he

r i ver . A cr ocodi l e had car r i ed of f hi s pr i nci pal wi f e.

The Makol ol o sei zed t hei r spear s and r ushed t o t he

r i ver , but t oo l at e. " The whi t e men came, " Muana-

Moesi r epor t ed t o hi s nei ghbor s, " bat hed and r ubbed

t hemsel ves wi t h a whi t e medi ci ne" ( soap) , " and hi s

146 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

wi f e goi ng af t er war d t o bat he was t aken by a cr oco-

Page 88 of 182

di l e; he di d not know whet her i n consequence of t he

medi ci ne or not . " On t hei r r et ur n t hey wer e l ooked

on wi t h f ear , al l t he men l eavi ng t hi s vi l l age t i l l t hey

passed. At noon on Sept ember i 6t h t hey di scov-

er ed Lake Nyassa. *

Her e Li vi ngst one was conf i r med i n hi s convi ct i on'

t hat t hi s spl endi d l ake, wi t h i t s br aci ng cl i mat e and

r i ch banks, woul d become t he key of East er n Cent r al

* Li vi ngst one had no doubt t hat he and hi s par t y wer e t he

di scover er s ; Dr . Roscher , on whose behal f a cl ai m was sub-

sequent l y made, was t wo mont hs l at er , and hi s unf or t unat e

mur der by t he nat i ves made i t doubt f ul at what poi nt he

r eached t he l ake. The di scover y of Lake Nyassa, as wel l as

Lake Shi r wa, was of i mmense i mpor t ance, because t hey wer e

bot h par al l el t o t he ocean, and t he whol e t r af f i c of t he r egi ons

beyond must pass by t hi s l i ne. The conf i gur at i on of t he Shi r e

Val l ey, t oo, was f avor abl e t o col oni zat i on. The val l ey occu-

pi ed t hr ee di f f er ent l evel s. Fi r st t her e was a pl ai n on t he

l evel of t he r i ver , l i ke t hat of t he Ni l e, cl ose and hot . Ri si ng

above t hi s t o t he east t her e was anot her pl ai n, 2, 000 f eet hi gh,

t hr ee or f our mi l es br oad, sal ubr i ous and pl easant . Last l y,

t her e was a t hi r d pl ai n 3, 000 f eet above t he second, posi t i vel y

col d. To f i nd such var i et i es of cl i mat e wi t hi n a f ew mi l es of

each ot her was most i nt er est i ng.

I n ot her r espect s t he r egi on opened up was r emar kabl e.

Ther e was a gr eat amount of f er t i l e l and, and t he pr oduct s

wer e al most endl ess. The peopl e wer e i ndust r i ous ; i n t he

Upper Shi r e, not wi t hst andi ng a gr eat l ove of beer , t hey l i ved

usual l y t o a gr eat age. Cl eanl i ness was not a uni ver sal vi r -

t ue; t he onl y way i n whi ch t he Expedi t i on coul d get r i d of

a t r oubl esome f ol l ower was by t hr eat eni ng t o wash hi m. The

most di sagr eeabl e t hi ng i n t he appear ance of t he women was

t hei r l i p- or nament , consi st i ng of a r i ng of i vor y or t i n, ei t her

hol l ovi r Qv made i i i t o a cup, i nser t ed i n t he upper l i p.

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. I 47

Af r i ca. But t he cur se of t he sl ave- t r ade was al -

r eady on i t . . They met Ar abs wi t h chai n- gangs.

The ] \ I akol ol o appeal ed t o t he Doct or : " Why won' t

you l et us choke t hem ? You cal l us bad, but ar e we

l i ke t hese f el l ows ?"

To l i ber at e t hese sl aves woul d have been usel ess,

as t he nei ghbor i ng vi l l ager s woul d have r et aken and

sol d t hem agai n, so t he Doct or sor r ow^ f ul l y r ef used ;

but t he gl or i ous count r y seemed t o i nspi r e hi m, and

he wr ot e home : ' T have a st r ong desi r e t o commence

a syst em of col oni zat i on among t he honest poor ; I

woul d gi ve 2, 000 or

3, 000 f or t he pur pos e. Col o-

ni z at i on f r om s uc h a c ount r y as our s ought t o be one

of hope, not of des pai r . I t ought not t o be l ook ed

on as t he l as t s hi f t a f ami l y c an c ome t o, but t he per -

f or manc e of an i mper at i v e dut y t o our bl ood, our

count r y , our r el i gi on, and t o humank i nd. . , .

I wonder why we c an' t hav e t he ol d monas t er y s y s -

t em wi t hout c el i bac y . I n no par t of t he wor l d I

hav e been i n does t he pr os pec t s eem s o i nv i t i ng and

pr omi s e s o muc h i nf l uenc e. "

Page 89 of 182

Agai n he had t o t ur n bac k , and on Oc t ober 6,

1859, t hey r eac hed t he s hi p onc e mor e.

He now f el t t hat t he t i me had c ome f or t ak i ng

bac k t he Mak ol ol o, but bef or e s t ar t i ng wes t had t o

r un down t o Kongone f or s uppl i es and l et t er s .

Thes e ar r i v ed i n H. M. s hi p " Ly nx , " Capt ai n Ber k e-

l ey , but unl uc k i l y t he l et t er - bags wer e l os t i n t he

caps i z i ng of a boat i n t he s ur f on t he bar . Wi t h t he

148 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

ef f i c i ent hel p of Capt ai n Ber k el ey , t he " As t hmat i c "

was onc e mor e pat c hed up, and t hey r et ur ned t o

Tet t e. * Leav i ng her t her e, wi t h t he r emai ni ng t wo

Engl i s h s ai l or s , t he Doc t or s t ar t ed wes t on May

15t h. Sev er al of t he Mak ol ol o had mar r i ed s l av es

and had c hi l dr en. By t he Por t ugues e l aw al l bap-

t i z ed c hi l dr en ar e f r ee, but t he l aw was of no f or c e

on t he Zambes i . The of f i c er s l aughed and s ai d,

" Li s bon l aws ar e v er y s t r i ngent , but s omehow, pos -

si bl y f r om t he heat , her e t hey l os e al l t hei r f or c e. "

Onl y one woman, t he wi f e of a Mak ol ol o, ac c om-

pani ed t hem. Sev er al men s t ay ed at Tet t e, whi l e

t he r es t s t ar t ed, t hough t hey wer e t ol d t hey c oul d

st ay i f t hey l i k ed. " Cont ac t wi t h s l av es had de-

st r oy ed t hei r s ens e of honor ; t hey woul d not go i n

* A mont h l at er he wr i t es t o Si r Roder i c k Mur c hi s on, f r om

Kongone, l ot h Mar c h, i 860, t hat he i s s endi ng Rae home f or

a v es s el :

" I t el l Lor d J ohn Rus s el l t hat he ( Rae) may t her eby do us

mor e s er v i c e t han he c an now i n a wor n- out s t eamer , wi t h

35 pat c hes , c ov er i ng at l eas t 100 hol es . I s ay t o hi s Lor ds hi p,

t hat af t er we hav e, by pat i ent i nv es t i gat i on and ex per i ment ,

at t he r i s k of l i f e, r ender ed t he f ev er not mor e f or mi dabl e t han

a c ommon c ol d; f ound ac c es s , f r om a good har bor on t he

coas t , t o t he mai n s t r eam; and di s c ov er ed a pat hway i nt o t he

magni f i c ent Hi ghl and l ak e r egi on, whi c h pr omi s es s o f ai r l y

f or our c ommer c e i n c ot t on, ar i d f or our pol i c y i n s uppr es s i ng

t he t r ade i n s l av es , I ear nes t l y hope t hat he wi l l c r own our

ef f or t s by s ec ur i ng our f r ee pas s age t hr ough t hos e par t s of t he

Zambes i and Shi r e of whi c h t he Por t ugues e mak e no us e,

and by enabl i ng us t o i nt r oduc e c i v i l i z at i on i n a manner whi c h

wi l l ex t end t he honor and i nf l uenc e of t he Engl i s h nam . "

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 149

day l i ght , but dec amped i n t he ni ght , i n onl y one

i ns t anc e, howev er , t ak i ng our goods . By t he

t i me we had got wel l i nt o t he Kebr abas a hi l l s ,

t hi r t y men, near l y one- t hi r d of t he par t y , had

t ur ned bac k . "

Li v i ngs t one was nev er s o happy as on one of t hes e

l ong t r amps , wher e t he c amp was made up i n t he

mos t or der l y manner ni ght af t er ni ght , eac h gr oup

hav i ng t hei r al l ot t ed pl ac e and f i r e under t hei r head-

Page 90 of 182

man, wi t h t he f i r e of t he Engl i s hmen i n t he c ent r e.

He r ec ount s t he quai nt t al k whi c h he hear d on many

subj ec t s . Pol i t i c al di s c us s i ons , as at home, mov ed

t hem mos t . ' ' The whol e c amp i s r ous ed, and t he

men s hout t o one anot her f r om t he di f f er ent f i r es .

The mi s gov er nment of c hi ef s f ur ni s hes an i nex haus -

t i bl e t heme. ' We c oul d gov er n our s el v es bet t er , '

t hey c r y . ' What i s t he us e of c hi ef s at al l ? They

don' t w^ or k . The c hi ef i s f at and has pl ent y of

wi v es , w^ hi l s t we do t he har d wor k , hav e hunger and

onl y one wnf e, mor e l i k el y none. Now t hi s mus t be

bad, unj us t , and wr ong. ' Al l s hout a l oud ehe,

equi v al ent t o our ' Hear , hear . ' Nex t t he head- men,

Kany at a and Tuba, wi t h hi s l oud v oi c e, t ak e up t he

ques t i on on t he l oy al s i de. ' The c hi ef i s t he f at her

of hi s peopl e. Can t her e be peopl e wi t hout a f at her ,

eh? God made t he c hi ef . Who s ay s t he c hi ef i s

not wi s e? He i s wi s e, but hi s c hi l dr en f ool s . '

Tuba goes on gener al l y t i l l he has s i l enc ed al l oppo-

si t i on. "

150 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

They av er aged t wo and a hal f mi l es an hour , and

mar c hed s i x hour s a day , t he Doc t or t r y i ng i n al l

way s t o mak e t he mar c h a pl eas ur e. The f our

Engl i s hmen had t o do t he s hoot i ng f or f ood, and y et

wer e s ur pr i s ed t o f i nd t hat t hey c oul d t i r e t hei r men

out . The Eur opean c ons t i t ut i on, Li v i ngs t one t hi nk s ,

" has a power of endur anc e, ev en i n t he t r opi c s ,

gr eat er t han t hat of t he har di es t meat - eat i ng Af r i -

cans . "

Par t s of t he c ount r y , f or mer l y popul ous , t hey

f ound des er t ed. Li ons abounded at many pl ac es .

The ' ' maj es t i c s neak , " as t he Doc t or names t he k i ng

of beas t s , woul d c ome near t he c amp and r oar , at -

t r ac t ed by t he s mel l of meat . On t hes e oc c as i ons

t he men, who hal f bel i ev ed t he s uper s t i t i on t hat he i s

a c hi ef i n di s gui s e, woul d r emons t r at e. Tuba :

' ' You a c hi ef , eh? You c al l y our s el f a c hi ef , do

you? What k i nd of c hi ef ar e y ou, t o c ome s neak -

i ng r ound i n t he dar k t r y i ng t o s t eal our buf f al o

meat ? Ar e y ou not as hamed of y our s el f ? A pr et t y

chi ef t r ul y ; y ou ar e l i k e t he s c av enger beet l e, and

t hi nk of y our s el f onl y . You hav e not t he hear t of

a c hi ef . Why don' t y ou k i l l y our own beef ?" An-

ot her s edat e man, who s el dom s pok e : " We ar e t r av -

el l i ng peac eabl y t hr ough t he c ount r y bac k t o our own

chi ef . We nev er k i l l ed peopl e or s t ol e any t hi ng.

The buf f al o meat i s our s , and i t does not bec ome a

gr eat c hi ef l i k e y ou t o be pr owl i ng about i n t he dar k

l i k e a hy ena t o s t eal t he meat of s t r anger s . Go and

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 151

hunt f or y our s el f . Ther e i s pl ent y of game i n t he

f or es t . " *

I n J une t hey c ame amongs t ol d ac quai nt anc es ,

Page 91 of 182

Pangol a and Mpende ; and st i l l t r avel l i ng on, si ght ed

Semal embor e' s mount ai ns on Jul y 9t h. They sent

hi m a pr esent , and soon wer e i n br aci ng ai r , t hr ee

t housand f eet above sea- l evel , wi t h super b vi ews of

t he gr eat Zambesi Val l ey. Fr om Kaf ue t o t he Fal l s

t hey wer e amongst f r i ends, and pl ent i f ul l y suppl i ed,

t he men cl appi ng t hei r hands as t hey ent er ed and l ef t

t he vi l l ages, and t he women l ul i l ooi ng wi t h t he shr i l l

cal l of " l et us sl eep" or ' ' peace. " Al as! t her e was

cause f or t he cr y, f or her e Li vi ngst one became awar e

t hat Por t uguese sl ave- deal er s wer e f ol l owi ng i n hi s

f oot st eps. ' ' We wer e now so f ul l y convi nced, " he

wr i t es, " t hat i n openi ng t he count r y t hr ough whi ch

no Por t uguese dur st pass pr evi ousl y, we wer e made

t he unwi l l i ng i nst r ument s of spr eadi ng t he sl ave-

* Wher ever t hey go, Dr . Li vi ngst one has hi s eye on t he

t r ees and pl ant s and f r ui t s of t he r egi on, wi t h a vi ew t o com-

mer ce ; whi l e he i s no l ess i nt er est ed t o wat ch t he t r eat ment

of f ever , when cases occur , and gr eat l y gr at i f i ed t hat Dr . Ki r k,

who had been t r yi ng a var i et y of medi ci nes on hi msel f , made

r api d r ecover y when he t ook Dr . Li vi ngst one' s pi l l s. He used

t o say i f he had f ol l owed Mor i son, and set up as pi l l - maker ,

he mi ght have made hi s f or t une. Passi ng t hr ough t he Bazi -

zul u he had an escape f r om a r hi nocer os, as r emar kabl e t hough

not qui t e as r omant i c as hi s escape f r om t he l i on; t he ani mal

came dashi ng at hi m, and suddenl y, f or some unknown r eason,

st opped when cl ose t o hi m, and gave hi m t i me t o escape, as i f

i t had been st r uck by hi s col or , and doubt f ul i f hunt i ng a whi t e

man woul d be good spor t .

152 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t r ade, t hat had we not pr omi sed t o r et ur n wi t h t he

Makol ol o we shoul d have l ef t t he Zambesi and gone

t o t he Rovuma or some ot her i nl et t o t he i nt er i or . "

They r eached Sekel et u' s count r y on August 4t h, and

soon saw^ t he col umns r i si ng f r om t he Vi ct or i a Fal l s,

maki ng a det our t o vi si t t hem agai n and make a mor e

car ef ul i nspect i on. Her e t hey f ound Mr . Bal dwi n,

a Nat al gent l eman, i n a sor t of dur ance t o Mashot -

l ane, t he nei ghbor i ng head- man. He had ar r i ved

wi t hout a gui de by t he ai d of a pocket - compass, and,

whi l e Mashot l ane was f er r yi ng hi m over , j umped i n

and swam ashor e. ' ' I f he had been devour ed by a

cr ocodi l e, t he Engl i sh woul d have bl amed us. He

near l y di d us a gr eat i nj ur y, t her ef or e we sai d he

must pay a f i ne. "

Fr om Mr . Bal dwi n, Li vi ngst one hear d news whi ch

deepl y gr i eved hi m. Mr . Bal dwi n had f ound a mi s-

si onar y par t y bound f or Li nyant i , at a wel l i n t he

deser t , st ar vi ng. He shot game f or t hem and en-

abl ed t hem t o get t o Li nyant i . Her e Mr . Hel mor e,

t he chi ef mi ssi onar y, at xe began act i ve wor k

pr eachi ng and t eachi ng, but i n a f ew weeks hi s wi f e

si ckened of f ever and di ed. He hel d on gal l ant l y

hi msel f , but was soon down and dead wi t hi n a

mont h, as wer e al so t hr ee ot her of t he ni ne Eur o-

peans i n t he mi ssi on. Hel mor e' s associ at e mi ssi on-

ar y, who was young and i gnor ant of t he l anguage,

went back wi t h t hei r nat i ve ser vant s, f our of whom

Page 92 of 182

al so had di ed. The Doct or f el t t hat i f he had been a

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 153

f ew mont hs ear l i er al l mi ght have been saved, f or he

had now al most a speci f i c f or t he f ever . Dr . Ki r k,

af t er exper i ment i ng on hi msel f wi t h r esul t s whi ch

t hr eat ened di sast er , had r ecover ed al most at once on

t aki ng Li vi ngst one' s pi l l s. *

They f ound a sad st at e of t hi ngs at Sesheke,

wher e t hey met Sekel et u. He had been st r uck by

l epr osy and was i sol at ed. He bel i eved hi msel f be-

wi t ched, and had put sever al chi ef men t o deat h, had

al t er ed Sebi t uane' s pol i cy of conci l i at i ng t he t r i bes

he had subdued or at t r act ed, and advanced none but

pur e Makol ol o. Mor eover , t her e had been a l ong

dr ought , whi ch had scat t er ed t he peopl e i n sear ch of

f ood; t he i nf er i or chi ef s wer e set t i ng up f or t hem-

sel ves, and Sebi t uane' s empi r e was f ast cr umbl i ng

t o pi eces. However , Sekel et u r ecei ved t hem most

hospi t abl y, was pl eased wi t h t he pr esent s t hey

br ought , and i nsi st ed on t hei r t r eat i ng hi m f or hi s

* 0n goi ng t o Li nyant i , Dr . Li vi ngst one f ound t he wagon

and ot her ar t i cl es whi ch he had l ef t t her e i n 1853, saf e and

sound, except f r om t he ef f ect s of weat her and t he whi t e ant s.

The expr essi ons of ki ndness and conf i dence t owar d hi m ohj

t he par t of t he nat i ves gr eat l y t ouched hi m. The peopl e wer e

much di sappoi nt ed at not seei ng Mr s. Li vi ngst one and t he

chi l dr en. But t hi s conf i dence was t he r esul t of hi s way of

deal i ng wi t h t hem. " I t ought never t o be f or got t en t hat i n-

f l uence among t he heat hen can be acqui r ed onl y by pat i ent

cont i nuance i n wel l - doi ng, and t hat good manner s ar e as nec-

essar y among bar bar i ans . as among t he ci vi l i zed. " The Mako-

l ol o wer e t he most i nt er est i ng t r i be t hat Dr . Li vi ngst one had

ever seen. Whi l e now wi t h t hem he was unwear i ed i n hi s

ef f or t s f or t hei r spi r i t ual good.

154 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

l epr osy. They di d not ent i r el y cur e hi m, but l ef t

hi m i n bet t er spi r i t s and heal t h. Dr . Li vi ngst one

went on t o Li nyant i t o get medi ci nes and ot her

I t hi ngs out of t he wagon he had l ef t t her e i n 1853.

He was r ecei ved wi t h ever y demonst r at i on of j oy,

t he t own- cr i er pr ocl ai mi ng bef or e dawn, ' ' I have

dr eamed! I have dr eamed! t hat Monar e" ( t he Doc-

t or ) ' ' was comi ng, and t hat t he t r i be woul d l i ve i f

you pr ayed God and gave heed t o t he wor d of

Monar e, ' ' and Sekel et u' s wi ves suppl yi ng abundant

pr ovi si ons. Al l was as he had l ef t i t , except t hat t he

whi t e ant s had eat en one of hi s wagon wheel s. He

r et ur ned t o Sesheke, wher e t hey st ayed t i l l Sept em-

ber , hol di ng r egul ar ser vi ces as wel l as doct or i ng

chi ef and peopl e. On t he i 6t h t hey st ar t ed west

agai n, accompani ed by men sel ect ed by Sekel et u,

who behaved spl endi dl y. Thus on t he canoes com-

i ng suddenl y i nt o r api ds wher e t he waves began t o

f i l l t hem, t wo men out of each j umped out at once

Page 93 of 182

and swam al ongsi de, gui di ng t he canoes. They t hen

or der ed a Bat oka man t o j ump out , as ' ' t he whi t e

men must be saved. " " I can' t swi m, " sai d t he

Bat oka man. " Jump out t hen, and hol d on t o t he

canoe, " whi ch he di d at once, and t hey got saf el y

down.

They r eached Tet t e and t he " Ast hmat i c" on No-

vember 2 1 St , havi ng been absent si x mont hs. The

t wo sai l or s wer e wel l , and had kept t he st eamer af l oat

by const ant pat chi ng, besi des exer ci si ng ot her i ndus -

TO LI NYANTI AND BACK. 155

t r i es. Two sheep and t wo dozen f owl s had been

l ef t wi t h t hem, but t hey had bought t wo monkeys,

who at e al l t he eggs t i l l t he nat i ves st ol e t he f owl s.

A hi ppopot amus came up one ni ght and l ai d wast e

t hei r veget abl e gar den; t he sheep br oke i nt o t hei r

cot t on- pat ch when i t was i n f l ower and at e al l but

t he st ems, and t hen t he cr ocodi l es got t he sheep.

They al so set up as smi t hs, and a Por t uguese

br ought t hem a doubl e- bar r el ed r i f l e t o be br owned.

" I t hi nk I knows how, " sai d one, whose f at her was

a bl acksmi t h, " you' ve onl y t o put t he bar r el s i n t he

f i r e. " Thi s was done, and t o Jack' s amazement t he

bar r el s came asunder . They st uck t hem t oget her

wi t h r esi n and sent t hem back wi t h a message; " i t

was al l t hey coul d do, " t hey sai d, " and t hey woul dn' t

char ge hi m f or t he j ob. " They woul d onl y pay

mar ket - pr i ce f or pr ovi si ons, and i f t he t r ader s r ai sed

i f t hey br ought out a chamel eon, of whi ch t he nat i ves

have a gr eat dr ead, and t he moment t hey saw i t

j umped over boar d.

They now st ar t ed i n t he " Ast hmat i c" f or Kon-

gone, t o meet t he new st eamer , whi ch t hey expect ed

f r om Engl and. On t he way down, t hat r emar kabl e

vessel was pl ai nl y on her l ast voyage. " Our engi -

neer has been doct or i ng her bot t om wi t h f at and

pat ches, and pr onounces i t saf e t o go down t he r i ver

sl owl y. Ever y day a new l eak br eaks out , and he i s

i n, pl ast er i ng and scor i ng, t he pump goi ng con-

st ant l y. I never expect ed t o f i nd her af l oat , but t he

156 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE. '

engi neer had not hi ng el se t o do, and i t saves us f r om

buyi ng dear canoes f r om t he Por t uguese. " She hel d

out unt i l December 20t h, when t he Jour nal not es:

' ' One day above Senna t he ' Ma Rober t ' st uck on a

sandbank and f i l l ed, so we had t o go ashor e and

l eave hen"

CHAPTER I X.

THE UNI VERSI TI ES MI SSI ON.

1861- 62.

Page 94 of 182

As he near ed Kongone, Li vi ngst one was r ej oi ci ng

i n t he t hought of t he Uni ver si t i es Mi ssi on, whi ch

was on i t s way out , and f r om whi ch he hoped gr eat

t hi ngs, and wr ot e : ' T am gr eat l y dehght ed at t he

pr ospect of a Chur ch of Engl and Mi ssi on t o Cent r al

Af r i ca. " He had not l ong t o wai t , as t he " Pi oneer "

ar r i ved of f t he bar , wi t h Bi shop Mackenzi e and hi s

st af f , on Januar y 31, 1861. The onl y f aul t of t he

" Pi oneer " was t hat she dr ew t oo much wat er f or

t he Shi r e at t hi s season ; and t hi s, t oget her wi t h t he

wi sh of t he home gover nment , t ur ned hi m f r om t he

i mmedi at e pl ant i ng of t he Mi ssi on on or near i t s

banks t o t he expl or at i on of t he Rovuma. The

mout h of t hat r i ver i s nor t h of t he Por t uguese boun-

dar y, and i t seemed l i kel y t hat i t came f r om t he

nor t h of Lake Nyassa. I f t hi s wer e so, i t mi ght

pr ove i n many ways t he best r out e f or t he i nt er i or ,

and so t he best si t uat i on f or t he Mi ssi on. Accor d-

i ngl y t hey sai l ed f or t he Rovuma i n t he " Pi oneer , "

and, wi t h t he " Lyr a" accompanyi ng, expl or ed some

hundr ed mi l es of i t s banks, unt i l , t he Mar ch f l oods

157

158 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

bei ng over , t hey coul d get no hi gher and r et ur ned t o

t he Zambesi . Li vi ngst one now r esol ved t o set t l e

t he Mi ssi on on t he Shi r e, and t hen expl or e Lake

Nyassa, and t he Rovuma f r om t he l ake downwar d.

When t hey r eached t he Upper Shi r e t he wat er was

l ow, and t he t oi l of get t i ng t he ' Ti oneer " over t he

f r equent sandbanks excessi ve. Anchor s had t o be

l ai d out ahead, and t he capst ans wor ked. Li vi ng-

st one' s f r i endshi p f or t he Bi shop and hi s compan-

i ons, Scudamor e and Hor ace Wal l er , gr ew r api dl y

as he saw t hem ever r eady and anxi ous t o l end a

hand i n haul i ng, and wor ki ng as har d as any one on

boar d. But t he cl ouds wer e al r eady gat her i ng. As

t hey appr oached t he Manganj a count r y on t hei r way

t o Chi bi sa, t he most power f ul chi ef of t he t r i be, t hey

hear d sad t i di ngs. The sl ave- gangs f r om Tet t e and

ot her Por t uguese set t l ement s wer e i n t he count r y.

They had f ol l owed Li vi ngst one' s st eps i n i 860, and

on pr et ense of bei ng " hi s chi l dr en, " had f i r st caj ol ed

t he nat i ves, and t hen set t r i be agai nst t r i be, buyi ng

capt i ves f r om bot h si des and mar chi ng t hem of f i n

gangs t o t he coast . Ever ywher e t hey f ound vi l -

l ages, popul ous and pr osper ous on t hei r l ast vi si t ,

deser t ed and pi l l aged. On Jul y 15t h t hey hal t ed at

t he vi l l age of t hei r ol d f r i end, Mbame. News came

t hat a sl ave- gang woul d be passi ng pr esent l y. A

hur r i ed consul t at i on w^ as hel d. " Shal l we i nt er -

f er e ?" I n a f ew mi nut es t he l ong l i ne of manacl ed

men, women, and chi l dr en came wendi ng t hei r way

THE UNI VERSI TI ES MI SSI ON. 159

Page 95 of 182

r ound t he hi l l and i nt o t he val l ey, on t he si de of

whi ch t he vi l l age st ood. The bl ack dr i ver s, ar med

wi t h musket s and bedecked wi t h var i ous ar t i cl es of

f i ner y, mar ched j aunt i l y i n t he f r ont , mi ddl e, and

r ear of t he l i ne, some of t hem bl owi ng exul t ant not es

out of l ong, t i n hor ns. ' ' The i nst ant t he f el l ows

caught si ght of us t hey bol t ed l i ke mad i nt o t he f or -

est . The chi ef of t he par t y al one r emai ned, as he,

f r om bei ng i n f r ont , had hi s hand t i ght l y gr asped by

a Makol ol o. " He pr oved t o be a wel l - known sl ave

of t he Commandant of Tet t e, t he successor of Li v -

i ngst one' s f r i end. Maj or Si car d, who had been r e-

cal l ed. The sl aves, ei ght y- f our i n number , wer e l i b-

er at ed; al l but f our pr oved t o be capt i ves t aken i n

war . * ' The ot her s t i ed and st ar ved us, " a smal l boy

sai d. " You cut t he r opes and bi d us eat . What

sor t of peopl e ar e you? Wher e di d you come

f r om?" The Bi shop had been away bat hi ng, but on

hi s r et ur n appr oved, and at t ached t he whol e t o hi s

Mi ssi on. I n t he next f ew days' pr ogr ess t hey scat -

t er ed sever al mor e sl ave- gangs. The Bi shop now

/ accept ed t he of f er of Chi gunda, a f r i endl y Manganj a

chi ef , t o set t l e at Magomer o, hi s vi l l age. Bef oi e

l eavi ng t he Mi ssi on, Li vi ngst one agr eed wi t h t he

Bi shop t o vi si t t he Aj awa chi ef , who was maki ng

war on t he Manganj a. They st ar t ed on t he 226. ,

met cr owds of Manganj a i n f l i ght , f ound vi l l ages

t hey had l ef t pr osper ous t wo year s bef or e deser t ed

and dest r oyed, t he cor n pour ed out i n car t l oads al ong

160 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t he pat hsc At t wo o' cl ock t hey came on a bur ni ng

v^ i l l age, and hear d t r i umphant shout s mi ngl ed wi t h

t he wai l of t he Manganj a women over t hei r sl ai n,

^' The Bi shop t hen engaged us i n f er vent pr ayer ; and

on r i si ng f r om our knees, we saw a l ong l i ne of

Aj awa war r i or s wi t h t hei r capt i ves comi ng r ound

t he hi l l si de/ ' The head- man l ef t t he pat h and st ood

on an ant - hi l l . He was t ol d t hat t hey had come f or

a peacef ul i nt er vi ew, but t he Aj awa, f l ushed wi t h

success, yel l ed, ' ' Nkondo, Nkondo" ( war , war ) , and

cl osed r ound t i l l wi t hi n f i f t y yar ds, shoot i ng poi -

soned ar r ows, one of whi ch passed bet ween t he

Bi shop and Li vi ngst one. Some f our of t he Aj awa

who had guns now opened f i r e, and t hen ' Sve wer e

obl i ged i n sel f - def ense t o f i r e and dr i ve t hem of f .

Or i l y t wo capt i ves escaped t o us, but pr obabl y most

of t he pr i soner s f l ed el sewher e i n t he conf usi on. We

r et ur ned t o t he vi l l age we had l ef t i n t he mor ni ng

af t er a hungr y, f at i gui ng, and most unpl easant day, "

I t was now debat ed whet her t he Mi ssi on shoul d

ai d t he Manganj a agai nst t he Aj awa. " No, " was

Li vi ngst one' s advi ce, " don' t i nt er f er e i n nat i ve quar -

r el s. " Ear l y i n August he l ef t t he Mi ssi on, on a^

pl easant si t e at Magomer o, sur r ounded by st at el y

shady t r ees. Ever yt hi ng pr omi sed f ai r l y. The

weat her was del i ght f ul . Pr ovi si ons pour ed i n ver y

cheap. " The Bi shop, wi t h char act er i st i c ar dor ,

began l ear ni ng t he l anguage; Mr , Wal l er began

bui l di ng, and Mr . Scudamor e i mpr ovi sed a sor t of

Page 96 of 182

THE UNI VERSI TI ES MI SSI ON. 161

i nf ant school f or t he chi l dr en, t han whi ch t her e i s no

bet t er way f or acqui r i ng an unwr i t t en t ongue. " I t

was November bef or e Li vi ngst one saw t he Bi shop

agai n, on hi s r et ur n f r om Lake Nyassa, whi ch he

now r esol ved t o expl or e t hor oughl y.

He st ar t ed wi t h Dr . Ki r k, Char l es Li vi ngst one,

and one whi t e sai l or , and a Makol ol o cr ew f or t he

f our - oar ed gi g of t he " Pi oneer , " whi ch was car r i ed

by hi r ed nat i ves past t he f or t y mi l es of t he r api ds

whi ch he named t he Mur chi son Fal l s, i n whi ch t he

Shi r e descends t wel ve hundr ed f eet . Above t hem

t he Shi r e was br oad and deep, wi t h a cur r ent of onl y

one mi l e an hour , and pr act i cal l y a sout her n ext en-

si on of t he l ake, i nt o whi ch t hey sai l ed on Sept ember

2d. Fr om Cape Macl ear t hey f ound t he l ake up-

war d of t wo hundr ed mi l es l ong, and sur r ounded by

a dense popul at i on, i ndust r i ous and f r i endl y on al l

t he cent r al and sout her n banks. Li vi ngst one com-

par es i t t o t he Sea of Gahl ee. I n t he nor t her n par t

al l was changed. The l awl ess t r i be of t he Mazi t u

( Zul us) who dwel t i n t he hi ghl ands swept down on

t he l ake t r i bes al most at wi l l , pl under i ng and ensl av -

i ng; and t her e was a r egul ar cr ossi ng- pl ace f or t he

Ar ab dhows wi t h t hei r car goes of sl aves. Al l about

t he l ake was now exami ned wi t h ear nest eyes. The

popul at i on was denser t han he had seen anywher e

el se. The peopl e wer e ci vi l , and even f r i endl y, but

undoubt edl y t hey wer e not handsome. At t he nor t h

of t he l ake t hey wer e l awl ess, and at one poi nt t he

162 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

par t y wer e r obbed i n t he ni ght — t he f i r st t i me such a

t hi ng had occur r ed i n Li vi ngst one' s Af r i can l i f e. *

He l ear nt af t er war d f r om t he Consul at Zanzi bar t hat

* I n " The Zambesi and i t s Tr i but ar i es, " Li vi ngst one gi ves

a gr ave account of t he r obber y. I n hi s l et t er s t o hi s f r i ends

he makes f un of i t , as he di d of t he r ai d of t he Boer s. To Mr .

F. Fi t ch he wr i t es: " You t hi nk I cannot get i nt o a scr ape.

. , . . For t he f i r st t i me i n Af r i ca we wer e r obbed. Ex -

per t t hi eves cr ept i nt o our sl eepi ng- pl aces, about f our o' cl ock

i n t he mor ni ng, and made of f wi t h what t hey coul d l ay t hei r

hands on. Sheer over - modest y r ui ned me. I t was Sunday,

and such a bl ack mass swar med ar ound our sai l , whi ch we

used as a hut , t hat we coul d not hear pr ayer s. I had bef or e

sl i pped away a quar t er of a mi l e t o dr ess f or chur ch, but see-

i ng a cr owd of women wat chi ng me t hr ough t he r eeds, I di d

not change my ol d ' unment i onabl es' — t hey wer e so ol d, I had

ser i ous t hought s of conver t i ng t hem i nt o — char i t y ! Next mor n-

i ng ear l y al l our spar e cl ot hi ng was wal ked of f wi t h, and t her e

I was l ef t by my modest y near l y t hr ough at t he knees, and no

change of shi r t , f l annel , or st ocki ngs. Af t er t hat , don' t say

t hat I can' t get i nt o a scr ape ! " The same l et t er t hanks Mr .

Fi t ch f or sendi ng hi m Punch, whom he deemed a sound di -

vi ne! On t he same subj ect he wr ot e at anot her t i me, r egr et -

t i ng t hat Punch di d not r each hi m, especi al l y a number i n

Page 97 of 182

whi ch not i ce was t aken of hi msel f . " I t never came. Who t he

mi scr eant s ar e t hat st eal t hem I cannot di vi ne. I woul d not

gr udge t hem a r eadi ng i f t hey woul d onl y send t hem on af t er -

war d. Per haps bi ndi ng t he whol e year ' s Punches woul d be t he

best pl an; and t hen we need not l abel i t ' Ser mons i n Lent , "

or - Tr act s on Homoeopat hy, ' but you may wr i t e i nsi de, as Dr .

Buckl and di d on hi s umbr el l a, ' St ol en f r om Dr . Li vi ngst one. *

We r eal l y enj oy t hem ver y much. They ar e good agai nst

f ever . The ' Essence of Par l i ament , ' f or i nst ance, i s capi t al .

One has t o wade t hr ough an ocean of paper t o get t he same

i nf or mat i on, wi t hout any of t he f un. And by t he t i me t he

newspaper s have r eached us, most of t he i nt er est i n publ i c

mat t er s has evapor at ed. ' *

THE UNI VERSI TI ES MI SSI ON. 163

ni net een t housand sl aves passed year l y t hr ough t hat

cust om- house f r om t hi s r egi on. Af t er a sur vey of

t he l ake, and not i ng al l t he pr i nci pal f eat ur es, he r e-

t ur ned t o t he " Pi oneer " at Chi bi sa' s ear l y i n Novem-

ber , i mpr essed mor e t han ever wi t h t he val ue of Lake

Nyassa as t he key of Cent r al Af r i ca. Her e t he

Bi shop came t o see hi m, r epor t i ng cheer f ul l y of t he

pr ospect s at Magomer o, and of hi s hope of peace

wi t h t he Aj awa, whom t he Manganj a had def eat ed

wi t h t he ai d of t he Mi ssi on. Li vi ngst one had hi s

mi sgi vi ngs, but , af t er maki ng an appoi nt ment t o

meet t he Bi shop i n Januar y, when he hoped t o br i ng

up Mi ss Mackenzi e and ot her Engl i sh, st ar t ed f or

t he coast . I t pr oved a l ong and t edi ous j our ney, t he

' Ti oneer " bei ng st r anded on one sandbank of t he

Shi r e f or f i ve weeks. Her e occur r ed t he f i r st deat h

i n t he expedi t i on, t hat of t he car pent er ' s mat e.

When t hey r eached t he sea, ear l y i n Januar y, 1862,

t hey f ound t hat H. M. S. " Gor gon, " wi t h Mi ss Mac -

kenzi e on boar d, and t he sect i ons of t he " Lady

Nyassa" st eamer f or t he l ake, had been of f t he bar ,

but not f i ndi ng t hem, had sai l ed f or Mozambi que.

Ther e was not hi ng f or i t but t o wai t , and on t he l ast

of Januar y t he " Gor gon" hove i n si ght agai n, t ow-

i ng a br i g, and t he " Pi oneer " st ar t ed out t o meet hen

" I have st eamboat i n t he br i g, " si gnal ed t he " Gor -

gon. " " Wel come news, " Li vi ngst one answer ed.

" Wi f e aboar d, " came next . " Accept my best

t hanks, " Li vi ngst one answer ed. Mr s. Li vi ngst one,

1G4 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Mi ss Mackenzi e, wi t h ot her s f or t he Mi ssi on, and

t he Rev. James St ewar t , sent out by t he Commi t t ee

of t he Scot ch Fr ee Chur ch t o sur vey f or a Mi ssi on

st at i on, came on shor e next day. *

Capt ai n Wi l son, of t he " Gor gon, " t hr ew hi msel f

i nt o t he wor k zeal ousl y, and, l eavi ng hi s shi p at t he

bar , went up wi t h t hem i n t he " Pi oneer " t o Shu-

panga, wher e hi s men put t he " Lady Nyassa" t o-

get her f or Li vi ngst one. Whi l e t hi s was i n pr ogr ess

t he Capt ai n hi msel f st ar t ed i n boat s t o t ake Mi ss

Mackenzi e, Mr s. Bur r up, and t he r est up t o t he

Page 98 of 182

Bi shop at Magomer o. On t he way he met t he news

of t he Bi shop' s deat h on Januar y 31st , and r et ur ned

t o Shupanga wi t h t he sad news and t he t wo poor

l adi es, r eachi ng i t on Mar ch nt h.

I t was f r om t he Makol ol o, who had set t l ed at t he

j unct i on of t he Shi r e and t he Ruo, t he Bi shop' s

r i ver , t hat t hey hear d t he st or y. The Bi shop had

sent a par t y t o f i nd a shor t er r out e t o t he Shi r e f r om

Magomer o. They wer e at t acked i n a sl ave- t r adi ng

^Li vi ngst one' s l et t er s show hi m a l i t t l e out of sor t s at t he

mani f ol d obst r uct i ons t hat had al ways been maki ng hi m " t oo

l at e" — " t oo l at e f or Rovuma bel ow, t oo l at e f or Rovuma above,

and now t oo l at e f or our own appoi nt ment , " but i n gr eat er

t r oubl e because t he " Lady Nyassa" had not been sent by sea,

as he had st r ongl y ur ged, and as i t af t er war d appear ed mi ght

have been done qui t e wel l . To t ake out t he pi eces and f i t t hem

up woul d i nvol ve heavy expense and l ong del ay, and per haps

t he season woul d be l ost agai n. But Li vi ngst one had al ways

a savi ng cl ause, i n al l hi s l ament at i ons, and her e i t i s; " I

know t hat al l was done f or t he best . "

THE UNI VERSI TI ES MI SSI ON. 165

vi l l age and t wo Manganj a car r i er s capt ur ed. The

wi ves came t o t he Bi shop, i mpl or i ng hi m t o r escue

t hem. At l ast he compl i ed, and, t aki ng wi t h hi m a

guar d of t he Makol ol o ( who wer e del i ght ed wi t h

t he chance of ' ' eat i ng t he sheep of t he sl ave- t r ad-

er s" ) , r escued t he capt i ves, and bur ned t he vi l l age of

t he capt or s. The Bi shop and hi s par t y r et ur ned t o

Magomer o. He was i l l and exhaust ed, but t hough

unf i t f or t r avel l i ng, st ar t ed at once wi t h Mr . Bur r up

t o keep an appoi nt ment at Chi bi sa' s. On t he way

hi s canoe upset , and he l ost al l hi s medi ci nes, t ea,

cof f ee, and cl ot hi ng. They got t o a smal l i sl and on

t he Ruo, wher e t he Bi shop di ed af t er t hr ee weeks'

pr ost r at i on.

Mr . Bur r up, af t er bur yi ng hi s chi ef , was car r i ed

back by t he f ai t hf ul Makol ol o t o Magomer o, wher e

he, t oo, di ed.

' Thi s wi l l hur t us al l , " Li vi ngst one mused sadl y,

r est i ng hi s head on hi s hand i n t he l i t t l e cabi n of t he

" Pi oneer . " When t he news r eached home an angr y

cont r over sy ar ose, some bl ami ng t he Bi shop, some

Li vi ngst one. Though bound t o admi t t hat he had

gi ven counsel t o t he Mi ssi on never t o i nt er f er e i n

nat i ve quar r el s, t he Doct or , wi t h char act er i st i c gen-

er osi t y, decl ar ed t hat had he been t her e he shoul d

have t aken t he same vi ew as t he Bi shop. " The

bl ow i s qui t e bewi l der i ng, " he wr ot e t o t he Bi shop

of Cape Town. " The t wo st r ongest men so qui ckl y

cut down, and one of t hem, humanl y speaki ng, i ndi s -

166 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

pensabl e t o success. . . . I cannot hel p f eel i ng

Page 99 of 182

sadl y di st ur bed, i n vi ew of t he ef f ect t he news may

have at home. I shal l not swer ve a hai r ' s br eadt h

f r om my wor k whi l e l i f e i s spar ed, and I t r ust t he

suppor t er s of t he Mi ssi on may not shr i nk back f r om

al l t hey have set t hei r hear t s t o. "

CHAPTER X.

RECALL VOYAGE TO I NDI A.

1863- 64.

I t was wi t h a sad hear t t hat Li vi ngst one car r i ed

Capt ai n Wi l son and t he ber eaved l adi es down t o

Kongone t o meet t he ' ' Gor gon. " She had been

obl i ged t o l eave t he bar f r om st r ess of weat her , and

t he ' Ti oneer " was det ai ned at t hat most unheal t hy

spot t i l l Apr i l 4t h, when she r et ur ned, and Capt ai n

Wi l son sai l ed away, t aki ng wi t h hi m t he hear t f el t

gr at i t ude of Li vi ngst one f or hi s spl endi d hel p and

sympat hy. The ' ' Pi oneer " st eamed back t o Shu-

panga on Apr i l nt h, bear i ng a f ever - st r i cken

f r ei ght . Then came t he l ast f ew days of hi s mar -

r i ed l i f e. Ther e had al ways been i n t hei r i nt er cour se

" what woul d be t hought by some mor e t han a de-

cor ous amount of mer r i ment and pl ay. . . . I

sai d t o her a f ew days bef or e her f at al i l l ness, * We

ol d bodi es ought now t o be mor e sober , and not pl ay

so much. ' ' Oh, no/ she sai d ; ' you must al ways be

as pl ayf ul as you have al ways been. . . . I have

al ways bel i eved i t t o be t he t r ue way, t o l et t he head

gr ow wi se, but keep t he hear t young and pl ayf ul . ' "

We ar e now ar r i ved at t he l ast i l l ness and t he

167

168 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

deat h of Mr s. Li vi ngst one. Af t er she had par t ed

f r om her husband at t he Cape i n t he spr i ng of 1858,

she r et ur ned wi t h her par ent s t o Kur uman, and i n

November gave bi r t h t her e t o her youngest chi l d,

Anna Mar y. Ther eaf t er she r et ur ned t o Scot l and,

t o be near her ot her chi l dr en. Some of t hem wer e

at school . No comf or t abl e home f or t hem al l coul d

be f or med, and t hough many f r i ends wer e ki nd, t he

t i me was not a happy one. Mr s. Li vi ngst one' s de-

si r e t o be wi t h her husband was i nt ense ; not onl y t he

l ongi ngs of an af f ect i onat e hear t , and t he necessi t y

of t aki ng counsel wi t h hi m about t he f ami l y, but t he

f eel i ng t hat when over shadowed by one whose f ai t h

was so st r ong her f l ut t er i ng hear t woul d r egai n i t s

st eady t one, and she woul d be bet t er abl e t o hel p bot h

hi m and t he chi l dr en, gave vehemence t o t hi s desi r e.

Her l et t er s t o her husband t el l of much spi r i t ual

dar kness ; hi s r epl i es wer e t he ver y soul of t ender ness

and Chr i st i an ear nest ness. Pr ovi dence seemed t o

f avor her wi sh ; t he vessel i n whi ch she sai l ed was

pr eser ved f r om i mmi nent dest r uct i on, and she had

Page 100 of 182

t he gr eat happi ness of f i ndi ng her husband al i ve and

wel l

On t he 2 1 St of Apr i l she was st r i cken wi t h t he

f ever , on t he 25t h she became del i r i ous, on t he 27t h

( Sunday) she di ed, and Mr . St ewar t f ound t he man

who had " f aced so many deat hs, and br aved so many

danger s, now ut t er l y br oken down, and weepi ng l i ke

a chi l d. " " Oh, my Mar y, my Mar y! how of t en we

RECALL— VOYAGE TO I NDI A. 169

have l onged f or a qui et home si nce you and I wer e

cast adr i f t at Kol obeng. . . . She r est s by t he

l ar ge baobab t r ee at Shupanga, si xt y f eet i n ci r cum-

f er ence. The men asked t o be al l owed t o mount

guar d t i l l we had got t he gr ave bui l t wi t h br i cks dug

f r om an ol d house. " * ' Kongone, May nt h. — My

dear , dear Mar y has been t hi s eveni ng a f or t ni ght i n

Heaven. . . . For t he f i r st t i me i n my l i f e I

f eel wi l l i ng t o di e. D. L. " So comment s t he

Jour nal .

The headi ng of t he l ast ext r act , * ' Kongone, "

shows t hat even t hi s sor r ow was not al l owed t o i n-

t er r upt hi s wor k. He had gone down agai n t o br i ng

up t he l ast por t i ons of t he " Lady Nyassa, " whi ch

w^ as now f i ni shed and l aunched on June 23d, t oo l at e

f or ascendi ng t he Shi r e. The December r ai ns must

set i n bef or e she coul d be got up t o t he Mur chi son

Fal l s. He t ur ned once mor e t o t he Rovuma, as-

cendi ng one hundr ed and f i f t y- si x mi l es i n boat s, i n

t he hope t hat i t mi ght be f ound t o come f r om t he

nor t her n end of Lake Nyassa. Hel ped by t he cap-

t ai n of H. M. S. ' ' Or est es, " he now sat i sf i ed hi msel f

t hat t her e was no wat er way t o t he east coast f r om

t hat l ake. On t he upper par t t he char act er of t he

peopl e changed. They became t r eacher ous and hos-

t i l e, and t her e was no t r ade, f or her e t he bal ef ul t r ack

of t he Ar ab sl ave- deal er s cr ossed t he r i ver . Li vi ng-

st one r et ur ned t o t he shi p, a mor e det er mi ned enemy

t han ever of t he t r af f i c, whi ch was r ui ni ng t he whol e

1^ 0 t HE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

r egi oHo He r eached t he Zambesi i n November , but

onl y got up t o Shupanga by December 19t h. He

was evi dent l y r at her r el i eved t o f i nd t hat t he Zam-

besi must r emai n t he hi ghway t o Lake Nyassa and

t he count r y beyond. ' ' I t may seem weak, " he wr ot e

t o Si r R. Mur chi son, ' ' t o f eel a chor d vi br at i ng t o

t he dust of her who r est s on t he banks of t he Zam-

besi , and t o t hi nk t hat t he pat h by t hat i s consecr at ed

by her r emai ns. " *

I n Januar y, 1863, he was wor ki ng up t he Shi r e

* Li vi ngst one had t he sat i sf act i on of knowi ng t hat hi s ac -

count of t he t r i p t o Lake Nyassa had exci t ed much i nt er est

i n t he Cabi net at home, and t hat a st r ong r emonst r ance had

Page 101 of 182

been addr essed t o t he Por t uguese Gover nment agai nst sl ave-

hunt i ng. But i t does not appear t hat t hi s l ed t o any i mpr ove-

ment at t he t i me.

Whi l e st ung i nt o mor e t han or di nar y ener gy by t he at r o-

ci ous deeds he wi t nessed ar ound hi m, Li vi ngst one was l i vi ng

near t he bor der s of t he unseen wor l d. He wr i t es t o Si r

Thomas Macl ear on t he 27t h of Oct ober , 1862:

" I suppose t hat I shal l di e i n t hese upl ands, and somebody

wi l l car r y out t he pl an I have l onged t o put i nt o pr act i ce.

I have been t hi nki ng a gr eat deal si nce t he depar t ur e of my

bel oved one about t he r egi ons whi t her she has gone, and i m-

agi ne f r om t he manner t he Bi bl e descr i bes i t we have got t oo

much monker y i n our i deas. Ther e wi l l be wor k t her e as

wel l as her e, and possi bl y not such a vast di f f er ence i n our

bei ng as i s expect ed. But a: shor t t i me t her e wi l l gi ve mor e i n-

si ght t han a t housand musi ngs. We shal l see Hi m by whose

i nexpr essi bl e l ove and mer cy we get t her e, and al l whom we

l oved, and al l t he l ovabl e. I can sympat hi ze wi t h you now

mor e f ul l y t han I di d bef or e. I wor k wi t h as much vi gor as

I can, and mean t o do so t i l l t he change comes ; but t he pr os -

pect of a home i s al l di spel l ed. "

RECALL- VOYAGE TO I NDI A. m

once mor e i n t he " Pi oneer , " t he " Lady Nyassa" i n

t ow, meani ng t o unscr ew t he l at t er , car r y her past

t he Mur chi son Fal l s, and l aunch her on t he l ake.

Al l hi s f or mer exper i ence was dwar f ed i n hor r or on

t hi s voyage. The banks, so f l our i shi ng ei ght een

mont hs bef or e, wer e now a deser t , t he f ew sur vi vor s

cower i ng i n t he r i ver - swamps. I n t he mor ni ng t he

paddl es had t o be cl ear ed of cor pses. " The cor pses

we saw f l oat i ng down t he r i ver wer e onl y a r emnant

of t hose t hat had per i shed, whom t hei r f r i ends f r om

weakness coul d not bur y, nor t he over - gor ged cr oco-

di l es devour . " They vi si t ed t he Bi shop' s gr ave, and

f ound t he r el i cs of t he Mi ssi on. Di ckenson, Scuda-

mor e, and Thor nt on wer e dead si nce t he hi gher l and

of Magomer o had been abandoned. What wonder

t hat Dr . Ki r k and Char l es Li vi ngst one br oke down

now and had t o be sent home, t hough not t i l l t he

f or mer had seen Li vi ngst one t hr ough a bad at t ack

of dysent er y! He had, however , been j oi ned by

Young, f r om t he " Gor gon, " and Rae, t he engi neer ,

st i l l hel d out — t he l ast Engl i shman l ef t of t he or i gi -

nal expedi t i on. But not hi ng coul d daunt t he ol d

her o, who pr epar ed t o unscr ew t he " Lady Nyassa"

and car r y her sect i ons past t he f al l s, t her e t o be put

t oget her agai n. He had pr epar ed t he f i r st par t of

t he r oad over whi ch she was t o be car r i ed when a

despat ch r ecal l i ng t he expedi t i on was r ecei ved f r om

Lor d Russel l .

For t hi s he was not unpr epar ed. The l ocal Por t u-

i n THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

guese aut hor i t i es had r oused t hei r gover nment , wha

Page 102 of 182

had been pr essi ng at t he Engl i sh For ei gn Of f i ce t hei r

obj ect i ons t o hi s act i on i n Af r i ca. The f ai l ur e of

t he Uni ver si t i es Mi ssi on pr obabl y hast ened Lor d

Russel l ' s act i on. " The Gover nment has behaved

wel l t o us t hr oughout , " Li vi ngst one wr ot e, " and I

f eel t hankf ul t o t hem f or enabl i ng us t o car r y on t he

exper i ment s But t he Por t uguese dogged our f oot -

st eps, and, as i s gener al l y under st ood, wi t h t he ap-

pr obat i on of t hei r home gover nment , neut r al i zed our

l abor s. " To Mr . Wal l er he wr ot e: ' T don' t know

whet her I am t o go on t he shel f or not . I f I do, I

make Af r i ca t hat shel f . I f t he Tady Nyassa' i s

wel l sol d, I shal l manage. " He had spent

6, 000 on

her — mor e t han hal f of al l he had ear ned by hi s

wr i t i ngs . I t was , howev er , i mpos s i bl e t o get t he

" Pi oneer " down bef or e Dec ember , when s he was t o

be handed bac k t o t he Gov er nment ; s o i n t he mean-

t i me he r es ol v ed on anot her ex pl or i ng t r i p. He

f i x ed on t he nor t h- nor t hwes t , i n or der t o s at i s f y hi m-

sel f whet her any l ar ge r i v er f l owed i nt o Ny as s a f r om

Cent r al Af r i c a; and hoped t o get as f ar as Lak e

Bemba, not y et r eac hed by any whi t e man, and t o get

i nf or mat i on as t o t he gr eat s l av e- r out e t o t he wes t

coas t , whi c h he had al r eady c r os s ed t o t he eas t of

Lak e Ny as s a. *

* At no pr ev i ous t i me had Dr . Li v i ngs t one been under

gr eat er di s c our agement s t han now. The Ex pedi t i on had been

r ec al l ed; hi s hear t had not r ec ov er ed f r om t he des ol at i on

RECALL— VOYAGE TO I NDI A. 173

He s t ar t ed on Augus t 15t h wi t h one Eur opean

compani on and f i v e Mak ol ol o, whom he hel d t o be

wor t h f i f t y of any of t he eas t er n t r i bes . The men of

t hat t r i be whom he had br ought f r om Cent r al Af r i c a

had f or med a s t r ong s et t l ement , wi t h ot her s who had

j oi ned t hem, near t he Mur c hi s on Fal l s , and hav i ng

guns , wer e unmol es t ed by t he s l av e- t r ader s . Thes e

caus ed by t he deat h of t he Bi s hop and hi s br et hr en, as wel l

as t he Hel mor es i n t he Mak ol ol o c ount r y , and s t i l l mor e by

t he r emov al of Mr s . Li v i ngs t one, and t he t hought of hi s mot h-

er l es s c hi l dr en ; t he mos t hear t - r endi ng s c enes had been wi t -

nes s ed ev er y wher e i n r egi ons t hat a s hor t t i me ago had been

so br i ght ; al l hi s ef f or t s t o do good had been t ur ned t o ev i l ,

ev er y new pat h he had opened hav i ng been s ei z ed as i t wer e

by t he dev i l and t ur ned t o t he mos t di abol i c al ends ; hi s c oun-

t r y men wer e near l y al l away f r om hi m; t he mos t depr es s i ng

of di s eas es had pr oduc ed i t s nat ur al ef f ec t ; he had had wor -

r i es , del ay s , and di s appoi nt ment s about s hi ps and boat s of t he

mos t har as s i ng k i nd, and now t he " Lady Ny as s a" c oul d

not be f l oat ed i n t he wat er s of whi c h he had f ondl y hoped

t o s ee her t he angel and t he queen. I t i s har dl y pos s i bl e t o

ex agger at e t he nobl e qual i t y of t he hear t t hat , undet er r ed by

al l t hes e t r oubl es , r es ol v ed t o t ak e t hi s l as t c hanc e of ex pl or -

i ng t he bank s of Ny as s a, al t hough i t c oul d onl y be by t he

wear y pr oc es s of t r udge, t r udge, t r udgi ng; al t hough hunger ,

i f not s t ar v at i on, bl oc k ed t he pat h, and f ev er and dy s ent er y

f l i t t ed ar ound i t l i k e i mps of dar k nes s ; al t hough t r i bes , de-

mor al i z ed by t he s l av e- t r ade, mi ght at any moment put an

end t o hi m and hi s ent er pr i s e — not t o s peak of t he or di nar y

Page 103 of 182

r i s k s of t r av el , t he di f f i c ul t y of f i ndi ng gui des , t he l i abi l i t y t o

bodi l y hur t , t he s c ar c i t y of f ood, t he per i l s f r om wi l d beas t s

by ni ght and by day — r i s k s whi c h no or di nar y t r av el l er c oul d

t hi nk of l i ght l y , but whi c h i n Li v i ngs t one' s j our ney s dr op out

of s i ght , bec aus e t hey ar e s o ov er t opped and dwar f ed by

r i s k s t hat or di nar y t r av el l er s nev er k now.

l U THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

had been dr i v en bac k f r om anot her t r ac t of c ount r y

t hr ough whi c h t hey now pas s ed. Li v i ngs t one f ound

t he peopl e f r i endl y , but s us pi c i ous . He was r e-

f r es hed on t hi s par t of t he j our ney by hear i ng agai n

t he mer r y l augh of t he women, " t he s ound of whi c h

does me good. " I t pr ov ed t o be a wondr ous l y f er t i l e

count r y , wi t h oc c as i onal s c enes of gr eat beaut y ; one,

t he Val e of Goa, r emi ndi ng hi m of t he Thames at

Ri c hmond. On Sept ember 5t h t hei r c our s e was

al t er ed t o t he nor t heas t , and af t er t ouc hi ng Lak e

Ny as s a agai n, t hey ent er ed r egi ons dev as t at ed by t he

sl av e- t r ade. Fol l owi ng t he gr eat s l av e- r out e ov er

f i ne hi l l c ount r y , wher e t he br ac i ng ai r r ev i v ed t he

Engl i s hmen and pr os t r at ed t hei r c ompani ons , t hey

had t o t ur n bac k on Sept ember 30t h, when onl y t en

day s ' mar c h f r om an unex pl or ed l ak e c al l ed Bemba. *

The t empt at i on t o go on was gr eat , but Li v i ngs t one

knew t hat t her e woul d be no mor e wages f or hi s men

af t er Dec ember , s o r el uc t ant l y t ur ned bac k .

They r eac hed t he s hi ps on Nov ember i s t , hav i ng

mar c hed s ev en hundr ed and s i x t y mi l es i n f i f t y - f i v e

t r av el l i ng day s , an av er age of t wel v e mi l es a day .

The f l ood di d not c ome f or near l y t wo mont hs , but

what t r i ed Li v i ngs t one f ar mor e t han t he del ay was

a l et t er f r om t he new Bi s hop, Toz er , i nf or mi ng hi m

t hat t he Mi s s i on w^ as t o be wi t hdr awn t o Zanz i bar .

* The r eader wi l l s ee t hat Li v i ngs t one s ubs equent l y di s c ov -

er ed t hi s l ak e, whi c h i s Bangweol o ; hi s hear t l i es bur i ed at

I l al a, on i t s s out her n s hor e.

RECALL- VOYAGE TO I NDI A. 175

" I hope, dear Bi s hop, " he wr ot e, ' ' y ou wi l l not deem

me i mper t i nent i n wr i t i ng t o y ou wi t h a s or e hear t .

I f y ou go, t he bes t hopes f or t hi s wr et c hed, down-

t r odden peopl e di s appear , and I agai n ent r eat y ou

' f r om t he bot t om of my hear t t o r ec ons i der t he mat -

t er . " The Bi s hop, howev er , per s i s t ed. Li v i ngs t one

f el t t hi s f ar mor e t han hi s own r ec al l

— ' ' c oul d har dl y

wr i t e of i t " — " f el t mor e i nc l i ned t o s i t down and

cr y . " Al l he c oul d do was t o ar r ange t hat s ome

t hi r t y c hi l dr en, who s eemed l i k el y t o be abandoned,

shoul d be s ent t o t he Cape. He t ook t hem down t o

t he c oas t i n t he " Pi oneer , " f r om whenc e, under Mr .

Wal l er ' s c ar e, t hey wer e f or war ded t o t he Cape. *

On Febr uar y 13t h t hey r eac hed t he c oas t , and t he

" Pi oneer " was handed ov er t o t he c apt ai n of H. M. S.

Page 104 of 182

" Or es t es . " The " Ar i el , " her c ons or t , t ook t he

" Lady Ny as s a" i n t ow f or Moz ambi que. Capt ai n

Chapman of f er ed Li v i ngs t one a ber t h on t he " Ar i el , "

but he c hos e t o r emai n i n t he " Lady Ny as s a, " wi t h

t he t hr ee Engl i s h s ai l or s and t he nat i v e c r ew. On

* And t hus , f or Li v i ngs t one' s l i f e- t i me, ended t he Uni v er s i -

t i es Mi s s i on t o Cent r al Af r i c a, wi t h al l t he hopes whi c h i t s

br i ght dawn had i ns pi r ed, t hat t he gr eat Chur c h of Engl and

woul d bend i t s s t r engt h agai ns t t he c ur s e of Af r i c a, and s weep

i t f r om t he f ac e of t he ear t h. Wr i t i ng t o Si r Thomas Mac l ear ,

he s ai d t hat he f el t t hi s muc h mor e t han hi s own r ec al l . No

mi s s i on had ev er had s uc h br i ght pr os pec t s ; not wi t hs t andi ng

al l t hat had been s ai d agai ns t i t , he s t ood by t he c l i mat e as

f i r ml y as ev er , and i f he wer e onl y y oung, he woul d go hi m-

sel f and pl ant t he gos pel t her e. I t woul d be done one day

wi t hout f ai l , t hough he mi ght not l i v e t o s ee i t .

176 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t he 15 t h t hey wer e c aught i n a hur r i c ane, whi c h

dr ov e t he " Ar i el " bac k s t r ai ght on t he " Lady

Ny as s a, " whi l e t he t owi ng haws er got r ound her

sc r ew and s t opped i t . " We on t he l i t t l e v es s el s aw

no c hanc e of es c ape, but s he gl i ded pas t our bow, and

we br eat hed f i ; eel y agai n. We had now an oppor -

t uni t y of wi t nes s i ng man- of - war s eamans hi p. Cap-

t ai n Chapman, t hough hi s engi nes wer e di s abl ed, di d

not t hi nk of abandoni ng us i n t he heav y gal e, but

cr os s ed t he bows of t he ' Lady Ny as s a' agai n and

agai n, dr oppi ng a c as k wi t h a l i ne t o gi v e us anot her

haws er . We mi ght nev er hav e pi c k ed i t up had not

a Kr ooman j umped ov er boar d and f as t ened a s ec ond

l i ne t o t he c as k . We pas s ed a t er r i bl e ni ght , but t he

Tady Ny as s a' di d wonder f ul l y wel l , r i s i ng l i k e a

l i t t l e duc k ov er t he f oami ng wav es . Capt ai n Chap-

man and hi s of f i c er s pr onounc ed her t he f i nes t l i t t l e

sea- boat t hey had ev er s een. "

What was t o be done now ? The " Lady Ny as s a"

mus t be s ol d. The Por t ugues e wi s hed t o buy her ,

but t hi s Li v i ngs t one woul d not hear of , as s he woul d

hav e been us ed as a s l av er . The near es t pos s i bl e

mar k et was Bombay , t went y - f i v e hundr ed mi l es of f

ac r os s t he I ndi an Oc ean. He had been c apt ai n and

pi l ot on t he Zambes i and Shi r e f or y ear s , why not on

t he open s ea? Ac c or di ngl y , on Apr i l 30t h, he

st ar t ed f or Bombay wi t h f our t een t ons of c oal on

boar d, hi ms el f f or c apt ai n and pi l ot , t he t hr ee Eng-

l i s h s ai l or s , s ev en nat i v e men, and t wo boy s , who

RECALL— VOYAGE TO I NDI A. 177

pr ov ed t hems el v es c api t al s ai l or s , t hough t hey nev er

had s een t he s ea t i l l now.

I t was an ex pl oi t wor t hy of t he man. Spi t e of

squal l s and c al ms , f or t hey wx r e obl i ged t o k eep mos t

of t hei r c oal f or t he I ndi an c oas t , he r an i nt o t he

har bor of Bombay on J une 13, 1864. ' The v es s el

Page 105 of 182

was s o s mal l t hat no one not i c ed our ar r i v al . ' *

Af t er r ewar di ng and pr ov i di ng f or hi s c r ew he

st ar t ed f or Engl and, and ar r i v ed at Char i ng Cr os s

St at i on on J ul y 21s t . *

* Look i ng bac k on t he wor k of t he l as t s i x y ear s , whi l e

deepl y gr i ev ed t hat t he gr eat obj ec t of t he Ex pedi t i on had not

been ac hi ev ed, Dr . Li v i ngs t one was abl e t o poi nt t o s ome

i mpor t ant r es ul t s :

1. The di s c ov er y of t he Kongone har bor , and t he as c er -

t ai ni ng of t he c ondi t i on of t he Zambes i Ri v er , and i t s f i t nes s

f or nav i gat i on.

2. The as c er t ai ni ng of t he c apac i t y of t he s oi l . I t was f ound

t o be admi r abl y adapt ed f or i ndi go and c ot t on, as wel l as

t obac c o, c as t or - oi l , and s ugar . I t s gr eat f er t i l i t y was s hown

by i t s gi gant i c gr as s es , and abundant c r ops of c or n and mai z e.

But ev er y f i ne f eat ur e of t he c ount r y was bat hed i n gl oom

by t he s l av e- t r ade. The i mage l ef t i n Dr . Li v i ngs t one' s mi nd

was not t hat of t he r i c h, s unny , l ux ur i ant c ount r y , but t hat

of t he woe and wr et c hednes s of t he peopl e. The r eal s er v i c e

of t he Ex pedi t i on was . t hat i t had ex pos ed s l av er y at i t s

f ount ai n- head, and i n al l i t s phas es . Fi r s t , t her e was t he i n-

t er nal s l av e- t r ade bet ween hos t i l e nat i v e t r i bes . Then, t her e

wer e t he s l av e- t r ader s f r om t he c oas t , Ar abs , or hal f - c as t e

Por t ugues e, f or whom nat i v es wer e enc our aged t o c ol l ec t

sl av es by al l t he hor r i bl e means of mar audi ng and mur der .

And f ur t her , t her e wer e t he par t i es s ent out f r om Por t ugues e

and Ar ab c oas t t owns , wi t h c l ot h and beads , mus k et s and am-

muni t i on. The des t r uc t i v e and mur der ous ef f ec t s of t he l as t

wer e t he c l i max of t he s y s t em.

CHAPTER XL

SECOND VI SI T HOME.

1864- 650

On t he af t er noon of J ul y 21, 1864, Li v i ngs t one

r eac hed t he Tav i s t oc k Hot el , Cov ent Gar den, and

af t er a has t y di nner , wal k ed down t o c al l on Si r R.

Mur c hi s on. I t was t he l as t y ear of Lor d Pal mer -

st on' s l as t admi ni s t r at i on, and t he ev eni ng of one of

t he r emar k abl e week l y gat her i ngs i n Pi c c adi l l y ,

whi c h made hi s Gov er nment s o s t r ong s oc i al l y , and

di d s o muc h t o r al l y t o hi m ev er y not abl e Engl i s h-

man out s i de of pol i t i c s . ' ' Si r Roder i c k , " t he J our -

nal not es , " t ook me of f wi t h hi m, j us t as I was , t o

Lady Pal mer s t on' s r ec ept i on. My l ady v er y gr a-

ci ous . Gav e me t ea her s el f . Lor d Pal mer s t on l ook -

i ng v er y wel l . Had t wo c onv er s at i ons wi t h hi m

about t he s l av e- t r ade. Si r Roder i c k s ay s he i s mor e

i nt ent on mai nt ai ni ng hi s pol i c y on t hat t han on any

ot her t hi ng. And s o i s s he. A wonder f ul l y f i ne,

mat r onl y l ady . " He f ound al l London agai n at hi s

f eet , bought a dr es s s ui t , and s t ay ed f or a week , f i nd-

i ng Lor d Rus s el l at t he For ei gn Of f i c e c ol d, and Mr .

Lay ar d " war m and f r ank . "

Page 106 of 182

On August 1st he was wi t h hi s mot her and chi l -

178

SECOND VI SI T HOME. 179

dr en at Hami l t on, al l but hi s el dest , Rober t , a boy of

ei ght een, wi t h a ' ' deal of t he vagabond nat ur e of hi s

f at her i n hi m. " He had got out t o Nat al , i n t he

hope of r eachi ng hi s f at her ; but , f ai l i ng i n t hat , had

cr ossed t o Amer i ca and enl i st ed i n t he Feder al

Ar my. Af t er seei ng some har d ser vi ce, he was

t aken pr i soner , badl y wounded, and, dyi ng i n hospi -

t al , was bur i ed i n t he Nat i onal Cemet er y at Get t ys -

bur g, opened by Pr esi dent Li ncol n wi t h t he speech

whi ch r i val s Per i cl es' f uner al or at i on. " Hear d t he

sad news t hat Rober t i s i n t he Amer i can ar my, " t he

Jour nal not es at t hi s t i me. *

Af t er a vi si t t o t he Duke of Ar gyl l at I nver ar y —

" t he most del i ght f ul I ever pai d" — and a day i n

Ul va, wher e he f ound t he home hi s gr andf at her l i ved

* " 2d August . — Reached Hami l t on. Mot her di d not know me

at f i r st . Anna Mar y, a ni ce spr i ght l y chi l d, t ol d me t hat she

pr ef er r ed Gar i bal di but t ons on her dr ess, as I wal ked down

t o Dr . Loudon t o t hank hi m f or hi s ki ndness t o my mot her .

" 3d August . — Agnes, Oswal d, and Thomas came. I di d not

r ecogni ze Tom, he has gr own so much. Has been poor l y a

l ong v/ hi l e; congest i on of t he ki dney, i t i s sai d. Agnes qui t e

t al l , and Anna Mar y a ni ce l i t t l e gi r l . "

The next f ew days wer e spent wi t h hi s f ami l y, and i n vi si t s

t o t he nei ghbor hood. He had a consul t at i on wi t h Pr of essor

Syme as t o a sur gi cal oper at i on r ecommended f or an ai l ment

t hat had t r oubl ed hi m ever si nce hi s f i r st gr eat j our ney; he

was st r ongl y ur ged t o have t he oper at i on per f or med, and pr ob-

abl y i t woul d have been bet t er i f he had ; but he f i nal l y decl i ned,

par t l y because an ol d medi cal f r i end was agai nst i t , but chi ef l y,

as he t ol d Si r Roder i ck, because t he mat t er woul d get i nt o t he

l i ewspaper s, and he di d not l i ke t he publ i c t o be speaki ng of

hi s i nf j r mi t i ?§.

180 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

I n — ^ ' Uahm, or t he Cave, a shel t er ed spot wi t h basal -

t i c r ocks j ut t i ng out of t he gr ound bel ow t he cave ;

t he wal l s of t he house r emai n, and t he cor n and

pot at o pat ches ar e gr een, but no one l i ves t her e" — he

came sout h t o vi si t hi s ol d Af r i can comr ade, Mr .

Webb, t he gr eat hunt er , at Newst ead Abbey. Her e,

wi t h hi s daught er Agnes, he r emai ned f or ei ght

mont hs. At f i r st he r ef used hi s host ' s pr oposal t hat

he shoul d occupy t he Sussex t ower i n t he Abbey, as

he must get t o wor k on hi s book. Wher e coul d he

wor k at i t bet t er , Mr . and Mr s. Webb ur ged, and

pr evai l ed. So t her e he st ayed t i l l i t was f i ni shed, i n

' ' t he Li vi ngst one r oom, " hi s host and host ess, wi t h

hi s daught er Agnes, hel pi ng t o copy. On Apr i l 15,

Page 107 of 182

1865, he cal l ed Agnes t o wr i t e t he ' ' Fi ni s" at t he end

of t he MS. , and on t he 25t h l ef t Newst ead. " Par t ed

wi t h our good f r i ends, t he Webbs. And may God

bl ess and r ewar d t hem and t hei r f ami l y, " r uns t he

Jour nal .

He coul d now t ur n t o hi s pl ans f or t he f ut ur e, and

di d so wi t h hi s usual si ngl e- mi ndedness. He had

gi ven a l ect ur e t o t he Br i t i sh Associ at i on at Bat h i n

t he aut umn of 1864, i n whi ch he had t hr own down

t he gaunt l et t o t he Por t uguese. I t had been t aken

up by a Senhor Lacer da, i n t he of f i ci al j our nal of

Por t ugal , i n a ser i es of ar t i cl es r epubl i shed i n Eng-

l and by t he Por t uguese Gover nment . Li vi ngst one' s

obj ect , i t ur ged, under t he pr et ext of spr eadi ng t he

Wor d of God and t he advancement of geogr aphy

SECOND VI SI T HOME. 181

and nat ur al sci ence, was r eal l y t o cause t he l oss of

t he commer ce of t he i nt er i or t o t he Por t uguese, and

i n t he end t hat of t hei r pr ovi nces. " I t was obvi -

ous, " t he of f i ci al wr i t er summed up, " f r om what he

decl ar ed as hi s own i nt ent i ons, t hat such men ought

t o be ef f i ci ent l y wat ched, and t hei r audaci ous and

mi schi evous act i ons r est r ai ned. ' " Hi s new book,

Li vi ngst one w^ el l knew, woul d r ouse even deeper hos-

t i l i t y, and hi s f ut ur e wor k must be out si de Por t u-

guese t er r i t or y.

Si r Roder i ck, on behal f of t he Geogr aphi cal Soci -

et y, was anxi ous t hat he shoul d go out pur el y as an

expl or er , t o set t l e f i nal l y t he quest i on of t he wat er -

sheds of Sout h Af r i ca, begi nni ng at t he Rovuma,

and so get t i ng t o Lake Tanganyi ka. I f he coul d

t hen get t o t he west and come out on t hat coast , or

coul d r each t he Whi t e Ni l e t o t he nor t h, he " woul d

br i ng back an unr i val ed r eput at i on, and have set t l ed

al l t he di sput es now pendi ng. " ' ' Answer ed Si r

Roder i ck about goi ng out , " t he Jour nal not es.

" Sai d I coul d onl y f eel i n t he way of dut y by wor k -

i ng as a mi ssi onar y. " Then came an i nf or mal mes-

sage f r om Lor d Pal mer st on, t o i nqui r e w^ hat t he

Gover nment coul d do f or hi m. ' Tr ee access t o t he

hi ghl ands beyond by t he Zambesi and Shi r e, secur ed

by t r eat y wi t h Por t ugal , " was hi s answer . The

Pr emi er had made t he i nqui r y wi t h a vi ew^ t o pr o-

pose a pensi on. *

* I t was at t hi s t i me t hat Mr . Haywar d, Q. C. , whi l e on a

182 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

I n May, whi l e hi s pr epar at i ons wer e goi ng on, he

was bef or e a Commi t t ee of t he House of Commons

on t he West Coast of Af r i ca, wher e he pr ot est ed

vi gor ousl y agai nst Br i t ai n' s ' ' monst r ous mi st ake as

t o mi ssi onar i es. " ' ' I t ol d t he Commi t t ee, " he wr ot e

t o Webb, ' ' t hat I had hear d peopl e say t hat Chr i s -

t i ani t y made t he bl acks wor se, but di d not agr ee wi t h

Page 108 of 182

t hem. I mi ght have sai d i t was ' r ot ' ; and t r ul y I

can st and a good deal of bosh, but t o t el l me t hat

Chr i st i ani t y makes peopl e wor se — Ugh! Tel l t hat

t o t he young t r out s. You know on what si de I am,

and I shal l st and t o my si de, ol d Pam f ashi on,

t hr ough t hi ck and t hi n. I don' t agr ee wi t h al l my

si de say and do. I won' t j ust i f y many t hi ngs, but

f or t he gr eat cause of human pr ogr ess I am hear t

and soul , and so ar e you. " *

vi si t t o Newst ead, br ought an i nf or mal message f r om Lor d

Pal mer st on, who wi shed t o know what he coul d do- f or Li v-

i ngst one. Had Li vi ngst one been a vai n man, wi shi ng a handl e

t o hi s name, or had he even been bent on get t i ng what woul d

be r easonabl e i n t he way of sal ar y f or hi msel f , or of al l ow-

ance f or hi s chi l dr en, now was hi s chance of accompl i shi ng

hi s obj ect . But so si ngl e- hear t ed was he i n hi s phi l ant hr opy

t hat such t hought s di d not so much as ent er hi s mi nd; t her e

was one t hi ng, and one onl y, whi ch he wi shed Lor d Pal mer -

st on t o secur e — f r ee access t o t he hi ghl ands, by t he Zambesi

and Shi r e, t o be made good by a t r eat y wi t h Por t ugal . I t i s

sat i sf act or y t o r ecor d t hat t he For ei gn Of f i ce has at l ast made

ar r angement s t o t hi s ef f ect .

* Dr . Li vi ngst one was asked at t hi s t i me t o at t end a publ i c

meet i ng on behal f of Amer i can f r eedom. I t was not i n hi s

power t o go, but , i n apol ogi zi ng, he was at pai ns t o expr ess

SECOND VI SI T HOME. 183

I n June he got a t el egr am announci ng hi s mot her ' s

deat h. He had onl y l ef t her a f ew days, and was at

Oxf or d l ect ur i ng. He hur r i ed back t o t he f uner al .

" I n 1858 she sai d t o me she woul d l i ke one of her

l addi es t o l ay her head i n t he gr ave. I t so happened

I was t her e t o pay t he l ast t r i but e t o a dear , good

mot her . "

A f ew days l at er he was per suaded wi t h di f f i cul t y

t o go t o t he exami nat i on of t he school wher e hi s son

Oswel l was. He had t o speak t o t he boys, and hi s

hi s opi ni on on t he capaci t y of t he negr o, i n connect i on wi t h

what was goi ng on i n t he Uni t ed St at es :

* ' Our ki nsmen acr oss t he At l ant i c deser ve our war mest

sympat hy. They have passed, and ar e passi ng, t hr ough t r i al s,

and ar e encompassed wi t h di f f i cul t i es whi ch compl et el y dwar f

t hose of our I r i sh f ami ne, and not t he l east of t hem i s t he

quest i on, what t o do wi t h t hose f r eedmen f or whose exi st ence

as sl aves i n Amer i ca our own f or ef at her s have so much t o

answer . The i nt r oduct i on of a degr aded r ace f r om a bar ba-

r ous count r y was a gi gant i c evi l , and i f t he r ace cannot be el e-

vat ed, an evi l beyond r emedy. Mi l l i ons can nei t her be amal ga-

mat ed nor t r anspor t ed, and t he pr esence of degr adat i on i s a

cont agi on whi ch pr opagat es i t sel f among t he mor e ci vi l i zed.

But I have no f ear s as t o t he ment al and mor al capaci t y of

t he Af r i cans f or ci vi l i zat i on and upwar d pr ogr ess. We who

suppose our sel ves t o have vaul t ed at one bound t o t he ext r eme

of ci vi l i zat i on, and smack our l i ps so l oudl y over our hi gh

el evat i on, may f i nd i t di f f i cul t t o r eal i ze t he debasement t o

whi ch sl aver y has sunk t hose men, or t o appr eci at e what , i n

Page 109 of 182

t he di sci pl i ne of t he sad school of bondage, i s i n a st at e of

f r eedom r eal and subst ant i al pr ogr ess. But I , who have been

i nt i mat e wi t h Af r i cans who have never been def i l ed by t he

sl ave- t r ade, bel i eve t hem t o be capabl e of hol di ng an honor abl e

r ank i n t he f ami l y of man, "

184 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

l ast wor ds t o t hem — i ndeed t he l ast wor ds he ever

spoke i n Scot l and publ i cl y — wer e, ' Tear God, and

wor k har d. "

Hi s ar r angement s wi t h t he Gover nment and t he

Geogr aphi cal Soci et y wer e f i ni shed ear l y i n August .

Each of t hem gave hi m 500, t o whi ch a pr i vat e

f r i end added

1, 000. He was c ont i nued as Cons ul ,

but wi t hout s al ar y . Shabby t er ms enough, as he

knew wel l hi ms el f , f or

2, 000 woul d be qui t e i ns uf f i -

ci ent t o pay hi s , nec es s ar y ex pens es . But he was t oo

pr oud t o r emons t r at e, and meant t o pr ov i de t he def i -

ci enc y by s el l i ng t he " Lady Ny as s a" at Bombay .

Dr . Li v i ngs t one' s l as t week s i n Engl and wer e

pas s ed under t he r oof of t he l at e Rev . Dr . Hami l t on,

aut hor of ' ' Li f e i n Ear nes t , " and c oul d har dl y hav e

been pas s ed i n a mor e c ongeni al home. Nat i v es of

t he s ame par t of Sc ot l and, near l y of an age, and r e-

sembl i ng eac h ot her muc h i n t as t e and c har ac t er , t he

t wo men dr ew gr eat l y t o eac h ot her . The s ame

Pur i t an f ai t h l ay at t he bas i s of t hei r r el i gi ous c har -

ac t er , wi t h al l i t s s t abi l i t y and f i r mnes s . But abov e

al l , t hey had put on c har i t y , whi c h i s t he bond of

per f ec t nes s . I n Nat ur al Hi s t or y , t oo, t hey had an

equal ent hus i as m. I n Dr . Hami l t on, Li v i ngs t one

f ound what he mi s s ed i n many or t hodox men. On

t he ev eni ng of hi s l as t Sunday , he was pr ev ai l ed on

t o gi v e an addr es s i n Dr . Hami l t on' s c hur c h, af t er

hav i ng i n t he mor ni ng r ec ei v ed t he Communi on wi t h

t he c ongr egat i on. I n hi s addr es s he v i ndi c at ed hi s

SECOND VI SI T HOME. 185

char ac t er as a mi s s i onar y , and dec l ar ed t hat i t was

as muc h as ev er hi s gr eat obj ec t t o pr oc l ai m t he l ov e

of Chr i s t , whi c h t hey had been c ommemor at i ng t hat

day . Hi s pr ay er s made a deep i mpr es s i on ; t hey wer e

l i k e t he c ommuni ngs of a c hi l d wi t h hi s f at her . At

t he r ai l way s t at i on, t he l as t Sc ot c h hands gr as ped

by hi m wer e t hos e of Dr . and Mr s . Hami l t on. The

news of Dr . Hami l t on' s deat h was r ec ei v ed by Li v -

i ngs t one a f ew y ear s af t er , i n t he hear t of Af r i c a,

wi t h no s mal l emot i on. Thei r nex t meet i ng was i n

t he bet t er l and.

On Augus t nt h he t ook l eav e at t he For ei gn

Of f i c e; on t he nex t day di ned at Wi mbl edon wi t h

Mr . Mur r ay , hi s publ i s her , and s t ar t ed on t he 15t h

t o pl ac e hi s daught er Agnes at a s c hool i n Fr anc e.

" Mr . and Mr s . Os wel l c ame up t o s ay f ar ewel l , " t he

Jour nal r ec or ds . ' ' He of f er s t o go ov er t o Par i s at

Page 110 of 182

any t i me t o br i ng Agnes home, or do any t hi ng t hat

a f at her woul d. Dr . Ki r k and Mr . Wal l er go down

t o Fol k s t one t o t ak e l eav e of us t her e. Thi s i s v er y

ki nd. The Lor d put s i t i nt o t hei r hear t s t o s how

ki ndnes s , and bl es s ed be Hi s Name. "

He l ef t Agnes at her s c hool i n Par i s , and em-

bar k ed at Mar s ei l l es f or Bombay on Augus t 19t h,

r eac hi ng i t on Sept ember nt h.

CHAPTER XI I .

LAKES MOERO^ BANGWEOLO^ AND TANGANYI KA.

1865- 71.

The obj ec t f or whi c h Dr . Li v i ngs t one s et out on

hi s t hi r d and l as t gr eat Af r i c an j our ney i s t hus

st at ed i n t he pr ef ac e t o ' The Zambes i and i t s Tr i bu-

t ar i es : " " Our Gov er nment hav e s uppor t ed t he pr o-

pos al of t he Roy al Geogr aphi c al Soc i et y made by my

f r i end Si r Roder i c k Mur c hi s on, and hav e uni t ed

wi t h t hat body t o ai d me i n anot her at t empt t o open

Af r i c a t o c i v i l i z i ng i nf l uenc es , and a v al ued pr i v at e

f r i end has gi v en a t hous and pounds f or t he s ame

obj ec t . I pr opos e t o go i nl and, nor t h of t he t er r i -

t or y whi c h t he Por t ugues e i n Eur ope c l ai m, and en-

deav or t o c ommenc e t hat s y s t em on t he Eas t whi c h

has been s o emi nent l y s uc c es s f ul on t he Wes t Coas t :

a s y s t em c ombi ni ng t he r epr es s i v e ef f or t s of Her

Maj es t y ' s c r ui s er s wi t h l awf ul t r ade and Chr i s t i an

mi s s i ons — t he mor al and mat er i al r es ul t s of whi c h

hav e been s o gr at i f y i ng. I hope t o as c end t he Ro-

vuma, or s ome ot her r i v er nor t h of Cape Del gado,

and, i n addi t i on t o my ot her wor k , s hal l s t r i v e, by

pas s i ng al ong t he nor t her n end of Lak e Ny as s a, and

r ound t he s out her n end of Lak e Tangany i k a, t o

as c er t ai n t he wat er s hed of t hat par t of Af r i c a. ' *

186

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 187

The f i r s t par t of t he s c heme was hi s own, t he

sec ond he had been ur ged t o under t ak e by t he Geo-

gr aphi c al Soc i et y . The s ums i n ai d c ont r i but ed

by Gov er nment and t he Geogr aphi c al Soc i et y wer e

onl y

500 eac h; but i t was not t hought t hat t he

wor k woul d oc c upy a l ong t i me.

Li v i ngs t one r eac hed Bombay i n Sept ember , 1865,

was c or di al l y wel c omed, and bec ame t he gues t of Si r

Bar t l e Fr er e, t he Gov er nor . * He had c ome t o s el l

t he * ' Lady Ny as s a" and pr epar e f or hi s x ^ f r i c an c am-

pai gn. He had t o ac c ept

2, 600 f or hi s s t eamer , l es s

t han hal f s he had c os t hi m, and l os t t he whol e by t he

f ai l ur e of t he I ndi an bank i n whi c h he depos i t ed i t .

* * The whol e of t he money s he c os t was dedi c at ed t o

t he gr eat c aus e f or whi c h s he was bui l t

— we ar e not

r es pons i bl e f or r es ul t s , " was hi s c omment . He ex -

pl or ed t he c av es at Sal s et t e, i n a par t y under t he

Page 111 of 182

gui dance of Mr . A. Br own, who wr ot e: ' ' Li vi ng-

st one' s al most boyi sh enj oyment of t he whol e t hi ng

i mpr essed me gr eat l y. " He l ect ur ed at Poona and

Bombay, and r oused a deep i nt er est i n mi ssi onar y

. * Fr om a Bombay gent l eman who was hi s f el l ow- t r avel l er t o

I ndi a a l i t t l e anecdot e has casual l y come t o our knowl edge

i l l ust r at i ng t he unobt r usi veness of Li vi ngst one — hi s di sl i ke

t o be made a l i on of . At t he t ahl e- d' hot e of t he hot el i n Mar -

sei l l es, wher e some Bombay mer chant s wer e si t t i ng, t he con

ver sat i on t ur ned on Af r i ca i n connect i on wi t h i vor y — an

ext ensi ve ar t i cl e of t r ade i n Bombay. One f r i end dr opped t he

r emar k, " I wonder wher e t hat ol d chap Li vi ngst one i s now. "

To hi s sur pr i se and di scomf i t ur e, a voi ce r epl i ed, " Her e he i s

They wer e f ast f r i ends al l t hr ough t he voyage t hat f ol l owed

18^ THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

wor k, t hough sHght l y scandal i zi ng hi s cl er i cal br et h-

r en by hi s cost ume. ' ' He dr essed mor e l i ke a post -

capt ai n or admi r al , " one of t hem wr ot e. And agai n :

" At t he communi on on Sunday ( he sat on Dr . Wi l -

son' s r i ght hand) he wor e a bl ue sur t out wi t h Gov -

er nment gi l t but t ons, shepher d t ar t an t r ouser s, and a

gol d band r ound hi s cap. "

By Si r Bar t l e Fr er e' s advi ce he vi si t ed Nassi ck^

t he Gover nment school f or Af r i cans, f r om whi ch he

got ni ne vol unt eer s. He al so accept ed a dr af t of

sepoys f r om t he Mar i ne Bat t al i on. Wi t h t hese he

sai l ed f or Zanzi bar i n Januar y, 1866, i n t he " Thul e, "

a st eamer whi ch he was t o pr esent t o t he Sul t an, wi t h

a l et t er f r om Si r Bar t l e Fr er e, as a pl easur e- yacht .

" For a pl easur e- yacht she i s t he most i ncor r i gi bl e

r ol l er ever known. The whol e 2, 000 mi l es has been

an ever l ast i ng see- saw, shuggy- shoo, enough t o t i r e

a chemi st — t he most pat i ent of al l ani mal s, " he wr ot e

f r om Zanzi bar , wher e he had t o wai t f or t wo mont hs

f or H. M. S. " Pengui n, " whi ch was t o t ake hi m t o

t he Rovuma. The Sul t an was cor di al dur i ng hi s

st ay, and gave hi m a f i r man t o al l hi s subj ect s t r ad-

i ng i n t he i nt er i or , a wel l - meant sanct i on, whi ch i n

t he end, however , wor ked mor e har m t han good.

Zanzi bar l i f e was ver y monot onous — " I t i s t he

ol d, ol d way of l i vi ng — eat i ng, dr i nki ng, sl eepi ng;

sl eepi ng, dr i nki ng, eat i ng. Get t i ng f at ; sl avi ng-

dhows com. i ng and sl avi ng- dhows goi ng away; bad

smel l s ; and ki ndl y l ooks f r om Engl i sh f ol ks t o each

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 189

Ot her . " The si ght of sl aves i n t he Zanzi bar mar ket ,

and t he r ecogni t i on of some who had been br ought

f r om Nyassa, di d not enhven hi s vi si t , t hough i t un-

doubt edl y conf i r med hi s pur pose and qui ckened hi s

ef f or t s t o ai m anot her bl ow at t he accur sed t r ade.

Al ways t hi nki ng of what woul d benef i t Af r i ca, he

v/ r i t es t o Si r Thomas Macl ear ur gi ng ver y st r ongl y

t he st ar t i ng of a l i ne of st eamer s bet ween t he Cape,

Page 112 of 182

Zanzi bar and Bombay : " I t w^ oul d be a most pr of i t a-

bl e one, and woul d do gr eat good, besi des, i n eat i ng

out t he t r ade i n sl aves. "

The ' Tengui n" came at l ast t o pi ck hi m up, and

l anded hi m and hi s company on t he Rovuma t owar d

t he end of Mar ch. They consi st ed of t hi r t een sepoys,

t en Johanna men, ni ne Nassi ck boys, and t wo Shu-

panga and t wo Wai yau men, of whom Susi had been

a wood- cut t er on t he ' Ti oneer , " and Chumah, one of

t he sl aves r escued i n 1861. I t was wel l t hat t hese

t wo wer e amongst t hem, as t he r est pr oved qui t e

unf i t f or t he v/ or k. He had no Engl i shman wi t h

hi m, but st ar t ed f or t he l ong t r amp i n hi gh spi r i t s.

* * The mer e ani mal pl easur e of t r avel l i ng i n a wi l d

unexpl or ed count r y i ? ver y gr eat . . . t he body

soon becomes wel l kni t , t he muscl es gr ow as har d as

boar d; t he l i mbs seem t o have no f at , and t her e i s

no dyspepsi a. " So t he Jour nal r uns; and he i s al so

f ul l of i nt er est as t o how^ t he camel s, t ame buf f al oes,

mul es, and donkeys, wdi i ch he had br ought f r om

I ndi a at a l ar ge cost , woul d r esi st t he t set se- f l y and

190 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

st and t he Af r i can cl i mat e. The poodl e Chi t anpe

compl et es hi s l i ve st ock, a most engagi ng beast , t hor -

oughl y al i ve t o t he i mpor t ance of t he expedi t i on and

hi s own dut y, r unni ng up and down t he l i ne of

mar ch and chasi ng away t he par i ah dogs who dar ed

t o appr oach, and keepi ng hi s mast er ' s t ent j eal ousl y

at ni ght . Poor f ai t hf ul Chi t anpe, af t er t he Af r i can

sun had bur nt hi s coat a br own r ed, was dr owned

i n cr ossi ng an over f l owed r i ver i n t he f ol l owi ng Jan-

uar y, 1867 — af t er a mi l e' s wadi ng hi s mast er i n-

qui r ed f or hi m and he was gone. He swam as l ong

as he coul d, and t hen t he men " supposed he must

have j ust sunk. " No smal l addi t i on t o Li vi ngst one' s

t r i al s, whi ch wer e t hi ck enough by t hat t i me. The

sepoys pr oved compl et e f ai l ur es, sul ky, and br ut al t o

t he ani mal s, and onl y abl e t o mar ch f i ve mi l es a day.

The Johanna men wer e l i t t l e bet t er , and t hi eves —

even t he Nassi ck boys wer e t r oubl esome. Wi t h such

a band t he mar ch dr agged heavi l y on, t i l l i n Jul y,

i n di sgust at t hei r l azi ness and cr uel t y t o t he ani mal s,

he sent t he sepoys back t o t he coast . They had now

r eached a spl endi d di st r i ct , t hr ee t housand f our hun-

dr ed and f or t y f eet above t he sea, and t he wat er shed

f r om whi ch t he Rovuma r an down t o t he coast , and

t he smal l er st r eams west war d t o Lake Nyassa. * As

* Thi s quest i on of t he wat er shed had f asci nat ed hi s mi nd,

f or he had a st r ong i mpr essi on t hat t he r eal sour ces of t he

Ni l e wer e f ar hi gher t han any pr evi ous t r avel l er had supposed

—f ar hi gher t han Lake Vi ct or i a Nyanza, and t hat i t woul d be

a ser vi ce t o r el i gi on as wel l ^ ^ ^ sci ence t o di scover t he f ot m-

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 191

good a si t e f or a set t l ement t hi s pl at eau, Li vi ngst one

Page 113 of 182

t hought , as Magomer o, but near l y depopul at ed by

t he sl ave- t r ade. He descended west war d, r eachi ng

Lake Nyassa on August 8t h, and bat hi ng i n i t s

br i ght wat er s f el t agai n " qui t e exhi l ar at ed. " " Al l

t he Ar abs f l y me, " he not es ; and bei ng t hus unabl e

t o cr oss t he l ake, as t hey owned al l t he boat s, he

mar ched r ound t he sout her n end. Her e, about t he

out f l ow of t he Shi r e, he f ound mat t er s r at her wor se

t han he had l ef t t hem t wo year s bef or e, and r emon-

st r at ed wi t h some of t he chi ef s on t he r eckl ess i nt er -

t r i bal r ai ds, f ost er ed by t he Ar abs, whi ch wer e r ui n-

i ng t hei r count r y.

Now, i n Sept ember , t he Johanna men, headed by

Musa, an ol d sai l or on t he " Lady Nyassa, " scar ed

by t he Ar abs' l yi ng account of t he danger s ahead,

deser t ed and r et ur ned t o Zanzi bar . Ther e t hey

t ai ns of t he st r eam on whose bosom, i n t he dawn of Hebr ew

hi st or y, Moses had f l oat ed i n hi s ar k of bul r ushes. A st r ong

i mpr essi on l ur ked i n hi s mi nd t hat i f he shoul d onl y sol ve

t hat ol d pr obl em he woul d acqui r e such i nf l uence t hat new

f wei ght woul d be gi ven t o hi s pl eadi ngs f or Af r i ca. But what -

ever mi ght be hi s vi ews or ai ms, i t was or dai ned t hat i n t he

wander i ngs of hi s l ast year s he shoul d br i ng wi t hi n t he

sympat hi es of t he Chr i st i an wor l d many a poor t r i be ot her wi se

unknown ; t hat he shoul d wi t ness si ght s, sur passi ng al l he had

ever seen bef or e of t he i nhumani t y and hor r or s of t he sl ave-

t r af f i c — si ght s t hat har r owed hi s i nmost soul ; and t hat when hi s

f i nal appeal t o hi s count r ymen on behal f of i t s vi ct i ms came,

not f r om hi s l i vi ng voi ce but f r om hi s t omb, i t shoul d gat her

f r om a t housand t ouchi ng associ at i ons a t hr i l l i ng power t hat

woul d r ouse t he wor l d, and f i xi al l y r oot out t he accur sed t hi ng.

192 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

spr ead a ci r cumst ant i al st or y of Li vi ngst one' s deat h,

whi ch was cr edi t ed and f or war ded t o Engl and.

Young and Hor ace V^ al l er , who had known Musa

f or a l i ar on t he Shi r e, r ef used t o bel i eve, and wer e

suppor t ed by Si r R. Mur chi son. At hi s i nst ance t he

Geogr aphi cal Soci et y sent out a sear ch- expedi t i on

under Young. I n ei ght mont hs Young r et ur ned

f r om t he Shi r e and Lake Nyassa wi t h t he news t hat

t he Doct or had passed on t owar d t he nor t hwest .

Young had i n t hat shor t t i me car r i ed t he " Sear ch"

i n pi eces past t he Mur chi son Cat ar act s and l aunched

her on Lake Nyassa, by t he spl endi d hel p of t he

Makol ol o whom Li vi ngst one had pl ant ed on t he

Shi r e banks, and who wer e now mast er s i n t he di s-

t r i ct

Meant i me Li vi ngst one was f or ci ng hi s way on

sl owl y f ar beyond t o t he nor t hwest . The count r y

pr oved mi ser abl y poor , wi t h bal ef ul t r aces of t he

Ar abs ever ywher e. The vi l l ages wer e depopul at ed

and t he peopl e st ar vi ng. He had now t o hi r e car -

r i er s, havi ng so f ew men l ef t , and char act er i st i cal l y

al l owed t hem t o over char ge hi m, not i ng i n hi s Jour - (

nal , " I s not t hi s what i s meant by ' Bl essed i s he t hat ,

consi der et h t he poor and needy' ? These poor have

much good i n t hem. " As he pushed on i ndomi t abl y

Page 114 of 182

t owar d Lake Tanganyi ka he was r educed t o a di et of

Af r i can mai ze wi t h goat ' s mi l k. For some days i n

December he was t oo i l l t o mar ch. On Chr i st mas

Day hi s goat s wer e st ol en, and he had no mor e mi l k

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA, 193

— hi s one l uxur y. " Took my bel t up t hr ee hol es t o

r el i eve hunger / ' i s t he not e i n t he Jour nal . But

wor se was i n st or e i n t he ear l y new year . Januar y

l ^ t h, — " Poor poodl e Chi t anpe dr owned. We had t o

cr oss a mar sh a mi l e wi de and wai st - deep. I went

over f i r st , and f or got t o gi ve di r ect i ons about t he

dog. Al l wer e t oo much engaged i n keepi ng t hei r

bal ance t o not i ce t hat he swam among t hem t i l l he

di ed. " On Januar y 20, 1867, hi s medi ci ne- chest was

st ol en. " Fel t as i f I had r ecei ved my deat h sen-

t ence. " * Febr uar y i st . — " We got a cow yest er day.

I am t o get mi l k t o- mor r ow. " Febr uar y l yt h. —

" Too i l l wi t h r heumat i c f ever t o have ser vi ce. The

f i r st at t ack I have ever had wi t h no medi ci ne. The

Lor d heal et h Hi s peopl e. " Mar ch l ot h. — " 111 of

f ever st i l l . Can scar cel y keep up, t hough f or mer l y

al ways f i r st i n t he l i ne. I have si ngi ng i n my ear s,

and can scar cel y hear t he t i ck of t he chr onomet er s. "

I n Apr i l he r eached t he shor es of Lake Li emba,

whi ch pr oved t o be t he sout her n end of Lake Tan-

ganyi ka; t he count r y was l ovel y and peacef ul , but ,

hear i ng of war i n f r ont , he t ur ned sout h. Hi s obj ect

was t o r each Lake Moer o, whi ch he hear d of i n t hi s

di st r i ct , and whi ch mi ght pr ove t he sol ut i on of hi s

* The l oss of t he medi ci ne- box was pr obabl y t he begi nni ng of

t he end; hi s syst em l ost t he wonder f ul power of r ecover y

whi ch i t had hi t her t o shown ; and ot her ai l ment s — i n t he l ungs,

t he f eet , and t he bowel s, t hat mi ght have been kept under i n

a mor e vi gor ous st at e of gener al heal t h, began her eaf t er t o

pr evai l agai nst hi m.

194 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

doubt s as t o t he wat er shed of t he Ni l e and Congo.

I n June he came on t he Ubungu, " a. t r i be of gent l e-

men, uni ver sal l y pol i t e, gover ned t hey ar e and ver y

wel l , " but how exact l y he coul d not sat i sf y hi msel f ;

cer t ai nl y not by f ear . I n August came t hr ee mont hs'

del ay t hr ough i l l ness and hel pl essness. At l ast , i n

November , an Ar ab, Mohamed Moghar i b, ar r i ved,

a sl ave- t r ader , but a f avor abl e speci men of t he cl ass,

who acknowl edged t he Sul t an' s f i r man and of f er ed

escor t , whi ch Li vi ngst one accept ed. Mohamed' s

f i r st gi f t was a meal of ver mi cel l i , oi l , and honey.

" I had not t ast ed sugar and honey f or t wo year s, ' *

t he Jour nal not es. On November 8, 1867, t hey

r eached Lake Moer o.

Her e he spent some mont hs expl or i ng, when not

t oo i l l , and f ound Lake Moer o. f or t y mi l es wi de. To

t he sout h, however , he hear s of anot her l ake, Bang-

weol o, even l ar ger . Thi s must be expl or ed. I n

Page 115 of 182

vai n Mohamed Boghar i b r emonst r at ed, and hi s men,

al l but f i ve, r ef used t o go on wi t h hi m. * Though

* They had been consi der abl y demor al i zed by cont act wi t h

t he Ar ab t r ader and hi s sl ave- gang. Dr . Li vi ngst one t ook

t hi s r ebel l i on wi t h wonder f ul pl aci di t y, f or i n hi s own mi nd he

coul d not gr eat l y bl ame t hem. I t was no wonder t hey wer e

t i r ed of t he ever l ast i ng t r ampi ng, f or he was si ck of i t hi m-

sel f . He r eaped t he f r ui t of hi s mi l dness by t he men comi ng

back t o hi m, on hi s r et ur n f r om t he l ake, and of f er i ng t hei r

ser vi ces. I t cannot be sai d of hi m t hat he was not di sposed

t o make any al l owance f or human weakness. When r ecor di ng

a f aul t , and how he deal t wi t h i t , he of t en adds, " consci ous -

ness of my own def ect s makes me l eni ent , " * ' I al so have my

weaknesses. "

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 195

wi t hout l et t er s f or t wo year s, and l ongi ng t o t ur n

nor t hwar d t o Uj i j i on Lake Tanganyi ka, wher e he

mi ght get l et t er s and suppl i es, he wi l l st i l l go f or -

war d. And so he t r udges on, i n const ant pai n and

t r oubl e, t o t he sout h. On June 25, 1868, he comes

acr oss a sol i t ar y gr ave i n a f or est cl ear i ng, over

whi ch he muses : " I have not hi ng t o do but t o wai t

t i l l He who i s over al l deci des w^ her e I have t o l ay me

down and di e. Poor Mar y l i es on Shupanga br ae,

* and beeks f oment t he sun. ' " On Jul y i 8t h he was

r ewar ded f or hi s t oi l by t he si ght of Lake Bang-

weol o, " a spl endi d pi ece of wat er . " August 2gt h. —

^' Thanks f or what I have di scover ed. Ther e i s st i l l

much t o do, and i f l i f e and pr ot ect i on be gr ant ed, I

shal l make a compl et e t hi ng of i t . " So t he ol d her o

wr i t es, and st ar t s agai n on hi s nor t her n t r amp t o

make as compl et e a t hi ng of i t as he can. Agai n he

f al l s i n wi t h t he Ar ab t r ader s, and mar ches wi t h

t hem pai nf ul l y, sor e i n soul as wel l as body.

I n t he nei ghbor hood of Lake Moer o t hey r each

t he t own of Casembe, a power f ul and f r i endl y chi ef ,

who was t hr eat ened by a mar audi ng ar my of Mazi t u

f r om t he sout h. The Ar abs si ded wi t h t he i nvader s,

and wer e dr i ven nor t h, Li vi ngst one f ol l owi ng wi t h

hi s f i ve f ai t hf ul men.

I n November t hey once mor e came acr oss Mo-

hamed Boghar i b, on hi s way t o Uj i j i , Li vi ngst one' s

r unaways wi t h hi m. They expr ess peni t ence and he

t akes t hem back, wi t h t he r emar k, ' T have f aul t s

196 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

mysel f . " I n t he l ast days of November Mohamed' s

car avan was at t acked by host i l e nat i ves. Li vi ng-

st one sat at hi s t ent - door ar med, t o def end hi s bag-

gage i f necessar y, and not i ng t he cour age of t he

at t acki ng par t y. " V. C. men t r ul y many of t hem, "

he wr i t es, as he sees t hem r ush t o car r y of f t hei r

wounded under heavy f i r e. New Year ' s Day, 1869,

f i nds hi m st i l l on hi s way t o Uj i j i , t oo i l l t o mar ch,

Page 116 of 182

and car r i ed i n a r ude l i t t er . " ^ I n Febr uar y he r eaches

t he west er n shor e of Lake Tanganyi ka, and cr osses

t o Uj i j i on t he 14t h, t o f i nd i t a den of t hi eves, al l

hi s suppl i es pl under ed, and onl y t wo ol d l et t er s. He

had st i l l medi ci nes and st or es at Unyanyembe, t hi r -

* New Year ' s Day, 1869, f ound Li vi ngst one l abor i ng under

a wor se at t ack of i l l ness t han any he had ever had bef or e.

For t en weeks t o come hi s si t uat i on was as pai nf ul as can be

concei ved. A cont i nual cough, ni ght and day, t he most di s -

t r essi ng v\ ' eakness, i nabi l i t y t o wal k, yet t he necessi t y of mov -

i ng on, or r at her of bei ng moved on, i n a ki nd of l i t t er ar -

r anged by Mohamed Boghar i b — wher e, wi t h hi s f ace poor l y

pr ot ect ed f r om t he sun, he was j ol t ed up and down and

si deways, wi t hout medi ci ne or f ood f or an i nval i d — made t he

si t uat i on suf f i ci ent l y t r yi ng. Hi s pr ayer was t hat he mi ght

hol d out t o Uj i j i , wher e he expect ed t o f i nd medi ci nes and

st or es, wi t h t he r est and shel t er so necessar y i n hi s ci r cum-

st ances. So i l l was he, t hat he l ost count of t he days of t he

week and t he mont h. ' T saw mysel f l yi ng dead i n t he way

t o Uj i j i , and al l t he l et t er s I expect ed t her e — usel ess. When I

t hi nk of my chi l dr en, t he l i nes r i ng t hr ough my head per -

pet ual l y :

" * I shal l l ook i nt o your f aces,

And l i st en t o what you say;

And be of t en ver y near you

When you t hi nk I ' m f ar away. * "

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGAN i ^ I KA. 197

t een days' di st ance, but cannot send f oi t hem as war

i s r agi ng. So, wr i t i ng f or f r esh suppl i es t o Dr .

Ki r k at Zanzi bar , he once mor e t ur ned nor t hwar d t o

t he Manyuema count r y. Hi s obj ect was t o t r ack

down t he Lual aba, i f possi bl e, t o a poi nt whi ch woul d

deci de whet her i t i s t he west er n ar m of t he Ni l e or

t he east er n head- wat er of t he Congo. I n Jul y he i s

agai n wel l enough t o st ar t , and r eaches Bambar r e,

t he capi t al of t he Manyuema count r y, on Oct ober

25t h.

" I n t hi s j our ney, " t he Jour nal now sums up, " I

have endeavor ed t o f ol l ow wi t h unswer vi ng f i del i t y

t he l i ne of dut y. My cour se has been an even one,

swer vi ng nei t her t o t he r i ght nor l ef t , t hough my

r out e has been t or t uous enough. Al l t he har dshi p,

hunger , and t oi l wer e met wi t h t he f ul l convi ct i on

t hat I was r i ght i n per sever i ng t o make a compl et e

wor k of t he expl or at i on of t he sour ces of t he Ni l e.

I had a st r ong pr esent i ment dur i ng t he f i r st t hr ee

year s t hat I shoul d not l i ve t hr ough t he ent er pr i se;

but i t weakened as I came near t o t he end of t he

j our ney, and an eager desi r e t o di scover any evi dence

of t he gr eat Moses havi ng vi si t ed t hese par t s bound

me — spel l - bound me, I may say. I have t o go down

t he Cent r al Lual aba or Webb' s Lake Ri ver , t hen up

t he West er n or Young' s Lake Ri ver t o Kat anga

head- wat er s, and t hen r et i r e — I pr ay t hat i t may be

t o my nat i ve home. . . . I r ecei ved i nf or ma-

Page 117 of 182

t i on of Mr . Young' s sear ch- t r i p up t he Shi r e and

198 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Nyassa onl y i n Febr uar y, 1870, and now t ake t he

f i r st oppor t uni t y of of f er i ng hear t y t hanks i n a de-

spat ch t o H. M. Gover nment and al l concer ned i n

ki ndl y i nqui r i ng as t o my f at e. " *

At Bambar r e he i s del ayed, wai t i ng f or men, f or

mor e t han t hr ee mont hs, not i ng i n hi s enf or ced l ei s -

ur e t he habi t s of bi r ds and beast s, and manner s and

cust oms of t he peopl e, wi t h al l par t i cul ar s he can

l ear n as t o t he pr oduct s and geogr aphy of t he coun-

t r y. Her e agai n t he bal ef ul i nf l uence of t he Ar ab

t r ader s and t hei r open r ai ds f or sl aves wer e dai l y be-

f or e hi m. " The st r angest di sease I have seen i n t hi s

count r y, " he wr i t es, " seems r eal l y t o be br oken-

hear t edness, as i t at t acks onl y t he f r ee who ar e cap-

t ur ed, and never sl aves ; i t seems t o be r eal l y br oken-

hear t edness of whi ch t hey di e. Even chi l dr en who

showed wonder f ul endur ance i n keepi ng up wi t h

* 0n t he 2i st of Sept ember he ar r i ved at Bambar r e, i n Man-

yuema, t he vi l l age of t he Chi ef Moenekuss. He f ound t he

peopl e i n a st at e of gr eat i sol at i on f r om t he r est of t he wor l d,

wi t h not hi ng t o t r ust t o but char ms and i dol s — bot h bei ng bi t s

of wood. He made t he acquai nt ance of t he soko or gor i l l a,

not a ver y soci al ani mal , f or i t al ways t r i es t o bi t e of f t he

ends of i t s capt or ' s f i nger s and t oes. Nei t her i s i t par t i cu-

l ar l y i nt el l ect ual , f or i t s nest shows no mor e cont r i vance t han

t hat of a cushat dove. The cur i osi t y of t he peopl e was ver y

gr eat , and somet i mes i t t ook an i nt er est i ng di r ect i on. " Do

peopl e di e wi t h you?" asked t wo i nt el l i gent young men.

" Have you no char m agai nst deat h? Wher e do peopl e go

af t er deat h?" Li vi ngst one spoke t o t hem of t he gr eat Fat her ,

and of t hei r pr ayer s t o Hi m who hear s t he cr y of hi s chi l dr en^ "

mi t he^ t hought t hj s t o be nat wr al .

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 199

t he chai ned gangs woul d somet i mes hear ' t he sound

of danci ng and t he mer r y t i nkl e of dr ums i n passi ng

near a vi l l age; ' t hen t he memor y of home and happy

days pr oved t oo much f or t hem, t hey cr i ed and

sobbed, t he br oken hear t came on, and t hey r api dl y

sank. "

At l ast , on Januar y 28, 1871, a l ar ge car avan

under Hassani and Abed, t wo Ar abs he had known

at Uj i j i , ar r i ved, and on Febr uar y 4t h hi s t en men,

who, however , br ought onl y one l et t er , f or t y bei ng

l ost . Thi s f i r st exper i ence was omi nous. They r e-

f used t o go nor t h, and on t he nt h st r uck f or hi gher

w^ ages. ' ' The t en men, " t he Jour nal r uns, " ar e al l

sl aves of t he Bani ans, who ar e Br i t i sh subj ect s, and

t hey come wi t h a l i e i n t hei r mout h. They wi l l not

hel p me, and swear t he Consul t ol d t hem not t o go

f or war d, but t o f or ce me back. They swor e so pos -

i t i vel y t hat I act ual l y l ooked agai n at Dr . Ki r k' s

Page 118 of 182

l et t er t o see i f hi s or der s had been r i ght l y under st ood

by me. But f or f ear of pi st ol shot t hey woul d gai n

t hei r own and t hei r Bani an mast er s' end — t o baf f l e

me compl et el y. They demand an advance of $1 t o

$6 a mont h, t hough t hi s i s doubl e f r eemen' s pay

at Zanzi bar . "

However , he had t hem i n or der enough by Febr u-

ar y 1 6t h t o j ust i f y a st ar t . And now hi s ol d men —

t he deser t er s — who had been hangi ng r ound t he

t r ader ' s camp, waked up. " They came af t er me wi t h

i ni mi t abl e ef f r ont er y, bel i evi ng t hat t hough I saj cj

200 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

I woul d not t ake t hem, t hey wer e so val uabl e I was

onl y sayi ng what I knew t o be f al se. " He woul d

not t ake a man back t hi s t i me, t hough pr obabl y he

woul d have been bet t er ser ved had he done so.

On Febr uar y 25t h t hey came on t he Lual aba f l ow-

i ng west - sout hwest , causi ng hi m t o wr i t e, " I have

t o suspend my j udgment , so as t o f i nd i t af t er al l per -

haps t he Congo. " As i ndeed i t has pr oved t o be,

t hough he di d not l i ve t o know i t .

" Mar ch i st . — The Ar abs asked me t o t ake seven

of t hei r peopl e who know t he new way, goi ng t o

buy bi r amba. " To t hi s he consent ed, and advanced

t hr ough a l ovel y count r y wi t h f r equent vi l l ages

" st andi ng on sl opes, " and as yet havi ng no di r ect

exper i ence of t he Ar abs or t he sl ave- t r ade. ' T hear

t he Manyuema t el l i ng each ot her t hat I am ' t he

Good One. ' I have no sl aves, and I owe t he good

name t o t he r epor t of t he Zanzi bar sl aves, who ar e

anyt hi ng but good t hemsel ves. I have seen sl aves

of t hese seven Ar abs sl ap t he cheeks of gr own men

who of f er ed f ood f or sal e. I t was done i n sheer

want onness, t i l l I t hr eat ened t o t hr ash t hem i f I

saw i t agai n. "

" Mar ch ^ f h. — We came t o some vi l l ages amongst

beaut i f ul t r ee- cover ed hi l l s cal l ed Basi l ange, or Mo-

basi l ange. They ar e ver y pr et t y st andi ng on sl opes.

The mai n st r eet l i es gener al l y east and west , t o

al l ow t he br i ght sun t o st r eam hi s cl ear hot r ays

f r om one end t o t he ot her , and l i ck up qui ckl y t he

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 201

moi st ur e f r om t he f r equent shower s whi ch i s not

dr awn of f by t he sl opes. A Ht t l e ver anda i s of t en

made i n f r ont of t he door s, wher e t he f ami l y gat her s

r ound a f i r e, and whi l e enj oyi ng t he heat needed

i n t he col d whi ch al ways accompani es t he f i r st

dar t i ng of t he sun' s r ays acr oss t he at mospher e,

i nhal e t he del i ci ous ai r and t al k over t hei r l i t t l e

domest i c af f ai r s. The var i ous- shaped l eaves of t he

f or est al l r ound t hei r vi l l age ar e spangl ed wi t h

myr i ads of dewdr ops. The cocks cr ow vi gor ousl y,

Page 119 of 182

and st r ut and ogl e ; t he ki ds gambol and l eap on t hei r

dams qui et l y chewi ng t he cud. Ot her goat s make-

bel i eve f i ght i ng. Thr i f t y wi ves of t en bake t hei r new

cl ay pot s i n a f i r e made by l i ght i ng a heap of gr ass

r oot s; t hey ext r act sal t f r om t he ashes, and so t wo

bi r ds ar e ki l l ed wi t h one st one. The beaut y of t hi s

peacef ul mor ni ng scene i s i ndescr i babl e. I nf ancy

gi l ds t he f ai r y pi ct ur e wi t h i t s own l i nes, and i t i s

pr obabl y never f or got t en, f or t he young, t aken up

f r om sl aver s and t r eat ed wi t h al l phi l ant hr opi c mi s-

si onar y car e and ki ndness, st i l l r ever t t o t he per i od

of i nf ancy as t he f i nest and f ai r est t hey have known.

They woul d go back t o f r eedom and enj oyment as

f ast as woul d our own sons of t he soi l , and be

heedl ess of t he char ms of har d wor k and no pl ay,

whi ch we t hi nk so much bet t er f or t hem i f not

f or us. ' '

But t he oasi s i s sadl y l i mi t ed. On t he next page

comes, ' Tn some cases we f i nd t he vi l l ages al l de-

S02 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

ser t ed ; t he peopl e had f l ed at our appr oach i n dr ead

of t he r epet i t i on of t he out r ages of Ar ab sl aves. "

The Ar abs pr oved a bad bar gai n. They knew t he

count r y, but t hei r sl aves wer e commi t t i ng at r oci t i es

al ong t he l i ne whi ch t hei r mast er s vai nl y t r i ed t o

conceal f r om hi m, and whi ch he f ound hi msel f pow-

er l ess t o pr event .

" Mar ch 26t h. — Met a par t y of t r ader s wi t h

ei ght y- t wo capt i ves af t er t en days' f i ght i ng. We

shal l be saf e onl y when past al l t hi s bl oodshed and

mur der . I am hear t sor e and si ck of human bl ood. "

" Mar ch 2St h. — The Bani an sl aves ar e agai n t r y-

i ng compul si on. I t i s excessi vel y t r yi ng, and so

many di f f i cul t i es have been put i n my way I doubt

whet her t he Di vi ne f avor i s on my si de. "

However , on Mar ch 29t h he r eaches Nyangwe,

t he chi ef t own of t he di st r i ct , i n t he mi dst of a dense

popul at i on, and t he poi nt wher e he hoped t o cr oss

t o t he l ef t bank of t he Lual aba, whi ch f l ows past t he

t own. Her e he f ound Abed and Hassani , t wo Ar ab

t r ader s, wi t h a l ar ge sl ave- f ol l owi ng. He had met

t hem bef or e, and now : ' ' Abed sai d my wor ds agai nst

bl ood- sheddi ng had st uck i nt o hi m, and he had gi ven

' or der s t o hi s peopl e t o gi ve pr esent s t o chi ef s, but

never t o f i ght unl ess act ual l y at t acked. "

" Mar ch ^ i st . — I went down t o t ake a good l ook

at t he Lual aba her e. I t i s nar r ower t han i t i s hi gher

up, but st i l l a mi ght y r i ver , at l east 3, 000 yar ds

br oad and al ways deep. I t can never be waded at

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 203

Page 120 of 182

any poi nt , or at any t i me of t he year . I t has many

l ar ge i sl ands, and at t hese i t i s about 2, 000 yar ds,

or one mi l e. The banks ar e st eep and dar k; t her e i s

day and a yel l ow- cl ay schi st i n t hei r st r uct ur e. The

cur r ent i s about t wo mi l es an hour . "

^' Apr i l 2i d. — The r i ver i s sai d t o over f l ow al l i t s

banks annual l y, as t he Ni l e does f ar t her down. I

sounded acr oss yest er day, and near t he bank i t i s 9

f eet , t he r est 15 f eet , and one cast i n t he mi ddl e was

20 f eet , bet ween t he i sl ands 12 f eet , and 9 agai n

i nshor e. I t i s a mi ght y r i ver t r ul y. . . . I

t r i ed t o secur e a l ongi t ude by f i xi ng a wei ght on t he

key of t he wat ch, and so hel pi ng i t on. I wi l l t r y

t hi s i n a qui et pl ace t o- mor r ow. The peopl e al l f ear

us, and t hey have good r eason. "

He began at once t o f r equent t he mar ket as t he

best way of i nspi r i ng conf i dence. On t he f i r st occa-

si on he not es: ' ' To- day t he mar ket cont ai ned over

1, 000 peopl e, car r yi ng ear t hen pot s and cassava

gr ass cl ot h, f i shes and f owl s; t hey wer e al ar med at

my comi ng among t hem, and wer e r eady t o f l y;

many st ood af ar of f i n suspi ci on. " The var i ous

phases of hi s l ong st r uggl e wi t h hi s sl aves and t hei r

Ar ab abet t or s, of hi s at t empt s t o wi n t he conf i dence

of t he Manyuema, t o get canoes and so f i ni sh hi s

wor k, can onl y be i ndi cat ed by a f ew ext r act s f r om

t he Jour nal s.

' ' Apr i l St h. — The Uj i j i an sl aver y i s an accur sed

syst em ; but i t must be admi t t ed t hat t he Manyuema

204 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t oo have f aul t s, t he r esul t of i gnor ance of ot her peo-

pl e; t hei r i sol at i on has made t hem as unconsci ous of

danger i n deal i ng wi t h t he cr uel st r anger as l i t t l e

dogs i n t he pr esence of l i ons. "

" Apr i l i St h. — Chi t oka, or mar ket t o- day. I

count ed upwar d of 700 passi ng my door . Wi t h

mar ket - w^ omen i t seems t o be a pl easur e of l i f e t o

haggl e and j oke, or l augh and cheat . Many come

eager l y, and r et i r e wi t h car ewor n f aces; many ar e

beaut i f ul and many ol d. "

" Apr i l 12t h. — My new house i s f i ni shed; a gr eat

comf or t , f or t he ot her was f oul and f ul l of ver mi n. "

" Apr i l i 6t h. — Kahembe ( a chi ef f r om l ef t bank)

came over and pr omi ses t o br i ng a canoe. They al l

t hi nk t hat my buyi ng a canoe means car r yi ng war

t o t he l ef t bank, and now my Bani an sl aves encour -

age t he i dea. ' He does not wi sh sl aves or i vor y/

t hey say, ' but a canoe i n or der t o ki l l Manyuema. '

Need i t be wonder ed at t hat peopl e who had never

seen a whi t e man t i l l I popped down among t hem

bel i eve t he sl ander ?"

" Apr i l i gt h. — Wear y wai t i ng, but Abed pr omi ses

t o j oi n and t r ade al ong wi t h me. Thi s wi l l r ender

Page 121 of 182

our par t y st r onger , and he wi l l not shoot peopl e i n

my company. "

" May 3( ^ . — Thi s t r i be use l ar ge and ver y l ong

spear s ver y exper t l y i n t he l ong gr ass and f or est of

t hei r coi mt r y, and ar e t er r i bl e f el l ows among t hem-

sel ves, and when t hey become acquai nt ed wi t h f i r e-

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 205

ar ms wi l l be t er r i bl e t o t he st r anger s who now mur -

der t hem. The Manyuema say t r ul y, " I f i t wer e not

f or your guns, not one of you woul d ever r et ur n t o

your count r y/ My sl aves have mut i ni ed t hr ee t i mes

her e. "

" May i 6f h. — At l east 3, 000 peopl e at mar ket t o-

day, and my goi ng among t hem has t aken away t he

f ear engender ed by t he sl ander s of sl aves and t r ad-

er s, f or al l ar e pl eased t o t el l me t he names of f i shes

and ot her t hi ngs.

" I t was pl easant t o be among t hem compar ed t o

bei ng wi t h t he sl aves, who ar e al l eager t o go back

t o Zanzi bar . I see no hope of get t i ng on wi t h t hem.

Abed hear d t hem pl ot t i ng my dest r uct i on. I f f or ced

t o go on t hey woul d wat ch t i l l t he f i r st di f f i cul t y

ar ose wi t h t he Manyuema, t hen f i r e of f t hei r guns,

r un away, and as I coul d not r un as f ast as t hey,

l eave me t o per i sh. ' Abed over hear d t hem t al ki ng

l oudl y, and advi sed me st r ongl y not t o t r ust mysel f

t o t hem any mor e, as t hey woul d be sur e t o cause my

deat h. He has al l al ong been my si ncer e f r i end. "

" May i Sf h. — I was on t he poi nt of di sar mi ng my

sl aves and dr i vi ng t hem away when t hey r el ent ed,

and pr of essed t o be wi l l i ng t o go anywher e; so,

bei ng eager t o f i ni sh my geogr aphi cal wor k, I sai d I

woul d r un t he r i sk of t hei r deser t i on. I cannot st at e

how much I was wor r i ed by t hese wr et ched sl aves,

who di d much t o annoy me wi t h t he sympat hy of al l

t he sl aver y cr ew. "

206 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

' ' June 14t h. — ' Hassani ' ( t he most bi got ed of t he

Mosl em t r ader s) got ni ne canoes and put si xt y- f i ve

per sons i n t hr ee. I cannot get one. "

Now he hear s news whi ch he hopes wi l l sol ve hi s

di f i f i cul t i es.

^' Ji i ne 20t h. — Dugumbe ar r i ves wi t h l ar ge par t y.

Among t he f i r st wor ds Dugumbe sai d t o me wer e,

* Why, your own sl aves ar e your gr eat est enemi es!

I wi l l buy you a canoe, but t he Bani an sl aves' sl an-

der s have put al l t hem agai nst you. ' I knew t hat t hi s

was t r ue, and t hat t hey ar e consci ous of havi ng t he

sympat hy of t he Uj i j i an t r ader s, who hat e t o have

me her e. "

Page 122 of 182

Thi s Dugumbe was t he best of t he Ar ab t r ader s,

and an ol d acquai nt ance.

' ' Jul y ^ t h. — I of f er Dugumbe $2, 000, or

400, f or

t en men t o r epl ac e my Bani an s l av es , and enabl e me

t o go up t he Lomame t o Kat anga and t he under -

gr ound dwel l i ngs , t hen r et ur n and go up by Tan-

gany i k a t o Uj i j i , and I added I woul d gi v e al l t he

goods I had at Uj i j i bes i des . He t ook a f ew day s

t o c ons ul t hi s as s oc i at es . "

" 7w/ y y t h.

— I was annoy ed by a woman f r equent l y

beat i ng a s l av e near my hous e, but on my r epr ov i ng

her s he c ame and apol ogi z ed. I t ol d her t o s peak

sof t l y t o her s l av e, as s he was now t he onl y mot her

t he gi r l had. The s l av e c ame f r om Lomame, and

was ev i dent l y a l ady i n her own c ount r y . "

Hi s opi ni on of t he Many uema as t he f i nes t t r i be

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 207

he had met wi t h af t er t he Mak ol ol o, gr ew wi t h ac -

quai nt anc e. He not es :

' ' Many of t he men hav e as f i nel y f or med heads as

coul d be f ound i n London. We Engl i s h, i f nak ed,

woul d mak e but poor f i gur es bes i de t he s t r appi ng

f or ms and f i nel y s haped l i mbs of t he Many uema men

and women. Thei r c anni bal i s m i s doubt f ul , but

my obs er v at i ons r ai s e gr av e s us pi c i ons . A Sc ot c h

j ur y woul d s ay ' Not pr ov en. ' The women ar e not

gui l t y .

' The Many uema ar e unt r ut hf ul , but v er y hones t .

We nev er l os e an ar t i c l e by t hem. Fowl s and goat s

ar e unt ouc hed, and i f we l os e a f owl we k now t hat

i t has been s t ol en by an Ar ab s l av e. "

" J ul y i ^ t h.

— The Bani an s l av es dec l ar ed bef or e

Dugumbe t hat t hey woul d go t o t he r i v er Lomame,

but no f ar t her . He s pok e l ong t o t hem, but t hey

wi l l not c ons ent t o go f ar t her . When t ol d t hey

woul d t her eby l os e al l t hei r pay , t hey r epl i ed, ' Yes ,

but not our l i v es , ' and wal k ed of l f mut t er i ng, whi c h

i s i ns ul t i ng t o one of hi s r ank . I t hen s ai d, ' I hav e

goods at Uj i j i ; t ak e t hem al l , and gi v e me men t o

f i ni s h my wor k ; i f not enough I wi l l add t o t hem, out

do not l et me be f or c ed t o r et ur n, now I am s o near

t he end of my under t ak i ng. ' He s ai d he woul d mak e

a pl an i n c onj unc t i on wi t h hi s as s oc i at es , and r epor t

t o me. "

The f i nal c r i s i s and end of t he l ong s t r uggl e c ame

at l as t . On J ul y 14t h t he onl y ent r y i s , " I am di s -

208 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t r es s ed and per pl ex ed what t o do s o as not t o be

Page 123 of 182

f oi l ed, but al l s eems agai ns t me. " For Dugumbe' s

men had quar r el ed wi t h t he ot her Ar abs and t hei r

l eader s Tagamoi o and Mani l l a, who had been bef or e

t hem on t he l ef t bank . To t hi s t hey had c r os s ed,

t hough Li v i ngs t one c oul d get no c anoes , and by way

of puni s hi ng t hei r r i v al s wer e now har r y i ng t he v i l -

l ages near t he r i v er .

" J ul y i ^ t h.

— The r epor t s of guns on t he ot her s i de

of t he Lual aba al l t he mor ni ng t el l of t he peopl e of

Dugumbe mur der i ng t hos e who had mi x ed bl ood"

( t he Many uema way of mak i ng a t r eat y ) ' ' wi t h

Mani l l a, o . . About 1, 500 peopl e c ame t o mar -

ket , t hough many v i l l ages of t hos e who us ual l y c ome

t o mar k et wer e now i n f l ames . I t was a hot s ul t r y

day , and when I went i nt o t he mar k et I s aw t hr ee of

t he men who had l at el y c ome wi t h Dugumbe. I was

sur pr i s ed t o s ee t hes e t hr ee wi t h t hei r guns , and f el t

i nc l i ned t o r epr ov e t hem f or br i ngi ng weapons i nt o

t he mar k et , but I at t r i but ed i t t o t hei r i gnor anc e, and

bei ng v er y hot , I was wal k i ng away t o go out of t he

mar k et when I s aw one of t he f el l ows haggl i ng about

a f owl , and s ei z i ng hol d of i t . Bef or e I had got

t hi r t y y ar ds out , t he di s c har ge of t wo guns i n t he

mi ddl e of t he c r owd t ol d me t hat s l aught er had

begun; c r owds das hed of f f r om t he pl ac e, t hr ew

down t hei r war es i n c onf us i on, and r an. At t he

same t i me t hat t he t hr ee opened f i r e on t he mas s of

peopl e at t he upper end of t he mar k et - pl ac e, v ol l ey s

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 209

wer e di s c har ged on t he pani c - s t r i c k en women who

das hed at t he c anoes . Thes e, s ome f i f t y or mor e,

wer e j ammed i n t he c r eek , and t he men f or got t hei r

paddl es i n t he t er r or t hat s ei z ed al l . The c anoes

coul d not be got out , f or t he c r eek was t oo s mal l f or

so many ; men and women wounded by t he bal l s

pour ed i nt o t hem, and l eaped and s c r ambl ed i nt o t he

wat er , s hr i ek i ng. A l ong l i ne of heads i n t he r i v er

show^ ed t hat gr eat number s s t r uc k out f or an i s l and

a f ul l mi l e of f . I n goi ng t owar d i t t hey had t o put

t he l ef t s houl der t o a c ur r ent of about t wo mi l es an

hour ; i f t hey had s t r uc k away di agonal l y t o t he op-

pos i t e bank t he c ur r ent woul d hav e ai ded t hem, and,

t hough near l y t hr ee mi l es of f , s ome woul d hav e

r eac hed l and; as i t was , t he heads abov e wat er

showed t he l ong l i ne of t hos e who woul d i nev i t abl y

per i s h. Shot af t er s hot c ont i nued t o be f i r ed on t he

hel pl es s and per i s hi ng. Some of t he l ong l i ne of

heads di s appear ed qui et l y , whi l e ot her poor c r eat ur es

t hr ew t hei r ar ms on hi gh, as i f appeal i ng t o t he gr eat

Fat her abov e, and s ank . By and by al l t he heads di s -

appear ed ; s ome had t ur ned down s t r eam t owar d t he

bank and es c aped. Dugumbe put peopl e i nt o one of

t he des er t ed boat s t o s av e t hos e i n t he wat er , and

sav ed t went y - one. . . . The Ar abs t hems el v es

es t i mat ed t he l os s of l i f e at bet ween 330 and 400

soul s . The s hoot i ng par t y near t he c anoes wer e s o

r ec k l es s t hat t hey k i l l ed t wo of t hei r own peo-

pl e. . . . My f i r s t i mpul s e was t o pi s t ol t he

Page 124 of 182

210 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

mur der er s , but Dugumbe pr ot es t ed agai ns t my get -

t i ng i nt o a bl ood f eud, and I was t hank f ul af t er -

war d t hat I t ook hi s adv i c e. . . = Af t er t he

t er r i bl e af f ai r i n t he wat er t he par t y of Taga-

moi o, t he c hi ef per pet r at or , c ont i nued t o f i r e

on t he peopl e on t he ot her s i de, and t o bur n

t hei r v i l l ages . As I wr i t e I hear t he wai l s on t he

l ef t bank ov er t hos e who ar e t her e s l ai n, i gnor ant of

t hei r many f r i ends now i n t he dept hs of t he Lual aba.

Oh, l et Thy k i ngdom c ome ! No one wi l l ev er k now

t he ex ac t l os s on t hi s br i ght s ul t r y s ummer mor ni ng ;

i t gav e me t he i mpr es s i on of bei ng i n hel l . . . .

Some es c aped t o me, and wer e pr ot ec t ed. I s ent men

wi t h our f l ag t o s av e s ome. . . . Who c oul d ac -

company t he peopl e of Dugumbe and Tagamoi o t o

Lomame and be f r ee f r om bl ood- gui l t i nes s ? . . .

I pr opos ed t o Dugumbe t o c at c h t he mur der er s , and

hang t hem up i n t he mar k et - pl ac e, as our pr ot es t

agai ns t t hes e bl oody deeds bef or e t he Many uema.

I f , as he and ot her s added, i t was c ommi t t ed by

Mani l l a' s peopl e, he woul d hav e c ons ent ed, but i t was

done by Tagamoi o' s peopl e, and ot her s of t hi s par t y

headed by Dugumbe. Thi s s l aught er was pec ul i ar l y

at r oc i ous , i nas muc h as we hav e hear d t hat women

comi ng t o or f r om mar k et hav e nev er been k nown t o

be mol es t ed, ev en when t wo di s t r i c t s ar e at

war . . . . Twent y - s ev en v i l l ages wer e des t r oy ed. "

" J ul y i 6t h.

— I r es t or ed upwar d of t hi r t y of t he

r es c ued t o t hei r f r i ends . Dugumbe s eer ned t o ^ c t i n

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 311

good f ai t h. = , o Many of t he head- men who

hav e been bur ned out by t he f or ay c ame ov er t o me,

and begged me t o c ome bac k wi t h t hem, and appoi nt

new l oc aHt i es f or t hem t o s et t l e i n, but I t ol d t hem I

was s o as hamed of t he c ompany i n whi c h I f ound

my s el f t hat I c oul d s c ar c el y l ook a Many uema i n t he

f ac e. They had bel i ev ed I wi s hed t o k i l l t hem.

What di d t hey t hi nk now? I c oul d not r emai n

among bl oody c ompani ons , and woul d f l ee away , I

sai d, but t hey begged me har d t o s t ay unt i l t hey wer e

agai n s et t l ed. . , . Dugumbe s aw t hat by k i l l -

i ng t he mar k et - peopl e he had c ommi t t ed a gr eat

er r or . I c oul d not r emai n t o s ee t o t hei r pr ot ec t i on,

and Dugumbe bei ng t he bes t of t he whol e hor de, I

adv i s ed t hem t o mak e f r i ends , and t hen appeal t o

hi m as abl e t o r es t r ai n t o s ome ex t ent hi s i nf amous

under l i ngs . . . . I s ee not hi ng f or i t but t o go

bac k t o Uj i j i f or ot her men. I wi s hed t o s peak

t o Tagamoi o about t he c apt i v e r el at i ons of t he

chi ef s , but he al way s r an away when he s aw me

comi ng. "

" J ul y l y t h.

— Al l t he r es t of Dugumbe' s par t y

of f er ed me a s har e of ev er y k i nd of goods t hey had.

I dec l i ned ev er y t hi ng s av e a l i t t l e gunpowder . . . ,

I t i s a s or e af f l i c t i on, at l eas t f or t y - f i v e day s i n a

Page 125 of 182

st r ai ght l i ne, equal t o 300 mi l es , or by t he t ur ni ngs

and wi ndi ngs 600 mi l es Engl i s h, and al l af t er f eed-

i ng and c l ot hi ng t hos e Bani an s l av es f or t went y - s i x

mont hs ! But i t i s f or t he bes t , t hough ; i f I do not

212 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t r us t t o t he r i f f - r af f of Uj i j i I mus t wai t f or ot her

men at l eas t t en mont hs t her e. "

' ^ J ul y i 8t h.

— The t er r i bl e s c enes of man' s i nhu-

mani t y t o man br ought on s ev er e headac he, whi c h

mi ght hav e been s er i ous had i t not been r el i ev ed by

a c opi ous di s c har ge of bl ood. I was l ai d up al l y es -

t er day af t er noon wi t h t he depr es s i on t he bl oods hed

made. I t f i l l ed me wi t h uns peak abl e hor r or . ' Don' t

go away , ' s ai d t he Many uema c hi ef s t o me; but I

can' t s t ay her e i n agony . "

" J t t l y i gt h.

— Dugumbe s ent me a f i ne goat , a

manc h of gunpowder , a manc h of f i ne bl ue beads ,

and 230 c owr i es t o buy pr ov i s i ons on t he way . . . .

A f ew mar k et - peopl e appear ed t o- day ; f or mer l y t hey

came i n c r owds , about 200 i n al l , c hi ef l y t hos e who

hav e not l os t r el at i v es , one v er y beaut i f ul woman

wi t h a gun- s hot wound i n her upper ar m, t i ed r ound

wi t h l eav es . Sev en c anoes c ame i ns t ead of f i f t y ; but

t hey hav e gr eat t enac i t y and hopef ul nes s ; an ol d-

es t abl i s hed c us t om has muc h c har ms f or t hem, and

t he mar k et wi l l agai n be at t ended i f no new out r age

i s c ommi t t ed. "

Nex t day he s t ar t ed on t he wear y r et ur n j our ney

t o Uj i j i . " I s t ar t bac k f or Uj i j i . Al l Dugumbe' s

peopl e c ame t o s ay good- by , and c onv ey me a l i t t l e

way . I made a s hor t mar c h, f or bei ng l ong i nac t i v e

i t i s unwi s e t o t i r e ones el f on t he f i r s t day , as i t i s

t hen di f f i c ul t t o get ov er t he ef f ec t s . " Opht hal mi a

was now added t o hi s ot her ai l ment s , and t hi s mar c h

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 213

bac k pr ov ed t he mos t mi s er abl e of al l hi s t r av el s .

The c ount r y was up, and t wi c e he f el l i nt o an am-

bus h, es c api ng he har dl y k new how. " I bec ame

wear y wi t h t he c ons t ant s t r ai n of danger , and — as I

suppos e happens wi t h s ol di er s on t he f i el d of bat t l e —

not c our ageous , but per f ec t l y i ndi f f er ent whet her I

wer e k i l l ed or not . "

' ' Oc t ober 2^ d.

— At dawn of f , and go t o Uj i j i .

Wel c omed by al l t he Ar abs . I was now r educ ed t o a

sk el et on, but t he mar k et bei ng hel d dai l y , and al l

ki nds of goods br ought t o i t , I hoped t hat f ood and

r es t woul d s oon r es t or e me; but i n t he ev eni ng my

peopl e c ame and t ol d me t hat Sher eef had s ol d of f

al l my goods . He had not l ef t a s i ngl e y ar d of c al i c o

out of 3, 000, nor a s t r i ng of beads out of 700 l bs .

Thi s was di s t r es s i ng. T had made up my mi nd, i f I

coul d not get peopl e at Uj i j i , t o wai t t i l l men s houl d

Page 126 of 182

come f r om t he coast , but t o wai t i n beggar y was

what I never cont empl at ed, and I now f el t mi ser -

abl e. "

' ' Oct ober 24t h. — I f el t i n my dest i t ut i on as i f I

wer e t he man who went down f r om Jer usal em t o

Jer i cho and f el l among t hi eves ; but I coul d not hope

f or Pr i est , Levi t e, or Good Samar i t an t o come by on

ei t her si de ; but one mor ni ng Sayd bi n Maj i d, a good

man, sai d t o me, ' Now t hi s i s t he f i r st t i me we have

been al one t oget her . I have no goods, but I have

i vor y; l et me, I pr ay you, sel l some of t he i vor y and

gi ve t he goods t o you. ' Thi s was encour agi ng, but

214 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

I sai d, ' Not yet , but by and by. ' I had st i l l a f ew

bar t er goods l ef t , whi ch I had t aken t he pr ecaut i on

t o deposi t wi t h Mohamed ben Sal i h bef or e goi ng t o

Manyuema, i n case of r et ur ni ng i n ext r eme need.

But when my spi r i t s wer e at t hei r l owest ebb t he

Good Samar i t an was cl ose at hand, f or one mor n-

i ng ( Oct ober 20t h) Susi came r unni ng at t he t op of

hi s speed, and gasped out , ' An Engl i shman! I see

hi m ! ' and of f he dar t ed t o meet hi m. The Amer i can

f l ag at t he head of a car avan t ol d of t he nat i onal i t y

of t he st r anger . Bal es of goods, bat hs of t i n, huge

ket t l es, cooki ng pot s, t ent s, et c. , made me t hi nk t hi s

must be a l uxur i ous t r avel l er , and not one at hi s wi t ' s

end l i ke me. I t was Henr y Mor el and St anl ey, t he

t r avel l i ng cor r espondent of t he New Yor k Her al d,

sent by James Gor don Bennet t at an expense of mor e

t han 4, 000 t o obt ai n accur at e i nf or mat i on about

Dr . Li v i ngs t one i f l i v i ng, and i f dead t o br i ng home

my bones . . . . I r eal l y do f eel ex t r emel y gr at e-

f ul , and at t he s ame t i me am a l i t t l e as hamed at not

bei ng mor e wor t hy of t he gener os i t y . Mr . St anl ey

has done hi s wor k wi t h unt i r i ng ener gy ; good j udg-

ment i n t he t eet h of v er y s er i ous obs t ac l es . Hi s

hel pmat es t ur ned out depr av ed bl ac k guar ds , who by

t hei r ex c es s es at Zanz i bar and el s ewher e had r ui ned

t hei r c ons t i t ut i ons and pr epar ed t hei r s y s t ems t o be

f i t pr ov ender f or t he gr av e. "

Li v i ngs t one s t ood out s i de hi s hous e and l i f t ed hi s

cap wi t h t he gol d b^ nd t Q t he newc omer when Sus i

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 215

l ed hi m up i n t r i umph, and t hey went i n t oget her t o '

t he hut .

Bef or e c l os i ng t hi s c hapt er and ent er i ng on t he l as t

t wo y ear s of Li v i ngs t one' s l i f e, whi c h hav e s o l i v el y

an i nt er es t of t hei r own, i t wi l l be c onv eni ent t o

gl anc e at t he c ont r i but i ons t o nat ur al s c i enc e whi c h

he c ont i nued t o mak e t o t he v er y end. I n doi ng t hi s ,

we av ai l our s el v es of a v er y t ender and Chr i s t i an

t r i but e t o t he memor y of hi s ear l y f r i end, whi c h

Pr of es s or Owen c ont r i but ed t o t he Quar t er l y Re-

Page 127 of 182

vi c z i ) , Apr i l , 1875, ^ ^ t er t he publ i c at i on of Li v i ng-

st one' s " Las t J our nal s . "

Mr . Owen appear s t o hav e been c onv i nc ed by Li v -

i ngs t one' s r eas oni ng and obs er v at i ons , t hat t he Ni l e

sour c es wer e i n t he Bangweol o wat er s hed — a s uppo-

si t i on now as c er t ai ned t o hav e been er r oneous . But

what c hi ef l y at t r ac t ed and del i ght ed t he gr eat nat u-

r al i s t was t he many i nt er es t i ng not i c es of pl ant s and

ani mal s s c at t er ed ov er t he " Las t J our nal s . " Thes e

Jour nal s c ont ai n i mpor t ant c ont r i but i ons bot h t o ec o-

nomi c and phy s i ol ogi c al bot any . I n t he f or mer de-

par t ment , Li v i ngs t one mak es v al uabl e obs er v at i ons

on pl ant s us ef ul i n t he ar t s , s uc h as gum- c opal ,

papy r us , c ot t on, i ndi a- r ubber , and t he pal m- oi l t r ee ;

whi l e i n t he l at t er , hi s not i c es of " c ar ni v or ous

pl ant s , " whi c h c at c h i ns ec t s t hat pr obabl y y i el d

nour i s hment t o t he pl ant , of s i l i c i f i ed wood and t he

l i k e, s how how c ar ef ul l y he w^ at c hed al l t hat t hr ows

l i ght on t he l i f e and c hanges of pl ant s . I n z ool ogy

216 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

he was nev er wear y of obs er v i ng, es pec i al l y when he

f ound a s t r ange- l ook i ng ani mal wi t h s t r ange habi t s .

Spi der s , ant s , and bees of unk nown v ar i et i es wer e

br ought t o l i ght , but t he s t r anges t of hi s new ac -

quai nt anc es wer e among t he f i s hy t r i bes . He f ound

f i s h t hat made l ong ex c ur s i ons on l and, t hank s t o t he

wet gr as s t hr ough whi c h t hey woul d wander f or

mi l es , t hus pr ov i ng t hat " a f i s h out of wat er " i s not

al way s t he bes t s y mbol f or a man out of hi s el ement .

I n hi s l ov e of nat ur e, and i n hi s c ar ef ul obs er v a-

t i on of al l her agenc i es and pr oc es s es , Li v i ngs t one,

i n hi s l as t j our ney s , was t he s ame as ev er . He

l ook ed r ev er ent l y on al l pl ant s and ani mal s , and on

t he s ol i d ear t h i n al l i t s as pec t s and f or ms , as t he

cr eat ur es of t hat s ame God whos e l ov e i n Chr i s t i t

was hi s hear t ' s del i ght t o pr oc l ai m. Hi s whol e l i f e,

so v ar i ed i n i t s out war d empl oy ment s , y et s o s i mpl e

and t r ans par ent i n i t s one gr eat obj ec t , was r ul ed by

t he c onv i c t i on t hat t he God of nat ur e and t he God of

r ev el at i on wer e one. Whi l e t hor oughl y enj oy i ng hi s

wor k as a nat ur al i s t , Pr of es s or Owen f r ank l y admi t s

t hat i t was but a s ec ondar y obj ec t of hi s l i f e. " Of

hi s pr i mar y wor k t he r ec or d i s on hi gh, and i t s i m-

per i s habl e f r ui t s r emai n on ear t h. The s eeds of t he

Wor d of Li f e i mpl ant ed l ov i ngl y , wi t h pai ns and

l abor , and abov e al l wi t h f ai t h ; t he out - door s c enes

of t he s i mpl e Sabbat h s er v i c e ; t he t es t i mony of Hi m

t o whom t he wor s hi p was pai d, gi v en i n t er ms of

suc h s i mpl i c i t y as wer e f i t t ed t o t he c ompr ehens i on

MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYI KA. 217

of t he dar k - s k i nned l i s t ener s — t hes e s eeds wi l l not

hav e been s c at t er ed by hi m i n v ai n. Nor hav e t hey

been s own i n wor ds al one, but i n deeds , of whi c h

some par t of t he honor wi l l r edound t o hi s s uc c es -

sor s . The t eac hi ng by f or gi v enes s of i nj ur i es — by

Page 128 of 182

t r us t , howev er unwor t hy t he t r us t ed — ^ by t hat c on-

f i denc e whi c h i mput ed hi s own nobl e nat ur e t o t hos e

whom he woul d wi n — by t he pr ac t i c al enf or c ement

of t he f ac t t hat a man mi ght pr omi s e and per f or m

— mi ght s ay t he t hi ng he meant

— of t hi s t eac hi ng by

good deeds , as wel l as by t he wor ds of t r ut h and

l ov e, t he s uc c es s or who t r eads i n t he s t eps of Li v -

i ngs t one, and ac c ompl i s hes t he di s c ov er y he ai med

at , and poi nt ed t he way t o, wi l l as s ur edl y r eap t he

benef i t . "

CHAPTER XI I L

STANLEYo

187I .

The l et t er - bag mar k ed Nov ember i , 1870, whi c h

had been l y i ng at Uny any embe i n c har ge of Kai f -

Hal ek ( " How do y ou do?" ) , a s er v ant of Li v i ng-

st one whom St anl ey had br ought up wi t h hi m, l ay

ac r os s t he Doc t or ' s k nees when t hey s at down i n t he

hut . He opened i t , r ead one or t wo of hi s c hi l dr en' s

l et t er s , and t hen as k ed f or t he news , *

* Ther e was one pi ec e of news br ought by St anl ey t o Li v -

i ngs t one t hat was f ar f r om s at i s f ac t or y . At Bagamoi o, on t he

coas t , St anl ey had f ound a c ar av an wi t h s uppl i es f or Li v i ng-

st one t hat had been di s pat c hed f r om Zanz i bar t hr ee or f our

mont hs bef or e, t he men i n c har ge of whi c h had been l y i ng

i dl e t her e al l t hat t i mx C on t he pr et ex t t hat t hey wer e wai t i ng

f or c ar r i er s . A l et t er - bag was al s o l y i ng at Bagamoi o, al -

t hough s ev er al c ar av ans f or Uj i j i had l ef t i n t he meant i me.

On hear i ng t hat t he Cons ul at Zanz i bar , Dr . Ki r k , was c om-

i ng t o t he nei ghbor hood t o hunt , t he par t y at l as t made of f .

Ov er t ak i ng t hem at Uny any embe, St anl ey t ook c har ge of

Li v i ngs t one' s s t or es , but was not abl e t o br i ng t hem on ; onl y

he c ompel l ed t he l et t er - c ar r i er t o c ome on t o Uj i j i wi t h hi s

bag. At what t i me, but f or St anl ey , Li v i ngs t one woul d hav e

got hi s l et t er s , whi c h af t er al l wer e a y ear on t he way , he

coul d not hav e t ol d. For hi s s t or es , or s uc h f r agment s of t hem

as mi ght r emai n, he had af t er war d t o t r udge al l t he way t o

Uny any embe. Hi s l et t er s c onv ey ed t he news t hat Gov er n-

218

STANLEY. 219

" No, Doc t or ; r ead y our l et t er s f i r s t . "

" Ah, I hav e wai t ed y ear s f or l et t er s , and hav e been

t aught pat i enc e. I c an wai t a f ew hour s l onger .

Tel l me t he news . How i s t he wor l d get t i ng on?"

" The news he had t o t el l , ' ' Li v i ngs t one wr i t es , ' * t o

one who had been t wo f ul l y ear s wi t hout any t i di ngs

f r om Eur ope, made my whol e f r ame t hr i l l . The t er -

r i bl e f at e t hat had bef al l en Fr anc e; t he t el egr aphi c

cabl es s uc c es s f ul l y l ai d i n t he At l ant i c ; t he el ec t i on

of Gener al Gr ant ; t he deat h of good Lor d Cl ar endon,

my c ons t ant f r i end; t he pr oof t hat H. M. ' s Gov er n-

Page 129 of 182

ment had not f or got t en me i n v ot i ng

i , ooo f or s up-

pl i es , and many ot her poi nt s of i nt er es t , r ev i v ed

emot i ons t hat had l ai n dor mant i n Many uema. "

Thi s f l ood of news was pour ed out on t he Doc t or

by hi s c ompani on as t hey s at at t hei r f i r s t meal t o-

get her . The Ar abs , not i ng t he t ur n i n t he t i de, s ent

i n t hei r bes t di s hes — Mohamed ben Sal i h, a c ur r i ed

chi c k en; Moene Kher i , s t ewed goat ' s meat , et c . " Li v -

i ngs t one, who had been abl e t o t ak e not hi ng but t ea

f or s ome day s , at e l i k e a v i gor ous and heal t hy man,

and as he v i ed wi t h me i n demol i s hi ng t he panc ak es ,

kept r epeat i ng, ' You hav e br ought me new l i f e, y ou

hav e br ought me new l i f e ! ' " St anl ey s at oppos i t e,

enj oy i ng hi s wel l - ear ned s uc c es s , and pr es ent l y

ment had v ot ed a t hous and pounds f or hi s r el i ef , and wer e

bes i des t o pay hi m a s al ar y . The unpl eas ant f eel i ng he had

had s o l ong as t o hi s t r eat ment by Gov er nment was t hus at

l as t s omewhat r el i ev ed.

220 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE. /

cal l ed out : " ' Oh, by Geor ge ! I hav e f or got t en.

Sel i m, br i ng t hat bot t l e and t he s i l v er gobl et s . ' They

wer e br ought , and we pl edged one anot her i n Si l l er y

champagne. "

That ni ght t he Doc t or s at up l at e r eadi ng hi s

budget , but was up bef or e hi s v i s i t or t o gr eet hi m i n

t he v er anda wi t h, ' ' ' Good- mor ni ng, Mr . St anl ey . I

hope y ou r es t ed wel l . You hav e br ought me good

and bad news . But s i t down, ' mak i ng r oom f or me

by hi s s i de. ' Yes , many of my f r i ends ar e dead.

My el des t s on has met wi t h a bad ac c i dent

— t hat i s

my boy Tom. My s ec ond s on, Os wel l , i s at Col l ege

st udy i ng medi c i ne, and i s doi ng wel l , I am t ol d.

Agnes , my el des t daught er , has been enj oy i ng her s el f

i n a y ac ht wi t h ' ' Si r Par af i ne" Young and hi s f am-

i l y . Si r Roder i c k i s wel l , and hopes he s hal l s oon

see me. You hav e br ought me qui t e a budget . ' "

Af t er ex pl ai ni ng hi s mi s s i on, and el i c i t i ng t he

Doc t or ' s t hank f ul ac k nowl edgment t hat he had

come j us t at t he r i ght t i me, f or " I was begi nni ng

t o t hi nk I s houl d hav e t o beg f r om t he Ar abs , " St an-

l ey or der ed hi s s er v ant Fer aj j i t o br i ng br eak f as t ,

ex c el l ent t ea, and hot " damper s , " s er v ed i n s i l v er

on a Per s i an c ar pet . The Doc t or wat c hed admi r -

i ngl y , and, whi l e doi ng j us t i c e t o t he s of t c ak es — a

del i ght f ul c hange f r om t he unc ook ed c or n- ear s

whi c h he had been l i v i ng on of l at e, and whi c h had

l oos ened al l hi s t eet h — r emar k ed, " You hav e gi v en

me an appet i t e. Hal i mah i s my c ook , but s he nev er

STANLEY. 221

can t el l t he di f f er enc e bet ween t ea and c of f ee. " Hal -

i mah was t he wi f e of one of hi s f our men who had

r emai ned f ai t hf ul . ' ' I ns t ead of my s par e t as t el es s

Page 130 of 182

t wo meal s a day , " t he J our nal r uns , " 1 at e f our t i mes

a day , and s oon began t o f eel s t r ong. I am not a

demons t r at i v e man, as c ol d, i n f ac t , as we i s l ander s

ar e r eput ed t o be, but t he di s i nt er es t ed k i ndnes s of

Mr . Bennet t , c ar r i ed i nt o ef t ' ec t by Mr . St anl ey , was

si mpl y ov er whel mi ng. "

The i nt i mac y gr ew apac e, and t he s t r ong i mpul -

si v e y oung c or r es pondent was s oon under t he s pel l

of Li v i ngs t one' s c har ac t er — " a c har ac t er , " he wr i t es ,

" t hat I v ener at ed, t hat c al l ed f or t h al l my ent hus i as m

and s i nc er es t admi r at i on. He i s about s i x t y y ear s

ol d, t hough af t er he was r es t or ed t o heal t h he l ook ed

l i k e a man who had not pas s ed hi s f i f t i et h y ear . Hi s

hai r has a br owni s h c ol or y et , but i s her e and t her e

st r eak ed wi t h gr ay l i nes ov er t he t empl es ; hi s whi s -

ker s and mus t ac he ar e v er y gr ay . He s hav es hi s c hi n

dai l y . Hi s ey es , whi c h ar e haz el , ar e r emar k abl y

br i ght ; he has a s i ght k een as a hawk . Hi s t eet h

al one i ndi c at e t he weak nes s of age; t he har d i ar e\

has made hav oc i n t hei r l i nes . Hi s f or m, whi c h s oon

as s umed a s t out i s h appear anc e, i s a l i t t l e ov er t he

or di nar y hei ght , wi t h t he s l i ght es t pos s i bl e s t oop i n

t he s houl der s . When \ v al k i ng he t ak es a f i r m but

heav y t r ead, l i k e t hat of a f at i gued man. He i s

ac c us t omed t o wear a nav al c ap, by whi c h he has

been i dent i f i ed t hr ous ^ hout Af r i c a. Hi s dr es s when

222 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

f i r s t I s aw hi m ex hi bi t ed t r ac es of pat c hi ng and r e-

pai r i ng, but was s c r upul ous l y neat . . c o Ther e

i s a good- nat ur ed abandon about hi m. Whenev er he

began a l augh, t her e was a c ont agi on about i t t hat

compel l ed me t o i mi t at e hi m. I t was s uc h a l augh

as Her r Teuf el s dr oc k h' s — a l augh of t he whol e

man f r om head t o heel . I f he t ol d a s t or y hi s f ac e

was l i t up by t he s l y f un i t c ont ai ned. "

Soon t he ol d t r av el l er was anx i ous t o be up and

away , t o f i ni s h hi s t as k ; but he had onl y f our mal e

f ol l ower s l ef t , and a f ew y ar ds of c l ot h. I n r e-

count i ng hi s t r av el s t o St anl ey he had ment i oned t hat

he had nev er ex pl or ed t he nor t her n par t of Lak e

Tangany i k a. The c hoi c e had l ai n bet ween t hi s and

ver i f y i ng t he c ent r al l i ne of dr ai nage of t he Lual aba.

Thi s l at t er he hel d t o be t he mor e i mpor t ant , and t o

t hat he had t ur ned when, as we k now, he pus hed on t o

t he wes t , wher e he had f ol l owed t he gr eat r i v er ov er

sev en degr ees nor t hwar d i nt o t he Many uema c oun-

t r y . He had been baf f l ed t her e and obl i ged t o t ur n

bac k ; but t hi s was t he wor k he mus t go bac k t o, and

1 f i ni s h. I s t he Lual aba t he wes t er n s our c e of t he Ni l e?

That was t he gr eat ques t i on. As f or Tangany i k a,

he bel i ev ed i t woul d be f ound t o be c onnec t ed wi t h

t he Al ber t Ny anz a by a r i v er , t he Lus i z e or Rus i z i ,

f l owi ng out of i t s nor t her n ex t r emi t y . Thi s was hi s

bel i ef , bas ed on t he r epor t s of Ar abs and a t es t as t o

t he f l ow of t he l ak e whi c h he had made wi t h wat er -

pl ant s , but he had har dl y gi v en i t a t hought .

Page 131 of 182

STANLEY, 22- d

* Why not expl or e t he nor t her n end bef or e you

l eave Uj i j i ?" St anl ey suggest ed. " I have t went y

men who under st and boat i ng, and pl ent y of guns,

cl ot h, and beads. "

" I am r eady whenever you ar e, " Li vi ngst one an-

swer ed.

* ' No, I am at your command. Don' t you hear my

men cal l you ' t he gr eat mast er ' and me ' t he l i t t l e

mast er ' ? I t woul d never do f or t he l i t t l e mast er t o

command. "

St anl ey' s st at ement t hat Si r Roder i ck was i nt er -

est ed set t l ed t he quest i on f i nal l y t ha; t t hey shoul d em-

bar k on " t hi s pi cni c, " as t he Doct or cal l ed i t .

Havi ng bor r owed a canoe capabl e of car r yi ng

t went y- f i ve men and st or es f r om Sayd bi n Maj i d, of

whom Li vi ngst one had sai d, " I f ever t her e was an

Ar ab gent l eman, he was one, " t hey st ar t ed f or t he

nor t her n end of Lake Tanganyi ka on November i 6,

1871.

They r owed t o t he ext r eme nor t h of t he l ake, and

ascer t ai ned t hat t he r i ver Lusi ze f l owed i nt o t he l ake

and not out of i t , as di d al l t he ot her r i ver s whose

mout l i s t hey passed. Thus t he Ar ab t est i mony agai n

br oke down. No out l et t o t he l ake coul d be f ound ;

but t he Doct or r et ai ned hi s f i r m bel i ef t hat an out -

l et must exi st , t hough he had been unabl e t o f i nd i t . *

* I t was agr eed t hat t he t wo t r avel l er s shoul d make a shor t

excur si on t o t he nor t h end of Lake Tanganyi ka, t o ascer t ai n

whet her t he l ake had an out l et t her e. Thi s was done, but i t

224 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

On December 13 t h t hey r et ur ned t o Uj i j i , havi ng

made t he ci r cui t of t he whol e of Lake Tanganyi ka

nor t h of t hat t own. To Li vi ngst one i t had been a

t i me of r est and r ecr ui t i ng, t hough he had one shar p

bi l i ous at t ack, whi l e St anl ey was t wi ce st r uck down

by sever e f ever .

The i nci dent s of t he voyage wer e f ew, but t he way

i n whi ch t hey i mpr essed t he t wo t r avel l er s, and ar e

sever al l y r ecount ed by t hem, i l l ust r at es t he char ac -

t er s of t he t wo men, and t he hol d whi ch t he el der

was get t i ng on t he younger . The f ol l owi ng may

ser ve as speci mens.

was f ound t hat i nst ead of f l owi ng out , t he r i ver Lusi ze f l owed

i nt o t he l ake, so t hat t he not i on t hat t he l ake di schar ged i t sel f

nor t hwar d t ur ned out t o be an er r or . Meanwhi l e, t he f ut ur e

ar r angement s of Dr . Li vi ngst one wer e mat t er of anxi ous

consi der at i on. One t hi ng was f i xed and cer t ai n f r om t he be-

gi nni ng: Li vi ngst one woul d not go home wi t h St anl ey. Much

t hough hi s hear t year ned f or home and f ami l y — al l t he mor e

Page 132 of 182

t hat he had j ust l ear ned t hat hi s son Thomas had had a dan-

ger ous acci dent — and much t hough he needed t o r ecr ui t hi s

st r engt h and nur se hi s ai l ment s, he woul d not t hi nk of i t

whi l e hi s wor k r emai ned unf i ni shed. To t ur n back t O' t hose

dr ear y sponges, sl eep i n t hose f l ooded pl ai ns, encount er anew

t hat t er r i bl e pneumoni a whi ch was " wor se t han t en f ever s, "

or t hat di st r essi ng hcnemor r hage whi ch added ext r eme weak-

ness t o ext r eme agony — mi ght have t ur ned any hear t ; Li vi ng-

st one never f l i nched f r om i t . What a r ecept i on awai t ed hi m

i f he had gone home t o Engl and ! What v/ el come f r om

f r i ends and chi l dr en, what t r i umphal cheer s f r om al l t he gr eat

soci et i es and savant s, what honor s f r om al l who had honor s t o

conf er , what oppor t uni t y of r enewi ng ef f or t s t o est abl i sh mi s -

si ons and commer ce, and t o suppr ess t he sl ave- t r af f i c ! Then

he mi ght r et ur n t o Af r i ca i n a vear . and f i ni sh hi s wor k.

STANLEY. 225

Li vi ngst one. — ' ' November 20t h. — Passed a ver y

cr owded popul at i on, t he men cal l i ng t o us t o l and

and be f l eeced and i nsul t ed; t hey t hr ew st ones, and

one, appar ent l y sl ung, l i ght ed cl ose t o t he canoe.

The l ake nar r ows t o about t en mi l es, as t he west er n

mount ai ns come t owar d t he east er n r ange, t hat bei ng

about N. N. W. magnet i c. Many st umps of t r ees

ki l l ed by wat er show an encr oachment by t he l ake on

t he east si de. A t r ansver se r ange seems t o shut i n

t he nor t h end, but t her e i s open count r y t o t he east

and west of i t s ends. "

St anl ey. — " About hal f - way bet ween Cape Ki san-

we and Mur embeve i s a cl ust er of vi l l ages whi ch has

a mut ar e ( head- man) , who i s i n t he habi t of t aki ng

honga ( t r i but e) . They cal l ed t o us t o come ashor e,

t hr eat eni ng us wi t h t he vengeance of t he gr eat

Wami i f we di d not hal t . As t he voi ces wer e any -

t hi ng but si r en- l i ke, we obst i nat el y r ef used. Fi nd-

i ng t hr eat s of no avai l , t hey had r ecour se t o st ones,

and f l ung t hem at us i n a most hear t y manner . As

one came wi t hi n a f oot of my ar m, I suggest ed t hat

a bul l et shoul d be sent i n r et ur n i n cl ose pr oxi mi t y t o

t hei r f eet , but Li vi ngst one, t hough he sai d not hi ng,

showed cl ear l y t hat he di d not appr ove of t hi s. "

Li vi ngst one. — ' ' November 21st . — Landed under a

cl i f f t o r est and cook, but a cr owd came and made

i nqui r i es ; t hen a f ew mor e came as i f t o i nvest i gat e

mor e per f ect l y. They t ol d us t o sl eep, and t o- mor -

r ow f r i endshi p shoul d be made. We put our l ug-

226 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

gage on boar d, and set a wat ch on t he cl i f f . A num-

ber of men came al ong, cower i ng behi nd r ocks, and

we sl i pped of f qui et l y; t hey cal l ed af t er us as men

bal ked of t hei r pr ey. "

St anl ey. — ' ' Our ket t l e was boi l i ng f or t ea, and t he

men had bui l t a l i t t l e f i r e f or t hemsel ves, and had

f i l l ed t hei r ear t hen pot wi t h wat er f or por r i dge,

Page 133 of 182

when our l ook- out s per cei ved dar k f or ms cr eepi ng

t owar d our bi vouac. Bei ng hai l ed, t hey came f or -

war d and sal ut ed us wi t h t he nat i ve Vake. ' Our

gui des expl ai ned t hat we wer e Wangwana ( whi t es) ,

and i nt ended t o camp t i l l mor ni ng, when, i f t hey had

anyt hi ng t o sel l , we woul d t r ade. They sai d t hey

wer e r ej oi ced t o hear t hi s, and af t er t hey had ex -

changed a f ew wor ds mor e — dur i ng whi ch we ob-

ser ved t hat t hey wer e t aki ng not es of t he camp —

went away. Thr ee ot her par t i es f ol l owed, and r e-

t i r ed i n l i ke manner . We had good cause t o be sus -

pi ci ous at t hi s goi ng backwar d and f or war d, and, as

our supper had been despat ched, we t hought i t hi gh

t i me t o act . The men wer e hur r i ed i nt o t he canoe,

and when al l wer e seat ed, and t he l ook- out s em-

bar ked, we qui et l y pushed of f , but not a moment t oo

soon. As t he canoe gl i ded f r om t he dar kened l i ght

t hat sur r ounded us, I cal l ed t he Doct or ' s at t ent i on t o

dar k f or ms, some cr ouchi ng behi nd t he r ocks on our

r i ght , ot her s scr ambl i ng over t hem, and di r ect l y a

voi ce hai l ed us f r om t he t op of t he bank under whi ch

we had been l at el y r est i ng. ' Neat l j r done, ' sai d t hq

STANLEY. 227

Doct or , as we shot t hr ough t he wat er , l eavi ng t he

di scomf i t ed woul d- be r obber s behi nd us. Her e

agai n my hand was st ayed f r om pl ant i ng a coupl e of

shot s as a war ni ng t o t hem, by t he pr esence of t he

Doct or / '

Li vi ngst one. — ' ' November 2^ t h. — We came t o

some vi l l ages on a hi gh bank, wher e Makunga i s l i v-

i ng. The chi ef , a young, good- l ooki ng man, came

and wel comed us. War r ages bet ween Makunga

and Uasmasene, a chi ef bet ween t hi s and Lusi ger .

Ten men wer e ki l l ed by Makunga' s peopl e a f ew

days ago. Vast number s of f i sher men pl y t hei r cal l -

i ng ni ght and day as f ar as we can see. I gave

Al akunga ni ne dot i s and ni ne f undos. "

St anl ey. — ^ ^ Our second eveni ng at Makunga' s,

Susi , t he Doct or ' s ser vant , got gl or i ousl y dr unk

t hr ough t he chi ef ' s l i ber al and pr of use gi f t s of

pombe. Just at dawn next mor ni ng I was awakened

by sever al shar p, cr ack- l i ke sounds. I l i st ened, and

f ound t he noi se was i n our hut . I t v/ as caused by

t he Doct or , who, t ow^ ar d mi dni ght , had f el t some

one come and l i e down by hi s si de on t he same bed,

and, t hi nki ng i t was I , had ki ndl y made r oom, and

l ai n on t he edge of t he bed. But i n t he mor ni ng,

f eel i ng col d, he had t hor oughl y awakened, and r i s-

i ng on hi s el bow t o see who hi s bed- f el l ow was, di s-

cover ed, t o hi s ast oni shment , t hat i t was Susi , who,

havi ng t aken possessi on of hi s bl anket s and f ol ded

t hem about hi msel f , was occupyi ng al most t he whol e

228 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

bed. The Doct or , wi t h t he gent l eness char act er i st i c

Page 134 of 182

of hi m, i nst ead of t aki ng a r od, cont ent ed hi msel f

wi t h sl appi ng Susi on t he back, sayi ng, ' Get up,

Susi , wi l l you ! You' r e i n my bed. How dar e you,

si r , get dr unk af t er I have t ol d you so of t en not t o?

Get up! You won' t ! Take t hat , and t hat , and

t hat . ' St i l l Susi sl ept and gr unt ed, so t he sl appi ng

cont i nued, t i l l even Susi ' s t hi ck hi de began t o f eel i t ,

and he was t hor oughl y wakened t o hi s want of devo-

t i on t o hi s mast er , and l ooked ver y much cr est f al l en

at t hi s expose of hi s i nf i r mi t y bef or e ' t he l i t t l e mas -

t er , ' as I was cal l ed.

' T had seen not hi ng t o compar e t o t hese f i shi ng

set t l ement s under t he shade of a gr ove of pal ms and

pl ant ai ns, bani ans, and mi mosas, wi t h capsoa gar -

dens t o t he r i ght and l ef t , l ooki ng down on a qui et

bay, whose cal m wat er s r ef l ect ed t he beaut i es of t he

hi l l s whi ch shel t er ed t hem f r om t he r ough t empest s

whi ch so of t en bl ew wi t hout . The f i sher men evi -

dent l y t hi nk t hemsel ves comf or t abl y si t uat ed. Na-

t ur e has suppl i ed t hem bount i f ul l y wi t h al l t hat a

man' s hear t or st omach can desi r e. I t i s whi l e l ook -

i ng at what seems com. pl et e and per f ect happi ness

t hat t he t hought occur s, how must t hese peopl e si gh,

when dr i ven acr oss t he dr ear y wi l der ness bet ween

t he l ake count r y and t he sea- coast , f or such homes as

t hese; bought by Ar abs f or t wo dot i , and dr i ven t o

Zanzi bar t o pi ck cl oves or do hamal wor k. "

Li vi ngst one, — ' ' December 9^ / ^ . — Leave New Yor k

STANLEY. 229

Her al d I sl et and go sout h t o Lubumba Cape. The

peopl e now ar e t he Basansos al ong t he coast . Some

men her e wer e dr unk and t r oubl esome. We gave

t hem a pr esent , and l ef t t hem about hal f - past f our i n

t he af t er noon, and went t o an i sl et i n t he nor t h end

i n about t hr ee hour s' good pul l i ng; af t er war d i n

ei ght hour s t o east er n shor e. Thi s makes t he l ake,

say, t went y- ei ght or t hi r t y mi l es br oad. We coast ed

al ong t o Makunga' s and r est ed. "

St anl ey. — " Af t er br eakf ast we l ay down as usual

f or an af t er noon nap. I soon f el l asl eep, and was

dr eami ng away i n my t ent i n happy obl i vi on, when

I hear d a voi ce hai l i ng me : ' Mast er ! mast er ! get up

qui ck. Her e' s a f i ght goi ng t o begi n. ' I spr ang

up, snat ched my r evol ver - bel t f r om t he gun- st and,

and went out si de. Sur e enough, t her e appear ed t o

be consi der abl e ani mus bet ween a noi sy, vi ndi ct i ve-

l ooki ng set of men and our peopl e. Seven or ei ght

of our peopl e had t aken r ef uge behi nd t he canoe, and

had t hei r guns hal f poi nt i ng at t he passi onat e mob,

moment ar i l y i ncr easi ng i n number s ; but I coul d not

see t he Doct or anywher e.

" ' Wher e' s t he Doct or ?' I asked.

" * Gone over t he hi l l , si r , wi t h hi s compass/ sai d

Sel i m.

Page 135 of 182

" * Any one wi t h hi m ?'

" * Susi and Chumah. '

" ' You, Bombay, send of f t wo men t o war n t he

Doct or , and t dl hi m t o hur r y up her e/

230 THE LI FE OE DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" Just t hen t he Doct or and hi s t wo men appear ed

on t he br ow of t he hi l l , l ooki ng down i n a most com-

pl acent manner on t he ser i o- comi c scene whi ch 4: he

l i t t l e basi n we wer e i n pr esent ed. A naked young

man, per f ect l y dr unk, bar el y abl e t o st and, beat i ng

t he gr ound wi t h hi s onl y l oi n- cl ot h, scr eami ng and

st or mi ng away l i ke a madman, decl ar i ng by t hi s and

by t hat , i n hi s own choi ce l anguage, t hat no Ar ab

shoul d hal t one moment on t he sacr ed soi l of Umsi si .

Hi s f at her , t he Sul t an, was as dr unk as he, t hough

not qui t e so vi ol ent .

" Sel i m sl i pped my Wi nchest er r i f l e, wi t h t he

magazi ne f ul l of car t r i dges, i nt o my hand, as t he

Doct or ar r i ved on t he scene and. asked cal ml y what

was t he mat t er . He was answer ed t hat t hey wer e at

war wi t h t he Ar abs si nce Mombo, t he young son of

Ki sesa, Sul t an of Mazi mu, t he l ar ge i sl and near l y

opposi t e, had been beat en t o deat h by an Ar ab at

Uj i j i f or l ooki ng i nt o hi s har em. The Doct or ,

bar i ng hi s ar m, sai d he was not an Ar ab, but a whi t e

man f r om whom no bl ack man had ever suf f er ed i n-

j ur y. Thi s seemed t o pr oduce gr eat ef f ect , f or af t er

a l i t t l e gent l e per suasi on t he dr unken yout h and hi s

no l ess dr unken si r e wer e i nduced t o si t down and

t al k qui et l y. They f r equent l y r ef er r ed t o Mombo,

who was br ut al l y mur der ed: ' Yes, br ut al l y mur -

der ed, ' t hey excl ai med sever al t i mes i n t hei r own

t ongue, i l l ust r at i ng by f ai t hf ul pant omi me hpw t h^

unl ucky j r out h had ci i ^ d-

STANLEY. 231

" Li vi ngst one cont i nued t al ki ng t o t hem i n a mi l d,

pat er nal way, when t he ol d Sul t an suddenl y r ose up,

and began t o pace about i n an exci t ed manner , and

i n one of hi s per ambul at i ons del i ber at el y sl ashed hi s

l eg wi t h t he shar p bl ade of hi s spear , excl ai mi ng t hat

t he Ar abs had wounded hi m.

' I t was evi dent t hat t her e was l i t t l e needed t o

cause al l t he men i n t hat hol l ow t o begi n a most san-

gui nar y st r i f e. The gent l e and pat i ent bear i ng of

t he Doct or had mor e ef f ect t han anyt hi ng el se i n

maki ng al l f or bear bl oodshed, and i n t he end pr e-

vai l ed. The Sul t an and hi s son wer e bot h sent on

t hei r way r ej oi ci ng. '

To sum up t he r esul t s of t hi s ^ ' Tanganyi ka pi cni c"

t o t he t wo t r avel l er s. The Doct or had t aken car ef ul

obser vat i ons of t he whol e of t he l ake nor t h of Uj i j i ,

Page 136 of 182

had ascer t ai ned t hat t her e was no out l et nor t h, by

t he Lusi ze or any ot her r i ver , and had sat i sf i ed hi m-

sel f t hat her e al so wer e r egi ons wel l f i t t ed f or mi s -

si on st at i ons and f or t he r esi dence of whi t e men.

He had al so r ecover ed much of hi s bodi l y heal t h and

el ast i ci t y of spi r i t s, i n t hi s l ast f el l owshi p he was

dest i ned t o enj oy wi t h one of hi s own r ace.

The younger man had gai ned t hat most pr eci ous

of al l exper i ences — t o hi m who can pr of i t by i t —

dai l y i nt i mat e cont act wi t h a t hor oughl y nobl e and

pi ous l i f e; and hi s manl y admi r at i on had gr own i nt o

ent husi asm and her o- wor shi p, t i l l he can wr i t e de-

l i ber at el y : " You may t ake any poi nt i n Dr . Li vi ng-

232 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

st one^ s char act er , and anal yze i t car ef ul l y, and I wi l l

chal l enge any man t o f i nd a f aul t i n i t . " And he

had di scover ed Li vi ngst one' s secr et . " Hi s r el i g-

i on, " he wr i t es, " i s a const ant , ear nest , si ncer e pr ac -

t i ce. I t i s nei t her demonst r at i ve nor l oud, but mani -

f est s i t sel f i n a qui et , pr act i cal way, and i s al ways at

wor k. I n hi m r el i gi on exhi bi t s i t s l ovel i est f eat ur es ;

i t gover ns hi s conduct not onl y t owar d hi s ser vant s,

but t owar d t he nat i ves, t he bi got ed Mahomedans,

and al l who come i n cont act wi t h hi m. Wi t hout i t ,

Li vi ngst one, wi t h hi s ar dent t emper ament , hi s en-

t husi asm, hi s hi gh spi r i t and cour age, must have be-

come uncompani onabl e and a har d mast er . Rel i g-

i on has t amed hi m and made hi m a Chr i st i an gent l e-

man, t he most compani onabl e of men and i ndul gent

of mast er s. "

Above al l , St anl ey had r ecei ved and mast er ed a

nobl e l esson i n t he t r eat ment of t he nat i ves. He

had l ear nt t hat t he " sof t answer t ur net h away

wr at h" wi t h bl acks as wi t h whi t es; and t hat , wher -

ever t he bl i ght of t he sl ave- t r ade had not passed,

ki ndl i ness, honest y, and f ami l y af f ect i on wer e

scar cel y r ar er amongst bl ack t han amongst whi t e

f ol k. Havi ng r egar d t o St anl ey' s subsequent car eer

i n Af r i ca as Li vi ngst one' s successor * , i t i s di f f i cul t t o

exagger at e t he val ue of t hose f ew weeks.

CHAPTER XI V.

gr O UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY.

1871- 72.

Fr om t he 14t h t o t he 27t h of December t he t wo

t r avel l er s r est ed at Uj i j i . At meal s t hey sat on t he

bl ack bear ski n and gay Per si an car pet , t hei r backs t o

t he wai l , si ppi ng t hei r t ea, and chat t i ng on t he i nci -

dent s of ' ' t he pi cni c, " as t he Doct or per si st ed i n cal l -

i ng i t . The Doct or ' s spar e t i me was spent i n pr e-

par i ng despat ches and l et t er s f or home; St anl ey' s,

when not down wi t h f ever , i n pr epar i ng f or hi s

mar ch, and l ooki ng af t er hi s f r i end' s i nt er est s as he

under st ood t hem. Hi s soul was vexed by t he pr es-

Page 137 of 182

ence of t he mut i neer s, who had baf f l ed t he Doct or

and f or ced hi m t o t ur n back f r om Nyangwe. The

wor ds, " l i I coul d onl y have gone one mont h f ar t her

I coul d have sai d, ' My wor k i s done, ' " r ang i n hi s

ear s, and he f r et t ed at t he si ght of t he men swagger -

i ng r ound Uj i j i wi t h t he Doct or ' s Enf i el d r i f l es. At

l ast he coul d st and i t no l onger , and havi ng obt ai ned

t he Doct or ' s per mi ssi on, wi t h t he ai d of Susi , r ecov -

er ed t hem al l wi t hout comi ng t o bl ows. And now

came ser i ous debat es as t o t he f ut ur e. Ever y ar gu-

ment t he younger man coul d ^ hi nk of was ur ged t o

^34 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

shake t he Doct or ' s r esol ut i on. " Your f ami l y ar e

l ongi ng t o see you. " " I pr omi se t o car r y you ever y

f oot of t he way back t o t he coast . You shal l have

t he f i nest donkey i n Unyanyembe t o r i de. " ' ' Let t he

sour ces of t he Ni l e go. Come home and r est . Get

wel l , and t hen come back and f i ni sh what you have

t o do. "

" Mr . St anl ey, " r uns t he Jour nal , " used some ver y

st r ong ar gument s i n f avor of my goi ng home, r e-

cr ui t i ng my st r engt h, get t i ng ar t i f i ci al t eet h, and

t hen r et ur ni ng t o f i ni sh my t ask; but my j udgment

sai d, ' AH your f r i ends wi l l wi sh you t o make a com-

pl et e wor k of t he sour ces of t he Ni l e bef or e you

r et i r e. ' My daught er Agnes says, ' Much as I wi sh

you t o come home, I had r at her you f i ni shed your

wor k t o your sat i sf act i on t han r et ur n mer el y t o

gr at i f y me. ' Ri ght l y and nobl y sai d, my dar l i ng

Nanni e. Vani t y whi sper s pr et t y l oudl y, ' She' s a

chi p of t he ol d bl ock. My bl essi ngs on her and al l

t he r est . ' "

So t he ol d expl or er set hi s f ace as a f l i nt ; but as a

compr omi se agr eed t o go wi t h St anl ey t o Unyan-

yembe, wher e he had l ef t st or es and woul d f i nd l et -

t er s* Ther e he woul d wai t t i l l St anl ey coul d send

hi m up a band of f r ee men f r om Zanzi bar , wi t h

whom he coul d hope t o compl et e hi s wor k.

Li vi ngst one' s Di ar y. — " December 26t h. — Had

but a sor r y Chr i st mas yest er day. "

St anl ey. — " Chr i st mas came, and t he Doct or and I

TO UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY^ 235

had r esol ved t o keep t he bl essed and t i me- honor ed

day, as at home, wi t h a f east . The f ever had qui t e

gone f r om me t he ni ght bef or e, and on Chr i st mas

mor ni ng I was up and dr essed, and l ect ur i ng Fer aj j i

on t he i mpor t ance of t he day t o whi t e men, and t r y -

i ng t o i nst i l i nt o t he sl eek and pamper ed ani mal some

secr et s of t he cul i nar y ar t . But , al as, f or my weak -

ness! Fer aj j i spoi l t t he r oast , and our cust ar d was

bur ned. The di nner was a f ai l ur e. That t he f at -

br ai ned r ascal escaped a t hr ashi ng was due onl y t o

Page 138 of 182

my i nabi l i t y t o l i f t my hands, but my l ooks wer e

capabl e of anni hi l at i ng any one except Fer aj j i . He

onl y chuckl ed, and I bel i eve had t he subsequent

gr at i f i cat i on of eat i ng t he pi es, cust ar ds, and r oast

hi s car el essness had spoi l ed f or Eur opean pal at es. "

Next day t he pr epar at i ons wer e compl et ed. Li v-

i ngst one l ef t ever yt hi ng t o hi s young comr ade, i n-

cl udi ng t he r out e. The bol dness of t hat chosen, wi t h

no assi st ance but t he char t St anl ey had made of hi s

out war d j our ney, el i ci t ed at once hi s hear t y ap-

pr oval . I t s pl an was t o t ake boat t o t he sout h end of

Lake Tanganyi ka, and t hen t o push st r ai ght east

t hr ough a new count r y t o I mr er a on t he di r ect r out e

f r om Unyanyembe t o Uj i j i , t hus avoi di ng di st ur bed

di st r i ct s and t hose of exact i ng chi ef s, who had pl un-

der ed and hi nder ed St anl ey on hi s upwar d mar ch t o

Uj i j i .

They had a pr osper ous and mer r y voyage of seven

days, i n t wo canoes, t he f i r st car r yi ng Li vi ngst one

236 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

and hi s f i ve ser vant s ( who i n r ewar d f or t hei r f ai t h-

f ul ness wer e t aken as passenger s and exempt ed f r om

car r yi ng anyt hi ng on t he mar ch) , wi t h t he Uni on

Jack at t he st er n, t he second, St anl ey, under t he

St ar s and St r i pes. On Januar y 7t h t hey l ef t t he

l ake, and on t he i 6t h r eached I mr er a, l eavi ng i t

agai n on t he i 8t h, and ar r i vi ng at Unyanyembe on

Febr uar y i 8t h.

The Doct or , t hough a guest , mar ched t he whol e

way, decl i ni ng t he ' ' f i nest donkey i n Unyan, " whi ch

had been t hought f ul l y pr ovi ded f or hi m. Ther e

was, as usual , much wi l d, r ough wor k i n j ungl e and

f or est , but wi t h gl i mpses of bet t er t hi ngs, such as

had cheer ed hi m i n so many unt r odden par t s of Cen-

t r al Af r i ca.

Thus i n hi s Jour nal : " Januar y 10t h. — Acr oss a

ver y l ovel y gr een count r y of open f or est , al l f r esh,

l i ke an Engl i sh gent l eman' s par k. Game pl ent i f ul .

Tr ee- cover ed mount ai ns r i ght and l ef t , and much

br own haemat i t e on t he l evel s. " " Januar y 16t h. — A

ver y col d ni ght , af t er l ong and heavy r ai n. Our

camp was among br ackens. Went E. and by S.

al ong t he hi gh l and, and t hen saw a vi l l age i n a deep

val l ey, t o whi ch we descended. Then up anot her

r i dge t o a val l ey, and al ong t o a vi l l age wel l cul t i -

vat ed. Up agai n at l east 700 f eet , and down t o

Mer er as vi l l age, hi d i n a mount ai nous nook, about

one hundr ed and f or t y hut s wi t h door s on one si de.

The val l eys pr esent a l ovel y scene of i ndust r y, al l t he

TO UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY. 237

peopl e bei ng eager l y engaged i n weedi ng and hoe-

i ng, t o t ake advant age of t he abundant r ai ns whi ch

Page 139 of 182

have dr enched us ever y af t er noon. "

Thi s f i r st t en days' mar ch acr oss t he unexpl or ed

count r y pr oved a sever e t r i al t o St anl ey, out of

whi ch he came wi t h f l yi ng col or s. " Agai nst t he col -

l ect i ve counsel of t he gui des I have per si st ed i n bei ng

gui ded onl y by t he compass and my char t . They

st r enuousl y st r ove t o i nduce me t o al t er my cour se,

and t he vet er ans asked i f I wer e det er mi ned t o ki l l

t hem wi t h f ami ne, as t he r oad was N. E. ; but I pr e-

f er r ed put t i ng my t r ust i n t he compass. No sun

shone on us as we t hr eaded our way t hr ough t he

pr i meval f or est . A t hi ck haze cover ed t he f or est s;

r ai n of t en pel t ed us; t he f i r mament was an un-

f at homabl e dept h of gr ay vapor . The Doct or had

per f ect conf i dence i n me, and I hel d on my way. "

On t hei r ar r i val at I mr er a he wr i t es : ' ' By noon

we wer e i n our ol d camp. The nat i ves gat her ed

r ound, br i ngi ng suppl i es of f ood, and t o congr at u-

l at e us on havi ng gone t o Uj i j i and back, but i t was

l ong bef or e t he l ast of t he expedi t i on ar r i ved. The

Doct or ' s f eet wer e ver y sor e and bl eedi ng f r om t he

wear y mar ch. Hi s shoes wer e i n a ver y wor n- out

st at e, and he had so cut and sl ashed t hem t o ease hi s

bl i st er ed f eet t hat any man of our f or ce woul d have

r ef used t hem as a gi f t , no mat t er how ambi t i ous he

mi ght be t o encase hi s f eet a l a Umsi mga. "

^' Januar y i gt h. — Mpokwa' s deser t ed vi l l age. The

238 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Doct or ' s f eet wer e ver y much chaf ed and sor e by t he

mar chi ng. He had wal ked on f oot al l t he way,

t hough he owned a donkey; whi l e I , consi der abl y t o

my shame be i t sai d, had r i dden occasi onal l y t o hus-

band my st r engt h, t hat I mi ght be abl e t o hunt af t er

ar r i val at camp. " I n t hi s i mpor t ant pur sui t , f or t he

f or ce depended on hi m f or meat , St anl ey f ound new

gr ound f or hi s her o- wor shi p. He hunt ed wi t h t he

Doct or ' s Rei l l y r i f l e. He was of t en successf ul , and

" when I r et ur ned t o camp wi t h meat I r ecei ved t he

congr at ul at i ons of t he Doct or , whi ch I val ued above

al l ot her s, as he knew f r om l ong exper i ence what

shoot i ng was. "

On Januar y 20t h t hey hal t ed, and St anl ey st al ked

and hi t a gi r af f e, whi ch went of f not wi t hst andi ng.

* * The Doct or , who knew how t o consol e an ar dent

young hunt er , at t r i but ed my non- success t o shoot i ng

wi t h l eaden bal l s, whi ch wer e t oo sof t t o penet r at e

t he t hi ck hi de of t he gi r af f e, and advi sed me t o mel t

my zi nc cant eens, wi t h whi ch t o har den t he l ead. I t

was not t he f i r st t i me I had cause t o t hank t he Doc -

t or . None knew so wel l how t o consol e one f or bad

l uck; how t o el evat e one i n hi s own mi nd. I f I

ki l l ed a zebr a, di d not hi s f r i end Oswel l — t he Sout h

Af r i can hunt er — and hi msel f l ong ago come t o t he

concl usi on t hat zebr a' s was t he f i nest meat i n Af r i ca ?

I f I shot a buf f al o, she was sur e t o be t he best of her

ki nd, and her hor ns wor t h car r yi ng home as speci -

Page 140 of 182

mens, and was she not f at ? I f I r et ur ned wi t hout

TO UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY. 239

anyt hi ng, t he game was ver y wi l d, or t he peopl e had

made a noi se and t he game had been f r i ght ened, and

who coul d st al k ani mal s al r eady al ar med? I ndeed,

he was a most consi der at e compani on, and knowi ng

hi m t o be l i t er al l y t r ut hf ul , I was pr oud of hi s pr ai se

when successf ul , and when I f ai l ed was easi l y con-

sol ed. " Thr ee days l at er he ki l l ed a gi r af f e wi t h t he

zi nc bul l et . I n t he eveni ng of t he same day t he

Doct or was empl oyed f r om t en t i l l mi dni ght i n t ak-

i ng obser vat i ons f r om t he St ar Canopus, whi ch

showed Mpokwa t o be i n S. l at i t ude 6° i 8' 40" , di f -

f er i ng t hr ee mi l es onl y f r om t he r esul t St anl ey had

ar r i ved at on hi s upwar d j our ney by dead r eckoni ng.

" Januar y 2yt h. — We set out f or Mi ssonghi .

About hal f way I saw t he head of t he expedi t i on on

t he r un, and my donkey began t o l ash behi nd wi t h

hi s heel s. I n a second I was awar e of t he cause by

a cl oud of bees buzzi ng r ound my head, t hr ee or f our

of whi ch set t l ed on my f ace and st ung me f r i ght -

f ul l y. We r aced madl y f or hal f a mi l e, behavi ng as

wi l dl y as t he poor , best ung ani mal s. As t hi s was

an unusual l y l ong mar ch, I doubt ed i f t he Doct or

coul d make i t , as hi s f eet wer e so sor e, so I sent

f our men back wi t h t he l i t t er ; but t he st out ol d her o

r ef used t o be car r i ed, and wal ked al l t he way t o

camp, ei ght een mi l es. He had been st ung dr ead-

f ul l y i n t he head and f ace; t he bees had set t l ed i n

handf ul s i n hi s hai r ; but , af t er a cup of war m t ea

and some f ood, he was as cheer f ul as i f he had never

240 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t r avel ed a mi l e. . . . Under t hat way- wor n ex-

t er i or l ay a f und of hi gh spi r i t s and i nexhaust i bl e

humor ; t hat r ugged f r ame encl osed a young and

most excel l ent soul . Ever y day I hear d i nnumer abl e

j okes and pl easant anecdot es, hunt i ng st or i es i n

whi ch hi s f r i ends, Oswel l , W^ ebb, Var don, and Gor -

don Gummi ng, wer e al most al ways t he chi ef act or s.

At f i r st I was not sur e but t hi s j ovi al i t y, humor , and

abundant ani mal spi r i t s wer e t he r esul t of j oyous

hyst er i a, but as I f ound t hey cont i nued whi l e I was

wi t h hi m, I was obl i ged t o t hi nk t hem nat ur al . "

On Januar y 3 1 st t hey met a car avan f r om Unyan-

yembe, and St anl ey l ear nt t hat Shaw, whom he had

l ef t t her e, was dead. He was i l l of f ever hi msel f ,

and br oke out : " * Ah, Doct or ! t her e ar e t wo of us

out of t hr ee gone; I shal l be t he t hi r d i f t hi s f ever

l ast s. ' * 0h, no, not at al l , ' he r epl i ed. * I f you

woul d have di ed f r om f ever , you woul d have di ed at

Uj i j i , when you had t hat sever e at t ack of r emi t t ent

Don' t t hi nk of i t . Your f ever now i s onl y t he r esul t

of exposur e t o wet . I never t r avel dur i ng t he wet

season. Thi s t i me I have t r avel ed because I di d not

wi sh t o det ai n you at Uj i j i . ' Besi des, t he Doct or

Page 141 of 182

added, he had st or es of j el l i es and pot t ed soup, f i sh,

ham, wai t i ng at Unyanyembe, whi ch he woul d shar e

wi t h me, wher eupon I was gr eat l y cheer ed. "

* ^ Febr uar y 6t h. — Mar chi ng t hr ough Ukamba f or -

est , t he Doct or sai d he coul d never pass t hr ough an

Af r i can f or est , wi t h i t s sol emn ser eni t y and st i l l ness,

TO UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY. 241

wi t hout wi shi ng t o be bur i ed qui et l y under t he dead

l eaves. I n Engl and t her e was no el bow- r oom, and

gr aves wer e of t en desecr at ed, and ever si nce he had

bur i ed hi s wi f e i n t he woods at Shupanga, he had

si ghed f or such a gr ave, wher e hi s bones woul d get

t he r est t hey needed. "

And so t hey went on t o Unyanyembe, t he Doct or

st ur di l y mar chi ng al l t he way, but ot her wi se gi vi ng

i n t o bei ng t he pet t ed guest ; t aki ng no t hought f or

t he mor r ow, but l eavi ng f ood, r out e, and di sci pl i ne

on t he mar ch t o hi s young f r i end, whi l e he j ust t ook

hi s obser vat i ons, and made shor t ent r i es i n hi s bi g

Let t s' s di ar y. On Febr uar y 14t h t hey mar ched i nt o

Unyanyembe wi t h f l ags f l yi ng and guns f i r i ng.

To hi s gr eat annoyance Li vi ngst one f ound t hat

hi s st or es had been br oken i nt o and pl under ed, so

t hat he coul d not r egal e hi s compani on upon any-

t hi ng but cr acker s and har d cheese. What t he

Ar abs had l ef t had been dest r oyed by whi t e ant s,

whi ch had eat en even t he st ocks of t wo val uabl e

r i f l es, and t he l ocks and bar r el s had become usel ess

f r om negl ect and r ust . St anl ey' s st or er oom had

al so been br oken i nt o and pl under ed, wi t h t he con-

ni vance of , i f not by or der of , t he Gover nor , who

woul d not f ace t he out r aged t r avel l er s. However ,

St anl ey had st i l l suf f i ci ent st or es t o set up hi s com-

pani on.

Li vi ngst one' s Jour nal . — ^ ^ Febr uar y i St h. — My

l osses by t he Bani an- empl oyed sl aves ar e mor e t han

242 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

made up by Mr . St anl ey. I ndeed, I am qui t e set up,

and as soon as he can send me men, not sl aves, f r om

t he coast , I go t o my wor k wi t h a f ai r pr ospect of

f i ni shi ng i t . "

" Febr uar y 20t h. — To my gr eat j oy, I got f our

f l annel shi r t s f r om Agnes, and I was del i ght ed t o

f i nd t hat t wo pai r s of f i ne Engl i sh boot s had most

consi der at el y been sent by my ki nd f r i end Mr .

Wal l er . "

' ' Febr uar y 22d. — Ser vi ce t hi s mor ni ng, and

t hanked God f or saf et y t hus f ar . Got a packet of

l et t er s f r om an Ar ab. " I n answer i ng t hese l et t er s,

and wr i t i ng despat ches t o Lor ds Gr anvi l l e, Cl ar en-

Page 142 of 182

don, and Si r R. Mur chi son, t he days wer e spent .

To Mr . Gor den Bennet t al so he wr ot e a gr at ef ul ac -

knowl edgment f or t i mel y succor .

' ' Mar ch 14t h. — Mr . St anl ey l eaves. I commi t t o

hi s car e my Jour nal , seal ed wi t h f i ve seal s; t he i m-

pr essi ons ar e t hose of an Amer i can gol d coi n, anna,

and hal f - anna, and cake of pai nt wi t h r oyal ar ms,

posi t i vel y not t o be opened. "

St anl ey. — ' ' At dawn we wer e up. The bal es and

baggage wer e t aken out si de, and t he men pr epar ed

t hemsel ves f or t hei r f i r st mar ch homewar d. We

had a sad br eakf ast t oget her . I coul dn' t eat , my

hear t was t oo f ul l ; nor di d my compani on seem t o

have any appet i t e. We f ound somet hi ng t o do

whi ch kept us t oget her . At ei ght I was not gone,

anc} I h^ cj t hought t o have been of f at f i ve A. M»

TO UNYANYEAI BE WI TH STANLEY. 243

' Doct or , r i l l eave t wo of my men. Maybe you' ve

f or got t en somet hi ng i n t he hur r y. I ' l l hal t a day at

Tar a f or your l ast wor d and your l ast wi sh. Now,

we must par t . Ther e' s no hel p f or i t . Good- by. '

" ' Oh, I ' m comi ng wi t h you a l i t t l e way. I must

see you on t he r oad. '

" Thank you. Now, my men, home ! Ki r angoze,

l i f t t he f l ag. Mar ch ! '

" On t he wal k Li vi ngst one once mor e t ol d hi s

pl ans, and i t was set t l ed t hat hi s men shoul d be hi r ed

f or t wo year s f r om ar r i val at Unyanyembe, t o gi ve

ampl e mar gi n f or t he compl et i on of hi s wor k. *

* Dr . Li vi ngst one' s l ast act bef or e Mr . St anl ey l ef t hi m was

t o wr i t e hi s l et t er s — t went y f or Gr eat Br i t ai n, si x f or Bombay,

t wo f or New Yor k, and one f or Zanzi bar . The t wo f or New-

Yor k wer e f or Mr . Bennet t of t he New Yor k Her al d, by

whom St anl ey had been sent t o Af r i ca.

Mr . St anl ey has f r eel y unf ol ded t o us t he bi t t er ness of hi s

hear t i n par t i ng f r om Li vi ngst one. " My days seem t o have

been spent i n an El ysi an f i el d; ot her wi se, why shoul d I so

keenl y r egr et t he mear appr oach of t he par t i ng hour ? Havs

I not been bat t er ed by successi ve f ever s, pr ost r at e wi t h agony

day af t er day l at el y? Have I not r aved and st or med i n mad-

ness? Have I not cl enched my f i st s i n f ur y, and f ought wi t h

t he wi l d st r engt h of despai r when i n del i r i um? Yet , I r egr et

t o sur r ender t he pl easur e I have f el t i n t hi s man' s soci et y,

t hough so dear l y pur chased. . . . Mar ch 14t h. — We had a

sad br eakf ast t oget her . I coul d not eat , my hear t was t oo

f ul l ; nei t her di d my compani on seem t o have an appet i t e. We

f ound somet hi ng t o do whi ch kept us l onger t oget her . At

ei ght o' cl ock I was not gone, and I had t hought t o have been

of f at f i ve A. M. . . . We wal ked si de by si de; t he men

l i f t ed t hei r voi ces i n a song. I t ook l ong l ocks at Li vi ngst one,

%o i mpr ess hi s f eat ur es t hor oughl y on my ni emor y. "

Page 143 of 182

S44: THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" ' Now, my dear Doct or , t he best f r i ends must

par t . You have come f ar enough. '

" ' Wel l , I wi l l say t hi s t o you. You have done

what f ew men coul d do ; f ar bet t er t han some gr eat

t r avel l er s I know. And I am gr at ef ul t o you f or

what you have done f or me. God gui de you saf e

home, and bl ess you, my f r i end. '

" ' And may God br i ng you saf e back t o us al l , my

dear f r i end. Far ewel l . '

" Tar ewel L'

" We wr ung each ot her ' s hands, and I had t o t ear

mysel f away bef or e I was unmanned. But Susi ,

and Chumah, and Hamaydah, t he Doct or ' s f ai t hf ul

f el l ows, t hey must al l shake and ki ss my hands ; be-

f or e I coul d qui t e t ur n away I bet r ayed mysel f . "

St anl ey r esol ut el y t ur ned hi s f ace east war d, but

now and t hen woul d t ake a l ook r ound at t he de-

ser t ed f i gur e of an ol d man i n gr ay cl ot hes, who wi t h

bended head and sl ow st eps was r et ur ni ng t o hi s sol i -

t ude. A dr op i n t he pat h came whi ch woul d hi de

hi m f r om vi ew. " I t ook one mor e l ook at hi m. He

was st andi ng near t he gat e of Kwi haha, wi t h hi s

ser vant s near hi m. I waved a handker chi ef t o hi m,

and he r esponded by l i f t i ng hi s cap. "

Thi s was Li vi ngst one' s l ast si ght of a whi t e man.

I t i s wel l t hat we have so vi vi d a pi ct ur e of t he bent

f i gur e i n gr ay st andi ng at t he gat e of Kwi haha. The

ol d wor l d has bor ne on her sur f ace f ew nobl er or

mor e pat het i c f i gur es si nce t i me began. On t he 17t h

TO UNYANYE: ^ >t BE WI TH STANLEY. 243

Susi and Hamaydah r eached St anl ey at t he ap-

poi nt ed hal t , wi t h one l et t er f or Si r Thomas i NI acl ear

and anot her f or hi msel f .

The l at t er r an: " Kwi haha, Mar ch 15, 1872. —

Dear St anl ey — I f you can t el egr aph, on your ar r i val

i n London, be par t i cul ar , pl ease, t o say how Si r Rod-

er i ck i s. You put t he mat t er exact l y yest er day,

when you sai d I w^ as ' not yet sat i sf i ed about t he

sour ces, but , as soon as I shal l be, I shal l r et ur n and

gi ve sat i sf act or y r easons f i t f or ot her peopl e. ' Thi s

i s j ust as i t st ands. I wi sh I coul d gi ve you a bet t er

wor d t han t he Scot ch one ' t o put a st out hear t t o a

st ey br ae, ' but you wi l l do t hat , and I am t hankf ul

t hat bef or e goi ng aw^ ay t he f ever had changed i nt o

t he i nt er mi t t ent , or saf e f or m. I woul d not have l et

you go but wi t h gr eat concer n had you st i l l been

t r oubl ed wi t h t he cont i nued t ype. I f eel comf or t -

abl e i n commendi ng you t o t he guar di anshi p of t he

good Lor d and Fat her of al l . Your s gr at ef ul l y,

Page 144 of 182

" Davi d Li vi ngst one. ' "

" P. 5* . — - Mar ch i 6t h. — I have wr i t t en a not e t hi s

mor ni ng t o Mr . Mur r ay, t he publ i sher , t o hel p you

i f necessar y i n sendi ng t he Jour nal by book post or

ot her wi se t o Agnes. I f you cal l on hi m, you wi l l

f i nd hi m a f r ank gent l eman. A pl easant j our ney t o

you. D. L,

" To Henr y M. St anl ey, Esq. ,

" Wher ever he may be f ound. "

246 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

' ' Mar ch l yt h. — Sent t he men af t er Mr . St anl ey,

and t wo mor e t o br i ng back hi s l ast wor ds, i f any. "

' ' Mar ch i gt h. — My bi r t hday. My Jesus, my

Ki ng, my Li f e, my Al l ! I agai n dedi cat e my whol e

soul t o Thee. Accept me. And gr ant , oh Gr aci ous

Fat her , t hat er e t hi s year i s gone, I may f i ni sh my

wor k. I n Jesus' name I ask i t . Amen. "

" Mar ch 2^ t h. — Susi br ought l et t er f r om Mr .

St anl ey. He had a l i t t l e f ever , but I hope wi l l go

on saf el y. "

When St anl ey r eached Engl and, i t was not t o be

over whel med wi t h gr at i t ude. At f i r st t he Royal

Geogr aphi cal Soci et y r ecei ved hi m col dl y. I nst ead

of hi s f i ndi ng Li vi ngst one, i t was sur mi sed t hat Li v -

i ngst one had f ound hi m. St r ange t hi ngs wer e sai d

of hi m at t he Br i t i sh Associ at i on at Br i ght on. The

dai l y pr ess act ual l y chal l enged hi s t r ut hf ul ness;

some of t he newspaper s af f ect ed t o t r eat hi s whol e

st or y as a myt h. St anl ey says f r ankl y t hat t hi s r e-

cept i on gave a t one of bi t t er ness t o hi s book — " How

I Found Li vi ngst one" — whi ch i t woul d not have had

i f he had under st ood t he r eal st at e of t hi ngs. But

t he hear t of t he nat i on was sound; t he peopl e be-

l i eved i n St anl ey and appr eci at ed hi s ser vi ce. At

l ast t he mi st s cl ear ed away, and Engl and acknowl -

edged i t s debt t o t he Amer i can. The Geogr aphi cal

Soci et y gave hi m t he r i ght hand of f el l owshi p " wi t h

a war mt h and gener osi t y never t o be f or got t en. "

TO UNYANYEMBE WI TH STANLEY. 247

The pr esi dent apol ogi zed f or t he wor ds of suspi ci on

he had pr evi ousl y used. Her Maj est y t he Queen

pr esent ed St anl ey wi t h a speci al t oken of her r egar d.

Unhappi l y, i n t he ear l i er st ages of t he af f ai r , wounds

had been i nf l i ct ed whi ch ar e not l i kel y ever t o be

whol l y heal ed. Wor ds wer e spoken on bot h si des

whi ch cannot be r ecal l ed. But t he gr eat f act r e-

mai ns, and wi l l be wr i t t en on t he page of hi st or y,

t hat St anl ey di d a nobl e ser vi ce t o Li vi ngst one, ear n-

i ng t her eby t he gr at i t ude of Engl and and of t he ci v -

i l i zed wor l d.

Page 145 of 182

CHAPTER XV.

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE.

1872.

The eveni ng of l i f e doses i n sor r owf ul l y ( as men

count sor r ow) on t he l onel y ol d expl or er f r om t he

day of St anl ey' s mar ch f or t he coast . Fi ve wear y

mont hs he wai t ed at Unyanyembe bef or e t he ar r i val

of t he escor t whom St anl ey enl i st ed and sent up

f r om Zanzi bar . But , t hough sor el y t r i ed by t he de-

l ay, al l t he wor k whi ch coul d be done on a hal t went

on as usual . No cor r espondence or obser vat i ons

wer e negl ect ed whi ch coul d f or war d any br anch of

hi s wor k, sci ent i f i c, phi l ant hr opi cal , or r el i gi ous, and

ever y avai l abl e r esour ce, such as hi s f ew books

af f or ded, used t o t he ut most . *

* When St anl ey l ef t Li vi ngst one at Unj ^ anyembe t her e was

not hi ng f or t he l at t er but t o wai t t her e unt i l t he men shoul d

come t o hi m who wer e t o be sent up f r om Zanzi bar . St anl ey

l ef t on t he 14t h Mar ch ; Li vi ngst one cal cul at ed t hat he woul d

r each Zanzi bar on t he i st May, t hat hi s men woul d be r eady

t o st ar t about t he 22d May, and t hat t hey ought t o ar r i ve at

Unyanyembe on t he l ot h or 15t h Jul y. I n r eal i t y, St anl ey di d

not r each Bagamoi o t i l l t he 6t h May. The men wer e sent

of l f about t he 25t h, and t hey r eached Unyanyembe about t he

9t h August . A mont h mor e t han had been count ed on had

t o be spent at Unyanyembe, and t hi s del ay was al l t he mor e

248

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 249

Jour nal . — ' ' Mar ch i gt h. — Ver y r ai ny. Am r ead-

i ng Mungo Par k' s ' Tr avel s' ; t hey l ook so t r ut hf ul . "

" Apr i l 1st . — Read Young' s ' Sear ch af t er Li vi ng-

st one' ; t hankf ul f or many ki nd wor ds about me. He

wr i t es l i ke a gent l eman. "

" Apr i l 2d. — Maki ng a soundi ng l i ne out of l i nt

l ef t by St anl ey. Whydah bi r ds bui l di ng t hei r nest s.

The cock bi r d br i ngs f i ne gr ass and seed st al ks. He

t akes t he end i nsi de t he nest and pul l s i t al l i n, save

t he ear . The hen keeps i nsi de, const ant l y ar r angi ng

t he gr ass wi t h al l her mi ght , somet i mes maki ng t he

whol e nest move by her ef f or t s. Feat her s ar e l ai d

i n af t er t he gr ass. "

" Apr i l 4t h. — Copyi ng ast r onomi cal obser vat i ons

f or Si r T. Macl ean"

" Apr i l i ^ t h. — Hung up soundi ng l i ne on pol es

one f at hom apar t , and t ar r ed i t . "

News came now of t he dest r uct i on by nat i ves of

t he par t y of Ar abs i n Manyuema whom he was

Page 146 of 182

t r yi ng because i t br ought t he t r avel l er near er t o t he r ai ny -

season.

The i nt ent i on of Dr . Li vi ngst one, when t he men shoul d

come, was t o st r i ke sout h by Uf i pa, go r ound Tanganyi ka,

t hen cr oss t he Chambeze, and bear away al ong t he sout her n

shor e of Bangweol o, st r ai ght west t o t he anci ent f ount ai ns;

f r om t hem i n ei ght days t o Kat anga copper mi nes; f r om Ka-

t anga, i n t en days, nor t heast t o t he gr eat under gr ound excava-

t i ons, and back agai n t o Kat anga, f r om whi ch n. n. w. t wel ve

days t o t he head of Lake Li ncol n. " Ther e I hope devout l y, "

he wr i t es t o hi s daught er , " t o t hank t he Lor d of al l , and t ur n

my f ace al ong Lake Kamol ondo, and over Lual aba, Tangan-

yi ka, Uj i j i , and home. "

250 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

near l y j oi ni ng a year bef or e. " Apr i l i 6t h. — To go

wi t h t hem t o Lomame, as my sl aves wer e wi l l i ng t o

do, was so r epugnant t o me t hat I pr ef er r ed t o r e-

^ t ur n t hat wear y 600 mi l es t o Uj i j i . I mour ned over

' bei ng baf f l ed and t hwar t ed al l t he way, but t r i ed t o

bel i eve i t was al l f or t he best . Thi s news showed

t hat , had I gone, I coul d not have escaped t he

Bakuss spear s, f or had I gone I coul d not have r un

l i ke t he r out ed f ugi t i ves. "

" May 1st . — Bought a cow f or el even dot i s of

Mer i kano; she gi ves mi l k, and t hi s makes me i nde-

pendent . Her dman of Baganda f r om whom I

bought her sai d, ' I go of f t o pr ay. ' He has been

t aught by Ar abs, and i s t he f i r st pr osel yt e t hey have

gai ned. Baker t hi nks t he f i r st want of Af r i cans i s

t o t each t hem t o want . I nt er est i ng, seei ng t hat he

was bor ed al most t o deat h by Kamr asi want i ng

ever yt hi ng he had! . . . Fi ni shed a l et t er t o

t he New Yor k Her al d, t o el i ci t Amer i can zeal t o

st op t he East Coast sl ave- t r ade. I pr ay f or a bl ess-

i ng on i t f r om t he Al l - Gr aci ous. " The l ast sent ence

of t hi s l et t er i s i nscr i bed on hi s t omb i n West mi n-

st er Abbey. ' ' Al l I can add i n my l onel i ness, " i t

r uns, " i s, may Heaven' s r i ch bl essi ngs come down on

ever y one, Amer i can, Engl i sh, or Tur k, who wi l l

hel p t o heal t he open sor e of t he wor l d. "

" May 4t h. — Many pal aver s about Mi r ambo' s

deat h. Ar abs say he i s a br ave man, and t he war i s

not near i t s end. Some nor t her n nat i ves cal l ed

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 251

Bagoze get a keg of powder and a pi ece of dot h, go

and at t ack a vi l l age, wai t f or a mont h or so eat i ng

t he f ood of t he capt ur ed pl ace, and come back f or

st or es agai n. Thus t he war goes on. Pr epar ed

t r aci ng paper t o dr aw map f or Si r Thomas Macl ean

Lewal e i nvi t es me t o a f east . "

" Maj nt h. — A ser pent of dar k ol i ve col or f ound

dead at my door , ki l l ed by a cat . Puss appr oaches

Page 147 of 182

ver y caut i ousl y and st r i kes her cl aw i nt o t he head

wi t h a bl ow del i ver ed as qui ck as l i ght ni ng; t hen

hol ds t he head down wi t h bot h paws, heedl ess of t he

wr i ggl i ng mass of coi l s behi nd i t ; she t hen bi t es t he

neck and l eaves i t , l ooki ng at t he di sf i gur ed head as

i f she knew t hat t her e had l ai n t he hi dden power of

mi schi ef . She seems t o possess a l i t t l e of t he nat ur e

of t he I chneumon, whi ch was sacr ed i n Egypt f r om

i t s dest r oyi ng ser pent s. The ser pent i s i n pur sui t of

mi ce when ki l l ed by puss. "

* ' May l yt h. — Wai t i ng wear i l y. Ai l i ng. Maki ng

cheeses f or t he j our ney ; good, but sour r at her , as t he

mi l k soon t ur ns i n t hi s cl i mat e, and we don' t use r en-

net , but l et t he mi l k coagul at e of i t sel f ; and i t does

t hi cken i n hal f a day. "

' ' May 22, d. — A f ami l y of t en Whydah bi r ds come

t o t he pomegr anat e t r ees i n our yar d. The ei ght

young ones ar e f ed by t he dam as young pi geons ar e.

The f ood i s br ought up f r om t he cr ops wi t hout t he

bowi ng and bendi ng of t he pi geon. They chi r r up

br i skl y f or f ood. The dam gi ves most , whi l e t he

252 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

r ed- br east ed cock gi ves one or t wo and t hen knocks

t he r est away. "

A passage i n Speke t hat t he women i n Kasenge,

an i sl and i n Tanganyi ka, sol d t hei r chi l dr en, dr aws

a l ong comment f r om t he Doct or , i n whi ch he ent er s

on t he mi ssi onar y t opi c, and dr aws a pi ct ur e of what

act i ve men coul d do i n t hi s r egi on. " I n cr ossi ng

Tanganyi ka t hr ee t i mes I was det ai ned on Kasenge

about t en weeks i n al l . On each occasi on Ar ab t r ad-

er s wer e pr esenL, al l eager t o buy sl aves, but none

wer e of f er ed, and t hey assur ed me t hey had never

seen t he habi t al l eged t o exi st by Speke. I woul d

say t o mi ssi onar i es, ' Come on, br et hr en, t o t he r eal

heat hen. You have no i dea how br ave you ar e t i l l

you t r y. Leavi ng t he coast t r i bes and devot i ng

your sel ves hear t i l y t o t he savages, as t hey ar e cal l ed,

you wi l l f i nd, wi t h some dr awbacks and wi ckedness,

a ver y gr eat deal t o admi r e and l ove. Many st at e-

ment s made about t hem r equi r e conf i r mat i on. You

wi l l never see women sel l i ng t hei r i nf ant s. The

Ar abs never di d, nor have L' " And af t er goi ng

i nt o pr act i cal det ai l s : ' ' I t woul d be a sor t of Robi n- j

son Cr usoe l i f e, but wi t h abundant mat er i al s f or sur -

r oundi ng onesel f wi t h comf or t s and i mpr ovi ng t he

i mpr ovabl e amongst t he nat i ves. Cl ot hi ng woul d

r equi r e but smal l expense. Four sui t s of st r ong

t weed ser ved me comf or t abl y f or f i ve year s. "

May 2yt h. — Af t er not i ci ng t he ar r i val of anot her

pai r of V\ ^ hydahs wi t h br ood, i n whi ch t he cock bi r d

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 253

Page 148 of 182

f eeds al l t he br ood: " The young ones l i f t up a

f eat her as a chi l d woul d a dol l , and i nvi t e ot her s t o

do t he same, i n pl ay. So, t oo, wi t h anot her pai r ;

t he cock ski ps f r om si de t o si de wi t h a f eat her i n hi s

bi l l , and t he hen i s pl eased. Nat ur e i s f ul l of en-

j oyment . . . . Cock Whydah bi r d di ed i n t he

ni ght . The br ood came and chi r r uped t o i t f or f ood,

and t r i ed t o make i t f eed t hem, as i f not knowi ng

deat h. "

Ther e ar e t r oubl es even amongst t he f ew f ai t hf ul

ser vant s l ef t wi t h hi m.

' ' May 2gt h. — Hal i mah r an away i n a quar r el wi t h

Nt aoeka. I went over t o Sul t an bi n Al i , and sent a

not e af t er her , but she came back of her own accor d

and onl y want ed me t o come out si de and t el l her t o

ent er . I di d so, and added, ' You must not quar r el

agai n. ' She has been ext r emel y good ever si nce I

got her at Kat ombo. I never had t o r epr ove her .

She i s al ways ver y at t ent i ve and cl ever , and never

st eal s, nor woul d she al l ow her husband t o st eaL

She i s t he best spoke i n t he wheel ; t hi s, her onl y

escapade, i s easi l y f or gi ven, and I gave her a war m

cl ot h f or t he col d by way of assur i ng her t hat I f eel

no gr udge agai nst her . "

Wi t hi n a f ew days Nt aoeka had been t aken i n

hand wi t h equal success. * ' When Nt aoeka chose t o

f ol l ow us r at her t han go t o t he coast , I di d not l i ke

t o have a f i ne- l ooki ng woman among us unat t ached,

and pr oposed t hat she shoul d mar r y one of my t hr ee

254 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

wor t hi es, Chumah, Gar di ner , or Mabr uki , but she

smi l ed at t he i dea. Chumah was evi dent l y t oo l azy

ever t o get a wi f e. The ot her t wo wer e cont empt i bl e

i n appear ance, and she has a good pr esence and i s

buxom. Chumah pr omi sed r ef or m. He had been

l azy, he admi t t ed, because he had no wi f e, and on my

speaki ng t o her agai n she consent ed. . . . I

have not i ced her ever si nce wor ki ng har d f r om

mor ni ng t o ni ght , t he f i r st up i n t he mor ni ng, mak -

i ng f i r e, hot wat er , and wood, sweepi ng, cooki ng. ' '

Occasi onal l y hi s Jour nal gi ves a gl eam of humor :

^' June i 8t h. — The Pt ol emai c map def i nes peopl e ac-

cor di ng t o t hei r f ood — t he El ephant ophagi , t he

St r ut hi ophagi , t he I cht hi ophagi , and t he Ant hr o-

pophagi . I f we f ol l owed t he same sor t of cl assi f i ca-

t i on, our def i ni t i on woul d be by t he dr i nk, t hus : t he

t r i be of st out - guzzl er s, t he r oar i ng pot heen- f uddl er s,

t he whi skey- f i shoi d- dr i nker s, t he vi n- or di nai r e bi b-

ber s, t he l ager - beer - swi l l er s, and an out l yi ng t r i be

of t he br andy cockt ai l per suasi on. "

' ' June i gt h. — Whydahs, t hough f ul l - f l edged, st i l l

gl adl y t ake a f eed f r om t hei r dam, put t i ng down t he

br east t o t he gr ound, cocki ng up t he bi l l , and chi r -

r upi ng i n t he most engagi ng way t hey know. She

gi ves t hem a l i t t l e, but admi ni st er s a f r i endl y shove,

Page 149 of 182

t oo. They al l pi ck up f eat her s and gr ass, and hop

f r om si de t o si de of t hei r mat er , as i f sayi ng, ' Come,

l et us pl ay at maki ng l i t t l e homes. ' The w^ agt ai l has

shaken her young qui t e of f , and has a new nest

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 255

She war bl es pr et t i l y, ver y much l i ke a canar y, and i s

ver y act i ve i n cat chi ng f l i es, but eat s cr umbs and

br ead and mi l k t oo. Sun bi r ds vi si t t he pomegr an-

at e f l ower s, and eat i nsect s t her ei n t oo, as wel l as

nect ar . The young Whydah bi r ds cr ouch cl osel y t o-

get her at ni ght f or heat . They l ook l i ke a wool l y

bal l on a br anch. By day t hey engage i n pai r i ng

and coaxi ng each ot her . They come t o t he same

t wi g ever y ni ght . Li ke chi l dr en, t hey t r y t o l i f t

heavy wei ght s of f eat her s above t hei r st r engt h. ' '

' ' June 2i st . — Lewal e of f t o t he war wi t h Mi r ambo.

He i s t o f i ni sh i t now ! a const ant f usi l ade al ong t he

l i ne of hi s mar ch west wi l l expend much powder , but

possi bl y get t hei r spi r i t s up. I f successf ul , wx shal l

get Banyamweze pagazi i n number s. Mi r ambo i s

r epor t ed t o have sent one hundr ed t usks and one

hundr ed sl aves t owar d t he coast t o buy powder . "

' ' June 24t h. — The medi cal educat i on has l ed me t o

a cont i nual t endency t o suspend t he j udgment . What

a st at e of bl essedness i t woul d have been had I pos -

sessed t he dead cer t ai nt y of t he homoeopat hi st s, and

as soon as I f ound Lakes Bangweol o, Moer o, and

Kamal ondo pour i ng t hei r wat er s down t he gr eat -

cent r al val l ey, bel l owed out , ' Hur r ah ! Eur eka ! ' and

got home i n f i r m and honest bel i ef t hat I had set t l ed

i t , and no mi st ake. I nst ead of t hat I am even now

not cocksur e t hat I have not been f ol l owi ng down

what may af t er al l be t he Congo. "

* ' Jul y 2d — Make up a packet f or Dr . Ki r k and

2B6 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Mr . Webb, of Zanzi bar . Expl ai n t o Ki r k, and beg

hi m t o i nvest i gat e and puni sh, and put bl ame on

r i ght per sons" ( f or t he r obber i es of hi s goods) .

^' Wr i t e Si r . B. Fr er e and Agnes. Send l ar ge packet

of ast r onomi cal obser vat i ons and sket ch map t o Si r

T. Macl ear by nat i ve, Sul ei man. "

" Jul y 2) d. — Recei ved not e f r om Oswel l , wr i t t en

Apr i l l ast , cont ai ni ng t he sad news of Si r Roder i ck' s

depar t ur e f r om amongst us. Al as ! al as ! t hi s i s t he

onl y t i me i n my l i f e I have ever been i ncl i ned t o use

t he wor d, and i t speaks a sor e hear t . The best

f r i end I ever had — t r ue, war m, abi di ng. He l oved

me mor e t han I deser ved. He l ooks down on me

st i l l . I must f eel r esi gned by t he Di vi ne Wi l l ; st i l l

I r egr et and mour n. " *

* Thi s ent r y i ndi cat es ext r aor di nar y dept h of emot i on. Si r

Page 150 of 182

Roder i ck exer ci sed a ki nd of spel l on Li vi ngst one. Respect

f or hi m was one of t he subor di nat e mot i ves t hat i nduced hi m

t o under t ake t hi s j our ney. The hope of gi vi ng hi m sat i sf ac -

t i on was one of t he subor di nat e r ewar ds t o whi ch he l ooked

f or war d. Hi s deat h was t o Li vi ngst one a ki nd of sci ent i f i c

wi dowhood, and must have depr i ved hi m of a gr eat spr i ng t o

exer t i on i n t hi s l ast wander i ng. On Si r Roder i ck' s par t t he

af f ect i on f or hi m was ver y gr eat . ' ' Looki ng back, " says hi s

bi ogr apher . Pr of essor Gei ki e, " upon hi s sci ent i f i c car eer when,

not f ar f r om i t s cl ose, Mur chi son f ound no par t of i t whi ch

br ought mor e pl easi ng r ecol l ect i ons t han t he suppor t he had

gi ven t c Af r i can expl or er s — Speke, Gr ant , and not abl y Li vi ng-

st one. ' I r ej oi ce, ' he sai d, ' i n t he st eadf ast t enaci t y wi t h whi ch

I have uphel d my conf i dence i n t he ul t i mat e success of t he

l ast - named of t hese br ave men. I n f act , i t was t he conf i dence

I pl aced i n t he undyi ng vi gor of my dear f r i end Li vi ngst one

whi ch has sust ai ned me i n t he hope t hat I mi ght l i ve t o en-

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 257

^' Jul y 5^ / ?. — Wear y! wear y! "

" Jul y yt h. — Wai t i ng wear i l y her e, and hopi ng

t hat t he good and l ovi ng Fat her of al l may f avor me,

and hel p me t o f i ni sh my wor k qui ckl y and wel l .

Temper at ur e at si x a. m. 6i ° ; f eel s col d. " Her e, as

t hough t o di ver t hi s sad t hought s, comes a vi vi d de-

scr i pt i on of t he Makombwe, t he her edi t ar y hi ppo-

pot amus- hunt er s, and t hei r met hod of hunt i ng, end-

i ng: " Thi s hunt i ng r equi r es t he gr eat est ski l l , cour -

age, and ner ve t hat can be concei ved — doubl e- ar med

and t hr ee- f ol d br ass, or what ever t he ' VTLnei d" says.

The Makombwe. ar e cer t ai nl y a magni f i cent r ace of

men, har dy and act i ve i n t hei r habi t s, and wel l f ed,

as t he r esul t of t hei r br ave expl oi t s ; bei ng a f ami l y

occupat i on, i t has no doubt hel ped i n pr oduci ng f i ne

physi cal devel opment . Though al l t he peopl e

amongst whom t hey soj our n woul d l i ke t he pr of i t s

t hey secur e, I have met wi t h no compet i t or s t o t hem

except t he Wayei ye, of Lake Ngami and adj acent

r i ver s. I have seen our dr agoon of f i cer s per f or m

f enci ng and managi ng t hei r hor ses so dext er ousl y

t hat ever y muscl e seemed t r ai ned t o i t s f ul l est power ,

and per haps had t hey been br ought up as Makombwe

j oy t he supr eme del i ght of wel comi ng hi m back t o hi s own

count r y. ' But t hat consummat i on was not t o- be. He hi msel f

was gat her ed t o hi s r est j ust si x days bef or e St anl ey br ought

news and r el i ef t o t he f or l or n t r avel l er on Lake Tanganyi ka.

And Li vi ngst one, whi l e st i l l i n pur sui t of hi s quest , and wi t hi n

t en mont hs of hi s deat h, l ear ned i n t he hear t of Af r i ca t he

t i di ngs whi ch he chr oni cl ed i n hi s Jour nal . "

258 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t hey mi ght have equal ed t hei r dar i ng and consum-

mat e ski l l . But we have no spor t , except per haps

I ndi an t i ger shoot i ng, r equi r i ng t he cour age and

cool ness t hei r ent er pr i se demands. The danger may

be appr eci at ed i f one r emember s t hat no sooner i s

Page 151 of 182

bl ood shed i n t he wat er t han al l t he cr ocodi l es bel ow

ar e i mmedi at el y dr awn up st r eam by t he scent , and

ar e r eady t o act t he par t of t hi eves i n a London

cr owd, or wor se. "

Then he r el i eves t he wear y wai t i ng by a di sser t a-

t i on on t he pr ospect s of a mi ssi on st at i on one hun-

dr ed mi l es f r om t he east coast , war ml y advocat i ng

i t . " A coupl e of Eur opeans begi nni ng a mi ssi on

wi t hout a st af f of f or ei gn at t endant s i mpl i es coar se

count r y f ar e, i t i s t r ue, but i t woul d be not hi ng t o

t hose who at home amuse t hemsel ves wi t h f ast s,

vi gi l s, et c. A gr eat deal of powxr i s t hus l ost t o t he

Chur ch. Fast i ngs and vi gi l s wi t hout a speci al ob-

j ect ar e t i me r un t o wast e, made t o mi ni st er t o a ki nd

of sel f - gr at i f i cat i on i nst ead of bei ng t ur ned t o ac-

count f or t he good of ot her s. They ar e l i ke gr oan-

i ng i n si ckness. Some peopl e amuse t hemsel ves

when i l l by cont i nuous moani ng. The f or t y days of

Lent mi ght be spent i n vi si t i ng adj acent t r i bes, and

bear i ng unavoi dabl e hunger and t hi r st wi t h a good

gr ace. Consi der i ng t he gr eat ness of t he end t o be

at t ai ned, men mi ght go wi t hout sugar , cof f ee, t ea,

et c. ; I went f r om Sept ember , 1866, t o December ,

1868, wi t hout ei t her . "

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE. 259

^^ Ji i l y 1 2 t h. — When endeavor i ng t o gi ve some ac-

count of t he sl ave- t r ade of East Af r i ca, i t was neces-

sar y t o keep f ar wi t hi n t he t r ut h i n or der not t o be

t hought gui l t y of exagger at i on ; but i n sober ser i ous -

ness, t he subj ect does not admi t of exagger at i on.

The si ght s I have seen, t hough common i nci dent s i n

t he t r af f i c, ar e so nauseous t hat I st r i ve t o dr i ve t hem

f r om my memor y. I n most cases I can succeed i n

t i me, but t he sl avi ng scenes come back unbi dden, and

make me st ar t up at dead of ni ght , hor r i f i ed by t hei r

vi vi dness. "

A l ong paper of not es on t he geol ogy of Cent r al

Af r i ca ser ves t o whi l e away t he t i me whi l e hi s escor t

cr eeps sl owl y up, and t he war al l r ound hi m bet ween

t he Ar abs and Mi r ambo dr ags on. One i nci dent i n

t hi s war of t he ki t es and cr ows may be not ed.

' ' Jul y l yf h. — Went over t o Sul t an bi n AH yest er -

day. Ver y ki nd as usual . He gave me guavas and

a mel on cal l ed ' mat ange. ' I t i s r epor t ed t hat one of

Mi r ambo' s men, Sor ur a, set shar p st i cks i n conceal ed

hol es, whi ch act ed l i ke Br uce' s * cr ow t oes' at Ban-

nockbur n, and wounded sever al . Thi s has i nduced

t he Ar abs t o send f or a cannon t hey have, wi t h

whi ch t o bat t er Mi r ambo at a di st ance. The gun i s

bor ne past us t hi s mor ni ng, a br ass seven- pounder ,

dat ed 1679. Car r i ed by t he Por t uguese commander

t o Chi na i n 1679, or one hundr ed and ni net y- t hr ee

year s ago, and now used t o beat Mi r ambo by Ar abs

who have ver y l i t t l e i nt er est i n t he war ! "

Page 152 of 182

2G0 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" Jul y 2i st . — Bought t wo mi l ch cows wi t h cal ves

f or sevent een dot i s, or t hi r t y- f our f at homs. Bagan-

das packi ng up t o l eave f or home. They t ake a good

deal of br andy and gi n f or Mt esa f r om t he Mosl ems.

Temper at ur e at noon, 96° , Anot her nest of wag-

t ai l s f l own ; t hey eat br ead- cr umbs. I wi sh my men

woul d come and l et me of f t hi s wai t i ng. , . .

Some phi l osophi zi ng i s cur i ous. I t r epr esent s our

Maker f or mi ng t he machi ne of t he uni ver se; set t i ng

i t a- goi ng, and abl e t o do not hi ng mor e out si de cer -

t ai n of Hi s own l aws. He, as i t wer e, l ai d t he t gg

of t he whol e, and, l i ke an ost r i ch, l ef t i t t o be hat ched

by t he sun. We can cont r ol l aws, but He cannot !

A f i r e set t o t hi s house woul d consume i t , but we

t hr ow on wat er and consume t he f i r e. We cont r ol

t he el ement s f i r e and wat er : i s He debar r ed f r om

doi ng t he same, and mor e, who has i nf i ni t e wi sdom

and knowl edge?"

At l ast , on Jul y 31st , he hear s t hat hi s escor t ar e

onl y t wel ve days of f , and not es t hat he i s ' ' t hankf ul

even f or t hi s i n my wear i some wai t i ng. "

' ' August ^ t h. — I n some par t s one i s st r uck by t he

f act of t he chi l dr en havi ng so f ew games. Li f e i s a

ser i ous busi ness, and amusement i s der i ved f r om

i mi t at i ng t he vocat i ons of t he par ent s — hut bui l di ng,

maki ng l i t t l e gar dens, bows and ar r ows, shi el ds and

spear s. El sewher e boys ar e ver y i ngeni ous l i t t l e

f el l ows, and have sever al games; t hey al so shoot

bi r ds wi t h bows, and t each capt ur ed l i nnet s t o si ng.

WAI TI NG AT UNYANYEMBE, 261

They make pl ay- guns of r eeds, whi ch go of f wi t h a

t r i gger and spr i ng wi t h a cl oud of smoke. The boys

shoot l ocust s wi t h smal l t oy guns ver y cl ever l yo A

coupl e of r uf ous, br own- headed, and di r t y speckl e-

br east ed swal l ows appear ed t o- day f or t he f i r st t i me

t hi s season and l i ght ed on t he gr ound. Thi s ki nd

bui l ds her e i n houses, and as f ar sout h as Shupanga. "

' ' August 6t h. — Wagt ai l s begi n t o di schar ge t hei r

young, whi ch f eed t hemsel ves. I can t hi nk of not h-

i ng but Vhen wi l l t hese men come?' Si xt y days

was t he per i od named; now i t i s ei ght y- f our . I t

may be al l f or t he best i n t he good pr ovi dence of t he

Most Hi gh. "

" August gt h. — I do most devout l y t hank t he Lor d

f or Hi s goodness i n br i ngi ng my men near t o t hi s.

Thr ee came t o- day, and how t hankf ul I am I cannot

expr ess. I t i s wel l ; t he men who went wi t h St anl ey

come agai n t o me. ' Bl ess t he Lor d, oh, my soul ,

and al l t hat i s wi t hi n me bl ess Hi s hol y Name,

amen. ' "

" August l $t h. — ^ The men came yest er day, havi ng

been sevent y- f our days f r om Bagamoi o. Most

t hankf ul I am t o t he Gi ver of al l good. I have t o

Page 153 of 182

gi ve t hem a f ew days' r est , and t hen st ar t . "

" August 20t h. — Wei ghed al l t he l oads agai n, and

gave an equal l oad of f i f t y pounds t o each, and hal f

t o t he Nassi cker s. Mabr uki Speke i s l ef t at Tabor ah

wi t h Sul t an bi n AH. He has l ong been si ck, and

unabl e t o go wi t h us/ '

262 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

' ' August 2i st . — Gave peopl e an ox, and t o a di s-

car ded wi f e a cl ot h, t o avoi d exposur e by her hus -

band st r i ppi ng her . She i s somebody' s chi l d ! "

Al l i s now r eady f or t he st ar t . Once mor e, f or -

war d, br ave ol d hear t !

CHAPTER XVI .

THE LAST ADVANCE DEATH.

1872- 73.

On August 25, 1872, al l was r eady, and t he ol 3

t r avel l er mar ched out of Unyanyembe at t he head of

a par t y of f i f t y- si x men sent hi m by Mr . St anl ey.

' ' A dut i f ul son coul d not have done mor e t han he

gener ousl y di d. I bl ess hi m. " He wr i t es si x

mont hs l at er t o Si r Thomas Macl ear and Mr . Mann

i n a l ast l et t er , never f i ni shed : " The men have be-

haved as wel l as Makol ol o. I cannot awar d t hem

hi gher pr ai se, t hough t hey have not t he cour age of

t hat br ave, ki nd- hear t ed peopl e. " ' ' Oper e per act o

l udemus, " he wr ot e about t he same dat e t o hi s ol d

col l ege f r i end, Mr . James Young, or Si r Par af i ne, as

he pl ayf ul l y cal l ed hi m, ' ' you r emember , i n your

Lat i n r udi ment s, ' l ang syne. ' I t i s t i me f or you,

and I r ej oi ce t o t hi nk i t i s now your por t i on, af t er

wor ki ng nobl y, t o pl ay. May you have a l ong spel l

of i t ! I am di f f er ent l y si t uat ed. I shal l never be

abl e t o pl ay. To me i t seems t o be sai d, ' I f t hou f or -

bear t o del i ver t hem t hat ar e dr awn t o deat h, and

t hem t hat ar e r eady t o be sl ai n; i f t hou sayest ,

" Behol d we know i t not , " dot h not He t hat ponder -

et h t he hear t consi der , and He t hat keepet h t he soul

?63

264 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

dot h He not know, and shal l He not gi ve ever y man

accor di ng t o hi s wor ks?' I have been l ed unwi t -

t i ngl y i nt o t he sl avi ng f i el d of t he Bani ans and Ar abs

i n Cent r al Af r i ca. I have seen t he woes i nf l i ct ed,

and must st i l l do al l I can t o expose and mi t i gat e t he

evi l s. Though har d wor k i s st i l l t o be my l ot , I l ook

geni al l y on ot her s mor e f avor ed. I woul d not be a

Page 154 of 182

member of t he I nt er nat i onal , f or I l ove t o t hi nk of

ot her s enj oyi ng l i f e. "

The men who i n a f ew weeks' t i me wer e as good

as Makol ol o wer e by no means so at f i r st . On t he

second day t wo of t he Nassi cker s l ost one out of hi s

t en cows, and agai n on August 30t h : " The t wo Nas -

si cker s l ost al l t he cows yest er day f r om sheer l azi -

ness. Found a l ong way of f and one cow mi ssi ng.

She was our best mi l ker . Susi gave t hem t en cut s

each wi t h a swi t ch. " The Nassi cker s, however , wer e

i n as per f ect or der as t he r est i n a f ew weeks under

t he super b power s of or gani zat i on and management

of t he ol d expl or er , when he wr i t es t o St anl ey : " I am

per pet ual l y r emi nded t hat I owe a gr eat deal t o you

f or t he men you sent . Wi t h one except i on, t he

par t y i s wor ki ng l i ke a machi ne. I gi ve my or der s

t o Mwana Ser a, and never have t o r epeat t nem. "

Wi t h t hese f i f t y- si x men and t wo women, Li vi ng-

st one set out f r om Unyanyembe on hi s l ast mar ch on

August 25, 1872. I t ended on Apr i l 30, 1873, i "

Chi t ambo' s vi l l age of I l al a, on t he sout hwest er n

shor e of Lake Bangweol o. Those who have f ol -

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 265

l owed hi m on t he map i n hi s l ast j our ney, when he

r et ur ned baf f l ed and br oken down i n heal t h f r om hi s

ext r eme nor t hwest er n poi nt on t he Lual aba — f ar up

i n Cent r al Af r i ca, and st i l l doubt f ul whet her he was

on t he sour ces of t he Ni l e or t he Congo — wi l l be sur -

pr i sed at t he sout her n di r ect i on of hi s l ast mar ch.

I t seems at f i r st si ght t o have l i t t l e bear i ng on t he

gr eat quest i on, Ni l e or Congo. Hi s r easons f or t he

r out e chosen seem t o have been as f ol l ows: Fr om

car ef ul si f t i ng of t he r epor t s of nat i ve t r avel l er s he

was i ncl i ned t o bel i eve t hat t he st or y t ol d by t he

pr i est of Mi ner va t o Her odot us, i n t he t empl e of

Sai s, of t he t wo coni cal hi l l s i n Cent r al Af r i ca,

Cr ophi and Mophi , f r om t he unf at homed f ount ai ns

at whose f eet f l owed t wo r i ver s, t he one t o t he nor t h

t hr ough Egypt , t he ot her t o Et hi opi a, was wor t h

mor e t han t he f at her of hi st or y had assi gned t o i t .

He woul d sat i sf y hi msel f as t o t hi s by vi si t i ng t he

t wo hi l l s due west of Bangweol o. Then t ur ni ng

due nor t h, and vi si t i ng t he copper mi nes and under -

gr ound excavat i ons i n t he Kat angas count r y by t he

way, he hoped i n t wel ve days t o st r i ke t he head of ^

t he unexpl or ed l ake, wher e he l ooked f or t he f i nal

sol ut i on of hi s doubt s. ' Then I hope devout l y t o

t hank t he Lor d of al l , and t ur n my f ace al ong Lake

Kamal ondo, and over Lual aba, Tanganyi ka, Uj i j i ,

and home ! ' '

Thi s l ast and cr owni ng expedi t i on woul d t her e-

f or e have put a gi r dl e out si de hi s pr evi ous expl or a-

266 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Page 155 of 182

t i ons i n t hese di st r i ct s, keepi ng t o t he west war d of

Lake Moer o, and so up nor t h by Lake Li ncol n t i l l

he st r uck t he Lual aba on i t s west bank, beyond t he

poi nt wher e he had been f oi l ed and t ur ned back t wo

year s bef or e. He woul d have t her e cr ossed i nt o t he

Manyuema t er r i t or y, and r et ur ned t o hi s st ar t i ng-

poi nt r ound t he nor t her n end of Lake Tanganyi ka.

A t r ul y her oi c pi ece of wor k f or a man of si xt y,

wor n by pr evi ous har dshi ps and subj ect t o a cr uel

and exhaust i ng f or m of dysent er y f r om over - exer -

t i on or exposur e.

Knowi ng t he event as we do, i t i s a pat het i c t ask

t o f ol l ow hi m. War was r agi ng over much of t he

di st r i ct east of Tanganyi ka t hr ough whi ch hi s pat h

l ay, addi ng gr eat l y t o t he danger and di f f i cul t i es of

t he mar ch, t he peopl e bei ng di st r ust f ul and unwi l l i ng

or unabl e t o sel l pr ovi si ons. Somet i mes he r ode one

of t he donkeys, but as a r ul e t r amped al ong t i l l Sep-

t ember 2i st , when hi s ol d enemy, whi ch had al r eady

at t acked hi m, had t o be ser i ousl y met . ' ' Rest her e, "

r uns t he ent r y, " as t he compl ai nt does not yi el d t o

medi ci ne or f i me ; but I begi n t o eat now, whi ch i s a

f avor abl e sympt om, " and t hen f ol l ow not es on t he

habi t s of ki t es, and on t he gi nger br ead pal m. And

even as di sease gai ns on hi m, si mi l ar not es on t he

pr oduct s and peopl e ar e made day by day, wi t h ob-

ser vat i ons, when t hese coul d be t aken, t he di r ect i on

of t he r out e and di st ance t r aver sed, and t he dai l y

or der s t o hi s men.

THE LAST ADVANCE- DEATH. 267

Hi s gr eat l ovi ng hear t , t oo, i s open al l t he way.

Her e i t i s a poor woman of Uj i j i who had f ol l owed

one of St anl ey' s men, and been cast of f by hi m ; ' * she

had quar r el ed al l r ound; her t emper seems t oo ex-

ci t abl e ; she i s somebody' s bai r n, never t hel ess. "

' ' November i St h. — One of t he men pi cked up a

l i t t l e gi r l , deser t ed by her mot her . As she was be-

numbed by col d and wet , he car r i ed her , but when I

came up he t hr ew her i nt o t he gr ass. I or der ed a

man t o car r y her , and we gave her t o one of t he

chi l dl ess women. "

Ever y day some of t he men ar e i l l and have t o be

car ed f or , and l oads r eadj ust ed. The r egi on i s f or

t he most par t desol at e al l r ound t he sout her n end of

Tanganyi ka. " The popul at i on of Myunda must

have been pr odi gi ous, f or al l t he st ones have been

cl ear ed and ever y avai l abl e i nch of soi l cul t i vat ed.

The popul at i on ar e sai d t o have been al l swept away

by t he Wat ut a. "

Food was const ant l y r unni ng shor t .

^' November 3J. — We mar ched t o a vi l l age wher e

f ood was r epor t ed. I had t o puni sh t wo usel ess men

f or cal l i ng out Tosho ! posho ! ' r at i ons, as soon as I

came near . One i s a conf i r med bange* smoker .

The bl ows wer e gi ven l i ght l y, but I pr omi sed t hat

Page 156 of 182

t he next shoul d be sever e. "

Now and t hen an undi st ur bed vi l l age occur s, or a

f r i endl y chi ef .

* Hemp.

268 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

' ^ November 2yt h. — As i t i s Sunday, we st ay her e

at N' dar i s vi l l age, f or we shal l be i n an uni nhabi t abl e

t r act t o- mor r ow beyond t he Lof u. The head- man

cooked si x messes f or us, and begged us t o r emai n

f or mor e f ood, whi ch we buy. He gave us a hand-

some pr esent of f l our and a f owl , f or whi ch I r et ur n

hi m a pr esent of a dot i . Ver y heavy r ai n and hi gh

gust s of wi nd, whi ch wet us al l . " The r ai ny season

had set i n sever el y, and t he hot gr ound, whi ch had

scor ched t hei r f eet on t he r ocky pat hs near

Tanganyi ka, had t ur ned i nt o a vast sponge or

swamp on t he east er n and sout her n shor es of

Lake Bangweol o, whi ch t hey wer e now appr oach-

i ng.

Hi s humor never f or sook hi m, even i n t hese

dr ear y days. At a l ar ge st r eam beyond t he Lof u " a

man came t o t he br i dge t o ask f or t ol l . As i t was

composed of one st i ck onl y, and unf i t f or our use,

because r ot t en, I agr eed t o pay, pr ovi ded he made i t

f i t f or us, but i f I r emade and enl ar ged i t , I sai d he

ought t o gi ve me a goat . He sl ank away, and we

l ai d l ar ge t r ees acr oss. "

" 2gt h. — Chi we pr esent ed us wi t h a smal l goat

wi t h cr ooked l egs and some mi l l et f l our , but gr um-

bl ed at t he cl ot h I gave. I of f er ed anot her f at hom

and a bundl e of needl es, but he gr umbl ed at t hi s,

t oo, and sent i t back. On t hi s I r et ur ned hi s goat

and mar ched. "

" December Tf d. — We cr ossed t he Kanomba, f i f t een

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 269

yar ds wi de and knee deep. Her e our gui de di sap-

pear ed. So di d t he pat h. "

I n December t he r ai ns come on, and t he whol e

count r y soon becomes a l ar ge sponge. The omi nous

si ngl e wor d ' 111" appear s i n t he Jour nal ; st i l l ever y

st r eam cr ossed i s ent er ed i n hi s pocket - book, wi t h

obser vat i ons when t hey coul d be t aken, and t he

mar chi ng or der s, and di r ect i on of r out e. And no

suf f er i ng i s al l owed t o i nt er f er e wi t h di sci pl i ne.

^' December i Gt h. — The pugnaci ous spi r i t i s one of

t he necessi t i es of l i f e. When peopl e have l i t t l e or

none of i t , t hey ar e subj ect ed t o i ndi gni t y and l oss.

My own men wal k i nt o houses wher e we pass t he

ni ght wi t hout l eave, and st eal cassava wi t hout shame

Page 157 of 182

— I have t o t hr eat en and t hr ash t o keep t hem honest ;

whi l e i f we ar e at a vi l l age wher e t he nat i ves ar e a

l i t t l e pugnaci ous, t hey ar e as meek as sucki ng doves.

The peace pl an i nvol ves i ndi gni t y and wr ong. I

gi ve l i t t l e pr esent s t o t he head- men, and t o some ex-

t ent heal t hei r hur t sensi bi l i t i es. Thi s i s much ap-

pr eci at ed, and pr oduces pr of ound hand- cl appi ng. "

* ' December 24t h. — Sent back Chama' s ar r ows" ( a

bundl e he had t aken t wo days bef or e) , " as hi s f ool -

i sh br ot her cannot use t hem agai nst us now. Ther e

ar e 215 i n t he bundl e. "

" Chr i st mas Day. — I t hank t he good Lor d f or t he

good gi f t of Hi s Son, Chr i st Jesus our Lor d.

Sl aught er ed an ox, and gave a f undo and a hal f t o

each of t he par t y. Thi s i s our gr eat day, so we r est .

270 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

I t i s col d and wet , day and ni ght . The head- man i s

gr aci ous and gener ous, whi ch i s ver y pl easant com-

par ed wi t h awe, awe, and r ef usi ng t o sel l , or st op t o

speak, or show t he way. "

" 2yt h. — I ki l l ed a snake, seven f eet l ong, her e.

He r ear ed up bef or e me, and t ur ned t o f i ght . No

obser vat i ons possi bl e t hr ough most of t hi s mont h.

A man i l l , and unabl e t o come on, was l ef t al l ni ght

i n t he r ai n wi t hout f i r e. Sent men back t o car r y

hi m. "

" 2gt h or 1st Januar y. — Our man Chi pangawazi

di ed l ast ni ght , and was bur i ed t hi s mor ni ng ; a good,

qui et man. I am wr ong t wo days. " *

* I n t he second week of Januar y t hey came near Bangweol o,

and t he r ei gn of Nept une became i ncessant . We ar e t ol d of

col d, r ai ny weat her ; somet i mes a dr i zzl e, somet i mes an i nces -

sant pour ; swol l en st r eams and i ncr easi ng sponges — maki ng

pr ogr ess a cont i nual st r uggl e. Yet , as he passes t hr ough a

f or est , he has an eye t o i t s f l ower s, whi ch ar e numer ous and

beaut i f ul :

" Ther e ar e many f l ower s i n t he f or est ; mar i gol ds, a whi t e

j onqui l - l ooki ng f l ower wi t hout smel l , many or chi ds, whi t e,

yel l ow, and pi nk ascl epi as, wi t h bunches of Fr ench- whi t e

f l ower s, cl emat i s — Met honi ca gl or i osa, gl adi ol us, and bl ue and

deep pur pl e pol ygal as, gr asses wi t h whi t e st ar r y seed- vessel s,

and spi kel et s of br owni sh r ed and yel l ow. Besi des t hese,

t her e ar e beaut i f ul bl ue f l ower i ng bul bs, and new f l ower s of

pr et t y, del i cat e f or m and but l i t t l e scent . To t hi s l i st may be

added bal sams, composi t se of bl ood- r ed col or and of pur pl e;

ot her f l ower s of l i ver col or , br i ght canar y yel l ow, pi nk or chi ds

on spi kes t hi ckl y cover ed al l r ound, and of t hr ee i nches i n

l engt h ; spi der wor t s of f i ne bl ue or yel l ow or even pi nk. Di f -

f er ent - col or ed ascl epi adesej beaut i f ul yel l ow and r ed umbel -

I

Page 158 of 182

THE LAST ADVANCE- DEATH. ^ ^ 1

^^ Januar y 8t h. — We ar e near Lake Bangweol o and

i n a damp r egi on. " Fr om t hi s t i me t he advance was

a const ant pl ungi ng t hr ough mor asses and acr oss t he

^ many r i ver s r unni ng i nt o Bangweol o. Pushi ng

' t hr ough deser t ed vi l l ages, ' ' popul at i on al l gone f r om

t he war of Chi t oka wi t h Chi t unkue, " chi ef of t hi s

r egi on. ' ' No ast r onomi cal obser vat i ons wor t h nam-

i ng dur i ng December and Januar y; i mpossi bl e t o

t ake any, owi ng t o cl ouds and r ai n. I t i s t r yi ng be-

yond measur e t o be baf f l ed by t he nat i ves l yi ng and

mi sl eadi ng us wher ever t hey can. They f ear us

ver y gr eat l y, and wi t h a t er r or t hat woul d gr at i f y an

ant hr opol ogi st ' s hear t . "

He coul d now onl y t r avel on t he shoul der s of

Susi and ot her s. " The count r y i s cover ed wi t h

br acken, and r i vul et s occur at l east one ever y hour

of t he mar ch. These ar e now deep, and have a

br oad sel vage of sponge. " Her e i s a speci men of

t hei r di f f i cul t i es : " Car r yi ng me acr oss one of t he

br oad, deep, sedgy r i ver s i s r eal l y a ver y di f f i cul t

t ask. One we cr ossed was at l east 2, 000 f eet br oad.

The f i r st par t , t he mai n st r eam, came up t o Susi ' s

mout h, and wet t ed my seat and l egs. One hel d up

my pi st ol behi nd, t hen one af t er anot her t ook a t ur n ;

and when he sank i nt o a deep el ephant ' s f oot pr i nt

he r equi r ed t wo t o l i f t hi m on t o t he l evel , whi ch

l l f er ous f l ower i ng pl ant s ; di l l and wi l d par sni ps ; pr et t y f l ower -

i ng al oes, yel l ow and r ed, i n one whor l of bl ossoms ; peas and

many ot her f l ower i ng pl ant s whi ch I do' not know. "

272 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

was over wai st deep. Ot her s went on, and bent

down t he gr ass t o i nsur e some f oot i ng on t he si de of

t he el ephant s' pat h. Ever y t en or t wel ve paces

br ought us t o a cl ear st r eam, f l owi ng f ast i n i t s own

channel , whi l e over al l a st r ong cur r ent came bodi l y

t hr ough al l t he r ushes and aquat i c pl ant s. Susi had

t he f i r st spel l , t hen Far i j al a, t hen a t al l , st out , Ar ab-

l ooki ng man, t hen Amoda; and each t i me I was

l i f t ed of f bodi l y and put on anot her pai r of br oad,

wi l l i ng shoul der s, and f i f t y yar ds puj t hem out of

br eat h. No wonder ! I t was sor e on t he women

f ol k. "

I n Febr uar y t he chance of st ar vat i on was added t o

hi s ot her t r i al s.

" i st . — Scout s f or ced t o r et ur n by hunger . Ki l l ed

our l ast cal f , and t ur n back f or f our days' har d t r avel

t o Chi t unkubwe' s. I send men on t o br i ng back

f ood. "

' ' 4t h. — Camp amongst deser t ed gar dens, whi ch

af f or d a wel come suppl y of cassava and sweet po-

t at oes.

Page 159 of 182

" 5^ / 1. — We ar e now at Chi t unkubwe' s mer cy.

Ret ur ned over t hose f or t y- one mi l es i n f i f t een hour s.

I got l unar s f or a wonder . Chi t unkubwe i s a f i ne,

j ol l y- l ooki ng man, of a Eur opean cast of count e-

nance, and ver y f r i endl y. I gave hi m t wo cl ot hs,

f or whi ch he seemed t hankf ul , and pr omi sed good

gui des t o Mat i pa' s. I t seems we have been cl ose t o

human habi t at i ons, but di d not know i t . We have

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 273

l ost hal f a mont h by t hi s wander i ng, al l owi ng t o t he

unf r i endl i ness of some and t he f ear of al l . "

Di sci pl i ne never sl ackens.

" i 4f / i . — Publ i c puni shment t o Chi r ango f or st eal -

i ng beads; f i f t een cut s. I t was Hal i mah who i n-

f or med on Chi r ango, as he of f er ed her beads, f or a

cl ot h, of a ki nd whi ch she knew had not hi t her t o

been t aken out of t he baggage. Thi s was so f ar

f ai t hf ul i n her , but she has an out r ageous t ongue. I

r emai n because of an excessi ve hsemor r hagi c di s-

char ge. I f t he good Lor d gi ves me f avor , and per -

mi t s me t o f i ni sh my wor k, I shal l t hank and bl ess

Hi m, t hough i t has cost me unt ol d t oi l , pai n, and

t r avel . Thi s t r i p has made my hai r al l gr ay. "

" i 6t h. — Chi t unkubwe' s men r an away, r ef usi ng t o

wai t t i l l we had hear d f r om Mat i pa, " t o whom he

had sent on Susi and Chumah.

" l yt h. — Suf f er ed a f ur i ous at t ack at mi dni ght

f r om t he r ed Si r af u or Dr i ver ant s. Our cook f l ed

f i r st at t hei r onset . I l i ght ed a candl e, and r emem-

ber i ng Dr . Van der Kemp' s i dea t hat no ani mal wi l l

at t ack man unpr ovoked, l ay st i l l . The f i r st came on

my f oot qui et l y. Then some began t o bi t e bet ween

t he t oes. Then t he l ar ger ones swar med over t he

f oot , bi t f ur i ousl y, and made bl ood st ar t . I went

out of t he t ent and was i nst ant l y cover ed as cl ose as

smal l - pox ( not conf l uent ) on a pat i ent . Gr ass f i r es

wer e l i ght ed, and my men pi cked some of f my l i mbs

and t r i ed t o save me. Af t er bat t l i ng f or an hour or

274 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t wo, t hey t ook me i nt o a t ent not yet i nvaded, and I

r est ed t i l l t hey came — t he pest s — and r out ed me out

t her e, t oo. Then came on a st eady pour of r ai n, as

i f t r yi ng t o make us mi ser abl e. I got back t o my

t ent at ni ne a. m. ^ " * Then f ol l ows a descr i pt i on of

t he habi t s of t hi s ant : " They r emai ned wi t h us t i l l

l at e i n t he af t er noon, and we put hot ashes on t he

def i ant hor des. They r et i r e t o enj oy t he f r ui t s of

t hei r r ai d, and come out f r esh anot her day. "

Susi had gone on t o Mat i pa' s t o negot i at e f or

canoes. " We wai t , hungr y and col d, and hope t he

Page 160 of 182

good Lor d wi l l gr ant us i nf l uence wi t h t hi s man. I f

he f ai l s us by f ai r means, we must sei ze canoes and

go by f or ce. The men say f ear of me makes t hem

act ver y cowar dl y. I have gone amongst t he whol e

popul at i on ki ndl y and f ai r l y, but I f ear must now act

r i gi dl y; f or when t hey hear we have submi t t ed t o

i nj ust i ce, t hey at once concl ude we ar e f ai r game.

I t i s, I can decl ar e, not my nat ur e, nor has i t been my

pr act i ce, t o go as i f my back wer e up. "

^' 22d. — I was never i n such mi st y, cl oudy weat her

i n Af r i ca. No obser vat i ons can possi bl y be

t aken. "

" 26t h. — Susi r et ur ned t hi s mor ni ng wi t h good

news f r om Mat i pa, who decl ar es hi s wi l l i ngness t o

car r y us t o Kabende f or t he f i ve bundl es of br ass

wi r e I of f er ed. " The canoes ar r i ved next day, but

t he paddl er s pr oposed t o embar k onl y hal f t he par t y

at onc^ , " I r ef used t o di vi de our f or ce. The good

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 275

Lor d hel p me. They say Mat i pa i s t r ut hf ul . New

moon t hi s eveni ng. "

" Mar ch i st . — Embar ked women and goods i n

canoes, and went t hr ee hour s S. E. t o Bangweol o.

Heavy r ai n wet t ed us al l . We went over f l ooded

pr ai r i es f our f eet deep, cover ed wi t h r ushes and t wo

var i et i es of l ot us or sacr ed l i l y; bot h ar e eat en, and

so ar e papyr us. The men ( paddl er s) ar e gr eat cow-

ar ds. I t ook possessi on of al l t hei r paddl es and

punt pol es, as t hey showed an i ncl i nat i on t o move of f

f r om our i sl et . Pl ai ns, ext endi ng f ur t her t han t he

eye can r each, have f our or f i ve f eet of cl ear wat er

and l ake; and adj acent l ands, f or t went y or t hi r t y

mi l es, ar e l evel . We ar e sur r ounded by scor es of

mi l es of r ushes, an open swar d, and many l ot us

pl ant s but no mosqui t oes. "

One f ol l ows t he br ave ol d man, now f ast si nki ng,

wi t h sor e hear t but ever - gr owi ng admi r at i on. De-

t ai ned at Mat i pa' s vi l l age, he i s st i l l gat her i ng i nf or -

mat i on on l egends, geogr aphy, nat ur al hi st or y.

^' Mat i pa never hear d f r om any of t he el der s of hi s

peopl e t hat any of hi s f or ef at her s ever saw a Eur o-

pean. He knew per f ect l y about Per ei r a, Lacer da,

and Mont ei r o, goi ng t o Casembe, and my comi ng t o

t he i sl et Mpabal a. The f ol l owi ng i s a smal l snat ch

of Babi sa l or e, and t ol d by an ol d man who came t o

t r y f or some beads, and seemed much i nt er est ed

about pr i nt i ng. He was asked i f t her e wer e any

mar ks made on t he r ocks i n any par t of t he count r y,

276 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

and t hi s l ed t o t he st or y. Luker anga came f r om t he

west , a l ong t i me ago, t o t he r i ver Lual aba. He

had wi t h hi m a l i t t l e dog. When he want ed t o pass

Page 161 of 182

over , he t hr ew hi s mat on t he wat er , and t hi s ser ved

f or a r af t . When he r eached t he ot her si de t her e

wer e r ocks at t he l andi ng- pl ace, and t he mar k i s st i l l

t o be seen on t he st one, not onl y of hi s f oot , but of a

st i ck whi ch he cut wi t h hi s hat chet , and of hi s dog' s

f eet ; t he name of t he pl ace i s Achewa. " Whi l e

wai t i ng wear i l y at Mat i pa' s, he moved hi s camp out

of t he di r t y vi l l age t o t he hi ghest poi nt of t he i sl and

f or f r esher ai r .

" Mar ch nt h. — Mat i pa says: ' Wai t , Kabi nga I s

comi ng, and he has canoes. ' Ti me i s of no val ue t o

hi m. Hi s wi f e i s maki ng hi m pombe, and he wi l l

dr own al l hi s car es; but mi ne i ncr ease and pl ague

me. . . . Bet t er news ; t he son of Kabi nga i s t o

be her e t o- ni ght , and we shal l concoct pl ans t o-

get her . "

' ' Mar ch 12t h. — The news was f al se; no one f r om

Kabi nga. The men st r ung beads t o- day, and I

wr ot e par t of my despat ch t o Ear l Gr anvi l l e. "

No canoes or messenger s f r om Kabi nga comi ng.

Li vi ngst one at l ast l oses pat i ence.

" i St h. — I made a demonst r at i on by t aki ng qui et

possessi on of hi s vi l l age and house; f i r ed a pi st ol

t hr ough t he r oof and cal l ed my men, t en bei ng l ef t t o

guar d t he camp. "

' ' Mar ch i ^ t h ( hi s l ast bi r t hday) . — Thanks t o t he

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 277

Al mi ght y Pr eser ver of men f or spar i ng me t hus f ar .

Can I hope f or ul t i mat e success ? So many obst acl es

have ar i sen. Let not Sat an pr evai l over me, oh ! my

good Lor d Jesus. "

' ' 2i sf . — Gave Mat i pa a coi l of t hi ck br ass wi r e

and hi s wi f e a st r i ng of l ar ge neck beads, and ex -

pl ai ned my hur r y t o be of f . He i s now al l f ai r , and

pr omi ses l ar gel y; he has been much f r i ght ened by

our war l i ke demonst r at i on. . I am gl ad I had not h-

i ng mor e t o do t han make a show of f or ce. " At

l ast , on t he 23d, he get s away.

" 24^ / i . — We punt ed si x hour s t o a l i t t l e i sl et wi t h-

out a t r ee, and no sooner l anded t han a pi t i l ess, pel t -

i ng r ai n came on. We t ur ned up a canoe f or shel t er .

We shal l r each t he Chambeze t o- mor r ow. The

wi nd t or e t he t ent out of our hands, and damaged i t ,

t oo. The l oads ar e al l soaked, and wi t h t he col d i t

i s bi t t er l y uncomf or t abl e. A man put my bed i n t he

bi l ge, and never sai d ' bal e out , ' so I was saf e f or a

wet ni ght ; but i t t ur ned out bet t er . No gr ass, but

we made a bed of t he l oads, and a bl anket f or t u-

nat el y put i nt o a bag. "

" 2^ t h. — Not hi ng ear t hl y wi l l make me gi ve up my

wor k i n despai r . I encour age mysel f i n t he Lor d

my God, and go f or war d. "

Page 162 of 182

For war d ! but wi t h ever - t hi ckeni ng t r oubl e, t he

men hi ar chi ng t hr ough wat er , par al l el wi t h hi s

pr ogr ess i n a canoe.

' ' Mar ch ^ i st , — Sent Kabi nga a cl ot h and a mes-

278 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

sage, but he i s evi dent l y a ni ggar d, l i ke Mat i pa.

We must t ake hi m as we f i nd hi m ; t her e i s no use i n

gr owl i ng. . . . Kabi nga, i t seems, pl eased wi t h

t he cl ot h — wel l ; wi l l ask f or mai ze f r om hi s peopl e

and buy i t f or me. "

" Apr i l 4t h. — Sent over t o Kabi nga t o buy a cow,

and got a f at one f or t wo and a hal f dot i s, t o gi ve

my peopl e a f east er e we st ar t . The ' kambar i ' f i sh

of t he Chambeze i s 3 f eet 3 i nches i n l engt h. Two

ot her s, t he ' pol we' and ' l opal akwao, ' al l go up t he

Chambeze t o spawn when t he r ai ns begi n. Casem-

be' s peopl e make cavi ar e of t he spawn of t he

* pumbo. ' "

" 5^ / ^ . — Mar ch f r om Kabi nga' s on t he Chambeze,

our l uggage i n canoes and men on l and. We

punt ed on f l oods 6 f eet deep, wi t h many ant - hi l l s al l

about cover ed wi t h t r ees. Cour se S. S. E. f or 5

mi l es, acr oss Ri ver Lobi ngel a, sl uggi sh, 300 yar ds

wi de. "

" 6t h. — Leave i n same wa) ' ' , but men sent f r om

Kabi nga t o st eal t he canoes whi ch we pai d hi s

br ot her Mat eysa handsomel y f or . . . our par t y

separ at ed and we pul l ed and punt ed si x or seven

hour s i n gr eat di f f i cul t y, as t he f i sher men r ef used t o

t el l us w^ her e deep wat er l ay. . . . I t i s qui t e

i mpossi bl e t o t el l wher e l and ends and l ake begi ns.

I t i s wat er , wat er ever ywher e. The Ni l e appar ent l y

enact i ng i t s i nundat i ons even at i t s sour ces. . . .

A l i on had wander ed i nt o t hi s wor l d of wat er and

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 279

ant - hi l l s, and r oar ed ni ght and mor ni ng, as i f ver y

much di sgust ed. We coul d sympat hi ze wi t h hi m. "

" l ot h. — I am pal e, bl oodl ess, * and weak f r om

bl eedi ng pr of usel y ever si nce 31st of Mar ch; an ar -

t er y gi ves of f a copi ous st r eam, and t akes away my

st r engt h. "

The par t y ar e now al l t oget her agai n and mar ch-

i ng sl owl y.

" i 8t h. — Cr ossed t wo l ar ge sponges, and I was

f or ced t o st op at a l ar ge vi l l age af t er t r avel l i ng t wo

hour s. Ver y i l l al l ni ght , but r emember ed t hat t he

bl eedi ng and most ot her ai l ment s i n t hi s l and ar e

f or ms of f ever . Took t wo scr upl e doses of qui ni ne,

Page 163 of 182

and st opped i t qui t e . . . not al l pl easur e t hi s

expl or at i on. " And t hen f ol l ows t he l ast not e on t he

count r y he seems ever t o have made: " The Lavusi

hi l l s ar e a r el i ef t o t he eye i n t hi s f l at upl and. Thei r

f or ms show you an i gneous or i gi n. The r i ver

Kazya comes f r om t hem, and goes di r ect t o t he l ake.

No obser vat i ons now, owi ng t o gr eat weakness. I

* I n t he begi nni ng of Apr i l , t he bl eedi ng f r om t he bowel s,

f r om whi ch he had been suf f er i ng, became mor e copi ous, and

hi s weakness was pi t i f ul ; st i l l he l onged f or st r engt h t o f i ni sh

hi s wor k. Even yet t he ol d passi on f or nat ur al hi st or y was

st r ong; t he aqueous pl ant s t hat abounded ever ywher e, t he

cat er pi l l ar s t hat af t er eat i ng t he pl ant s at e one anot her , and

wer e such dumsy swi mmer s ; t he f i sh wi t h t he hook- shaped

l ower j aw t hat enabl ed t hem t o f eed as t hey ski mmed past t he

pl ant s ; t he mor ni ng summons of t he cocks and t ur t l e- doves ;

t he wei r d scr eam of t he f i sh eagl e — al l engaged hi s i nt er est .

Obser vat i ons cont i nued t o be t aken, and t he Sunday ser vi ces

wer e al ways hel d.

280 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

can har dl y hol d a penci l , and my st i ck i s a bur den.

Tent gone. The men bui l t a good hut f or me and

t he l uggage. "

Fr om t hi s t i me, t hough scar cel y consci ous, he st i l l

pushes on. On t he 21st he even made an ef f or t t o

r i de t he donkey, but f el j of f di r ect l y. Chumah t hr ew

down hi s gun, r an t o st op t he men ahead, and on hi s

r et ur n bent over hi s mast er , who sai d, " Chumah, I

have l ost so much bl ood, t her e i s no st r engt h l ef t i n

my l egs; you must car r y me. " He was l i f t ed on t o

Chumah' s shoul der s and car r i ed back t o t he vi l l age.

' ' Fr om t he 22, d t o 26t h Apr i l / ' — No ent r y but t he

dat e, but he st i l l st r uggl ed f or war d i n t he " ki t anda"

( a r ough l i t t er ) . Whi l e hal t i ng on t he l at t er day,

t hough pr one wi t h pai n and exhaust i on, he di r ect ed

Susi t o count t he bags of beads, and t wel ve bei ng

st i l l i n st ock, di r ect ed hi m t o buy t wo el ephant s'

t usks t o be exchanged f or cl ot h when t hey r eached

Uj i j i .

The l ast ent r y, on Apr i l 27t h, r uns. : " Knocked up

qui t e, and r emai n — r ecover — sent t o buy mi l ch

goat s. We ar e on t he banks of t he Mol i l amo. " The

goat s coul d not be bought , and on t he 29t h, i n t he

l ast st age of pai n and weakness, he was car r i ed t o t he

Mol i l amo and f er r i ed acr oss. I l al a, t he vi l l age of

Chi t ambo, a f r i endl y chi ef , was now cl ose by, but

t wi ce on t he way he desi r ed t o be l ef t wher e he was,

t he i nt ense pai n of movement havi ng mast er ed hi m.

The l ast hal t was f or an hour i n t he gar dens out si de.

THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 281

Whi l e hi s men pr epar ed t he r ai sed bed of st i cks and

gr ass i nsi de, and banked t he hut r ound, a cur i ous

Page 164 of 182

cr owd gat her ed r ound t o gaze at t he best f r i end

Af r i ca had ever had, and was about t o l ose. Dr i z -

zl i ng r ai n was f al l i ng, and a f i r e was l i ght ed out si de

t he door . The boy, Maj war a, sl ept i nsi de t he

t ent .

I n t he mor ni ng Chi t ambo came, but t he dyi ng

man sent hi m away, t el l i ng hi m t o come next day,

when he hoped t o be abl e t o t al k. At el even p. m.

Susi was cal l ed i n by t he boy. Ther e was shout i ng

i n t he di st ance, and Li vi ngst one asked, ' ' Ar e our

men maki ng t hat noi se?" ' ' No. The peopl e ar e

scar i ng a buf f al o f r om t hei r dur a f i el ds. " A pause.

" I s t hi s t he Luapul a?" " No, I l al a, Chi t ambo' s vi l -

l age. " " How many days t o t he Luapul a?" " I

t hi nk t hr ee days, Bwana ( mast er ) . " He dozed of f

agai n. An hour l at er Susi agai n hear d t he boy' s

" Bwana want s you, Susi . " Susi went i n; he was

t ol d t o boi l wat er , and t hen t o get t he medi ci ne chest

and hol d t he candl e, and he not i ced t hat hi s mast er

coul d har dl y see. He sel ect ed t he cal omel wi t h di f f i -

cul t y, and was t ol d t o put a cup wi t h wat er , and an-

ot her empt y, by t he bed. " Al l r i ght ; you can go out

now, " i n a f eebl e voi ce, wer e t he l ast wor ds he hear d.

About f our A. M. Maj war a came agai n: " Come t o

Bwana, I am af r ai d. I don' t know i f he i s

al i ve. "

Susi , Chumah, and f our ot her s wer e at t he t ent -

282 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

door i n a moment . The Doct or was kneel i ng by t he

bed, hi s f ace bur i ed i n hi s hands on t he pi l l ow,

dead. *

* Then t hey l ai d hi m on a r ough bed i n t he hut , wher e he

spent t he ni ght . Next day he l ay undi st ur bed. He asked a

f ew wander i ng quest i ons about t he count r y — especi al l y about

t he Luapul a. Hi s peopl e knew t hat t he end coul d not be f ar

of f . Not hi ng occur r ed t o at t r act not i ce dur i ng t he ear l y par t

of t he ni ght , but at f our i n t he mor ni ng, t he boy who l ay

at hi s door cal l ed i n al ar m f or Susi , f ear i ng t hat t hei r mast er

was dead. By t he candl e st i l l bur ni ng t hey saw hi m, not i n

bed, but kneel i ng at t he bedsi de wi t h hi s head bur i ed i n hi s

hands upon t he pi l l ow. The sad yet not unexpect ed t r ut h

soon became evi dent : he had passed away on t he f ur t hest of

al l hi s j our neys, and wi t hout a si ngl e at t endant . But he had

di ed i n t he act of pr ayer — pr ayer of f er ed i n t hat r ever ent i al

at t i t ude about whi ch he was al ways so par t i cul ar ; commend-

i ng hi s own spi r i t , wi t h al l hi s dear ones, as was hi s wont ,

i nt o t he hands of hi s Savi our ; and commendi ng Af r i ca — hi s

own dear Af r i ca — wi t h al l her woes and si ns and wr ongs, t o

t he Avenger of t he oppr essed and t he Redeemer of t he l ost .

CHAPTER XVI I .

CONCLUSI ON.

Ther e can be no doubt t hat Davi d Li vi ngst one,

Page 165 of 182

as he knel t by t he r ude bed at I l al a, and commended

hi s soul t o God i n t he ear l y mor ni ng of May i , 1873,

l ooked on hi msel f as a beat en man. He had set hi s

hear t on f i ni shi ng of f hi s wor k i n t hi s l ast j our ney.

When he had f i xed t he det ai l s, whi l e wai t i ng at

Unyanyembe f or hi s men, he wr i t es : ' ' Thi s r out e

wi l l ser ve t o cer t i f y t hat no ot her sour ces of t he Ni l e

can come f r om t he sout h wi t hout bei ng seen by me.

No one wi l l cut me out af t er t hi s expl or at i on i s ac -

compl i shed, and may t he good Lor d of al l hel p me

t o show mysel f one of Hi s st out - hear t ed ser vant s, an

honor t o my chi l dr en, and per haps t o my count r y

and r ace. " No one can cut me out af t er t hi s i s

done! Ther e i s a t r ace of nat ur al human weakness

i n t he phr ase, and as t he t oi l some j our ney went on,

and st r engt h, t hough not hear t , was f ai l i ng, t her e

ar e ent r i es i n t he Jour nal such as t hi s on hi s l ast

bi r t hday: ' ' Mar ch i gt h. — Thanks t o t he Al mi ght y

Pr eser ver of men f or spar i ng me t hus f ar . Can I

hope f or ul t i mat e success ? So many obst acl es have

ar i sen. Let not Sat an pr evai l over me, oh ! my good

Lor d Jesus. "

284 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

A. f eel i ng whi ch no one woul d cal l mor bi d, but f or

whi ch i t i s di f f i cul t t o f i nd t he pr eci se phr ase, un-

doubt edl y gr ew upon hi m i n t hese l ast mont hs, t hat

he was engaged i n a per sonal encount er wi t h a per -

sonal power of evi l , i n whi ch deat h on t he r oad

woul d mean def eat .

Has not t he exper i ence of ever y mar t yr been t he

same ? The mor e per f ect t he sel f - sacr i f i ce i n l i f e, t he

mor e sur el y woul d t hi s shadow seem t o have hung

over t he l ast hour s of t he wor l d' s best and br avest ,

t he onl y per f ect l i f e bei ng not onl y no except i on, but

t he gr eat exempl ar of t he l aw. I t i s wr i t t en : " Ex -

cept a gr ai n of wheat di e i t bear et h no f r ui t . " Never

wer e t hose mi ght y wor ds i l l ust r at ed mor e per f ect l y

t han i n t he deat h of Davi d Li vi ngst one. The f i r st

f r ui t s r i pened wi t hi n a f ew hour s of t he mast er ' s

deat h. Susi and Chumah cal l ed t he men t oget her

out si de t he hut . Not a man of t he f i f t y - si x f al t er ed

f or a moment ; t hey had l ear ned much i n t hose ni ne

mont hs. " You ar e ol d men, " t hey sai d, " i n t r avel -

l i ng and har dshi ps. You must be our chi ef s. We

wi l l do what ever you or der . "

Susi and Chumah j ust i f i ed t he t r ust . The body

and al l t he pr oper t y must be car r i ed back t o Zanzi -

bar . So t hey r esol ved, and so i t was done.

They bur i ed t he hear t and ent r ai l s under a t r ee, on

whi ch Jacob Wai nwr i ght , one of t he Nassi cker boys,

t he schol ar of t he par t y, car ved t he name and dat e ;

Chi t ambo, who behaved i n a most f r i endl y way,

CONCLUSI ON. 285

Page 166 of 182

pr omi si ng t o keep t he gr ass cut and t he gr ave r e-

spect ed. They t hen dr i ed t he body and packed i t i n

bar k, t he pr ocess keepi ng t hem f our t een days.

Jacob Wai nwr i ght made an i nvent or y of t he con-

t ent s of t he t wo speci al t i n cases, i mper vi ous t o wat er

and ant s. " I n t he chest , " i t r uns, ' Svas f ound about

a shi ni ng and - J, and i n ot her chest hi s hat , i wat ch,

and 2 smal l boxes of measur i ng i nst r ument , and i n

each box t her e was one — i compass, 3 ot her ki nd of

measur i ng i nst r ument , 4 ot her ki nd of measur i ng i n-

st r ument , and i n ot her chest 3 dr achmas and hal f

hal f - scr opl e. " Besi des t hese, t her e wer e hi s r i f l es,

sext ant s, Bi bl e and chur ch- ser vi ce, and a number of

not e- books f i l l ed wi t h obser vat i ons. Al l wer e cat a-

l ogued, and on Febr uar y 15, 1874, del i ver ed t o t he

Engl i sh Consul at Zanzi bar , not an ar t i cl e mi ssi ng

except some of t he i nst r ument s. These had been

t aken out by Li eut enant Camer on, commandi ng one

of t he sear ch- expedi t i ons, on t hei r ar r i val at Unyan-

yembe on Oct ober 20t h. The Li eut enant advi sed

t he bur i al of t he body i n Af r i ca. Li vi ngst one, i n

si ght of a f or est - gr ave i n June, 1868, had wr i t t en:

" Thi s i s t he sor t of gr ave I shoul d pr ef er ; t o l i e i n

t he st i l l , st i l l f or est , and no hand ever t o di st ur b my

bones. Poor Mar y l i es on Shupanga br ae, and beeks

f or enent t he sun. " But t he f ai t hf ul bear er s woul d

not hear of t hi s. They had al l owed bul k t o be

br oken, and t he f ami l i ar i nst r ument s t aken out ,

but t he body of t hei r mast er must be t aken back

286 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t o hi s ol d home, f ar away acr oss t he gr eat

wat er s.

Thus t hey car r i ed Li vi ngst one t o t he sea, t hr ough

swamp, deser t , and al l t he i nt er veni ng t r i bes — super -

st i t i ous, dest i t ut e, of t en host i l e — wi t h onl y one col -

l i si on, when t hey wer e at t acked f i r st and had t o

st or m a vi l l age. The st or y st ands al one i n hi st or y.

The t en t housand had Xenophon st i l l al i ve t o l ead

t hem back, and t hey wer e sol di er s and Gr eeks; but

Li vi ngst one was dead, and hi s men negr oes, and

most of t hem r ecent l y f r eed sl aves. *

* 0n t he whol e, t hei r pr ogr ess was wonder f ul l y qui et and

r egul ar . Ever ywher e t hey f ound t hat t he news of t he Doct or ' s

deat h had got bef or e t hem. At one pl ace t hey hear d t hat a

par t y of Engl i shmen, headed by Dr . Li vi ngst one' s son, on

t hei r way t o r el i eve hi s f at her , had been seen at Bagamoi o

some mont hs pr evi ousl y. As t hey appr oached Unyanyembe,

t hey l ear ned t hat t he par t y was t her e, but when Chuma r an

on bef or e, he was di sappoi nt ed t o f i nd t hat Oswel l Li vi ng-

st one was not among t hem. Li eut enant Camer on, Dr . Di l l on,

and Li eut enant Mur phy wer e t her e, and hear d t he t i di ngs of

t he men wi t h deep emot i on. Camer on wi shed t hem t oi bur y

t he r emai ns wher e t hey wer e, and not r un t he r i sk of convey -

i ng t hem t hr ough t he Ugogo count r y; but t he men wer e i n-

f l exi bl e, det er mi ned t o car r y out t hei r f i r st i nt ent i on. Thi s

was not t he onl y i nt er f er ence wi t h t hese devot ed and f ai t hf ul

men. Consi der i ng how car ef ul l y t hey had gat her ed al l Li v -

i ngst one' s pr oper t y, and how consci ent i ousl y, at t he r i sk of

Page 167 of 182

t hei r l i ves, t hey wer e car r yi ng i t t o t he coast , t o t r ansf er i t t o

I t he Br i t i sh Consul t her e, i t was not war r ant abl e i n t he new-

' comer s t o t ake t he boxes f r om t hem, exami ne t hei r cont ent s,

and car r y of f a par t of t hem. Nor do we t hi nk Li eut enant

Camer on was ent i t l ed t o t ake away t he i nst r ument s wi t h

whi ch al l Li vi ngst one' s obser vat i ons had been made f or a

ser i es of seven year s, and use t hem, t hough onl y t empor ar i l y.

CONCLUSI ON. 2S7

Fr om Zanzi bar hi s bones wer e car r i ed on boar d

t he Queen' s shi p " Cal cut t a" t o Aden, f r om t hence

by P. and O. boat t o Sout hampt on, wher e t hey wxr e

r ecei ved wi t h al l honor , and f or war ded by speci al

t r ai n t o London on Apr i l i 6, 1874. * They wer e

exami ned by Si r Wi l l i am Fer gusson, i dent i f i ed by

t he f al se j oi nt i n t he ar m, and bur i ed i n t he cent r e

of t he nave of West mi nst er Abbey on Apr i l 19t h,

whi l e t he hear t of Engl and swel l ed wi t h gr i ef and

pr i de over one of her nobl est sons.

A f ew w^ or ds as t o t he f r ui t t hat gr ai n of mar t yr -

wheat has bor ne i n t he l ast si xt een year s, and t he

pr ospect of t he har vest i n 1889, may f i t l y cl ose our

sket ch. The Uni ver si t i es Mi ssi on cl ai ms t he f i r st

pl ace. We have seen t he ent husi asm wi t h whi ch

Li vi ngst one' s wor ds had been wel comed at Cam-

br i dge i n 1858, ' T know t hat i n a f ew year s I shal l

f or t he pur pose of hi s Expedi t i on, i nasmuch as he t her eby -

made i t i mpossi bl e so t o r educe Li vi ngst one' s obser vat i ons as

t hat cor r ect r esul t s shoul d be obt ai ned f r om t hem.

* To many per sons i t had appear ed so i ncr edi bl e t hat t he

r emai ns shoul d have been br ought f r om t he hear t of Af r i ca

♦t o London, t hat some concl usi ve i dent i f i cat i on of t he body

seemed t o be necessar y t o set al l doubt at r est . The st at e ot

t he ar m, t he one t hat had been br oken by t he l i on, suppl i ed

t he cr uci al evi dence. " Exact l y i n t he r egi on of t he at t ach-

ment of t he del t oi d t o t he humer us" ( sai d Si r Wi l l i am Fer -

gusson i n a cont r i but i on t o t he Lancet , Apr i l 18, 1874) , " t her e

wer e t he i ndi cat i ons of an obl i que f r act ur e. On movi ng t he

ar m t her e wer e t he i ndi cat i ons of an ununi t ed f r act ur e. A

cl oser i dent i f i cat i on and di ssect i on di spl ayed t he f al se j oi nt

t hat had so l ong ago been so wel l r ecogni zed by t hose who

had exami ned t he ar m i n f or mer days, . . . "

288 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

be cut of f i n t hat count r y, whi ch i s now open — do

not l et i t be shut agai n" ; how t he f i r st gal l ant ad-

vance l ed by Bi shop Mackenzi e, i n 1861, ended i n hi s

deat h and t he r et i r ement of t he headquar t er s of t he

mi ssi on t o Zanzi bar under hi s successor ; how t he ol d

pi oneer mour ned over t hat r et r eat . He di d not l i ve

t o see t hat t empor ar y abandonment of t he mai nl and

j ust i f y i t sel f . Fr om t he i sl and cent r e at Zanzi bar

t he Mi ssi on has now spr ead over one t housand mi l es

of t he nei ghbor i ng mai nl and. I t s st af f , i ncl udi ng

t he bi shop and t hr ee ar chdeacons, number s ni net y-

Page 168 of 182

seven, of whom t wo deacons and t hi r t y- t wo t eacher s

and r eader s ar e nat i ves, and ni net een Engl i sh l adi es.

I t s i ncome f or 1887 exceeded 15, 500. I t has t hr ee

st at i ons on t he i s l and and t en on t he mai nl and. The

i s l and s t at i ons ar e : ( i ) The ol d s l av e- mar k et i n t he

t own of Zanz i bar , f r om whi c h t he needs of al l t he

st at i ons ar e s uppl i ed as f ar as means al l ow, and i n

whi c h ar e t he bi s hop' s r es i denc e, when i n r ar e i nt er -

val s he r es t s f r om hi s c i r c ui t , t he t heol ogi c al s c hool ,

and a l ar ge di s pens ar y ; ( 2) Ki ungani , wher e t her e

i s a boy s ' t r ai ni ng- s c hool ; ( 3) Mbweni , wi t h i t s

, gi r l s ' s c hool and nat i v e s et t l ement of f r eed s l av es ,

f or y ear s a gr eat ex pens e, but now not onl y s el f -

suppor t i ng but c ont r i but i ng not a l i t t l e t o t he ex -

pens es of t he Mi s s i on by t he c ar pent er i ng and ot her

wor k done t her e f or t he mai nl and s t at i ons . Thes e

mai nl and s t at i ons f al l nat ur al l y i nt o t hr ee di s t r i c t s —

t he Rov uma, t he Ny as s a and t he Magi l a. Ther e

CONCLUSI ON. 289

ar e f our s t at i ons i n t he Rov uma di s t r i c t , bes i des

sc hool s and pr eac hi ng- hut s i n many nei ghbor i ng v i l -

l ages , and s i x Engl i s h wor k er s . The s uper i or c hi ef

of t he domi nant t r i be, Bar naba Mat uk a by name, i s

a c onv er t and a hear t y s uppor t er , and t her e i s a l ar ge

sc hool t o whi c h t he s ons of c hi ef s and t he r i c her

nat i v es c ome as boar der s . ' ' About t went y boy s s at

down wi t h us t o di nner ev er y day , " Bi s hop Smy t hi es

wr i t es i n hi s l as t r epor t . The c hi ef dr awbac k t o t hi s

di s t r i c t i s t he f ear of r ai ds by t he Gwangwar a, but

si nc e 1883 t her e has been no hos t i l e ac t i on on t he

par t of t hi s f i er c e t r i be, who hav e been v i s i t ed by

sev er al of t he mi s s i onar i es at t he r i s k of t hei r l i v es .

The c hi ef s t at i on of t he Ny as s a di s t r i c t i s on t he

i s l and of Luk oma, i n t he mi ddl e of t he l ak e. Her e,

and at t he t wo nei ghbor i ng s t at i ons on t he eas t c oas t ,

ni ne Engl i s hmen ar e at wor k under Ar c hdeac on

Mapl es , one of whom, t he Rev . W. P. J ohns on, t r av -

el s up and down t he eas t er n l ak e- s hor e i n t he

" Char l es J ans on" s t eamer , named af t er a wel l - l ov ed

mi s s i onar y ( ' ' our s ai nt l y br ot her , " t he bi s hop c al l s

hi m) , who di ed on t he s t at i on s ome y ear s bac k . " I

hope our c abi n, " Mr . J ohns on wr i t es , " wi l l bec ome

mor e and mor e of a s c hool c l as s - r oom and c hapel ,

t hough i t mus t be a s al oon, s l eepi ng- r oom, l i br ar y

and pant r y as wel l . Sev er al s i gns of r eal s pi r i t ual

i nf l uenc e s pr eadi ng hav e enc our aged us al l . "

The t hi r d, or Magi l a, di s t r i c t l i es i n Us umbar a.

some ei ght y mi l es t o t he nor t h of Zanz i bar , and i s

290 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

wor k ed by ni net een Engl i s h under Ar c hdeac on

Far l en Ther e ar e f our s t at i ons , Magi l a bei ng t he

cent r al one, whi c h has a f i ne s t one c hur c h and a

home f or one hundr ed and f i f t een boy s . Peac e and

sec ur i t y r ei gn now al l r ound t he Mi s s i on. * A mar -

Page 169 of 182

ket , at t ended r egul ar l y by f r om t wo t o t hr ee t hou-

sand t r ader s , i s es t abl i s hed c l os e by . ' ' The pl ac e i s

t he s c ene of t he bus i es t ac t i v i t y ; Engl i s h wor k i ng-

men of s ev er al t r ades ar e her e s ur r ounded by Af r i -

can appr ent i c es , and t he Af r i c an i s not onl y t aught

t o r ead and br ought t o k now God and Hi s l ov e, but

i s now wi l l i ng t o wor k r egul ar l y f or dai l y wages . "

A s i s t er hood t r ai ns l ar ge c l as s es of women. ' ' Thr ee

of our mos t pr omi s i ng t eac her s , " s ay s t he l as t Re-

por t , " ar e Mahomedan c onv er t s . " The di f f i c ul t y

of get t i ng hol d of t he boy s , who at f i r s t went of f

whenev er t hey wer e s pok en t o, has been ov er c ome,

one i s gl ad t o l ear n, by t he Rev . J . C. Key . He en-

t i c ed s ome of t he ol der boy s t o pl ay f oot bal l , and

" when t hey hav e t hor oughl y enj oy ed t hat t her e i s

some c hanc e of t hei r c omi ng r egul ar l y t o s c hool . So

i t i s di s t i nc t l y par t of one' s wor k , ev en i n a t r opi c al

cl i mat e, t o pl ay f oot bal l and amus e c hi l dr en t hat one

may wi n t hem. " One mor e ex t r ac t f r om t he Ar c h-

deac on' s l et t er s may be gi v en, i n v i ew of r ec ent di s -

cus s i on. " I n a number of v i l l ages i n t he nei ghbor -

hood of t hi s s t at i on, wher e I r emember s eei ng a

mos que a f ew y ear s ago, t her e i s now a s c hof ?* '

^ Nov ember , 1888. Al l i s now c hanged ( Mar c h, 1889) .

CONCLUSI ON. 291

chapel , whi l e t he mos ques hav e f al l en down and no

one r ebui l ds t hem. "

A gl anc e at t he map wi l l s how t hat whi l e t he Uni -

ver s i t i es Mi s s i on has r et ur ned t o t he mai nl and, and

t o t he s c ene of s ome of Li v i ngs t one' s bes t wor k , i t

has abandoned t he Shi r e di s t r i c t i n whi c h i t was f i r s t

pl ant ed, wher e ar e t he gr av es of f our out of t he f i v e

l eader s , * and f r om whi c h Mr . Hor ac e Wal l er , t he

sur v i v or , l ed away t he r emnant of f r eed men and

chi l dr en t o t he Cape i n 1864.

Thes e Shi r e hi ghl ands and t he di s t r i c t bey ond

t hem, bet ween t he wes t er n s hor e of Lak e Ny as s a and

t he eas t er n of Lak e Bangweol o, had been v er y dear

t o Li v i ngs t one. I n t he f or mer was t he s pot he had

chos en f or t he f i r s t s t at i on of t he Uni v er s i t i es Mi s -

si on, and her e hi s Mak ol ol o f ol l ower s had s et t l ed ; i n

t he l at t er was t he gr av e at I l al a, wher e he ended hi s

cour s e and hi s hear t was bur i ed i n 1874. I f t hes e

wer e t o be l ef t as t he hunt i ng- gr ound of t he Ar ab

sl av e- deal er s , s uc c es s i n ot her di s t r i c t s woul d hav e

l os t hal f i t s wor t h.

Happi l y , t hi s has not been s o. The Uni v er s i t i es

Mi s s i on has onl y not r et ur ned t o t hem bec aus e t hey

hav e been oc c upi ed by Li v i ngs t one' s own c ount r y -

men. As ear l y as 1863 t he Fr ee Ki r k had s ent t he

Rev . J as . St ewar t as a c ommi s s i oner t o r epor t on t he

pr os pec t s of mi s s i onar y wor k i n Ny as s al and. He

* Bi s hop Mac k enz i e, Rev . H. Sc udamor e, Rev . H. Bur r ows ,

and Dr . Di c k ens on.

Page 170 of 182

292 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

st ay ed wi t h Bi s hop Mac k enz i e and ex ami ned t he di s -

t r i c t ; but t he c ol l aps e of t he f i r s t ef f or t made hi m

adv i s e del ay ; meant i me he had bec ome t he head of

t he Mi s s i onar y Col l ege of Lov edal e i n Sout h Af r i c a.

When t he news of Li v i ngs t one' s deat h t hr i l l ed Eng-

l and and Sc ot l and i n 1874 i t wa3 f el t t hat t he t i me

had c ome. The adv anc e was s ounded by Dr . St ew-

ar t , and, l ay i ng as i de al l ec c l es i as t i c al r i v al r i es , t he

Es t abl i s hed Chur c h j oi ned hands wi t h t he Fr ee and

Uni t ed Pr es by t er i an Chur c hes i n ' ' The Mi s s i on t o

Ny as s a. ' ' Nobl y has t hat mi s s i on been c ar r i ed out ,

and pr ompt l y . I n May , 1875, Mr . ' Young, who had

so abl y c ommanded t he s ear c h f or Li v i ngs t one, l ed

t he adv anc e guar d up t he Zambes i and Shi r e t o t he

Mur c hi s on Fal l s , c ar r y i ng a s t eamer , t he " Hal a, " i n

sec t i ons . Thes e wer e c ar r i ed pas t t he s i x t y mi l es of

r api ds by t he Mak ol ol o. ' ' Ei ght hundr ed of t hes e

men wor k ed, and wor k ed des per at el y f or us , " Mr .

Young r ec or ds , " f r ee as ai r t o c ome or go as t hey

pl eas ed, ov er a r oad whi c h f ur ni s hed at al mos t ev er y

yar d an ex c us e f or an ac c i dent or hi di ng- pl ac e f or

t hi ef or des er t er , and y et at t he end of s i x t y mi l es

we had ev er y t hi ng del i v er ed up t o us unhur t and

unt amper ed wi t h, and ev er y man mer r y and c ont ent

wi t h hi s wel l - ear ned wages . "

The " Hal a" was put t oget her on t he Upper Shi r e,

and i s s t i l l r unni ng on Lak e Ny as s a. That s ame

year a c ent r al s t at i on was f ounded and named Bl an-

t y r e, on t he Shi r e hi ghl ands , hal f - way bet ween t he

CONCLUSI ON. 293

t wo des er t ed s t at i ons of t he Uni v er s i t i es Mi s s i on.

I t has gr own i nt o a power f ul s et t l ement , mar c hi ng

wi t h t he Mak ol ol o t er r i t or y , and ex t endi ng i t s i n-

f l uenc e up t o t he l ak e. Ther e i s a l ar ge s c hool wi t h

sev ent y - f i v e boar der s , t went y - f i v e bei ng t he s ons of

chi ef s . The nei ghbor hood i s wel l c ul t i v at ed, al l

t r opi c al f r ui t s abound i n t he gar dens , and t ea and

cof f ee pl ant at i ons hav e been s uc c es s f ul l y s t ar t ed.

Bes i des t he c hur c h and s c hool , t her e ar e f our br i c k

hous es ;

30, 000 has been ex pended at Bl ant y r e.

Ther e ar e s ub- s t at i ons at N' der ani , wher e i s a s c hool

of one hundr ed t aught by nat i v es under t he s uper i n-

t endenc e of Mr . Sc ot t , t he head mi s s i onar y , and hi s

st af f , and at Zomba, on t he s mal l l ak e Shi r wa.

Her e, i n t he Shi r e hi ghl ands , t he Es t abl i s hed Chur c h

of Sc ot l and has paus ed, whi l e her s i s t er Chur c hes

hav e c ar r i ed on t he wor k t o t he nor t h al l al ong t he

t hr ee hundr ed and s i x t y mi l es of t he wes t er n s hor e

of Lak e Ny as s a. Thei r s out her nmos t s t at i on i s on

t he bol d pr omont or y at t he s out h end of t he l ak e,

named Cape Mac l ear by Li v i ngs t one ; t hei r nor t her n,

Mweni wanda, f or t y mi l es on t he r oad t o Lak e Tan-

gany i k a. The mos t i mpor t ant s t at i on bet ween t hes e

t wo on t he wes t er n c oas t i s Bandawe, al mos t oppo-

si t e t o t he i s l and of Luk oma, t he s t at i on of t he Uni -

Page 171 of 182

ver si t i es Mi ssi on, and i n t he count r y of t he Angoni ,

t he most war l i ke t r i be of t hi s par t of Af r i ca. These,

as a r ul e, haught i l y di sdai n t o l i st en t o t he Gospel ,

but al l ow gr eat number s of t hei r chi l dr en t o at t en' d

294 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

t he mi ssi onar y school s, and t hemsel ves use f r eel y t he

ser vi ces of t he medi cal mi ssi ons. These have been

est abl i shed at each st at i on under f our or dai ned medi -

cal men, and t hei r pr ogr ess may be j udged by t he

f act t hat bet ween 1882 and 1884 t he r egi st er ed num-

ber of pat i ent s r ose f r om t wo t o t en t housand year l y

at Bandawe, t he chi ef medi cal st at i on. I n t he

t wel ve year s Scot l and has sent out f or t y- t hr ee of her

sons and daught er s, t en of whom have di ed at t hei r

post s, and has expended 45, 000 and upwar d on t he

Mi s s i on, t he annual out l ay bei ng now upwar d of

4, 000. Per haps t he mos t not ewor t hy of al l t he

Sc ot c h mi s s i onar y wor k has been done amongs t t he

Angoni by Caf f r e pupi l s of Dr . St ewar t , t r ai ned at

Lov edal e and s ent amongs t t hi s t r i be, who s t i l l r et ai n

t he Caf f r e t ongue i n t hei r nor t her n home.

Not c ont ent wi t h mi s s i onar y wor k , Li v i ngs t one' s

count r y men hav e been dev el opi ng l egi t i mat e t r ade,

whi c h he hel d t o be onl y nex t i n i mpor t anc e. The

Af r i c an Lak es Company , f ounded t o as s i s t t he Mi s -

si ons and s ubs t i t ut e f r ee i ndus t r i es f or t he s l av e-

t r ade, hav e been at wor k now f or mor e t han t wel v e

year s .

The Company s t ar t ed on a s mal l s c al e, and hav e

st eadi l y pus hed on, wi t h al l t he s hr ewdnes s and per -

si s t enc e of t hei r r ac e, unt i l t hey hav e t wel v e t r adi ng-

st at i ons — t he s out her nmos t , Kongone, at t he pr i nc i -

pal mout h of t he Zambes i ; t he nor t her nmos t , Pam-

bet e, at t he s out her n end of Lak e Tangany i k a. They

CONCLUSI ON. 295

hav e t hus gone f ar ahead of t he Sc ot c h Mi s s i ons ,

hav i ng c r os s ed t he di s t r i c t bet ween t he t wo l ak es ,

ov er whi c h t hey hav e made a r oad, named St ev en-

son' s , af t er one of t he pi oneer s . They hav e t hr ee

st eamer s on t he Zambes i , Shi r e and Lak e Ny as s a,

and hav e t r ans por t ed a f our t h f or t he London Mi s -

si onar y Soc i et y t o Lak e Tangany i k a. They buy

i v or y , i ndi a- r ubber , wax , oi l and ot her pr oduc t s

f r om t he nat i v es , and hav e i nt r oduc ed i ndi go, t ea,

cof f ee, c hi nc hona and ot her v al uabl e pl ant s . Hi t h-

er t o t hey hav e s uc c eeded i n s t oppi ng t he l i quor t r af f i c

i n t he l ak e di s t r i c t s .

Si de by s i de wi t h t he Company , t he f i r m of

Buc hanan Br ot her s i s doi ng t he v er y wor k whi c h

Li v i ngs t one l onged t o s ee begun i n t he Shi r e hi gh-

l ands , and on t hei r pl ant at i ons ar e gr owi ng c of f ee,

sugar and c hi nc hona by nat i v e l abor , t hus pi t t i ng

f r eedom agai ns t s l av er y i n t he mos t c r i t i c al poi nt on

Page 172 of 182

t he whol e Dar k Cont i nent . Thei r pl ant at i ons ar e,

i n f ac t , an of f s hoot of t he Mi s s i on, t he s eni or par t ner

hav i ng gone out as gar dener wi t h t he f i r s t mi s s i on-

ar i es . Thei r pl ant at i ons , of one, t wo and t hr ee

t hous and ac r es , r es pec t i v el y , ar e on l ands gr ant ed by

nat i v e c hi ef s , at Bl ant y r e and on Mount Zomba,

wher e t he f i r m hav e bui l t a hous e f or t he Cons ul

whom Engl and s t i l l mai nt ai ns t her e.

Las t l y , t he Chur c h Mi s s i onar y Soc i et y has t ak en

gr ound t o t he nor t hwes t , on Lak es Tangany i k a and

Vi c t or i a Ny anz a, On eac h of t hes ^ t hey hav e ^

396 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

St eamer , and i n s pi t e of t he mur der of t he f i r s t bi s hop

hav e managed t o hol d t hei r own, t hough obHged t o

abandon t he s t at i on at Uj i j i , wher e Ar ab i nf l uenc e

i s par amount . Bes i des t hei r s t at i ons on Vi c t or i a

Ny anz a t hey hav e an i s l and on Tangany i k a, and an-

ot her s t at i on on t he hi ghl ands t o t he s out h of t hat

l ak e.

Suc h, t hen, i s t he pos i t i on whi c h Br i t i s h dev ot i on

and ener gy hav e won on t he s c ene of Li v i ngs t one' s

l abor s i n Eas t Cent r al Af r i c a. The gener al r es ul t

may be gi v en i n t he wor ds of an Af r i c an ex pl or er by

no means i nc l i ned t o be an i ndul gent c r i t i c of mi s -

si onar y wor k : * ' The s t eamer s of Br i t i s h Mi s s i onar y

Soc i et i es may now be s een pl y i ng on Tangany i k a

and Ny as s a, t he Upper Congo, t he Ni ger , Bi nne and

Zambes i . , . . To Br i t i s h mi s s i onar i es many

di s t r i c t s of t r opi c al Af r i c a owe t he or ange, l i me,

mango, t he c oc oanut pal m and pi neappl e, i mpr ov ed

br eeds of poul t r y , pi geons and many us ef ul v ege-

t abl es . . . . The ar r i v al of t he f i r s t mi s s i onar y

i s l i k e t hat of one of t he s t r ange, hal f - my t hi c al per -

sonal i t i es whi c h f i gur ed i n t he l egends of ol d Amer i -

can empi r es , t he benef i c ent bei ng who i nt r oduc es

ar t s and manuf ac t ur es , i mpl ement s of hus bandr y ,

edi bl e f r ui t s , medi c al dr ugs , c er eal s and domes t i c

ani mal s . . .

„ They hav e made 200 t r ans l at i ons

of t he Bi bl e i n nat i v e l anguages , w^ i t h gr ammar s and

di c t i onar i es . " Thes e r es ul t s , howev er , hav e not been

♦Mr . H. H. J ohns t on, Ni net eent h Cent ur y , 1887, p. 723.

CONCLUSI ON. 297

at t ai ned wi t hout r ous i ng al ar m, enmi t y and open

ant agoni s m. The Ar ab t r ader s s c at t er ed al l ov er

Cent r al Af r i c a hav e, f r om t he f i r s t , r ec ogni z ed t he

f ac t t hat t he s uc c es s of Br i t i s h mi s s i onar y and c om-

mer c i al s t at i ons and pl ant at i ons meant i n t i me t he

cer t ai n ex t i nc t i on of t he s l av e- t r ade, by whi c h t hei r

pr of i t s ar e made, and hav e us ed ev er y means of ex -

ci t i ng t he f ear s and j eal ous i es of t he nat i v e t r i bes

and c hi ef s . They hav e nev er c eas ed t r y i ng t o r ous e

t he t r i bes t o dr i v e out t he mi s s i onar i es , but hi t her t o

wi t h no s uc c es s . I ndeed, s o f ar as t he Lak e Ny as s a

Page 173 of 182

di s t r i c t i s c onc er ned, t her e wer e s i gns t i l l l at el y t hat

t he l eadi ng Ar abs wer e abandoni ng t he s l av e- t r ade,

or c ar r y i ng i t i nt o ot her di s t r i c t s .

But a gr eat c hange i n t he s i t uat i on has oc c ur r ed

dur i ng t he l as t y ear , and a c r i s i s has ar i s en whi c h

has br ought t o a head t he Cent r al and Eas t Af r i c an

cont r ov er s y bet ween c r os s and c r es c ent , t he s l av e-

t r ade and f r ee i ndus t r y . No Engl i s hman wi l l doubt

t he f i nal i s s ue :

" Set t he t wo f or c es f oot t o f oot , ,

And ev er y man k nows who' l l be wi nner , '

Whos e f ai t h i n God has any r oot

That goes down deeper t han hi s di nner . "

But i t i s equal l y c er t ai n t hat t he v i c t or y has y et t o be

won, and wi l l not be won eas i l y .

I n t hi s c r i s i s — i n t hes e ear l y mont hs of 1889 i n i t s

ac ut e phas e, and c hangi ng al mos t f r om day t o day

— t he nobl es t and wi s es t mi s s i onar y wor k whi c h

^ 98 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Engl and has ev er done i s i n s or e j eopar dy . I t i s wel l

t hat t hi s s houl d be k nown and t ak en t o hear t as

wi del y as pos s i bl e. Had no di s t ur bi ng i nf l uenc es

come f r om out s i de, t he bat t l e was pr ac t i c al l y won i n

t he di s t r i c t s of t he Uni v er s i t i es Cent r al Af r i c an

Mi s s i on.

Under t he i nf l uenc e of Si r J ohn Ki r k and hi s s uc -

ces s or , and of Bi s hops St er ne and Smy t hi es , t he Sul -

t an of Zanz i bar had bec ome a l oy al f r i end t o t he

Engl i s h Mi s s i ons and t r ader s on t he c oas t , wher e hi s

aut hor i t y was ac k nowl edged. Fr om t he Rov uma i n

t he s out h t o Us umbar a i n t he nor t h, i t was ex er c i s ed

f r ank l y i n t hei r f av or , unt i l ev er y mi s s i on s t at i on

had bec ome a c ent r e of c i v i l i z at i on, f r om whi c h

peac e and or der wer e s pr eadi ng. Ev en i n t he i n-

l and, or Ny as s a, di s t r i c t , wher e t hat aut hor i t y was

sc ar c el y r ec ogni z ed, t he pr ogr es s was l i t t l e l es s s at i s -

f ac t or y .

The s t or m has now, howev er , bur s t upon t hem

f r om t wo quar t er s , wat h t he r es ul t t hat i n t hes e ear l y

mont hs of 1889 t he men at mos t of t he Mi s s i ons ar e

br av el y hol di ng on at t he r i s k of t hei r l i v es , and t he

women hav e been war ned by t he Engl i s h Cons ul t o

wi t hdr aw t o Zanz i bar . The c aus es of t hi s out br eak

ar e s ev er al . Fi r s t , t he t empor ar y c ol l aps e of t he

Congo Fr ee St at e i n t he f ar nor t hwes t . Thi s has

r ev i v ed t he i nt er nal s l av e- t r ade. The Ar abs , af t er

t ak i ng t he c hi ef s t at i on on t he Upper Congo, hav e

es t abl i s hed t hei r s upr emac y i n al l t he c ount r y wes t

Page 174 of 182

CONCLUSI ON. 299

and s out h of Lak e Tangany i k a, whi l e t hei r t r i umph

has been mar k ed by mas s ac r es as at r oc i ous as t hos e

wi t nes s ed by Li v i ngs t one i n 1871 on t he Lual aba.

' As was t o be l ook ed f or , t he wav e t hen s wept eas t -

war d, and i n t he l at e aut umn of 1887 br ok e on t he

count r y i n whi c h ar e t he nor t hwes t er nmos t s t at i ons

of t he Fr ee Chur c h of Sc ot l and and t he Cent r al

Af r i c an Company . I n t he aut umn of 1887 t he Ar ab

i nv as i on c ame down t he St ev ens on r oad, and, af t er

car r y i ng f i r e and s l aught er i nt o t he t r i bes bor der i ng

on t he r oad, on Nov ember 3d appear ed i n f or c e

bef or e t he Af r i c an Lak es Company ' s s t at i on of Ka-

r onga. At t hat moment t her e wer e onl y t wo whi t e

men t her e, one bei ng a mi s s i onar y , t he ot her a s er -

vant of t he Af r i c an Lak es Company . On t he 4t h,

f or t unat el y , t he s t eamer br ought up Mr . Shar p, an

el ephant hunt er , and t wo ot her s , and on t he 6t h Con-

sul Hawes and Mr . Ni c ol l , t he agent of t he Af r i c an

Lak es Company , c ame i n. They wer e j us t i n t i me,

f or wi t hi n a f ew day s t hey wer e c l os el y bes i eged,

sev en Engl i s hmen wi t h a c r owd of nat i v e f ugi t i v es .

They had s i x t y - f our guns i n al l , but f or s i x t een of

t hes e, whi c h wer e c has s epot s , onl y ei ght r ounds of

car t r i dge. Af t er a f or t ni ght of c ons t ant al ar ms , t he

Ar abs t r i ed t o s t or m on t he 23d and 24t h, but wer e

beat en bac k . On t he 26t h a s t oc k ade whi c h t he

Ar abs had t hr own up c l os e t o t he def ens e wor k s was

gal l ant l y f i r ed by t wo nat i v es and ent i r el y des t r oy ed.

On t he 27t h t he s i ege was r ai s ed on t he appr oac h of

300 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

a l ar ge nat i v e f or c e f r om t he nor t h, whi c h had r al -

l i ed f or t he s uc c or of t he s t at i on. Thr ough 1888

t he Company hav e been abl e t o hol d t hei r own, but i t

i s v er y doubt f ul how l ong t hey may be abl e t o do s o.

Agai n, t he r ec ent r ev ol ut i on i n Uganda has

br ought t hat v as t di s t r i c t pr ac t i c al l y onc e mor e

under Ar ab c ont r ol . The Engl i s h Chur c h Mi s s i ons

and t he Fr enc h Mi s s i ons hav e had t o be abandoned,

and t hei r s t at i ons and goods , i nc l udi ng l ar ge s up-

pl i es and an ac c umul at i on of l et t er s wai t i ng f or Mr .

St anl ey , hav e been des t r oy ed.

But t he s or es t t r i al and gr eat es t danger hav e c ome

f r om t he c oas t , and f r om an unex pec t ed quar t er .

Under t he t r eat y , whi c h was t he r es ul t of t he hunger

of t he nat i ons of Eur ope f or Af r i c an t er r i t or y ( s o

r emar k abl y dev el oped s i nc e t he openi ng of t he Suez

Canal ) , t he pr ot ec t or at e ov er t hi s s ec t i on of t he eas t

coas t , i nc l udi ng t he Rov uma and Us umbar a di s -

t r i c t s , has pas s ed t o t he Ger mans . I t i s us el es s t o i n-

qui r e how t he as s ent of Engl and was gai ned t o t hi s

ar r angement . I t has been gi v en, and t he t wo c oun-

t r i es ar e now i n al l i anc e bl oc k adi ng t he c oas t f or t he

suppr es s i on of t he s l av e- t r ade and of t he i mpor t a-

t i on of f i r ear ms and s pi r i t s .

Unhappi l y , t he Ger man Gov er nment had l i t t l e

Page 175 of 182

sy mpat hy wi t h t he nat i onal as pi r at i on whi c h r es ul t ed

i n t hi s t r eat y and pr ot ec t or at e, s o a c ommer c i al c om-

pany was ent r us t ed wi t h t he wor k of c ol oni z at i on

wi t hi n t he Ger man s pher e of i nf l uenc e. Ut t er l y

CONCLUSI ON. 301

unus ed t o s uc h wor k , wi t hout s et t l ement s or s t at i ons

i n t he c ount r y , wi t h no s y mpat hy f or t he nat i v es , and

eager onl y f or t he gai ns whi c h i t was s uppos ed

woul d pour i n f r om t hes e r i c h t r opi c al l ands , t he

Ger man Af r i c an Company hav e made a c ompl et e

f ai l ur e. I t i s needl es s t o dwel l on t hei r hi gh- handed

pr oc eedi ngs , whi c h hav e r ous ed t he whol e c ount r y

and banded t he whol e nat i v e and Ar ab popul at i on

t oget her agai ns t t he Ger mans . The Company hav e

pr ac t i c al l y ac k nowl edged t hei r f ai l ur e by appeal i ng

t o t he Ger man Par l i ament f or hel p. I n t he l as t f ew

week s t hi s has been gr ant ed, but i n an ut t er l y i nade-

quat e and hal f - hear t ed way . A s um of

100, 000

onl y has been v ot ed, wi t h whi c h Capt ai n Wi s s man i s

t o equi p and or gani z e a f or c e t o br i ng t he c oas t i nt o

or der and s ubj ec t i on! The Gov er nment wi l l t ak e

no f ur t her r es pons i bi l i t y i n t he mat t er t han t he ap-

poi nt ment of a c ommi s s i oner t o r epor t at home on

t he Company ' s doi ngs . For t he r es t . Pr i nc e Bi s -

mar c k dec l ar es t hat he " nev er was a man f or c ol o-

ni es , " and has gr av e appr ehens i ons as t o t hi s Af r i -

can adv ent ur e; ' ' Ger many bei ng now t her e mus t

st ay , but wi l l t ak e no s t ep i n Eas t Af r i c a whi c h Eng-

l and di s appr ov es . " She has t he ex per i enc e whi c h

Ger many needs , and t he t wo c ount r i es ar e " wedded

t oget her " i n t hei r pol i c y now, as t hey hav e been f or

one hundr ed and f i f t y y ear s !

Suc h as s ur anc es wi l l t ak e Engl i s hmen by s ur pr i s e,

as t he gr eat Chanc el l or ' s at t i t ude t owar d Engl and

302 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

has s c ar c el y of l at e been c or di al , s t i l l l es s def er en-

t i al . They s houl d, nev er t hel es s , be f r ank l y wel c omed

by Engl and. For , s hr i nk f r om i t as we may , i t

st ands out on t he f ac e of r ec ent hi s t or y t hat t hi s

bur t hen i s one whi c h i n God' s pr ov i denc e we hav e t o

bear . We c annot wi t hdr aw f r om Eas t Af r i c a i f we

woul d, and l et us hope t hat i f we c oul d t her e ar e f ew

Engl i s hmen who woul d be c owar dl y enough t o c oun-

sel s o unwor t hy a s t ep ; on t he ot her hand, we c annot

now c ar r y out t he wor k s i ngl e- handed, f or al r eady

f our Eur opean Power s , bes i des Tur k ey , ar e engaged

on t he pr obl em. Of t hes e, Por t ugal i s s t i l l , as s he

was i n Li v i ngs t one' s day , openl y c onni v i ng at t he

sl av e- t r ade, and has been as s er t i ng a c l ai m t o c l os e

t he Zambes i , on whi c h s he has nev er had a s t at i on

hi gher t han Tet t e, and t he Shi r e, whi c h s he has

nev er ex pl or ed, and on whi c h s he has no s t at i on.

The Fr enc h, s ad t o s ay , ar e al s o c onni v i ng at t he

oc ean s l av e- t r ade on t he eas t c oas t , and, mor eov er ,

wi l l nev er wor k wi t h us whi l e we r emai n i n Egy pt ,

Page 176 of 182

The I t al i ans have t hei r hands f ul l f ar nor t h of Zan-

zi bar , and of t he Engl i sh and Ger man ' ' spher es of

i nf l uence" wher e t he pr obl em has t o be sol ved. The

Ger mans r emai n. We ar e i n al l i ance wi t h t hem

al r eady so f ar as t he bl ockade i s concer ned, and t hei r

Emi n Pacha i s st i l l st andi ng manf ul l y t o t he wor k

whi ch our Gor don l ef t t o hi m i n t he Soudan. They

have al r eady t r i ed t hei r own way and f ai l ed. I s i t

t oo much t o hope t hat t he st r ong ol d Chancel l or , t he

CONCLUSI ON. 303

t nost t hor oughl y r epr esent at i ve man whom Ger many

has br ed si nce Lut her , may be speaki ng hi s nat i on' s

( mi nd when he decl a| - es t hat i n t he f ut ur e " Ger many

wi l l t ake no st ep i n East Af r i ca whi ch Engl and di s -

>' appr oves" ?

I t may be t oo good news t o be t r ue ; but i t i s wor t h

accept i ng as t hough i t wer e t r ue, and st r ai ni ng ever y

ner ve, and maki ng any sacr i f i ce, shor t of abandoni ng

Li vi ngst one' s pr i nci pl es and met hods wi t h t he na-

t i ves, t o make i t so. May t he nobl e band of Eng-

l i shmen, cl er i cal and l ay, who ar e f ol l owi ng so f ai t h-

f ul l y t he pat h whi ch Li vi ngst one, Mackenzi e and

Hanni ngt on, and t he br ave men, t hei r f el l ow- wor k-

er s, have t r od bef or e t hem, r ecogni ze t hi s as t he pr es -

ent dut y whi ch God who has cal l ed t hem t o t hi s

mi ght y and benef i cent t ask now r equi r es of t hem;

and may He who al one can or der t he unr ul y wi l l s of

st at esmen and nat i ons, keep Engl and and Ger many

t r ue t o t he mi ssi on t hey have under t aken! Then

one of t he dar kest pages i n t he wor l d' s dar k hi st or y

v/ i l l have been t ur ned, and our chi l dr en, i f not we,

may see a r edeemed Af r i ca.

[ t he end. ]

APPENDI X

" Dr oop hal f - mast col or s, bow, bar eheaded cr owds,

As t hi s pl ai n cof f i n o' er t he si de i s sl ung.

To pass by woods of mast s and r at l i ned shr ouds.

As er st by Af r i c' s t r unks, l i ana- hung.

" ' Ti s t he l ast mi l e of many t housands t r od

Wi t h f ai l i ng st r engt h but never - f ai Hng wi l l .

By t he wor n f r ame, now at i t s r est wi t h God,

That never r est ed f r om i t s f i ght wi t h i l l .

" Or i f t he ache of t r avel and of t oi l

Woul d somet i mes wr i ng a shor t , shar p cr y of pai n

Fr om agony of f ever , bl ai n, and boi l ,

Page 177 of 182

' Twas but t o cr ush i t down and on agai n!

" He knew not t hat t he t r umpet he had bl own

Out of t he dar kness of t hat di smal l and.

Had r eached and r oused an ar my of i t s own

To st r i ke t he chai ns f r om t he sl ave' s f et t er ed hand.

" Now we bel i eve, he knows, sees al l i s wel l ;

How God had st ayed hi s wi l l and shaped hi s way,

To br i ng t he l i ght t o t hose t hat dar kl i ng dwel l

Wi t h gai ns t hat l i f e' s devot i on wel l r epay.

" Open t he Abbey door s and bear hi m i n

To sl eep wi t h ki ng and st at esman, chi ef and sage.

The mi ssi onar y come of weaver - ki n,

But gr eat by wor k t hat br ooks no l ower wage.

" He needs no epi t aph t o guar d a name

Whi ch men shal l pr i ze whi l e wor t hy wor k i s known ;

He l i ved and di ed f or good — ^ be t hat hi s f ame:

Let mar bl e cr umbl e: t hi s i s Li vi ng — st one. "

— Punch.

90S

306 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" London, Feb. i 8t h, 1874.

" Dear Mi ss Li vi ngst one, — I am onl y one of al l

Engl and whi ch i s f eel i ng wi t h you and f or you at t hi s

moment .

" But Si r Bar t l e Fr er e encour ages me t o wr i t e t o you.

" We cannot hel p st i l l year ni ng t o hear of some hope

t hat your gr eat f at her may be st i l l al i ve.

" God knows ; and i n knowi ng t hat He knows who i s

al l wi sdom, goodness, and power , we must f i nd our

r est .

" He has t aken away, i f at l ast i t be as we f ear , t he

gr eat est man of hi s gener at i on, f or Dr . Li vi ngst one

st ood al one.

" Ther e ar e f ew enough, but a f ew st at esmen. Ther e

ar e f ew enough, but a f ew gr eat i n medi ci ne, or i n ar t ,

or i n poet r y. Ther e ar e a f ew gr eat t r avel l er s. But

Dr . Li vi ngst one st ood al one as t he gr eat Mi ssi onar y

Tr avel l er , t he br i nger - i n of ci vi l i zat i on; or r at her t he

pi oneer of ci vi l i zat i on — he t hat comet h bef or e — t o r aces

l yi ng i n dar kness.

" I al ways t hi nk of hi m as what John t he Bapt i st ,

had he been l i vi ng i n t he ni net eent h cent ur y, woul d

have been.

" Dr . Li vi ngst one' s f ame was so wor l d- wi de t hat

Page 178 of 182

t her e wer e ot her nat i ons who under st ood hi m even

bet t er t han we di d.

" Lear ned phi l ol ogi st s f r om Ger many, not at al l

or t hodox i n t hei r opi ni ons, have yet t ol d me t hat Dr .

Li vi ngst one was t he onl y man who under st ood r aces,

and how t o deal wi t h t hem f or good ; t hat he was t he

one t r ue mi ssi onar y. We cannot consol e our sel ves f or

our l c>ss. He i s i r r epl aceabl e.

APPENDI X. 307

" I t i s not sad t hat he shoul d have di ed out t her e.

Per haps i t was t he t hi ng, much as he year ned f or home,

t hat was t he f i t t i ng end f or hi m. He may have f el t i t

so hi msel f .

" But woul d t hat he coul d have compl et ed t hat whi ch

he of f er ed hi s l i f e t o God t o do !

" I f God t ook hi m, however , i t was t hat hi s l i f e was

compl et ed i n God' s si ght ; hi s wor k f i ni shed, t he most

gl or i ous wor k of our gener at i on.

" He has opened t hose count r i es f or God t o ent er i n.

He st r uck t he f i r st bl ow t o abol i sh a hi deous sl ave-

t r ade.

" He, l i ke St ephen, was t he f i r st mar t yr .

" ' He cl i mbed t he st eep ascent of heaven.

Thr ough per i l , t oi l , and pai n;

O God ! t o us may gr ace be gi ven

To f ol l ow i n hi s t r ai n! '

" To US i t i s ver y dr ear y, not t o have seen hi m agai n,

t hat he shoul d have had none of us by hi m at t he l ast ;

no l ast wor d or message.

" I f eel t hi s wi t h r egar d t o my dear f at her and one

who was mor e t han mot her t o me, Mr s. Br acebr i dge,

who went wi t h me t o t he Cr i mean war , bot h of whom

wer e t aken f r om me l ast mont h.

" How much mor e must we f eel i t , wi t h r egar d t o our

gr eat di scover er and her o, dyi ng so f ar of f !

" But does he r egr et i t ? How much he must know

now ! how much he must have enj oyed !

" Though how much we woul d gi ve t o know hi s

t hought s, al one wi t h God, dur i ng t he l at t er days of hi s

Ji f e,

308 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

" May we not say, wi t h ol d Baxt er ( somet hi i

al t e- r ed f r om t hat ver se) ?

" ' My knowl edge of t hat l i f e i s smal l .

Page 179 of 182

The eye of f ai t h i s di m;

But ' t i s enough t hat Chr i st knows al l ,

And he wi l l be wi t h Hi m. '

" Let us t hi nk onl y of hi m and of hi s pr esent happi -

♦ness, hi s et er nal happi ness, and may God say t o us :

' Let not your hear t be t r oubl ed. ' Let us exchange a

' God bl ess you, ' and f et ch a r eal bl essi ng f r om God i n

sayi ng so.

" Fl or ence Ni ght i ngal e/ ^

I n gl anci ng at t hese r esul t s of Li vi ngst one' s i n-

f l uence i n t he mi ssi on f i el d, we must not f or get t hat of

al l hi s l egaci es t o Af r i ca by f ar t he hi ghest was t he

spot l ess name and br i ght Chr i st i an char act er whi ch

have become associ at ed ever ywher e wi t h i t s gr eat mi s-

si onar y expl or er . Fr om t he f i r st day of hi s soj our n i n

Af r i ca t o t he l ast , " pat i ent cont i nuance i n wel l - doi ng'

was t he gr eat char m t hr ough whi ch he sought , wi t h

God' s bl essi ng, t o wi n t he conf i dence of Af r i ca. Bef or e

t he poor est Af r i can he mai nt ai ned sel f - r est r ai nt and

sel f - r espect as car ef ul l y as i n t he best soci et y at home.

No pr evai l i ng r el axat i on of t he mor al code i n t hose

wi l d, dar k r egi ons ever l ower ed hi s t one or l essened hi s

r egar d f or t he pr opr i et i es of Chr i st i an or ci vi l i zed l i f e.

Scandal i s so r ampant among t he nat i ves of Af r i ca t hat

even men of hi gh char act er have somet i mes suf f er ed

f r om i t s l yi ng t ongue; but i n t he case of Li vi ngst one

t her e was such an enamel of pur i t y upon hi s char act er

t hat no f i l t h coul d st i ck t o i t , and none was t hr own.

APPENDI X. - 509

t Vhat Li vi ngst one di d i n or der t o keep hi s won' t o hi s

poor at t endant s was a wonder i n Af r i ca, as i t was t he

admi r at i on of t he wor l d. Hi s way of t r ust i ng t hem,

t oo, was si ngul ar l y wi nni ng. He woul d go up t o a

f i er ce chi ef , sur r ounded by hi s gr i nni ng war r i or s, wi t h

t he same easy gai t and ki ndl y smi l e wi t h whi ch he

woul d have appr oached hi s f r i ends at Kur uman or

Hami l t on. I t was t he hi ghest t r i but e t hat t he sl ave-

t r ader s i n t he Zambesi di st r i ct pai d t o hi s char act er

when f or t hei r own vi l e ends t hey t ol d t he peopl e t hat

t hey wer e t he chi l dr en of Li vi ngst one. I t was t he

char m of hi s name t hat enabl ed Mr . E. D. Young,

whi l e engaged i n f oundi ng t he Li vi ngst oni a set t l ement ,

t o obt ai n si x hundr ed car r i er s t o t r anspor t t he pi eces of

t he I l al a st eamer past t he Mur chi son Cat ar act s, car r y -

i ng l oads of gr eat wei ght f or f or t y mi l es, at si x yar ds

of cal i co each, wi t hout a si ngl e pi ece of t he vessel bei ng

l ost or t hr own away. The nobl e conduct of t he band

t hat f or ei ght mont hs car r i ed hi s r emai ns t owar d t he

coast was a cr owni ng pr oof of t he l ove he i nspi r ed.

That ear l y and l i f e- l ong pr ayer of Li vi ngst one^ s —

t hat he mi ght r esembl e Chr i st — was f ul f i l l ed i n no or di -

nar y degr ee. I t wi l l be an i mmense benef i t t o al l

f ut ur e mi ssi onar i es i n Af r i ca t hat , i n expl ai ni ng t o t he

peopl e what pr act i cal Chr i st i ani t y means, t hey wi l l have

but t o poi nt t o t he l i f e and char act er of t he man whose

name wi l l st and f i r st among Af r i can benef act or s i n

Page 180 of 182

cent ur i es t o come. A f or ei gner has r emar ked t hat , " i n

t he ni net eent h cent ur y, t he whi t e has made a man out

of t he bl ack; i n t he t went i et h cent ur y, Eur ope wi l l

make a wor l d out of Af r i ca. ' ^ When t hat wor l d i s

made, and ^ f ener at i on af t er gener at i on of i nt el l i gent

310 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

Af r i cans l ook back on i t s begi nni ngs, as Engl and l ooks

back on t he days of Ki ng Al f r ed, I r el and of St . Pat -

r i ck, Scot l and of St . Col umba, or t he Uni t ed St at es of

Geor ge Washi ngt on, t he name t hat wi l l be enci r cl ed by

t hem wi t h br i ght est honor i s t hat of Davi d Li vi ng-

st one. Mabot sa, Chonuane, and Kol obeng wi l l be

vi si t ed wi t h t hr i l l i ng i nt er est by many a pi l gr i m, and

some gr and memor i al pi l e i n I l al a wi l l mar k t he spot

wher e hi s hear t r eposes. And when pr eacher s and

t eacher s speak of t hi s man, when f at her s t el l t hei r chi l -

dr en what Af r i ca owes t o hi m, and when t he quest i on

i s asked what made hi m so gr eat and so good, t he

answer wi l l be, t hat he l i ved by t he f ai t h of t he Son of

God, and t hat t he l ove of Chr i st const r ai ned hi m t o l i ve

and di e f or Af r i ca.

PUBLI C HONORS AWARDED TO DR. LI VI NGSTONE.

A compl et e l i st of t hese honor s i s not easy t o con-

st r uct ; t he f ol l owi ng may be r egar ded as embr aci ng t he

chi ef , but i t does not embr ace mer e addr esses pr esent ed

t o hi m, of whi ch t her e wer e many :

1850. Royal Geogr aphi cal Soci et y of London awar d

hi m t he Royal Donat i on of 25 gui neas pl aced

by Her Maj est y at t he di sposal of t he Counci l

( Si l ver Chr onomet er ) .

1854. Fr ench Geogr aphi cal Soci et y awar d a Si l ver

Medal .

1854. Uni ver si t y of Gl asgow conf er degr ee of LL. D.

1855. Royal Geogr aphi cal Soci et y of London awar d

Pat r on' s Gol d Medal .

APPENDI X. 311

1857. Fr ench Geogr aphi cal Soci et y awar d annual pr i ze

f or t he most i mpor t ant geogr aphi cal di s-

cover y.

' 1857. Fr eedom of ci t y of London, i n box of val ue of

50 gui neas, as a t est i moni al i n r ecogni t i on of

hi s zeal ous and per sever i ng exer t i ons i n t he

i mpor t ant di scover i es he has made i n Af r i ca,

by whi ch geogr aphi cal , geol ogi cal , and t hei r

ki ndr ed sci ences have been advanced ; f act s

ascer t ai ned t hat may ext end t he t r ade and

Page 181 of 182

commer ce of t hi s count r y, and her eaf t er

secur e t o t he nat i ve t r i bes of t he vast Af r i can

cont i nent t he bl essi ngs of knowl edge and

ci vi l i zat i on.

t ^ S7' Fr eedom of ci t y of Gl asgow, pr esent ed i n t est i -

mony of admi r at i on of hi s undaunt ed i nt r e-

pi di t y and f or t i t ude ami d di f f i cul t i es, pr i va-

t i ons, and danger s, dur i ng a per i od of many

year s, whi l e t r aver si ng an ext ensi ve r egi on i n

t he i nt er i or of Af r i ca, hi t her t o unexpl or ed by

Eur opeans, and of appr eci at i on of t he i mpor -

t ance of hi s ser vi ces, ext endi ng t o t he f ost er -

i ng of commer ce, t he advancement of ci vi l i za-

t i on, and t he di f f usi on of Chr i st i ani t y among

heat hen nat i ons.

1857. Fr eedom of ci t y of Edi nbur gh, of Dundee, and

many ot her t owns.

1857. Cor r espondi ng Member of Amer i can Geogr aphi -

cal and St at i st i cal Soci et y, New Yor k.

1857. Cor r espondi ng Member of Royal Geogr aphi cal

Soci et y of Londoa

312 THE LI FE OF DAVI D LI VI NGSTONE.

1857. Cor r espondi ng Member of Geogr aphi cal Soci et y

of Par i s.

1857. Cor r espondi ng Member of t he K. K. Geogr aphi c

' cal Soci et y of Vi enna.

1857. The Facul t y of Physi ci ans and Sur geons of

Gl asgow " el ect t hat wor t hy, emi nent , and

l ear ned Sur geon and Nat ur al i st , Davi d Li v-

i ngst one, LL. D. , t o be an Honor ar y Fel l ow. "

1857. Medal awar ded by t he Uni ver sal Soci et y f or t he

Encour agement of Ar t s and I ndust r y.

1857. Uni ver si t y of Oxf or d conf er degr ee of D. C. L.

1857. El ect ed F. R. S.

1858. Appoi nt ed Commander of Zambesi Expedi t i on

and Her Maj est y' s Consul at Tet t e, Qui l i -

mane, and Senna.

1872. Gol d Medal awar ded by I t al i an Geogr aphi cal

Soci et y.

1874. A memoi r of Li vi ngst one havi ng been r ead by

t he Secr et ar y at a meet i ng of t he Russi an

Geogr aphi cal Soci et y, cor di al l y r ecogni zi ng

hi s mer i t , t he whol e assembl y — a ver y l ar ge

one — by r i si ng, pai d a l ast t r i but e of r espect

t o hi s memor y. — Lancet , 7t h Mar ch, 1874.

Page 182 of 182